Lake and Cross of Belledonne from Allemont

This superb hike starting from Allemont passes by the lake, the pass and the Croix de Belledonne before descending through the very wild Bâton valley and past the Lacs du Bœuf and du Bois.

Half of the route is completely off-trail, allowing you to observe wildlife and listen to the sounds of the mountains in complete tranquillity.

This challenging route requires crampons and an ice axe in all seasons and a night-time start in summer (see practical information).

Details

1308575
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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 20.65 km
  • ◔
    Duration according to the author: 12 hrs 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Extremely difficult

  • ⚐
    Back to start: Yes
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 2,008 m
  • ↘
    Descent: - 2,008 m

  • ▲
    Highest point: 2,893 m
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 1,136 m

Photos

Description of the walk

Park at the Tancoutier car park (shortly after a hairpin bend on the road up to Cotteyssard).

(S/E) From the car park, continue along the road for about fifty metres, keeping an eye on the left to find the start of an old forest track heading due west. This wide track is now overgrown with grass.

Take this track and follow it to its end, without ever taking the few narrower paths that join it. The track crosses the Chabotte path near some old signposts and turns into a steep, winding path heading generally north. Blue markers indicate the route sporadically from this junction.

The path veers westwards and crosses the Ferret path at a point where the latter is level. Continue climbing fairly steeply west-north-west until you reach an OBP210 signpost indicating the direction of Les Chalanches (further up the slope) and that of Allemont (from where you have come).

(1) Behind this, another rusty metal sign points towards the Grande Lance de Domène on the right. Follow this steep, winding path (north-north-west) until you reach a level path above the forest.

Turn right (east-northeast) onto this path and continue to the signpost for the Pierre Assise.

(2) If it is already daylight, a detour via the Pierre Assise offers a fine view (10 mins round trip; follow the direction indicated by the sign). In any case, continue along the level path, now heading north then east, until you reach the Cabane du Chazeau.

(3) At the hut, turn north towards Lac de Belledonne, on theGR® 549 (Red and White). The path leads back into the forest then through mountain pastures covered in blueberry bushes and rhododendrons, arriving at the easy-to-navigate rock formations of Pas du Bessey.

(4) At Pas du Bessey, take the main path heading due west, which runs along the scree and snowfields in the valley below the Barre des Écus. You will reach a signpost.

(5) Leavethe GR® and follow the signposted route to Lac de Belledonne (yellow stripes or blue dots, as you prefer – the blue ones are the old routes, generally less well-trodden and wilder) to the north-west, until you reach Lac de Belledonne.

This section is the most difficult part of the hike and is off-trail.

(6) At the mouth of the lake, cross the gabion-lined section over the Ruisseau du Molard to eventually reach a small lake situated 250m further north-north-east. From there, you can either go round the lake along its left bank, or return to point (6) to go round it along its right bank and admire the view of the western end of the lake. If there is significant snow cover (generally until the end of July), you can cross the western part of the lake over the snowfields.

Before doing so, make sure you have clearly identified the route up to the pass; see the photo and the caption for this photo.

From the western shore of the lake, climb up through the snowfields and scree to the west-southwest to go round the base of a rocky promontory and end up beneath a steep snowfield (scree in late August). Put on your crampons, stow your poles in your rucksack and take out your ice axe, even if the snowfield is thin.

If the snow has refrozen sufficiently, ascend via the first snowfield; otherwise, take the gully slightly further to the right, heading west-northwest. Once past the first narrow section between the rocks, aim to reach the middle of the couloir below the pass and ascend it either on the snowfields if they are frozen, or, failing that, through the unstable, sandy scree.

When the slope steepens, continue over the snowfield towards the pass visible higher up.

(7) At the Col de Belledonne, follow the well-marked path to the right (east) leading to the Croix de Belledonne.

(8) Return to the pass.

(7) Continue straight ahead and look out for the small lake, usually frozen over, beneath the hypothetical high-altitude landing area indicated by the IGN.

The route becomes off-trail again.

(9) From the lake, follow the gentle valley that passes another small lake, usually free of ice from mid-July onwards, to descend south-west towards Lac du Bœuf. Approach the lake by descending through rounded rocks, heading for its western shore.

(10) At the lake, take a detour – if you’re up for it – to a small lake situated 100m further north-west (approx. 20m elevation gain), then return to skirt Lac du Bœuf along its right bank to reach its outlet and descend along the right bank of the outlet, aiming for the gentler slopes on the right (west). A few rocks may require you to use your hands or even your bottom to get past, but the descent is relatively gentle.
Head for the right bank of Lac du Bois below.

(11) Once at Lac du Bois, go round it along its right bank to its spillway. Follow its outlet south-southeast along the right bank, initially through scree, until you reach a rocky narrowing less than 200m past the lake. The rocky escarpment on the right is easily crossed and leads onto a steep scree slope.

