The old town and the coastline of Toulon

Park at the free car park at Les Lices.

(S/E) Head east, then south, keeping as close as possible to Vauban’s fortifications (look out for the ‘dog walking route’ sign). Walk through a pine forest and head for the bridge over the railway line. Opposite the bridge, take Rue François Fabié until you reach Boulevard de Strasbourg. Cross the boulevard to reach the Ancien Évêché via Rue de Lorgues and Cours Lafayette.

(1) Turn right, then left into Rue Jean Aicard. On your right are the newly refurbished market halls. Continue straight on and turn left into Rue des Boucheries, walking down the street. Turn right into Rue Émile Zola.

(2) On your right, on Rue des Tombades, are the oldest surviving houses in Toulon. This neighbourhood around the cathedral dates back to the Middle Ages. Retrace your steps and head back along Rue Émile Zola in the opposite direction until you reach the cathedral. Continue, then turn right onto Cours Lafayette to reach the Cours Lafayette market.

(3) Walk past the Baroque Church of Saint-François de Paule, then cross Avenue de la République to reach the harbour quay. Turn left onto it to head towards the commercial harbour.

(4) Turn right, then continue along Avenue de l’Infanterie Marine, followed by Avenue des Tirailleurs Sénégalais, running alongside the wall of the Toulon Arsenal, and finally along Avenue de la Tour Royale. Apart from a few views of the marina, this section is a bit tedious but gives a sense of Toulon’s military past. Head to the Tour Royale crossroads.

(5) Take the^first flight of steps on the right to reach the^16th-century Tour Royale. Head north-west towards the sea. At the fence, turn back and walk along the seafront. Go round the Tour Royale on the right and continue along the coastline. Depending on the sea level and the season, you may need to take off your shoes. Watch out for slippery rocks. Pass several coves at Pointe de Pipady. Walk along the beaches of La Mitre via the Sentier des Douaniers until you reach the Quai de Belle Rive.
(6) Follow this quay until you reach Port Saint-Louis.

(7) Take the steps on the right and walk along the quay close to the water. Continue past Fort Saint-Louis to the north and join the Littoral Frédéric Mistral. Shortly afterwards, turn right towards the Parc des Plages du Mourillon. Head towards the sea and walk past the shops to reach Anse de la Source.

(8) Cross the park to rejoin the Frédéric Mistral Promenade. Turn right onto Avenue du Pré des Pécheurs. Turn right onto Rue Beaussier, then immediately left down Rue Lamalgue. At the bottom, turn right onto Boulevard Bazeilles. Continue on until you reach a large roundabout. Keep left onto Avenue du Maréchal de Lattre de Tassigny. Leave this boulevard by turning left onto Allée du Lieutenant-Colonel Carmi to reach the roundabout opposite the Mayol rugby stadium. Turn left towards the harbour at the Port Marchand junction, which you passed on the way out, rejoining your outbound route.

(4) Follow the route back along the harbourfront in the opposite direction to the outward journey. Continue along Quai de la Sinse to reach the sculpture of the Génie Maritime.

(9) Carry on, taking Quai Cronstadt opposite, until you reach the Naval Museum, the entrance to which is the former gate of the arsenal. Walk past the gate of the current entrance and follow Avenue du Général Magnan. Before crossing Rue Anatole France, take note of the entrance to the former rope-making workshop.

(10) Head towards Rue Pierre Semard, which has been known as Rue des Arts for several years now, with its many galleries and shops specialising in the arts. Take the^second street on the left, Rue du Bon Pasteur, and go and see the ship’s bow protruding from a building. A little further on is the Greco-Roman-inspired Saint-Louis Church. Retrace your steps back to Rue des Arts, then continue along it and take the^third street on the left, Rue Richard Andrieu. You’ll come to a renowned comic book shop on Place Puget.

(11) Head north-west and follow Rue Muraire or Rue Raimu. Walk past the Opera House and continue straight on along Rue Jean Jaurès. Cross Rue Henri Pastoureau and take the^secondright onto Rue Adolphe Guiol. On Boulevard de Strasbourg, you’ll find Place de la Liberté directly opposite you.

(12) Turn left onto the boulevard, carry on to the traffic lights and cross the road. Follow Boulevard Général Leclerc to reach the MAT: the Toulon Art Museum.
Enter the Jardin Alexandre^I and you will arrive in the brand-new Chalucet district of Creativity and Knowledge. Head north and take the exit at the top right of the garden. Continue along Rue Chalucet, cross Boulevard Pierre Toesca and take the footbridge over the railway line. Turn right and follow Boulevard Louvois until you reach an underpass on the left. Follow Rue de Sainte Anne to return to the Lices car park (S/E).

We’re in town, so finding something to eat isn’t a problem.
This walk isn’t just a leisurely stroll, as it will require some effort – not because of the 40-metre elevation gain, but due to the coastal sections, which call for good stamina.
Avoid flip-flops. Bring your swimming costume in the right season.
Sundays and Mondays are less appealing. Other days of the week are also suitable. Personally, I quite like Saturday mornings without setting off at the crack of dawn – that is, around 9 or 10 am – and having a bite to eat in a cove or popping into a little restaurant on the beaches of Le Mourillon.
With stops, detours, a bit of a wander, daydreaming and any museum visits, allow a good 4 to 5 hours.
Enjoy your walk.

(S/E) The Vauban fortifications

Between (2) and (3) The cathedral
(3) Cours Lafayette Market – another local speciality here: ‘cade’
(5) The Royal Tower
(7) Port Saint-Lois: You can take the steps on the left, along the Littoral Frédéric Mistral (main road), to the Museum of Asian Arts and its beautiful garden.
Between (8) and (4) At the top of Avenue du Pré des Pêcheurs, a house with rocaille decoration dating from 1898, shaped like a ruined tower.
(9) Cuverville
(9) Puget’s ‘Les Atlantides’
(11) Place Puget: The Fountain of the Three Dolphins
After (12) the Hôtel des Arts.
Note: please note that Toulon’s museums are free of charge.
Between (12) and (S/E) Chalucet District of Creativity and Knowledge
See also the following links:
- onthe history of Toulon,
- onurban planning
- on Toulon’s heritage and monuments