The tour of the Cime des Verrairiers via the Refuge des Merveilles

This beautiful circular route takes you from valley to valley, each time revealing a new landscape, from a wild valley to the lakes around the Refuge des Merveilles in a stunning rocky setting.

Details

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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 16.38 km
  • ◔
    Average duration: 8h 25 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Difficult

  • ⚐
    Back to start: Yes
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 1,321 m
  • ↘
    Descent: - 1,329 m

  • ▲
    Highest point: 2,510 m
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 1,566 m

Photos

Description of the walk

The start is after Belvédère, heading towards Vallée de la Gordolasque. Pass the Saint-Grat neighbourhood and park just after the right-hand bend above the Relais des Merveilles on the side of the road.

(S/E) Take the path (Vacherie de Saint-Grat, Belvédère) towards Torrent de la Gordolasque, cross the bridge and turn right onto the path until you reach a signpost indicating Parc du Mercantour.

(1) Take the less marked path on the left that winds its way up through the forest. At the plateau, the path turns left and continues slightly uphill to a clearing with a small stream.

(2) Cross the stream and immediately turn right to follow the stream uphill to the left (Vallon de la Mairis). After the first cliff, the forest disappears. Continue along the less marked path that climbs to the left through the grass to the second cliff.

(3) This is where the Vallon des Verrairiers begins and the path is no longer marked, with only a few cairns to guide you. Continue climbing up the left side of the small stream through the stones and rocks. After passing a small drop, continue along the bottom of the valley for a few dozen metres, then climb up the right side of the hill, avoiding the scree. At the end of the hill, descend back into the valley.

(4) Cross the scree in large rocks (about 50 metres) to reach the better marked path opposite, in a less rocky section, and head right to Pas du Trem a little higher up.

(5) Descend towards Lac du Diable and join theGR®52.

(6) Make a short detour to Pas du Diable on the right.

(7) Return to Lac du Diable.

(6) Take the descent towards the Refuge des Merveilles. The well-marked trail descends gently, passing by Lac de la Muta.

(8) Continue along Lac Fourca and reach Refuge des Merveilles.

(9) Continue on the left, uphill. You will reach a crossroads near Lac Mouton.

(10) Leave the start of the Vallée des Merveilles trail on your right and continue left towards Pas de l'Arpette and Vallée de la Gordolasque on a path that climbs gradually and ends with a steeper slope at the start of Pas de l'Arpette.

(11) Continue along the path towards Pont du Countet until you reach it via the bottom of Vallon d'Empuonrame. Steep at first, the slope becomes gentler until the path passes under an EDF penstock, then becomes a little steeper again.

(12) At Pont du Countet, continue along the tarmac road until the second hairpin bend and take the path on the left which leads to the hydroelectric plant and the lake. Cross the stream just upstream of the lake and continue along a path descending to the left of it to rejoin the starting path and then the road (S/E).

Waypoints

  1. S/E : km 0 - alt. 1,584 m - Turn right above the Relais des Merveilles towards - Gordolasque
  2. 1 : km 0.22 - alt. 1,584 m - Fork in the road, left
  3. 2 : km 1.36 - alt. 1,867 m - Cross the small stream and turn right
  4. 3 : km 2.56 - alt. 2,157 m - Start of the Vallon des Verrairiers
  5. 4 : km 3.79 - alt. 2,366 m - Scree in large rocks
  6. 5 : km 4.38 - alt. 2,460 m - Pas du Trem
  7. 6 : km 4.81 - alt. 2,410 m - Lacs du Diable
  8. 7 : km 5 - alt. 2,435 m - Pas du Diable
  9. 8 : km 6.32 - alt. 2,266 m - Lac de la Muta
  10. 9 : km 7.75 - alt. 2,132 m - Refuge des Merveilles
  11. 10 : km 8.43 - alt. 2,167 m - Fork in the road, head towards the Pas de l'Arpette
  12. 11 : km 10.38 - alt. 2,506 m - Pas de l'Arpette
  13. 12 : km 14.05 - alt. 1,684 m - Pont du Countet
  14. S/E : km 16.38 - alt. 1,584 m - Turn right above the Relais des Merveilles

Notes

Two-thirds of the way along the route is the Refuge de la Vallée des Merveilles.

