La Croix du Lautaret and the Haut Plateau du Vercors Sud

Warning: this walk takes place off any marked track or path for over 16km. See the practical information below for guidance on how to proceed. The description below is highly flexible, as each hiker will need to choose their own route. This description assumes you’ll be setting off with a head torch and therefore follows the most obvious route up to the plateau.

Park at the Fontaine des Prêtres car park, at the end of the D515.

(S/E) From the car park, take the track leading to the large barn in the Vallon de Combau. After 700 metres, look out for a small path on the right that descends into the valley (leave this for the return journey).

(1) Continue along the track to the Vallon de Combau barn.

(2) At the barn, do not turn right onto the signposted paths, but carry on in the same north-westerly direction along the valley floor, initially keeping to the right-hand side of the valley (narrow path). Below the Col du Creuson, the valley straightens out and a slightly steeper path branches off on the left-hand side of the valley. Take this path up to the pass and rejoin the main path heading towards the Bergerie de Chamousset (east-north-east) for a short while.

(3) From the unnamed pass separating the Drôme from the Isère, veer right heading due north to follow the ridge line. A small scree slope with sharp limestone pavement is a nearby alternative route to reach it. Follow the ridge generally northwards (tracks) until you come to the slopes of Les Fraches. Turn left, still following the ridge, to reach the Tête Chevalière due west.

(4) From the summit, continue along the ridge towards a clearly visible group of several cairns (there are four in total, plus a small stone bench amongst the pines). From this secondary summit (1,924 m), look out for a cairn to the south on a less grassy peak (sharp limestone pavement).

(5) Follow the ridges of the ridges heading south-southeast towards this cairn. You may need to step over any sheep pens if there are any (provided there are no flocks, of course).

(6) At the cairn on the sharp limestone pavement, head due south towards the Chamousset sheepfold. The sheepfold itself is not visible, but a water reservoir can be seen along the same line of sight, on the opposite side of the valley. Pass the sheepfold and head up the opposite side of the valley, still heading south, towards a stone shelter and a cairn. Pass the stone shelter (where shepherds store salt for their flocks) and climb up to the hilltop at 1,874 metres.

(7) Two large cairns mark the summit. Look westwards for the first peak of similar height, the Tête des Chanaux. Also note a few waypoints before following mainly the ridges of the secondary peaks to head towards this summit.

(8) At the Tête des Chanaux, take careful note of your bearings and determine the exact direction of south (sun + watch or compass). To avoid getting lost, you must now head due south, or failing that, south-south-east, to ensure you end up at the Jardin du Roi sheepfold or the vaguely passable track leading to it. Set off southwards through a maze of sharp limestone pavements and sparse forests of hook-needle pines (see practical information).

(9) Once you reach the top of the Jardin du Roi sheepfold, turn left, heading due east, to follow the valley floor. Continue in this due-east direction and leave the valley floor as soon as it turns south. Climb up the eastern slope towards the peaks in your line of sight. Below the highest peak, the Croix du Lautaret, turn left, heading north, to reach the cross.

(10) At the Croix du Lautaret, look out for a rounded, grassy dome, dotted with numerous mountain pines, to the east-southeast. Follow the obvious contours of the terrain to climb this small dome, which overlooks the magnificent Marichaume.

(11) From the summit, look out for the gently sloping pass leading to the Plaine du Tisserand (north-east) and descend towards it.

(12) At the pass, look out for the tracks leading eastwards up through the scree slopes below the summit of Ranconnet. Follow these tracks to reach the ridge to the south-east of the summit. Then turn left, heading north-west, to reach the summit.

(13) From Ranconnet, follow the ridge north-west to ‘climb’ the highest point of the walk, the Sommet de la Montagnette.

(14) From the summit, follow the cairns westwards to descend, and when the slope becomes too steep, veer south-west to find a short section descending westwards towards a well-marked path (cairns). Follow this path northwards and then north-eastwards to go round the shoulder of the Montagnette and descend towards the Vallon de Combau (alternatively, go via the Pas de la Coche a little further down, where the slopes are less steep).

(2) Once at the bottom of the valley, pass by the large barn again and follow the track (south-east) until you come to a path leading off into a valley to the east.

(1) Descend into this valley, which is a small dry stream bed leading back to the starting point (S/E).

Difficulty: the only difficulty on this hike is finding your way. The terrain is generally easy to moderate (but be careful of sharp limestone pavement, as it is easy to get your leg stuck and break it).

Be careful never to set out in variable weather conditions; fog is absolutely to be avoided.

Orientation: as with any off-trail hike, it is essential to study the map beforehand in order to identify the crossing points. If you have a GPS or the Visorando app, you can store the crossing points or the route.

The art of off-trail hiking lies in identifying these waypoints, visually if possible, or directionally if the terrain is an obstacle. As progress on the terrain may cause you to lose sight of your target points, you should also identify intermediate points from which you are likely to be able to see part of the rest of the route.

Then, simply aim for these points. To make progress easier, the simplest thing to do is to always stay on the ridges (or crests) in order to have the clearest view possible, even if it means climbing a little more.

The most difficult part of this hike is the north-south section connecting Tête des Chanaux to Bergerie du Jardin du Roi. The forest obstructs the view and the slopes naturally cause you to veer too far west. However, the map shows that the main direction of the sharp limestone pavement valleys is downhill from east to west and then south-west. You therefore need to regularly cross a ridge to reach a valley further east.
A few clearings can also be seen from a distance between the pine trees, allowing you to aim correctly towards the south (find a distinctive tree or rock and head towards it). The sun (rather than your watch) is also a good way to find your bearings, as you can feel its warmth on your skin and therefore navigate without constantly having to refer to a map or landmarks.

If you encounter difficulties, do not hesitate to head due east towards the high plateau, where you are sure to have good visibility.

Apart from this more difficult section, the summit of Montagnette is visible from almost anywhere on the plateau, making it easy to find your way using a map.

And of course, you can also rely on technology and the Visorando app to follow this route.

Equipment: no special equipment is required, but walking poles are always useful, especially on sharp limestone pavement.

Water: there are no water sources on this route, apart from the Bergerie du Chamousset spring (but I haven't tested the water).

Dogs: dogs are not allowed on the high plateaus, but as there are many herds in summer, you are likely to encounter patous (shepherd dogs). Never look these dogs in the eye, move away calmly and ignore their barking. In general, keep a good distance (at least 100m) from the herds so as not to disturb the farmers.

Things to see: wildlife is abundant, especially early in the morning. On my first hike, I saw ibex locking horns at dawn on a vertiginous ridge! Griffon vultures are numerous as soon as the air warms up, making it easier for them to soar. A sunrise over Mont-Aiguille is a unique experience; you’ll need to set off a little under an hour before the official dawn to catch it.

Alternatives: the stated duration is a bit on the long side (7 hours should suffice), and if you’ve set off early, a descent into the Marichaume (see photo) is a must. To do this, do not climb up the slope between (9) and (10), but carry on straight ahead until you reach the pass leading down to this plateau. The exit is on the opposite side, allowing you to climb back up towards (12) without difficulty (see map).

From the Tête Chevalière (4), it is also easy to take a detour via the beautiful Chevalière mountain pasture – see the Combau Valley–Tête Chevalière walk – which adds just 3 km to the distance and 100 m of elevation gain (just under an hour).