Descend this scree (south-southeast then south) until you reach slightly less steep grassy slopes. Continue south to reach the bed of the Torrent du Bâton and, after a long flat section, reach its spillway (stone structure). Cross to the left bank of the torrent if you haven’t already done so.

(12) From the weir, follow the overgrown path which winds pleasantly downwards to the south and then climbs back up to the south-southeast beneath the Roche Berchon promontory. Cables (of little use – if used, watch out for metal splinters) secure a crossing over a ravine before the tip of the promontory. Shortly after the promontory, turn eastwards and arrive at a goods lift station.

(13) Cross the facilities (a tin-roofed building and another, less unsightly one) and take the well-marked but overgrown path which heads off level, towards the north-east. After a ravine, this path winds down in very gentle switchbacks to the south-southeast before heading east again. Shortly after a sign reading “This is my land, this is my hunting ground, I shoot with live ammunition”, join the winding path that climbs back up towards the pretty Chalanches hut.

(14) Turn right (west) to descend generally south-east towards Clot des Ayes.

(15) At the Clot, a sign points towards Allemont (east). Follow this route, which is almost level, and you’ll reach a track leading to the Tancoutier car park (S/E).

Waypoints

  1. S/E : km 0 - alt. 1,161 m - Car park at a place called Le Tancoutier
  2. 1 : km 1.44 - alt. 1,515 m - Junction with the Chemin du Ferret
  3. 2 : km 3.12 - alt. 1,897 m - La Pierre Assise
  4. 3 : km 4.47 - alt. 1,784 m - Chazeau Hut
  5. 4 : km 6.18 - alt. 2,024 m - Pas du Bessey
  6. 5 : km 6.9 - alt. 2,015 m - GR549 junction and Lac de Belledonne
  7. 6 : km 7.43 - alt. 2,175 m - Lac de Belledonne
  8. 7 : km 9.81 - alt. 2,787 m - Col de Belledonne
  9. 8 : km 10.26 - alt. 2,885 m - Summit - Croix de Belledonne
  10. 9 : km 11.01 - alt. 2,763 m - Unnamed lake - IGN altisurface
  11. 10 : km 11.92 - alt. 2,604 m - North-West Bank - Lac du Bœuf
  12. 11 : km 12.95 - alt. 2,388 m - Lac du Bois
  13. 12 : km 14.97 - alt. 1,772 m - Bâton Waterfalls
  14. 13 : km 16.56 - alt. 1,698 m - Cable car
  15. 14 : km 17.92 - alt. 1,429 m - Junction towards the Chalet des Chalanches
  16. 15 : km 18.4 - alt. 1,303 m - Clot les Ayes
  17. S/E : km 20.65 - alt. 1,162 m - Car park at a place called Le Tancoutier

Notes

This hike is ED (Extremely Difficult) and the following information is essential.

Timing and equipment:

To complete this hike safely in summer, it is essential to set off at night or by moonlight to reach the Pierre Assise at astronomical dawn (1 hour before legal dawn) and benefit from the refreezing below the pass. It takes approximately 2 hours from (S/E) to reach (2) (440m/h). So, for a typical legal dawn at 6 am, you need to park your car just before 3 am.

The necessary equipment therefore includes:

  • head torch
  • crampons and gaiters
  • ice axe
  • something to rope up with on the snowfield if you’re not alone
  • telescopic poles
  • long trousers, even in hot weather

Even though the hike is barely over twenty kilometres, it’s best to allow around twelve hours to fully enjoy the scenery.

Difficulty and orientation:

Depending on snow conditions (whether it has frozen overnight or not), this hike becomes more difficult. If it has frozen overnight, it is of average difficulty for Visorando’s ED hikes, as crampons grip well. If it has not frozen overnight, it is at the upper limit of ED: you must know how to use crampons on mixed terrain to cross the Col de Belledonne.

It is also important to note that the descent from the pass is more daunting and difficult than the ascent; anyone unsure of their abilities will find it hard to turn back once they have started.

However, this remains a hike and does not fall within the usual scope of mountaineering.

The key reference photos are those showing the Col de Belledonne, the snowfield below the Col de Belledonne and the lake beneath the helipad.

Water:
Water is plentiful along this route. It is best to use a filter near the marked trails.

Worth a visit

Variations:

  • The section past the small lake above Lac de Belledonne is not compulsory (you save 5 minutes by avoiding it).
  • The same applies to the small lake above Lac du Bœuf, but the time saved is less.
  • The descent can easily be made via Lac du Bâton: at the stage (9), instead of continuing down the slope towards Lac du Bœuf, go round the shoulder of the plateau, keeping level, until you reach the point directly above Lac du Bâton. From there, follow the route to Lac du Bâton: descend the snowfields (or scree in autumn) towards the lake and join this route at its stage (8) to descend to its stage where you rejoin our route between (11) and (12). The advantage of this alternative route is that you can make the most of the snowfields for longer and therefore walk in a single line.