This route passes through a protected area, which may be subject to special regulations:

Worth a visit

The route can be completed over two days, allowing you to visit the Vallée des Merveilles site and stay overnight at the refuge (remember to book)
Guided tours are organised from the refuge.

Always be cautious and plan ahead when you're outdoors. Visorando and the author of this route cannot be held responsible for any accidents occurring on this route.

The GR® and PR® markings are the intellectual property of the Fédération Française de Randonnée Pédestre.

Reviews and comments

4.4 / 5
Based on 16 reviews

Reliability of the description
4.3 / 5
Ease of following the route
4.3 / 5
Route interest
4.8 / 5
JPhi1972
JPhi1972

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 05, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Hello,
A truly superb hike, which I did on 4 August 2025. The only downside is finding your way up to the Pas du Trem. The section through the scree below is quite adventurous and difficult to find, but with GPS tracking it's possible, as long as you're very careful, of course.
We made the hike even better by climbing to the summit of the Diable, which adds 200 metres of elevation gain, but the view is very nice.
All the best to everyone

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RQLP
RQLP

Hello,
We had planned to do the first part up to the Cime du Diable and back, but unfortunately we couldn't find our way through the Verrairiers scree because there are bits of trail going in all directions and cairns everywhere. You also have to be very careful because the stream runs under the rocks and there are lots of hidden holes here and there under the vegetation.
As time passed, we finally decided to turn back. It was a shame because the hike had been magnificent up to that point, very wild with chamois and marmots that weren't shy, and a beautiful waterfall on the right as we climbed.

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Fofie83500
Fofie83500

Overall rating : 3.7 / 5

Date of your route : Nov 16, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★☆☆ Average
Ease of following the route : ★★★☆☆ Average
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A genuinely challenging hike
Departure at 8:15 a.m
The estimated time is accurate unless you get lost, and the trail is not very well marked in several places:
After the first pass, we lost the trail in the clearing and had to cross the scree (tiring and energy-sapping)
It took us 6 hours to reach the Merveilles refuge (closed at this time of year) and we couldn't stay too long
We set off again after a 20-minute break, and the pass took a very long time to reach
Full of confidence, we arrived at 4 p.m
Descent on the trail (between points 10 and 12), which was well marked at the beginning but then disappeared completely
Once again, we got lost and descended using the rope running alongside the pipeline (again, very exciting)
After a few adventures, we found the trail again and finished with our headlamps on, returning to the starting point at 6:30 p.m

We have no regrets and were able to see ibex and chamois, but be warned, the hike is still difficult!!!

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Franck D’Haveloose
Franck D’Haveloose

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 14, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Wonderful and challenging! It's a truly superb hike with varied landscapes.
We set off at around 8am and arrived at the Merveilles refuge at 1pm, so we were able to eat there without having to carry a picnic... The blueberry tart was fabulous 👌!
A few difficulties finding the right path in the scree on the climb because there are cairns everywhere!
The descent via the Pas de l'Arpette was long and difficult due to fatigue.
We saw groups of chamois, which were not very shy, and horses, but no marmots 😢!

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La Sand
La Sand

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 08, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

I opted for a variation: I followed the route indicated to Pas du Trem. From there, I took a short detour to the nearby Cime du Diable and its magnificent panorama, which would be a shame to miss (but it adds 200 metres of elevation gain). Then I returned to Pas du Trem and descended as indicated on the route to the Merveilles refuge, passing by all the splendid lakes. From there, I preferred to return directly via the same route as on the way up. I know the Pas de l'Arpette, but that means looking for the car about 2km further down the road (from Pont du Countet you have to descend to St Grat) and I was short of time.
At points 3 and 4 in the hike description, if you follow the instructions and cairns carefully, it's fine. Otherwise, you'll struggle a bit in the large scree blocks.
A superb hike which, even in the middle of August, remains uncrowded in the Verrairiers area. The same cannot be said once you cross over to the other side of the Pas du Trem, as you are then in the very popular Vallée des Merveilles.

