The telegraph and the oppidum of La Courtine above Ollioules

Climb above Ollioules and see the witnesses to the country's history: a Celtic-Ligurian oppidum, a medieval castle, a Chappe telegraph, cadastral markers and a water tower. This is what I offer you over a few kilometres on this peaceful walk, which does have a fairly steep incline.

Details

5662550
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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 5.87 mi
  • ◔
    Average duration: 3h 55 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Moderate

  • ⚐
    Back to start: Yes
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 1,394 ft
  • ↘
    Descent: - 1,385 ft

  • ▲
    Highest point: 1,411 ft
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 157 ft
  • ⚐ Country: France
  • ⚐ City: Ollioules (83190)
  • ⚑
    Start/End: N 43.142512° / E 5.846348°
  • ❏
    IGN map(s): Ref. 3346OT
  • Hour-by-hour weather

Photos

Description of the walk

There are large car parks in Ollioules, at Place du 8 Mai 1945 and Place Honoré Pichaud, between Rue Barthélémy Dagnan and the Reppe.

(S/E) We chose to park along Avenue Barthélémy Dagnan, not far from the bridge over the Reppe. Walk 200 metres along the street towards the town centre.

(1) Turn left onto the footbridge where the Chemin de la Bonnefont crosses the Reppe. Continue along the narrow lane which leads onto Route des Gorges. Cross at the pedestrian crossing and you’ll find the start ofthe GR®® 51 on Chemin de l’Oratoire opposite. After passing the Bonnefont spring pumping station, Chemin de l’Oratoire climbs to the left up to a chapel.

(2) Walk past the façade of the ruined chapel and continue along the Chemin de l’Oratoire, which climbs to the right.
At the last houses (below on the left), the tarmac road ends and gives way to a stony path that climbs beneath the Aleppo pines.

(3) On reaching the highest point of this section of the path, you’ll find the path on the right leading up to the oppidum of La Courtine. Leave this for now and continue towards the clearing where the Provence Canal pipeline passes through. Cross this clearing and continue along theGR®® opposite (marked in red and white) to reach the Col de la Barre de Taillan.

(4) A slightly open area, equipped with a picnic table, where four paths converge: the one on the left descends towards the Ollioules Gorges, the one on the right climbs to the telegraph station, and opposite, theGR®® 51 continues.
Take the path on the right leading up to the telegraph station. It climbs straight ahead at first, and after a bend to the left, reaches the remains of the Chappe Telegraph.

(5) After visiting the telegraph station – which is well worth a stop – take the path leading upwards through the rocks and follow either the red and white markings or the cairns along the ridge.

(6) After the 432-metre mark, the path descends slightly to a small pass where it meets theGR®® 51 coming up from the left. There is an elongated cadastral marker here. Turn left onto the path leading downwards, with the old village of Évenos in sight.

(7) At the next junction, turn left to follow theGR®®, leaving the path to the right that heads towards Le Broussan. TheGR®® initially runs along a ridge with views of Vieil Évenos, then descends with views of Ollioules, makes a double hairpin bend before reaching the crossroads you passed on the way there.

(4) Start along the path leading down towards the gorges; you’ll soon come to the Grotte du Patrimoine, a former shepherds’ shelter. After visiting the cave, turn back.

(4) Follow the path back in the opposite direction towards the opening in the Canal de Provence, then on to La Courtine.

(3) This time, take the small path on your left opposite, which climbs towards the oppidum; it is covered in brown clay and paved with basalt blocks. Soon, after about a hundred metres through the maquis, you’ll reach an open area, on a plateau dotted with basalt blocks and low walls made of the same rock. Follow the edge of the plateau more or less.

You’ll soon come to a ruined building surrounded by a wire fence, which you go round to the left, then emerge onto a track. Follow it down to the left to reach a secluded house that’s a bit run-down but certainly occupied. The track turns right. Follow it eastwards.

(8) Take the path on the right which runs alongside the track, soon moving away from it before rejoining it after a sharp bend to the left. Follow the track for a short while, running alongside a field of crops, until you reach the water towers.

Take full advantage of the magnificent view from the esplanade by the water towers, then take the Chemin de la Courtine (tarmac road) towards Ollioules.

