From Saint-Paul-de-Fenouillet, head south on the D619 towards Ansignan. Very shortly after the Pont de la Fou, turn right onto the D7 and head for Le Vivier. Pass the town hall and first turn right then left in the square to cross La Couloubrière via a narrow road bridge. Immediately afterwards, turn sharply right, heading uphill towards the church and its car park. A large car park is also available 250 metres further on (oratory).
No signposting
(S/E) From the car park, head down towards the main street and turn right to climb the very steep Rue de la Coste, heading south-east. You’ll reach an area that can be used as a car park; continue to the right for 30 metres.
(1) Carry on to the right along the main track. Pass a turn-off on the right and reach an open area at a junction of tracks.
(2) Head far to the left, due east, along a track that turns south to reach another open area.
(3) Ignore the ascending track branching off to the right towards the mast.
Carry on straight ahead on a narrower track, which is almost flat. Cross a trough where the track turns due east and begins to climb very steeply.
(4) Ignore the fork to the right. Carry on straight ahead, climbing very steeply along this stony track.
When the gradient levels off, at around 585 m, look out for the start of a path on the right. I have placed a cairn there.
(5) Head due south along this narrow, very steep and completely clear forest ridge path (12 December 2021). I have placed a few cairns along the way to confirm the correct route.
At the 789 m mark, still on the forested ridge, the path turns south-west then west and joins a track at the clear-cut area of the Col de Guza (around 755 m). Leave the track to your right. The IGN map is accurate.
Take care. Follow the flat track to the left, heading south-west, passing the first track on the right.
Yellow markings are very sparse
(6) At this junction, follow the yellow markings towards the 756-metre mark.
Continue straight ahead, due south, along a track suitable for vehicles that descends slightly. This will take you to a small road. Ignore the macadamised firebreak track that climbs to the right.
(7) Continue straight ahead, due east, descending towards the village. Beautiful scenery.
(8) At the entrance to Prats-de-Sournia (Les Prés de Sournia), with the drinking water reservoir on your left, turn right-hand side. There is an information sign about the ‘Sentier des Cabanes’ walking route.
Head up this small road, following the red and yellowGRP®® (*) markings and the sign for the orientation table. Pass a wayside shrine on your right and continue along the ascending road. When the road levels out, you’ll find a sign on the left: ‘orientation table’.
(9) Turn left, following no markings, to climb towards the three orientation tables and the Croix d’Al Calmeil (as inscribed on the stone base of the cross) at an altitude of 781 m. 360° panoramic view.
(10) Turn back after this well-deserved and rewarding break.
(9) Continue left along the small road until you reach a fork. Directional signs.
Red and white markings forthe GR®®36
(11) Continue along the road, which is becoming overgrown with grass and more pleasant to walk on. Now follow theGR®®36, which takes over from the GRP®®.
(12) Look out for a large, magnificent, semi-buried orri on the right. Pass four hairpin bends on the grassy track and follow a path through the forest to the Col de Benta Fride.
The view from there is not unobstructed. You will need to head south after the Canadian crossing or north and climb up to the higher ground as you emerge from the forest.
(13) Cross the Canadian crossing, taking care as the gate providing an alternative route is blocked (12 December 2021). Continue west, enjoying the beautiful scenery in places. You’ll reach an open area and a gate.
(14) Go through the gate on the left to admire the scenery and perhaps take a break.
Turn back, go through the gate again (making sure to close it behind you) and continue along theGR®®36, opposite, downhill, on a wide track. You’ll reach a wide, badly damaged cross-track; cross it.
Caution. Make sure you follow the red and white markings ofthe GR®®36.
(15) After a slight right then left, begin the steep descent through the forest.
After about 700 m, you’ll reach the junction with a track suitable for vehicles. Continue straight ahead. From this point onwards, the route becomes easier going. Simply follow the red and white markings ofthe GR®®36.
Reach the entrance to the village. Stay on the same side of the river and, 300 m further on, you’ll reach the church and its car park (S/E).