Wildlife:
Ibex and mouflon are commonly found in the ‘off-trail’ areas of this route.

Notes:
The town hall and the residents of Allemont have decided to spell the name of the commune with a “t”, and all signs and notices have used this traditional spelling for decades. The IGN and our central government refuse to accept this and use a “d”.

A “bambée” is a Savoyard synonym for a walk, but in practice it is used to describe a long and tiring outing.

Always be cautious and plan ahead when you're outdoors. Visorando and the author of this route cannot be held responsible for any accidents occurring on this route.

The GR® and PR® markings are the intellectual property of the Fédération Française de Randonnée Pédestre.

Reviews and comments

4.8 / 5
Based on 4 reviews

Reliability of the description
4.8 / 5
Ease of following the route
4.8 / 5
Route interest
5 / 5
lbosson
lbosson

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 23, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Hike completed on 22 August 2024, solo.
Set off at 5.30 am with a head torch, returned to the car park at 2.30 pm (at a steady pace with few breaks; I think the estimated 12 hours is about right at a normal pace).
No difficulties until the off-trail section between Lac de Belledonne and the pass of the same name. The first snowfield had completely melted, which made progress difficult on the unstable scree. You need sure-footedness, to have carefully scouted the route before starting the climb, to proceed slowly and to be in good physical condition, but it’s manageable even without the first snowfield!

The descent is long and physically demanding, with long sections requiring constant concentration due to the unstable terrain, but no particularly exposed sections. The only section where I put myself in danger: just before point 14, the path has collapsed into the stream, leaving only a 20cm-wide, slightly sloping section 3 metres long, with the stream 2–3 metres below and nothing to hold on to... Perhaps if you go back down a little, you might find a better way to cross, or else a rope might be useful.

From the 2nd kilometre onwards, the scenery is magnificent and varied, and I didn’t come across anyone all day apart from a small group at the Croix de Belledonne. Lakes and rivers are present all along the route and were very enjoyable. For my first ‘extremely difficult’ hike, I wasn’t disappointed! Thanks for the guide.

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bouvierjr
bouvierjr ★

Hello Florian,

I have done this hike several times (initially to familiarise myself with the route) and on each occasion there was a snowfield partially covering the scree below the Col de Belledonne; this snowfield required crampons and an ice axe, though the ascent was still a hike – difficult, certainly, but not mountaineering.

The recent heatwave is transforming the mountains, and as I haven’t done this route recently, I can only offer an opinion (not absolute certainty): I believe the rocky terrain below the pass can be navigated without technical skills exceeding grade 3 (*) climbing, and that sections of this grade are very short – one or two metres – and very few in number, if not non-existent, and of course never overhanging.

To tackle this type of terrain, you must 1/ be sure to turn back if you have any doubts about your ability to descend, 2/ when passing a grade 3 ‘move’, do so by identifying how to pass it in the opposite direction (or even performing the reverse movement), 3/ make small, calm and slow movements (no forced moves).

Once again, I’m not even sure there’s a single grade 3 section to tackle. The recommendations (ice axe/crampons/rope) apply only to the snowfield.

I hope that answers your question. Happy climbing!

(*) Grade 3 climbing is defined as a steep slope where you need to use your arms to make progress.

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blue_navigator
blue_navigator

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Oct 22, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Hello,

I’d like to go hiking next weekend on my own. The section I’m interested in is between Lake Belledonne and the Belledonne Pass: at the moment, the snow has melted and there isn’t any snow yet.
My question: is this section scree, or will I need to do a bit of climbing? I won’t do it if there’s climbing involved; I have some climbing experience but I don’t do that sort of thing on my own – I don’t want to be found two weeks later...

Thanks for your advice!

Florian

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bouvierjr
bouvierjr ★

I don’t belong to a club, but I encourage donations in the form of maintaining the cairns: simply add a stone to each of those along my routes ;-)

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dcohen
dcohen

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 22, 2018
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

That's tough going! But it's an incredible journey. It took me a month to recover.
Is there a bouvierjr club?

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bouvierjr
bouvierjr ★

Thanks for the feedback; I’ll update the equipment list.
- jr

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fifin
fifin

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 17, 2018
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

I thought the climb to the summit of Grand Domenon via Lac du Bœuf was a bit of a slog, but it’s nothing compared to “THAT”!
I nearly fell asleep on the (endless) descent! Lac de Belledonne is stunning, still covered in snow. The climb up to the pass is very steep; we roped up and stayed on the snowfield, which hadn’t thawed yet.

A rope should be added to the list of useful equipment.

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