Getaway in the Chaîne de l'Estaque starting from Ensuès-la-Redonne

A peaceful hike in the Chaîne de l'Estaque which, despite its modest altitude, offers extensive panoramic views as far as Sainte-Victoire. A few forgotten paths that are a little difficult to find, as well as the climb up the Juan valley, add a touch of wilderness to this route, which takes place in unspoilt natural surroundings where the hum of the A55 motorway, sometimes very close by, does not really disturb the tranquillity of the area.

Details

1550713
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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 10.50 km
  • ◔
    Average duration: 3h 45 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Moderate

  • ⚐
    Back to start: Yes
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 275 m
  • ↘
    Descent: - 270 m

  • ▲
    Highest point: 234 m
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 74 m

Photos

Description of the walk

Access: on the D5 road between Le Rove and Ensuès-la-Redonne, park on the left-hand side of the road (take care) in a small designated area (rubbish container) which can accommodate two to three vehicles. This area is located directly opposite a former pizzeria and an upholsterer's workshop.

(S/E) Cross the road carefully and take a wide, stony track that climbs more or less parallel to the road until you reach the Tour d'Ensuès and its picnic area.

(1) Continue straight ahead and, at the first hunting car park, do the same to reach a second car park where you turn right. You will soon come to a crossroads marked by a large rock on the right-hand side and a sign indicating a buried pipeline nearby.
Turn left. A hundred metres further on, don't miss the wide path that branches off to the right and winds its way through low Mediterranean vegetation. Ignore a narrow path on the left that descends very steeply and continue for about fifty metres to reach a fork that does not appear on the IGN map.

(2) Turn left to begin the descent into the Régouvi valley. Join the very steep path you crossed earlier and follow it to the right. At the bottom of the valley, turn left onto a wide track that leads to a crossroads in a pine grove (wire fence and "Réserve de chasse" sign opposite).
Turn right and, at the junction with a track that makes a hairpin bend to the right, continue straight ahead uphill. At the crossroads at the top of the hill (large majestic pine tree), turn left. Ignore a wide path on the right and continue straight ahead to reach a large open space where several tracks intersect.

(3) Climb to the right towards a pretty wood of sparse pine trees. Reach the ridge and continue eastwards, following the power line on your left. When you reach a fork where three tracks lead straight ahead, take the left-hand track and continue climbing. At a large pylon, the view opens up: the Étang de Berre, Mont Ventoux, Sainte-Victoire and Pilon du Roi are easily spotted in the landscape.

(4) As you approach a small valley on the left with a few white rocks, turn left towards another pylon smaller than the previous one (do not hesitate to turn back if you have passed the valley).

(5) This is a tricky junction where I have placed a small cairn. At the foot of the pylon, look slightly to the right for the start of a very overgrown path that is barely visible on the ground. The path curves to the right and descends to the bottom of the valley, where you really have to fight your way through the last five metres.
Turn left onto a much clearer trail, pass a small electrical transformer, then cross a canyon before reaching a wide path where you must turn right. Ignore a trail starting on the left and continue to a hollow in the ground where several paths and tracks converge.
Turn left onto a wide path that curves sharply to the right before reaching a flat area. At the second grassy section, turn right at a 90° angle and continue for about 50 metres.

(6) This is a tricky junction where I have placed a small cairn. Bear left and look for a very faint trail on the embankment, which is particularly difficult to follow in the short vegetation but becomes clearer about 50 metres further on. At the next fork, take the narrow path on the right, which descends steeply and then levels out, curving to the right towards a small gorge that marks the beginning of the Juan valley.

(7) At the junction with a stony track, turn right and then right again at the next intersection to quickly reach a beautiful grassy, shaded area, ideal for a break, provided you stay away from the beehives attached to the rock face. Then climb up the wild Juan valley, which is very steep but widens out at a small pine plantation where a track joins from the left.

(8) Turn right and follow this track up to the first hairpin bend (elevation 158), where you should leave it and take a wide, partially grassy path on the left. Continue for about 400 metres until you reach a fork marked by two yellow painted markers (underground gas pipe) and a sign indicating a nearby pipeline.

(9) Start climbing the very steep slope on the right, which leads to a flat area where you will join a stony track. Follow this track to the left until you reach a metal barrier (information sign about the Conservatoire du Littoral).
Go around it and immediately turn right, walking alongside a few boulders arranged in a line. Follow a wide double track path overgrown with short grass. At the first fork, turn right, then at a solitary pine tree (be careful not to miss this intersection), turn left onto a narrower path that makes a wide circular loop to the left before joining a track at a concrete telephone pole.

(10) Turn right and continue along the power line. Begin a short descent (beautiful view of Ensuès-la-Redonne), pass a first path on the left, then take the next one, also on the left, to quickly reach a crossroads (small solitary pine tree).
Do not continue straight ahead but turn right to avoid hitting a large area enclosed by concrete walls that can be seen below. Ignore a path on the left.

(11) At the next junction (small cairn), turn left, go down the slope and then climb up opposite to reach the Tour d'Ensuès.

(1) Turn left to return to the starting point (S/E).

Waypoints

  1. S/E : km 0 - alt. 162 m - Parking is available along the D5 road.
  2. 1 : km 0.37 - alt. 166 m - Tour d'Ensuès
  3. 2 : km 1.8 - alt. 162 m - Fork, on the left
  4. 3 : km 2.7 - alt. 118 m - Multiple crossroads, on the right
  5. 4 : km 3.95 - alt. 178 m - Turn left at the fork.
  6. 5 : km 4.07 - alt. 169 m - Start on the path on the right.
  7. 6 : km 5.43 - alt. 96 m - Junction, cairn, on the left
  8. 7 : km 5.91 - alt. 77 m - Track junction, on the right
  9. 8 : km 7.44 - alt. 156 m - Track on the right
  10. 9 : km 7.88 - alt. 174 m - Yellow markers, on the right
  11. 10 : km 8.83 - alt. 223 m - Concrete post, on the right
  12. 11 : km 9.89 - alt. 175 m - Fork in the road, cairn, left
  13. S/E : km 10.5 - alt. 162 m - Parking is available along the D5 road.

