The Loire Gorges from Onzillon

This route, which takes you up the Loire Gorges for several kilometres, follows a few unmarked paths in a wild and unspoilt environment. Several descents to the banks of the Loire are possible (swimming, fishing) and are indicated in the description. The return via the plateau offers beautiful views.

Details

7465172
Creation:
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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 13.60 km
  • ◔
    Average duration: 4h 55 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Moderate

  • ⚐
    Back to start: Yes
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 374 m
  • ↘
    Descent: - 378 m

  • ▲
    Highest point: 956 m
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 714 m

Photos

Description of the walk

Park at the bottom of the hamlet of Onzillon (small square), at the signpost on the left indicating Vazeilles and Le Mazel.
You will often follow marked trails, which are mentioned throughout the text.

(S/E) Follow the red and white markings of the GR®3 and this road towards Vazeilles, which turns into a track. It will take you to Le Mazel with some paved sections and others in the form of tracks. After crossing a bridge, climb up to the hamlet of Vazeilles.

(1) At the entrance to the hamlet, leave the GR®3 trail climbing to the left and follow the road that crosses Vazeilles and climbs, overlooking the Loire. The track descends, passes Sauron farm and arrives at Mazel. Cross the hamlet, pass a fountain and follow the beautiful path lined with hedges and meadows. You will arrive at a three-way junction with a mountain bike sign indicating that you should not take the right-hand branch.

(2) Leave the main path and take the left fork (follow the mountain bike signs) along a trail and join a track coming from the right. If the path is overgrown, as a hiker pointed out to me, continue straight ahead for about 100 metres and you will come to a track that climbs up to the left.

(3) At the track-path junction, continue along the track until you reach a three-way junction where you will find yellow markings on both branches.

(4) Take the right-hand branch, which begins a descent and leads to a shaded promontory offering views of the Loire. Shortly afterwards, leave the contour path with the markings and descend towards the Loire near a stone hut (Source de Bonnefont).

(5) From the hut, follow the markings upstream along the Loire, then leave the riverbank to climb up to Mas de Bonnefont. Pass the farmhouse and begin the ascent, following the markings. Continue for about 150 metres until you find a well-marked path on the right. Be careful to find this path and do not go more than 150 m past the farmhouse.

(6) Leave the marked paved slanting street and take this path on the right, which climbs gently into the forest before emerging in the middle of the broom. The path becomes steep and stony; it begins a rapid but steep climb and rejoins the forest. Continue climbing fairly steeply to reach a contour path.

(7) At this point, you will join the GR®3, which you take on the right. This will take you to the hamlet of La Pénide, which overlooks the Loire. Cross the hamlet and take the access road that descends. The road climbs again at a right-hand bend.

(8) Leave the GR® and the road and take a beautiful path on the left through the meadows. The path leads to a road near the hamlet of Les Salles. Continue along the road, which veers slightly to the right, to cross the hamlet. Shortly after meeting a road that climbs up from the left, take a path on the right after a farm.

(9) Take this path (yellow markings), which descends into a small valley before climbing back up and rejoining a road.

(10) Do not take the road on the right, as indicated by the markings, but cross it and climb the short grassy slope opposite, which immediately turns to the right. Continue along this grassy path, which eventually joins the road – and the markings – shortly before a junction with a track on the left. Take this flat track, still following the yellow markings, which leads to a fork at the edge of a wood.
Note from a hiker in summer 2025: the path may be overgrown, in which case follow the markings on the road.

(11) Leave the left fork that goes into a meadow and descend into the woods with the right fork, joining a small road. Follow this road to the left and leave it shortly afterwards on the right, following the markings. You will come to a crossroads between the path and the road.

(12) Leave the markings, turn left to cross the road and take a path that descends and quickly becomes quite rough. You will reach a crossroads at the entrance to the hamlet of Onzillon. Do not enter the hamlet, but descend along the road on the right, which passes a house on the right before reaching a path entrance on the left.

(13) Follow this path downhill and join another path marked in yellow. Once you have crossed the small stream, you will find yourself at a fork in the road with two yellow-marked paths. Leave the path opposite, which goes back up to Onzillon, and follow the path on the right, which descends alongside meadows. It leads to a wide track above the abandoned village of La Varenne.

(14) Take this track, which climbs to the left and offers final views of the Loire before reaching Onzillon (S/E).

