The Butte de Vauquois
A land where, for four long years, the Great War left its mark, forever scarring the ground.
A lunar landscape, a hill cut in two by craters 10 to 20 metres wide separating the German front lines from the French lines. Such was the sight of the hill in 1918 that the American soldiers who came to liberate it would remember.
How could anyone imagine that five years earlier, a village of 168 inhabitants stood there with its bell tower...
Here, trench warfare gave way to tunnel warfare: unable to advance on the surface, control of the underground became a necessity. Thus began the digging of the vast network of underground tunnels beneath the Vauquois hill.
A site well worth a visit, unique in its authenticity, preserved intact since 1918, studied and restored through the voluntary efforts of the ‘Association des Amis de Vauquois et de sa Région’.
To find out more, particularly about its history:
Like an open-air book, the Vauquois hill has provided the answers to all questions of remembrance for the past 100 years. Standing 70 metres high, 500 metres long and 100 metres wide, it is situated on the front line, to the right of the Argonne Forest and to the left of Verdun.
It is important to note that almost every means of killing was tested here during the 1,500 days of war: mines, flamethrowers, gas, and explosive devices of all kinds. The toll? 15,000 dead
Visit the site:
La Butte, a site listed as a Historic Monument of the 1914–1918 War, featuring:
• Its War Memorial
• Its Commemorative Building (museum)
• Its remains from the 1914–18 war, forever etched into the ground
• Its mine craters
• Its French and German above-ground and underground installations
• Its permanent exhibition dedicated to concrete blocks
• A unique panoramic view (altitude 290m)
Surface visits are free and open all year round.
You can explore freely, moving anti-clockwise:
- a crater, the result of a mine explosion
- the site of the church (commemorative plaque)
- the site of the Town Hall (plaque)
- the Monument to the Combatants and Fallen of Vauquois
- the Frenchfront line
- "the double Feldwache 3 observation post": Blochaus at the eastern entrance: this is a guard post, sentry post or Feldwache.
- the Germansecond line: observation post restored by the Friends of Vauquois.
- the German tunnel entrance
For information on the museum and guided tours, please visit the association’s website.
Source: website of the Association des Amis de Vauquois et de sa Région
The Vauquois monument was erected on the initiative of the veterans’ associations of the 46th, 31st, 76th and 89th Infantry Regiments, to honour the memory of those who fell in the 5th Army Corps. It was completed on the site of the former town hall at the end of 1925.
Church of the Immaculate Conception
The Church of the Immaculate Conception, rebuilt in 1928.
Notable figures associated with the town
General Céleste Deprez (1855–1940), a general during the First World War, born in Vauquois. He contributed to the town’s post-war reconstruction.
Among ‘those from Vauquois’, the name given to those who took part in the Battle of Vauquois:
Henri Collignon (1856–1915), prefect and former Secretary-General to the President of the Republic, who enlisted as a volunteer at the age of 58 and was killed in action at Vauquois. A memorial stone at the foot of the hill has been erected in his memory.
Auguste Chaillou (1866–1915), a doctor and former researcher at the Pasteur Institute, killed in action at Vauquois.
Lucien-Émile Dropsy (1886–1915), sculptor and medallist, killed in action at Vauquois.
Source: Wikipedia (excerpts)
The French National Necropolis of La Maize
35 km west of Verdun, to the east of the Argonne Forest, the Aire Valley stretches from north to south, through which the road to Varennes runs. On either side stand two hills: to the left, the imposing Argonne massif; to the right, the Butte de Vauquois, atop which the old village once stood at an altitude of 290 metres, forming an exceptional vantage point. The necropolis is situated 500 metres south of the village. It is surrounded by forest and fields.
Naturally bounded by the surrounding forest and situated on sloping ground, it contains 4,368 bodies, 1,970 of which are in the ossuary. A few shrubs mark its entrance, which consists of a single white limestone pilaster. It is adorned with a polychrome decoration: a laurel branch entwined with a sword and a war cross. The plaque ‘National Necropolis / Vauquois’ is affixed below. On the rear side is a hatch containing the register and the visitors’ book. The 2,398 individual crosses and headstones (Catholic, Muslim, Jewish and for freethinkers) are arranged symmetrically across the large grassed area on either side of the central path, leading to the two terraced ossuaries situated on either side of the central monument. These ossuaries, bordered by a low stone wall, are hidden beneath the vegetation. Plaques bear the names of 284 known soldiers, their infantry regiment and sometimes their rank, along with the inscription ‘1,686 unknown’ for the others. Behind this stands an altar surmounted by a slender cross, behind the flagpole bearing the French flag. The monument is bordered by cast concrete shells linked together by a green metal chain. A round mosaic edged in turquoise adorns the intersection of the arms of the calvary; its central motif depicts a Croix de Guerre.
From September 1914 to September 1918, the two armies fought doggedly to gain control of the hill. By mid-March 1915, the village had been recaptured and lost four times. Then, on both sides, the digging of mine galleries began: 519 explosions were recorded. By June 1918, the French had withdrawn their equipment to the rear and sealed the tunnels, whilst a German garrison defended its position to the bitter end against the American offensive. By the end of the war, the old village had completely disappeared and could never be rebuilt on its original site.
Created in 1923, in a lunar landscape, this necropolis holds the remains of soldiers killed in the fighting at the Butte de Vauquois, as well as the remains exhumed in 1924 from 22 temporary cemeteries in the Vauquois-Cheppy region and the Forest of Hesse.
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Today, Vauquois stands as a unique site in the history and memory of the Great War. A symbol of this fierce struggle, this necropolis serves as a memorial to 10,000 soldiers buried there forever. Remains are frequently discovered there.
For further information:
Source: First World War burial and memorial sites – Western Front