The Cossade and Charbonnière moors

A lovely walk around the ponds in the Landes de la Cossade and de la Charbonnière. This site was mined for its clay of high mineralogical purity in the last century. After the site was abandoned, the four cavities, 30 to 50 metres deep, filled with water. This walk offers peace and a change of scenery. Some of the lakes are magnificent! It’s even more beautiful in the sunshine.

(!) Swimming strictly prohibited

Details

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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 5.71 mi
  • ◔
    Average duration: 2h 55 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Moderate

  • ⚐
    Back to start: Yes
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 322 ft
  • ↘
    Descent: - 302 ft

  • ▲
    Highest point: 489 ft
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 282 ft

Photos

Description of the walk

(S/E) Take the road south-east with care. At the first junction, turn left onto the gently sloping road leading towards Chez Brilhouet. Pass through the hamlet and go under a power line. At the T-junction, turn left and pass the hamlet of La Maison Seule.

(1) At the end of the road, turn left (north). When you reach the cemetery, make a U-turn to the right to view the cemetery gate. Continue north along the road.

(2) Turn right towards Chez Got. A first pond is visible on the left beyond the houses. The road becomes a track; continue straight on, slightly uphill, through a wooded area. At a Fork in the road, take the track on the right which leads out of the woods and crosses a vineyard.

(3) At the crossroads, turn right and follow the track between the vineyard on the right and a wood on the left. Turn right with the track and continue along the vineyard. At a sign marking a protected area, go through the electric fence (designed to protect the vineyard from wild animals) and join a track leading down to the left to the edge of a pond (a former quarry).

Head back up to just past the electric fence and take the path on the right that runs alongside the fence, returning almost to the corner of the vineyard plot. As you leave the woodland, turn right and, at the corner of the nearby woodland, take the path that enters the woodland on the right.

The path goes round the pond, then approaches a second pond on the left. Continue along the path, which winds and seems to head back towards the first pond before making a hairpin bend and reaching a third. The path runs to the east of this one. Pass a path on the left and reach a road below. Follow the road to the right for about thirty metres.

(4) Turn left onto a gently sloping path through the woods towards a small intermittent stream. Cross it (small wooden footbridge) and head back up towards the D131 road. Follow this road to the right for about thirty metres.

(5) Turn left onto an uphill path through the woods. Further on, you’ll look out over another pond. Follow the path to a T-junction.

(6) Turn right and follow a path not shown on the IGN map. At the end, take a well-marked path on the left. Shortly afterwards, there is a viewing point with information boards explaining the transformation of the former quarries into a protected area. Continue along the path to the D2 road at a place called Braguilan. Throughout this area, a good landmark is a telecoms mast on the left.

(7) Follow the D2 to the left for about 400 metres (take care). Turn right onto a path heading south-south-west. At the end, take a path to the right (west). Enter the White Cross Woods. Further on, in a clearing, walk alongside a vineyard on your right before entering the woods again. A little further on, there is a pond in the woods below on the left.

At the next junction, veer right. Shortly afterwards, walk briefly alongside a pond on your right, then another as you reach the hamlet of Chez Auban.

(8) At the crossroads, take the first turn left then right to continue north. Take the first path on the left at the last houses. The path passes under a high-voltage power line just after the woods. You’ll come out onto a road; follow it to the right. Once on the D2, follow this road with care. After about ten metres, take a path on the right and walk alongside a small pond on your right.

(9) At the first junction, turn left. Walk alongside the vineyards on your right. On the left, in the clearing, there is a small pond surrounded by trees. Continue straight on until the path becomes a small road near the tennis courts. At the crossroads, turn left towards the town hall and the school. Return to the car park on the left (S/E).

Waypoints

  1. S/E : mi 0 - alt. 325 ft - Car park opposite the town hall
  2. 1 : mi 0.5 - alt. 289 ft - Crossroads
  3. 2 : mi 0.92 - alt. 335 ft - Crossroads near Chez Got
  4. 3 : mi 1.47 - alt. 397 ft - Crossroads
  5. 4 : mi 2.37 - alt. 325 ft - Road-path junction
  6. 5 : mi 2.62 - alt. 348 ft - D131 road - path
  7. 6 : mi 2.91 - alt. 427 ft - T-junction
  8. 7 : mi 3.5 - alt. 479 ft - Bagilan
  9. 8 : mi 4.75 - alt. 322 ft - Chez Auban
  10. 9 : mi 5.39 - alt. 344 ft - T-junction
  11. S/E : mi 5.71 - alt. 325 ft - Car park opposite the town hall

Notes

The car park is located opposite the town hall. Alternatively, you can park behind the town hall (dead-end).

This hike over varied terrain requires suitable footwear.

This hike is only partially signposted (signs are missing or damaged on certain sections). Consequently, it is advisable to follow the directions in the description and on the map, whilst paying close attention to the landscape. The waypoints (with their GPS coordinates and distance from the starting point) serve as aids for hikers exploring the route for the first time.

Hike completed by the author on 10 December 2019.