(9) After a little over a kilometre’s descent, turn right onto the Chemin du Paradis, a scenic path that begins with a gentle descent. Initially a dirt track, the Chemin du Paradis soon becomes paved, though it remains narrow and pleasant; it first crosses the Chemin de la Poussaraque, then the Impasse des Genêts.

(10) On the left is the Impasse des Genêts, closed off by a gate fitted with a small wicket; on the right is the concrete-paved path which continues downwards. Opposite is the Chemin du Paradis, which you follow; after a double-arched gate, it descends steeply via a long flight of steps. You’ll soon reach a small rest area with a bench and quickly come to the Chemin de l’Observatoire, just before La Bonnefont.
Take the Chemin de l’Oratoire downwards, cross the Route des Gorges, then cross the bridge.

(1) You’ll come to Rue Barthélémy Dagnan and the car park on your right (S/E)

Waypoints

  1. S/E : mi 0 - alt. 177 ft - Car park on Avenue Barthélémy Dagnan
  2. 1 : mi 0.1 - alt. 171 ft - Bridge over the Reppe - Reppe (fleuve)
  3. 2 : mi 0.35 - alt. 279 ft - Notre-Dame d’Espérance Chapel
  4. 3 : mi 0.96 - alt. 814 ft - Start of the path leading to the oppidum
  5. 4 : mi 1.16 - alt. 761 ft - Picnic area at the junction - Col de la Barre de Taillan
  6. 5 : mi 1.41 - alt. 1,043 ft - Télégraphe de Chappe
  7. 6 : mi 1.99 - alt. 1,381 ft - Turn left onto the GR
  8. 7 : mi 2.13 - alt. 1,220 ft - Turn left onto the GR
  9. 8 : mi 4.07 - alt. 745 ft - Path on the right
  10. 9 : mi 5.14 - alt. 472 ft - Start of the Chemin du Paradis
  11. 10 : mi 5.5 - alt. 318 ft - Steep descent along the Chemin du Paradis
  12. S/E : mi 5.87 - alt. 177 ft - Car park on Avenue Barthélémy Dagnan

Notes

The only difficult section of this route is the ascent between the telegraph station and the 432-metre summit known as Capeu Gros, via the ‘Sentier des Bornes’ trail: you’re constantly on rock, with sections of sharp limestone pavement where you need to watch your step, and micro-lapiaz (rock eroded into separate facets separated by sharp ridges, caused by the dissolution of limestone by rainwater) on which you could injure yourself if you were to fall. The use of walking poles, combined with a good pair of hiking boots, is therefore recommended. The rest of the route is, in my opinion, a breeze (apart from the climb up the Sentier de l’Oratoire).

There are no springs or water sources in this arid landscape; so make sure you bring something to drink.

Worth a visit

For those who wish to enjoy this walk not only with their legs but also with their eyes, there is much to see, as is often the case in Provence, where both the heritage and the geology readily reveal themselves to those who care to look.

We begin by crossing a pretty medieval bridge, then pass an old-style pumping station (la Bonnefont). We then come face to face with the feudal castle, its keep and ramparts, followed by the chapel – ruined but still standing proudly – of Notre-Dame de l’Espérance (formerly the Oratorian chapel), with a very lifelike crucified Christ in front of its façade.

We then cross a (rather inconspicuous) section of the Canal de Provence, a modest example of this marvellous engineering feat which, drawing on the waters of the Verdon, irrigates the entire region through remarkable technological achievements.

Next comes the Chappe telegraph, a means of transmitting information long before the internet. Then the cadastral markers on the historic boundary between the municipalities of Ollioules and Évenos. We then spare a thought for the shepherds who, in the 18th century, converted the Grotte du Patrimoine into a refuge.

Next comes the Celto-Ligurian oppidum, which was occupied between the Bronze Age and the first century BCE.

And on this basalt plateau, we might reflect that six million years ago we were here at the bottom of a valley into which lava flows poured from the heights of Le Beausset, eventually reaching Pointe Nègre in Six-Fours; and that since then, the forces of erosion have completely transformed the landscape, turning these valley floors into hills.

Finally, before heading back down to Ollioules, you’ll have taken in the unique panoramic view of Toulon harbour from the esplanade of the immense Courtine reservoir.

Always be cautious and plan ahead when you're outdoors. Visorando and the author of this route cannot be held responsible for any accidents occurring on this route.

The GR® and PR® markings are the intellectual property of the Fédération Française de Randonnée Pédestre.

