Fort de Niolon, the Customs Officers' Path and Port de Méjean

Hike passing by Fort de Niolon, then following the Sentier des Douaniers and the various calanques to Port de Méjean. Return via the plateaus with a beautiful view of the Côte Bleue.
Please note: Practical information. The Sentier des Douaniers features sections that are tricky for young children

Details

2191678
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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 14.85 km
  • ◔
    Average duration: 5h 55 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Moderate

  • ⚐
    Back to start: Yes
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 586 m
  • ↘
    Descent: - 582 m

  • ▲
    Highest point: 237 m
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 1 m

Photos

Description of the walk

Start from the car park at the entrance to the Route de la Vesse.

(S/E) Head to the junction with the Route de Niolon and follow it for about 60 m, then take the path that climbs to the left.

(1) Once on the ridge, continue along the path on the right which joins a track 200 m further on. Continue up the track for about 460 m.

(2) Take the path furthest to the left, which descends into the valley and then climbs up the opposite slope.

(3) Instead of heading up to the right onto the upper track, continue straight on along the path.

(4) Follow the path that branches off to the left, below the stone retaining wall of the track. This path descends to the Calanque du Jonquier, passing over a pretty little stone bridge.
From here, you can climb up to Fort de Niolon (which is not open to visitors) and to the old gun battery on the hill opposite.

(5) At the junction, take the path on the right (blue markings) which descends slightly into the valley, then climbs back up to the coast along the Sentier des Douaniers, passing under the railway line. Continue along this path.

(6) At this point, follow the blue markings carefully and do not take the path on the right leading to a tunnel (the tunnel ends with a step several metres high). The path passes through a small crevice between the rocks to reach the Calanque du Riflard. Continue along the path marked with blue markings, which passes close to a large rock formation resembling a toad.

(7) Once you reach Calanque de l’Éverine, you can descend via a fairly steep path to the beach.
Alternatively, go under the railway line to reach a fork and take the path, still marked in blue, which climbs via steps on the left, to return along the railway line.
Follow the path which, after 500 m, crosses a bridge over the railway line and continues along the coast. Pass Cap Méjean and follow the coast until you reach Port de Méjean.

(8) Turn right onto the road (Chemin du Tire-Cul) which passes under the railway line. At the car park, continue past the barrier along the concrete path.

(9) At the end of the concrete path, take the track that turns sharply left, heading west, then due north, following it for about 1 km.

(10) Just before reaching a fire hydrant (elevation 143), turn onto the path on the right which climbs towards a bench at the edge of the upper path. Follow the path eastwards for 500 m.

(11) Turn onto the path on the left which climbs to the top of the hill where there is an orientation table (elevation 213) with a view of the Rade de Marseille and the Côte Bleue. On the other side, there is a view of the village of Ensuès La-Redonne and, further away, the Étang de Berre.
Continue straight ahead to rejoin the track.

(12) After the fork where a track branches off to the left, follow the path down into the valley on the right.
Once at the bottom of the valley, take the path that climbs up to the left into the Vallon du Pérussier.
After 1 km, rejoin a track and follow it straight on to the gate you can see.

(13) After the gate, continue along the track to the left, then straight on towards the north-west.
Just before reaching the Niolon road, take the path on the left up to the road.
Cross the road and, immediately afterwards, take the path that heads right towards the south, then turns left towards the east.
At a house, the path branches off to the right towards the south-east to reach a crossroads (car park).

(14) Turn right onto the road leading down towards Niolon. You can continue along the road.
After 300 m, take a path on the right which climbs towards a power line and cuts across the bend in the road, rejoining it shortly afterwards and continuing downhill.

(15) At the right-hand bend in the road, turn left onto the path that climbs towards an electricity pylon.
Once you reach the pole, head straight down to the car park which you can see (S/E).