Worth a visit

Touverac
The history of the Touvérac site
In the last century, the site was mined for its clay of high mineralogical purity. It was here that quarries were dug to extract kaolin, a white, crumbly clay used mainly in the porcelain and ceramics industries. This material is also used in paint as a pigment, as well as in medicine, cosmetics and even in paper manufacturing.
After they were abandoned, the four deep cavities, ranging from 30 to 50 metres in depth, filled with rainwater, giving rise to ponds. Each pond has its own colour, ranging from water green to turquoise blue, via emerald green… Enough to offer a beautiful spectrum for a painter’s palette. These striking colours are due to the presence of silica and the fact that the soil is nutrient-poor. Life has therefore not developed there and the waters have remained clear.
Since 1996, the Touvérac site has been protected and managed by the Regional Conservatory of Natural Areas (CREN). It is home to a wide variety of remarkable flora and fauna. I don’t know if the site is also home to Pokémon, but for geocaching enthusiasts, it contains a ‘geocache’.
These well-signposted nature trails are suitable for children. A pair of trainers is all you need, and it’s recommended to bring binoculars to observe the wildlife. On the agenda: migratory birds (nightjars), warblers, ducks, pond turtles, frogs, colourful butterflies and dragonflies…
As you walk along the trails, you pass through woodland (with log steps and a small bridge), a fragrant pine forest bordered by gorse and heather, avenues of reeds and white ravines.
.../...
Finally, and this is certainly the most frustrating aspect of this walk, you’re not allowed to swim in the ponds. And when you’re doing this hike in temperatures of over 30 degrees, as I did, you just want to take a dip to cool off in those crystal-clear waters. Police checks are frequent, and the fine is steep, though this doesn’t stop a few rebellious tourists from flouting the ban.
In conclusion, the Touvérac quarries are well worth a visit for their unique character and the beauty of the surroundings. It might be best to go in spring or autumn, when the colours of the vegetation are even more beautiful and you’re not tempted to go for a swim.

Places and monuments
Saint-Martin Church
The parish church of Saint-Martin dates from the 11th century. It was re-vaulted in the 15th century and restored in the 19th century. The current bell tower dates from this period. Some maintenance work was carried out in 1969.

Saint-Bernard Castle
Saint-Bernard Castle, to the south of the village. This impressive castle dates from the 19th century. It is situated on a 50-hectare estate. Private property.
Source: the town’s official website

Reviews and comments

4.1 / 5
Based on 5 reviews

Reliability of the description
3.8 / 5
Ease of following the route
3.6 / 5
Route interest
4.8 / 5
philouis
philouis

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : May 06, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

A pleasant walk, but not easy to follow once you reach the quarries.

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pgetrochon
pgetrochon

Hello Kean and Lairault,

Although there is no specific indication on the map that the path is private, in order to avoid further objections from the person living next door, I have just modified the route and its description by adding around 400 metres along the road (something I always try to minimise when planning my routes).
In this area, private paths are usually marked by signs. Not here. Sometimes people don’t want hikers passing too close to their property...
Hoping that peace and quiet will now return.
Kind regards

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kehan
kehan

Overall rating : 3.7 / 5

Date of your route : Mar 20, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★☆☆ Average
Ease of following the route : ★★★☆☆ Average
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A lovely walk, with the ponds as the main attraction, of course! Please note, as mentioned by “Lairault”, that from point 7 we too had to turn left onto the D2 road for 350 metres to join the dirt track on the right, just outside the village, which leads through the woods of the White Cross.The owner of the famous fence has already raised the alarm on numerous occasions, and the route really ought to be altered so that this good man can be left in peace! We’d like to take this opportunity to thank him for his kindness and willingness to show us the right way.

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lairault
lairault

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 21, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★☆☆ Average
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A lovely walk; this route would benefit from better signposting. The first part is very interesting; from point 7, we had to turn left onto the D2 road for 350 metres to reach the white path that runs through the White Cross Woods.
Thank you for this lovely route

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pgetrochon
pgetrochon

Thank you for your message.
I share your concerns regarding the litter and people swimming, even though the area is clearly marked as a protected site. As mentioned in the description, swimmers risk being fined... but of course the local police have other priorities. Let’s hope these remain isolated incidents, otherwise access to the site will no longer be permitted.
After the point (7), the lack of a path is likely due to lockdown, which has significantly reduced the number of walkers, and as it is not a proper path but a track through heathland... nature has quickly reclaimed the area.
After the point (8), it is a farm track that leads to a grassy area. During the reconnaissance, there were very clear tractor tracks, which made it easy to follow. Lockdown must have worked against the hikers here too. The small road to be joined is visible from the point where the farm track becomes a grassy path.
The area around the lakes, with their such striking colours, is, in my opinion, well worth keeping this route, which is based on an ‘official’ route found online and tested in the field.
Happy hiking.

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Christopher-McCandless
Christopher-McCandless
• Edited:

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Jun 22, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★☆☆ Average
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A very interesting walk, with plenty to see.
Some parts of the route really feel like a world away; it feels a long way from the Charente... Then you pass vast stretches of vineyards once again. The bodies of water are all different and sometimes have incredible colours. Despite the fact that the site is a protected area, bottles, packaging and the remains of campfires litter the shores of the lakes (people were swimming with their dogs in these turquoise waters). Entire sections of the route no longer exist – at point 7, you have to go off-road to the White Cross Road, and the path starting at point 8 is a dead end – here too, you’ll have to go off-track using the app on your phone 😉). But it’s a lovely walk that’s well worth the trip. Thank you for all these suggestions...

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Cyth
Cyth

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Jun 07, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A lovely, easy walk

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