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Legall Yves
Legall Yves

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Nov 09, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

Hello, do you know the origin of the word Verrairiers? Thank you, my research has been unsuccessful.

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Barbenoire
Barbenoire

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Nov 08, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

Hello,

The three of us did this hike and spent the night at the refuge.
a forecast of -10°C brought us back down to earth
Do not expect to have any mobile phone reception; you will be cut off from the world for 90% of the hike.

Unfortunately, we encountered difficulties on the "ébouli" scree slope. It had snowed for two days and we had trouble seeing the holes clearly. Fortunately, there were a few cairns to help us find our way. Don't get caught out – look carefully at each cairn before stepping on the rocks. We lost a lot of time.

The hike is superb but challenging, and its description as "difficult" seems consistent with a 15kg load
The second part is easier, but the ice on the shaded slopes was dangerous for the descent, especially without crampons...
The description is good, you just need to keep your eyes open.

A beautiful hike! A real thrill. Make sure you're properly equipped if it snows!

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arnoforca
arnoforca

Hello,
after the clearing, you mentioned a first ledge (a term I was unfamiliar with). We arrive at another plain, then another ledge (this one corresponds to a waterfall of about 50 metres) before arriving at a plateau overlooking a cirque with scree...

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Denis26
Denis26 ★

Arnoforca
I'm really sorry, but I can't see which waterfall you're talking about..
I don't remember seeing it on the way.
Please could you provide more details?

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arnoforca
arnoforca

Overall rating : 3 / 5

Date of your route : Sep 28, 2019
Reliability of the description : ★☆☆☆☆ Very disappointing
Ease of following the route : ★★★☆☆ Average
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

hello,

a very beautiful hike, difficult at first but very pretty. We saw lots of chamois... but then DISASTER STRUCK
the signposting was really inadequate no real markings. We turned left before the waterfall and had to cross a lot of scree before turning back because the path was bad. We returned to the top of the waterfall, but it was still very difficult to find the right path. After more than five hours of walking and seeing the endless Cirque de la Verrairies, we had to turn back and never made it to the refuges. We were very disappointed.
i have been using your site for a few hikes now, and the only real solution is to download the map and navigate using the map on your mobile phone because there is a serious lack of explanations...!!!! Not to mention the danger, because we completely trusted the description and the time and distance indicated... We arrived at the Relais des Merveilles almost at night.

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bernardino
bernardino ★

Hello, and thank you for your message and especially for this comment:

It's a good parish-specific to Brittany hike, but be aware that the Cime des Verrairiers is still covered in snow in June this year, which easily added an hour to our crossing time.

Yes, there is snow everywhere at around 2,500 metres at the moment, and it might be wise to avoid venturing there. Not only does the white carpet slow walkers down, but it can also be very tricky if you slip.
Perhaps wait a few days and with the heatwave forecast, the snow will disappear quickly.
On the downside of this heatwave, afternoons will be very difficult to negotiate, so make sure you take plenty of water with you.

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Legall Yves
Legall Yves

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Jun 22, 2019
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good

Hello, Despite my research, I cannot find the meaning of "Verrairiers". If I cannot find it, I will ask an elder from Belvédère.

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visorando666
visorando666

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Jun 19, 2019
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

A good parish-specific to Brittany hike, but be aware that the Cime des Verrairiers was still covered in snow in June this year, which easily added an extra hour to the crossing.
But the scenery and the animals are the

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Legall Yves
Legall Yves

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Jun 21, 2018
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

Who knows the meaning of "verrairriers"?

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ploviso
ploviso

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 21, 2017
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

The hike is very beautiful and interesting. As suggested, the initial passage through the Pas du Trem allows you to face the "spectacle" and it is magnificent. We even saw a rock partridge three or four metres away with its three chicks. After the Arpette, the return journey must be made by road between the Countet bridge and the start of the hike.
As for the Pas du Trem, it remains formidable with the stages via La Maïris and Les Verrairiers, but if anyone knows how to completely bypass the rocky section, please let us know...

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