Waypoints

  1. S/E : km 0 - alt. 777 m - Onzillon
  2. 1 : km 1.47 - alt. 772 m - Entrance to Vazeilles
  3. 2 : km 3.48 - alt. 766 m - Three-way junction
  4. 3 : km 3.59 - alt. 769 m - Intersection of path and track
  5. 4 : km 4.17 - alt. 781 m - Three-way junction, yellow markings - La Loire
  6. 5 : km 4.82 - alt. 729 m - Bonnefont spring
  7. 6 : km 5.38 - alt. 780 m - End of yellow markings
  8. 7 : km 5.84 - alt. 904 m - GR°°®°° junction
  9. 8 : km 6.55 - alt. 945 m - End of °°GR®°°
  10. 9 : km 8.24 - alt. 908 m - Track
  11. 10 : km 9.05 - alt. 896 m - Road
  12. 11 : km 10.24 - alt. 918 m - Three-way junction
  13. 12 : km 11.3 - alt. 830 m - Crossroads
  14. 13 : km 12.13 - alt. 767 m - Leave the road, take the path on the left
  15. 14 : km 12.86 - alt. 714 m - Track
  16. S/E : km 13.6 - alt. 777 m - Onzillon

Notes

Duration observed: 3 hours 45 minutes including stops
Good shoes recommended (rocky and muddy sections).

Worth a visit

At the end of the climb after Vazeilles, a good path descends to the right: access to the Loire is possible.

Halfway between Vazeilles and (2), there is the same possibility with a path that winds its way down to the meadows bordering the Loire.

In (2), the right-hand branch descends towards the Loire.

In (5), the hut shelters the Bonnefont spring, known since Roman times, which is both gaseous and ferruginous (see the numerous traces of rust on the stones). See the history of this spring and the farmhouse here.

Just before climbing up to the Mas de Bonnefont, you can continue along the Loire for a few dozen metres to find a superb beach at the foot of a cliff: very pleasant swimming!

You can then descend (13) to the abandoned hamlet of La Varenne.

 Always be cautious and plan ahead when you're outdoors. Visorando and the author of this route cannot be held responsible for any accidents occurring on this route.

The GR® and PR® markings are the intellectual property of the Fédération Française de Randonnée Pédestre.

Reviews and comments

4.4 / 5
Based on 12 reviews

Reliability of the description
4.5 / 5
Ease of following the route
4.3 / 5
Route interest
4.5 / 5
laurent.carraro
laurent.carraro

Thanks for the heads up, and the comment on point 10. The path must have been overgrown since I last used it in 2021. I'll report it.

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User 23877422

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 18, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A very beautiful and varied hike, with paths, trails and few paved roads. Just one small downside: at point 10, I recommend following the paved road as suggested by the signposts. We followed the suggested route, which follows the road via a footpath, but this was overgrown with brambles and blackthorn... we ended up with scratches on our legs.

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User 3713193

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 01, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

The p

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laurent.carraro
laurent.carraro
• Edited:

Hello,
and thank you for the review.
You made a mistake at the end of 5.
I will insist on not exceeding 150 metres after Mas de Bonnefont in 5.

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AnneQ
AnneQ

Overall rating : 3.7 / 5

Date of your route : Jun 01, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★☆☆ Average
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

It's a very pretty route in the section that overlooks or runs alongside the Loire. It must be quite magical in summer when you can swim. No particular difficulties. However, at point 6 or 7, I must have made a mistake because I couldn't find the rest of the route to point 8. I ended up directly in Les Salles, which was a shame as it meant cutting short the itinerary. The explanations could be more precise at this point.

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maxioliv
maxioliv

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Oct 30, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

Very enjoyable hike, beautiful view of the Loire Gorges...

To be repeated

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pachyderme
pachyderme

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Sep 02, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

We did this hike in reverse and it's much better.

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Denmar68
Denmar68

Overall rating : 3.3 / 5

Date of your route : Jun 20, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★☆☆☆ Disappointing
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

This hike could have been very beautiful if the paths had been maintained. For half of the route, we used our walking sticks to protect ourselves from brambles and nettles, especially on the last part where they were over a metre high. If it hadn't been for the GPS, it would have been impossible to find the path.

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Jean-Paul KERENFORT
Jean-Paul KERENFORT

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Jun 02, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A very beautiful hike that comes highly recommended. A group of hikers from Alboussière staying in Haute-Loire.
Thank you for creating this route.

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jmichel.laurent
jmichel.laurent

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Feb 20, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A very beautiful hike with magnificent views of the Loire Gorges.

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Raoul d' autuche
Raoul d' autuche

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 15, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

First part along the Loire River with swimming opportunities; second part less interesting.

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CR69600
CR69600

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Mar 26, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A lovely hike that we enjoyed in the spring sunshine. The directions and route were very reliable, with no difficulties to report.
Suggestion to make it even more attractive: start from the hamlet of Les Salles, which allows you to "swallow" the plateau section first and finish with the magnificent Loire gorges and the Bonnefont spring. This can be particularly interesting when you need to motivate grumpy walkers...
Question for those in the know: are motorbikes allowed on the route? We had to pull over to let a dozen of them pass, with the added bonus of air and noise pollution as they struggled to climb the steep path from the river to the plateau. And if they are not allowed, how can the offence be reported?

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picotel
picotel

That's what we had planned to do, a little extension! This year, the vegetation is going wild, the problem is everywhere!

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laurent.carraro
laurent.carraro

OK.
I'll mark the spot, because it's easy to continue straight ahead and then climb back up.

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picotel
picotel

at point 2!

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