Waypoints

  1. S/E : km 0 - alt. 72 m - Car park at the entrance to the Route de La Viste.
  2. 1 : km 0.51 - alt. 127 m - Climbing rocks
  3. 2 : km 1.19 - alt. 173 m - Trail junction
  4. 3 : km 1.44 - alt. 177 m - Towards Fort de Niolon
  5. 4 : km 1.98 - alt. 160 m - Fort de Niolon
  6. 5 : km 2.8 - alt. 31 m - Calanque du Jonquier
  7. 6 : km 3.65 - alt. 39 m - Calanque du Riflard
  8. 7 : km 4.62 - alt. 16 m - Calanque de l'Éverine
  9. 8 : km 6.77 - alt. 1 m - Port de Méjean
  10. 9 : km 7.22 - alt. 54 m - End of concrete track
  11. 10 : km 8.31 - alt. 144 m - Citerne
  12. 11 : km 8.81 - alt. 176 m - Panorama
  13. 12 : km 9.83 - alt. 196 m - Descent towards the Vallon du Pérussier
  14. 13 : km 11.79 - alt. 228 m - Former landfill site
  15. 14 : km 13.48 - alt. 215 m - Chemin de la Bergerie
  16. 15 : km 14.6 - alt. 89 m - Return to car park. Electricity pole
  17. S/E : km 14.85 - alt. 72 m - Car park at the entrance to the Route de La Viste.

Notes

The Sentier des Douaniers has sections that are tricky for young children.
There is only one water point available at Port de Méjean.
This hike is not recommended during hot weather. There is little shade on the return journey across the plateau.

Worth a visit

Located in the heart of the listed site, Fort de Niolon, owned by the Conservatoire du littoral, is closed to the public. There is a lovely beach for swimming at Calanque de l'Éverine.

Reviews and comments

4.5 / 5
Based on 17 reviews

Reliability of the description
4.3 / 5
Ease of following the route
4.4 / 5
Route interest
4.9 / 5
lemarcheur65
lemarcheur65 ★

Hello User 19640847
Thank you for your comments.
Guide updated

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User 19640847

Overall rating : 3 / 5

Date of your route : Mar 03, 2026
Reliability of the description : ★★☆☆☆ Disappointing
Ease of following the route : ★★☆☆☆ Disappointing
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A very beautiful area, but the starting point for the Route de la Viste does not exist in Niolon or Le Rove.
The description is average and not clear enough; we had to take a different route and
the walk was quite difficult and dangerous on the customs officers’ path

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pbrion
pbrion

Indeed, there is a small error regarding the starting point. It should read "route de la Vesse" and not "route de la Viste".
This is clearly visible on the map.
As for the difficulty of the customs officers' path, this is specified in the description...

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User 19640847
• Edited:

Very beautiful region, but there is no starting point for the route in Niolon or Le Rove.
The description is mediocre and not clear enough. We had to take a different route and
quite difficult and dangerous hike on the customs officers' path.

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ThomasTrail
ThomasTrail

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Jan 09, 2026
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Superb hike, the blue coastline is as beautiful as ever. However, the section between Niolon and Calanque de l'Erevine is closed until February 2026 ==> https://www.laprovence.com/article/regio...

Coming from the fort, there are no signs (or I didn't see any) and I only realised this when I came out of the Calanque de l'Erevine.

A word of advice to trail runners: allow more time than necessary because the section along the sea is very tough going and you'll make slow progress.

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Clémentine07
Clémentine07
• Edited:

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Mar 10, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A really beautiful hike, my first with Visorando, super easy to follow and practical. I'm one of those people who can't really find their way around a map... and for once I set off on my own thanks to this app! The route is very beautiful and the timing is perfect with two breaks for swimming and a picnic.

