From Portlligat to Cap de Creus

Parking at Portlligat: €5 per day.

(S/E) Return to the beach, then turn right up the path that runs alongside the stream, between the Hotel Calina and the Es Raco d'en Dani hut. Following the bottom of the talweg, it rejoins the Cap de Creus road just at the entrance to one of the car parks serving the site.

Turn right, then left immediately after the first house. Cross the internal lane of the housing estate, then continue straight ahead between two properties, before forking right to return to the road. Follow the road for around 100 m.

(1) At the first crossroads, take the path leading off at the northern corner. From this point onwards, you're on the old path, and there's no risk of making a mistake, as two low, dressed stone walls flank almost the entire path.

Reach the bottom of the first valley, follow the creek bed for around 150 metres, then after a sharp right-hand bend, climb up to the road above. Follow the road to the right for around two hundred metres, passing the high stone wall of a property.

(2) Turn right to pick up the path again. Once on this path, again lined with low dry-stone walls, leave on the right the path leading down to Sant Lluis beach (a marvel of tranquillity to be reserved for the return journey!) and follow the path until you reach a scree slope. This has been formed by the spoil from the track that was built above it and has distorted the original path. Climb the boulders to find the old right-of-way, and a few metres further on you'll find the track leading to Guillola Bay.

(3) Once on the track, continue to the right and pass between the properties it serves, making a sharp bend to the left. One hundred metres after crossing the "S" which follows this bend, leave the track, which veers off to the right to join Guillola beach, and take the steep path which climbs to the left in the bend. You're back on the old track, framed by low walls, which you won't leave until you reach the edge of Cap de Creus.
The olive groves that used to accompany the walker give way to more or less dense scrubland, but the landscape is still stony. Here and there, you can already see the stone lacework so characteristic of the cape.

One by one, you pass the ravines that form the headwaters of the "calas", whose indentations can be seen a little lower down on the right. In the background, the silhouettes of the lighthouse and adjoining hotel dominate the cape.

(4) At Cala Seca, cross the ravine over a rudimentary dry-stone bridge. Continue along the path framed by two low walls until you reach Cala Jugadora.

(5) As the mineral framing of the path becomes less pronounced, a path enters the slope to the right of the path. Steep and stony, this path winds its way through the vegetation, eventually leading to a tiny but heavenly beach. It can be difficult to find a spot here, as access from the lighthouse road is close by, but what a pleasure it is to take a dip in the turquoise water, above a rich seabed.

Then climb back up to the path that runs some ten metres higher up, to fully appreciate the beauty of this calanque. The path continues until you come to the scree of the lighthouse road embankment, which you have to climb on the right-hand side to reach.

(6) Follow the edge of the road for the length of the right-hand bend, cross to the other side when it veers to the left and cut the yaw.

(7) Continue straight ahead towards the paved path that climbs up to the lighthouse. After a few steep switchbacks, you reach the platform where the site's buildings are located.

(8) Pass the lighthouse and follow the road to the next bend. A number of information panels mark the starting point of the loop that takes in the rugged shores of this landmass. From the signpost, follow the two-way burgundy signs along the route. This signposting is rather haphazard and in very poor condition, and don't rely on visible footpaths, as you'll be walking on bare rock most of the time.

From the starting point, go straight down towards the sea, then turn right to reach a coombe from which the path to the Cova del Infern starts. Leave this path to the right, climb up the ridge on the left to pass it, and then descend towards Cala Ferriol del Dalt.

(9) Overlooking the cove, you come to an area where the rock has turned into lace. It looks as if the fine stone needles emerging from the ground will break underfoot, but they are stronger than they appear. Opposite, the Illa s'Encalladora marks the horizon beyond the small inlet that isolates it from the mainland.

Turn left around the rocky ridge and walk along the cliffside, following the signs as best you can, until you reach the notch in the Racó de sa Clavaguera. This narrow cove continues into a ravine, the bottom of which we follow until we reach Cala Culip. On the right, take care not to deviate from the path, as it runs along the boundary of the Cap de Creus nature reserve.

Once you're away from the shore, progress is easier as you find a well-established path that cuts across this part of the cape.

(10) Leave the path leading up to the lighthouse on the left, and continue walking a few dozen metres to the right to emerge above Cala Culip. It's certainly one of the most beautiful on the cape, even if it's mostly accessible by boat.

(11) Retrace your steps.

(10) Take the lighthouse path. In just a few minutes, you'll be back on the access road to the cape and its stream of vehicles. Turn right, go down the road for about 200 m and at the second bend, find the path on the right.

(7) Take this path again to cut the bend and reach the beginning of the road embankment.

(6) When you reach the road embankment, dip left into the scree, then follow the foot of the scree past the bottom of the valley. The path continues to the left as soon as you reach the other side. Cala Jugadora is again at our feet.

(E) Return to the outward path and the car park (S/E).

Catalan is not Spanish, and Spanish is not Catalan — a quick note on pronunciation. 'Cap de Creus' is pronounced approximately Cap deh Cre-oos, with a clearly rolled R. Using the local pronunciation helps avoid sounding like a tourist !!

As is the case with many isolated tourist spots, a road was built in a hurry to get there. Although the pedestrian path is easy and pleasant, don't expect to be alone once you've reached the cape. The advantage of this is that you'll find plenty to eat and drink.

One hundred and fifty metres before returning to the road section of the itinerary (2), you can slip down to the quiet platja de Sant Lluis, taking the little path that descends to the left of the path, also between two low walls. The detour is short and the pleasure of another bath is within reach.

This route was recognized in October. So there were no crowds on the trails, and the temperature was most pleasant. I don't think you'll find such conditions in the middle of summer.

In addition to patience on the trail's narrowest and steepest sections, you'll need a good hat to protect you from the sun. There's no shade except at the bottom of a few valleys. As for the beaches, not everyone will be able to lay down a towel!

If you have the time, push on to the Paratges de Tuleda, on the other side of Cala Culip. Here, the coloured rock has been sculpted by the winds, giving the boulders very distinctive shapes. It's a good hour's walk from point (6).