Reviews and comments

4.4 / 5
Based on 12 reviews

Reliability of the description
4.3 / 5
Ease of following the route
4.3 / 5
Route interest
4.6 / 5
guiguill
guiguill

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Feb 24, 2026
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

The circular loop to the telegraph is really very pretty.

FYI: you can get close to the starting point by bus from Toulon (for example, from the Bonnefont stop, lines 11B, 12, 120).

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Sartillais
Sartillais

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : May 12, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Hello. A very beautiful hike starting from Ollioules. However, the description that says it's easy after a climb starting from Ollioulles... well... this climb was successful for 68-year-old hikers, but it's still quite challenging, at least in our opinion. The view from the top of both Toulon harbour and Six-Fours "bay" is extraordinary.

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jeromej
jeromej

Overall rating : 3.7 / 5

Date of your route : Sep 09, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★☆☆ Average
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

The first part of the hike, after a steep climb, offers beautiful views of Ollioules and Toulon harbour, among other sights. The trails are varied, with some slightly technical sections in places.
The part of the hike towards the oppidum can be tricky if you only have the PDF. The trails can sometimes be difficult to find.

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JJPLS1937
JJPLS1937

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Mar 12, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A beautiful, interesting and varied hike with stunning views and abundant vegetation and flowers near the oppidum.
The path leading up to the oppidum is a little difficult to find. In the description, mention that you have to retrace your steps for a few metres (GR markings), as the start of the path to the oppidum is barely marked at the beginning.

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gégérando
gégérando

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Oct 31, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : Yes

A very pleasant route with beautiful views of Toulon harbour, St Mandrier, and as far as the Giens peninsula.

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sergevtt
sergevtt

Hello,
After another visit to the area, I can confirm that the "Balcon du Destel" is now marked with blue markings between the picnic table and cadastral marker 1829. The GR51 markings have been removed on this north-western slope of Capeu Gros.
Best regards
Serge

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sergevtt
sergevtt

I walked along the northern trail twice this summer, in both directions, and I didn't see any GR markings. I seem to remember that there are blue markings, at least on the section that joins the GR at the Col de la Borne de Cadastre, but I need to check that. I plan to go back there soon to visit the caves at Château du Diable, and I'll take some photos. Watch this space...

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stjo
stjo

@sergevtt Don't be sorry. You must have found me grumpy!
I did see that page on the gr-infos.com website. But I wonder if the section passing by the boundary markers and the telegraph is not a variant of the GR: this section is mainly rocky and difficult to walk on, unlike the northern section, where, during my last visit in 2022, I regularly saw red and white markers. I don't remember seeing these markers on the boundary marker-telegraph section.
I hope to be able to confirm (or deny) this when I return there this winter.
But have you yourself seen any new markings?
If so, the IGN will need to update its maps.
Best regards.
stjo

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sergevtt
sergevtt

Sorry, I wanted to keep it short! The new GR 51 route is clearly marked on the website: https://www.gr-infos.com/gr51.htm. So the route follows the GR on the way there from the Col de la Barre de Taillan and goes around the north side of the mountain on the way back from the land registry marker. Yes, there is little risk of getting lost if hikers follow the route carefully.
Best regards, and thank you for this beautiful hike.
Serge

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stjo
stjo

@sergevtt: Hello! Faced with such authority, I was almost tempted to reply, "Aye, aye, Captain!", but before changing anything, I prefer to first check the official route of the GR51. Géoportail insists on showing it passing through the same place I indicated. I'll continue after I've checked; in any case, I doubt there's any risk of the poor hiker getting lost with the map in front of them.

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sergevtt
sergevtt

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Oct 09, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

The GR51 now passes through Le Télégraphe and Le Capeu Gros: the map and description need to be updated on this point.

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Lolo 76590
Lolo 76590

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Oct 09, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A very pleasant route for getting back into walking. Lovely panoramic views.

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vébé83
vébé83

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Oct 13, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

A pleasant walk that climbs gently and offers views of Old Evenos worthy of a nativity scene.

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riton83430
riton83430

That's the one! Reckless, I'll grant you, but we didn't venture that far! But of course, danger can be present.

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stjo
stjo

@riton83430, please confirm that the gallery you are referring to is the one shown in my photo.
If you went in there for a hundred metres or so, I think that's reckless, even imprudent, to say the least!

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