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goulistan
goulistan

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Feb 17, 2025
Reliability of the description : Not used / Not applicable
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A magnificent hike, not very busy as it's off-season. Breathtaking views of the calanques, and the GPX is easy to follow. You'll love it! Despite the short distance, it really takes 6 hours to complete (including a short picnic break and numerous micro-breaks to admire the scenery). I highly recommend it.
There is a long stretch along the coast which is truly delightful. The return via the plateau (at least until you cross the road) is more monotonous (on a track, and less wild: telephone lines, road nearby, various signs of civilisation). Nevertheless, the beauty of the first part more than makes up for this! If you want to avoid this part, you can try a cross-country path that joins the outward route, visible on the GPX (which I haven't tried yet). Otherwise, why not turn back after the Méjean cove and return by the same route as on the way out?

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domibonnet
domibonnet

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : May 09, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : Yes

We did the hike starting from point 12.
No problems with orientation, except at the bottom of the descent towards the bridge under Niolon Fort: it would be better to indicate that you should not go down towards the sea but up opposite. Emphasise the difficulty of the customs officers' path: vertigo, exposure, steep and therefore long for some.
But very, very beautiful. No regrets on my part.
Dominique

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MrLC313
MrLC313

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Apr 05, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : Yes

A very beautiful hike with lovely scenery. Overall, the signage is clear and precise.
However, classifying this hike as moderate difficulty is not, or is no longer, appropriate!
There are some really difficult sections, close to cliffs and therefore very exposed. Other sections are crumbly and therefore very slippery.
Not suitable for people with children, elderly people, people who are afraid of heights, or people with dogs (though it is possible, the seaside section is complicated).
Be sure to wear good shoes.

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LoloH
LoloH

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Feb 05, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : Yes

Magnificent hike.
A few hesitations due to occasional lack of markings, but you can rely on other hikers to follow the path.
However, some sections are dizzying (sloping rocks, no ropes for safety) and several sections are unstable (scree, small rockfalls).
Three of the four people in our group fell.
The result was a sprained knee.
So proceed with caution. Dreamlike landscape.

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Vincent_F
Vincent_F

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Nov 19, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : Yes

stunning view of the sea and the harbour of Marseille

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A259
A259
• Edited:

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 07, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Superb hike, I really recommend wearing good shoes as some rocks are slippery. I don't recommend it for children. You can swim at Calanque d'Everine, but the descent is steep (watch out for jellyfish).
Follow the blue markings carefully, then follow the railway line that leads to Cap Méjan and the port. It's really beautiful, but I should point out that the return trip inland is a bit boring. However, there is a beautiful view at point 11 with the orientation table, offering a view of the Côte Bleue on one side and the Etang de Berre on the other. It wasn't crowded along the entire hike and the scenery is truly magnificent. The hike took us 4½ hours at a normal walking pace, stopping to take photos of the scenery.

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Tyvy
Tyvy

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Oct 05, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Hike taken during the week outside of school holidays: ABSOLUTELY BRILLIANT! I imagine that during the summer tourist season, it must not have the same charm at all...
Superb cliffside landscapes, crystal clear water, deserted coves
The markings have clearly been redone recently as they are perfectly visible.
Be careful, there are two or three very slippery sections (rocks worn smooth by frequent use) and we came across tourists in espadrilles and flip-flops (yes, really!) in a critical situation. The hike is classified as "difficult", no doubt because of these tricky sections.
For me, the return trip via the inland route was much less interesting than the customs officers' path. If I do it again, I will make a round trip via this path to enjoy the view towards Marseille on the way back.

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Bachasson
Bachasson

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Sep 28, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A superb hike, quite challenging, whose technical difficulties should not be underestimated. I did it with a group of about ten elderly people (aged 65 to 84) who were good walkers despite their age. It is best not to attempt this hike if you are prone to vertigo, as some sections are steep and the handrails are very useful. The last part, between Méjean and La Redonne ("naturist beach"), was a little complicated by the fact that the sea was rough. As a result, we got thoroughly soaked. There is an alternative route that avoids this difficulty by going over the cliff, following the blue markings from Petit Méjean.
Bernard hollowed-out tree trunk serving as drinking trough

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francis henaut
francis henaut

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Feb 20, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : Yes

Pass through the two forts of Niolon. Take care on the section between 5 and 7. Blue trail easy to follow.

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