The Madone d’Utelle from Le Chaudan and the remote hamlets of Utelle

The start is at Le Chaudan, on the M6202. If you’re a regular at the ski resorts, you’ve no doubt driven past it dozens of times without giving it a second thought. Just after Le Plan du Var, cross the bridge and at the roundabout, head towards the Tinée Valley; it’s the small hamlet on the right a few hundred metres further on. You should be able to find a space easily in the car park in a recess on the right.

(S/E) Head up to the church and marker 97. The path is well signposted and will remain so throughout the hike; you’ll have no trouble finding your way. You’ll climb gently up to a ridge overlooking the Var and Vésubie valleys. Throughout the ascent, you can see Bonson on the other side of the Var, then Revest-les-Roches and Tourette-du-Château at the foot of Mont Vial.

(1) Take care here: a small rockfall has created a scree slope that you’ll need to cross for a few metres. It’s not dangerous, but do be careful nonetheless. Continue to marker 98 at the top of the ridge. Looking south-east, you can see Mont Férion and Levens just below.

(2) Head towards the Madone d'Utelle to the north-west; you will take the path from La Villette on the way back. Keep an eye on the small pass of Huesti directly in front of you, which you will go round to the west. The path becomes less steep here and the going is easy.

(3) At marker 99, continue straight on towards La Madone d'Utelle to reach the Col de la Moutète and marker 100.

(4) Here, you must leave the path towards La Madone on the right and head straight on towards Le Reveston and the A-road heading north. The path will begin to descend gently.

(5) Here you reach La Fuont d'Olive, a small hamlet marked as abandoned on the map. I couldn’t find a way in, as nature has reclaimed the area. A small wash house marks the entrance to the hamlet; continue down towards the north along what looks like a stream bed but is actually the path to take (follow the yellow markings).

(6) The hamlet of Les Crottes is another abandoned site where a few ruins still stand. Cross through it, following the markings, until you reach another ruined hamlet, La Penne, consisting of a few abandoned houses, just like the previous hamlet.

(7) Pass between two ruins to continue along the path towards marker 107.

(8) All that remains at La Sagne are the ruins of a single house and marker 107. The path descends either towards the A41 to the south-west or towards Le Reveston to the north-east. Take this path and begin the climb.

(9) At marker 108, you arrive at the entrance to the pretty hamlet of Le Reveston. Flanked by numerous olive trees and terraces, the ruins of this old village are truly full of charm. One building still appears to be inhabited (well-maintained walls and a satellite dish on the roof!). Head north-east until you reach the ruins of the small church and its cemetery. Marker 109 is just beyond and invites you to climb up the hillside towards La Madone, which lies just above.

(10) Cross the small bridge, taking care as it is slightly damaged. A lovely climb to the Cime du Diamant follows. The Madone d’Utelle antenna will gradually come into view on your right; keep it in sight as it marks your destination. Reach marker 119, at the foot of the Cime du Diamant.

(11) Continue to follow the track, which climbs a little further, and you will eventually reach the road and marker 114.

(12) A few metres of tarmac road on the right (and a lovely view of the village of Utelle and the mountains in the background) before rejoining the path at marker 115. You’ll soon arrive at the Madone; just a little more effort.

(13) Marker 116 marks the arrival at La Madone d’Utelle. Pass the oratory and continue to the next marker.

(14) At marker 117, you can continue to follow the path down, but I recommend continuing a little further along the ridge to enjoy the view.

(15) Once past the mast, carry on to the end of the ridge to admire the view. The Tinée valley lies just below, and you can see, amongst other things, the villages of La Courbaisse (and its quarry) below and La Tour, further to the north.

(16) Then turn back.

(15) Head down to the right to rejoin the^GR® and follow it to the right as far as the Col d'Ambellarte. The stony descent is a bit hard on the knees, so sturdy footwear is essential!

(17) At marker 118, at the Col d'Ambellarte, turn right towards Reveston / Chaudan, heading due south, until you reach the next marker.

(18) At marker 105, head straight on towards La Villette / Le Chaudan. The descent is gentle along narrow, stony paths. Pass the small pass of La Signora to finally reach La Villette.

(19) At marker 104, continue straight ahead (south-west) towards La Villette to marker 103, where you will continue towards Le Chaudan, leaving the hamlet on your left.

(20) At marker 101, turn left and continue towards Le Chaudan.

(2) You are back at marker 98 with its lovely view of the village of Levens; head back towards Le Chaudan to return to your starting point (S/E)

There appear to be no water sources along the route, so make sure you bring enough water! I saw a tap at Le Chaudan next to the car park, but I don’t know if it works.

Given the length of the hike and the few sections over scree, good footwear is essential.

Warning: stay alert; I met a shepherd who told me he’d seen two wolves pass by near his flock.

(9) The beautiful hamlet of Reveston.

(13) La Madone d'Utelle and its breathtaking views of both the Vésubie and the Tinée.