Notes

Recommendations

This hike is entirely unmarked. Rated as moderate in terms of distance and elevation gain, it nevertheless requires great vigilance at certain turns and a good reading of the terrain. The GPS track and smartphone app will be a real plus, almost indispensable. In any case, if you get stuck, there are alternative routes that will allow you to continue the route.

This is particularly true in the following places:

(5) Do not continue past the pylon. The thorny bushes quickly block progress. If you cannot find the start of the path, turn back to the main track, follow it to the left for about 400 metres, then turn left to reach the hollow mentioned in the description between (5) and (6). Then simply continue straight ahead.

(6) The fork is located about 50 metres before a small cultivated plot. If you reach the plot, turn back. If in doubt, return to the grassy area and turn right. At the fork shortly after, follow the right-hand branch. At the next junction, turn right again to reach (7).

Between (10) and (11): be careful as there are many paths branching off to the left. The Tour d'Ensuès is a very good landmark.

There are no water supply points on the route. Bring enough water with you.

Avoid in hot weather as most of the hike is in open terrain.

Given the very stony terrain, high-top hiking boots are recommended.

Worth a visit

Reviews and comments

4.5 / 5
Based on 11 reviews

Reliability of the description
4.7 / 5
Ease of following the route
4.6 / 5
Route interest
4.2 / 5
User 28271412

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Jan 05, 2026
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Highly accurate and reassuring live tracking

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Ber ostéo
Ber ostéo

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Feb 27, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Actually, I agree with gise 13: We often hike in this area, but on the sea side. Discovering this side was a pleasant surprise. Beautiful views, valleys, peaks, wide tracks, narrow paths and very narrow paths... And I can confirm: no bare legs!
Thank you for sharing this route, which has made us want to discover others in this area.

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gise13
gise13

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Feb 02, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : Not used / Not applicable
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

No problem following the route with a GPS
We were familiar with the other side: the sea side, which is superb and incomparable, of course! As for this one... well...
Well, no! We liked it: wild nature in certain places, so you need to be covered up, beautiful views, and the motorway didn't bother us.
Pleasantly surprised. Well done
Thank you for this wonderful experience.

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pascol68
pascol68

Overall rating : 3.3 / 5

Date of your route : Jun 19, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★☆☆ Average
Ease of following the route : ★★★☆☆ Average
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

Difficult access to the valleys (starting at point 2) because the paths are cluttered with thorny bushes and are quite narrow, which means your ankles and calves will get scratched if you're wearing shorts! We skipped 5/6/7 for these reasons, having already given up at point 2! But with trousers on, it should be fine. Otherwise, beautiful views of the Étang de Berre, slightly less so of the sea.

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Christophe13006
Christophe13006

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : May 29, 2022
Reliability of the description : Not used / Not applicable
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★☆☆ Average
Very busy route : No

This is clearly not the most beautiful walk. A bare, highly urbanised hill: walk along the motorway, under the high-voltage power line, with a view of the Lhoist quarry. It's not very spectacular. Between points 5 and 6, the path is not maintained, so it's best to protect your legs with trousers :-)

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Charly
Charly

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Mar 17, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Thank you for this beautiful hike, especially in the Juan valley.
Thank you for the cairns, which are indispensable at crossroads.
Be careful before point 3: there has been a lot of clearing, which can sometimes be confusing.
No problem at point 6, the path has been cleared.

Well done again for this wild route (too bad there are no goats!).

C. Perrin

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robert.souche
robert.souche

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Oct 11, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★☆☆ Average
Very busy route : No

It was difficult for a group to park at the starting point of the hike.
Cairns located at the crossroads indicate the directions to take.

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Eloïse et Jean
Eloïse et Jean

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Oct 04, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

A pleasant hike.
You need to pay close attention to the description, as there are two or three tricky points where it's easy to get lost.
If you ignore the smells from the factory below, there are beautiful views of the Étang de Berre lagoon and beyond.
You will also encounter a beautiful herd of goats, but they will not let you get close to them.
There is a lovely picnic spot in the Juan valley.
Far from the crowds, it's very rejuvenating.

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Cathy&Frédo
Cathy&Frédo

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Apr 21, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

A pleasant hike with beautiful views, the only downside being the EDF pylons, but there's nothing we can do about that. The Juan valley is very picturesque, and we encountered two wild goats there.

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Jean Rmb
Jean Rmb

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Jan 27, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★☆☆ Average
Very busy route : No

This hike is located on the northern slope of the Estaque mountain range, where you cannot see the sea and the harbour of Marseille, but rather the Berre lagoon and Sainte Victoire. This slope is particularly exposed to the Mistral wind.
Some sections of the trail that are rarely used are becoming overgrown with dense, rough and prickly vegetation. Do not venture there with bare legs or arms, as it scratches easily (my windbreaker remembers this!).
There are some very pretty passages through narrow valleys and a beautiful view from a summit, but ultimately this is a hike that requires great care not to stray from the trail (despite the author's excellent directions) and leaves a feeling of dissatisfaction because most of the time the tracks are not very interesting. This walk is all the less attractive when you know that you are in this area of the Estaque mountain range, which offers so many sublime hikes right next door.

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cardenas didier
cardenas didier
• Edited:

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Dec 10, 2018
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

Pleasant hike, despite the proximity of the motorway.
Clear and precise directions.
Thank you.

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