From Portlligat to Cap de Creus

Did Salvador Dali, who lived in Portlligat for many years, often travel to Cap de Creus via the camino viell del far? This path hasn't changed much since it was the only overland route to Spain's most easterly point.

The route winds its way between low dry-stone walls, linking the many "calas" along the way. Some of these offer small, secluded beaches, a welcome invitation to take a dip in these rugged surroundings.

Technical sheet

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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 12.56 km
  • ◔
    Average duration: 4h 25 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Moderate

  • ⚐
    Return to departure point: Yes
  • ↗
    Vertical gain: + 303 m
  • ↘
    Vertical drop: - 300 m

  • ▲
    Highest point: 73 m
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 4 m

Photos

Description of the walk

Parking at Portlligat: €5 per day.

(S/E) Return to the beach, then turn right up the path that runs alongside the stream, between the Hotel Calina and the Es Raco d'en Dani hut. Following the bottom of the talweg, it rejoins the Cap de Creus road just at the entrance to one of the car parks serving the site.

Turn right, then left immediately after the first house. Cross the internal lane of the housing estate, then continue straight ahead between two properties, before forking right to return to the road. Follow the road for around 100 m.

(1) At the first crossroads, take the path leading off at the northern corner. From this point onwards, you're on the old path, and there's no risk of making a mistake, as two low, dressed stone walls flank almost the entire path.

Reach the bottom of the first valley, follow the creek bed for around 150 metres, then after a sharp right-hand bend, climb up to the road above. Follow the road to the right for around two hundred metres, passing the high stone wall of a property.

(2) Turn right to pick up the path again. Once on this path, again lined with low dry-stone walls, leave on the right the path leading down to Sant Lluis beach (a marvel of tranquillity to be reserved for the return journey!) and follow the path until you reach a scree slope. This has been formed by the spoil from the track that was built above it and has distorted the original path. Climb the boulders to find the old right-of-way, and a few metres further on you'll find the track leading to Guillola Bay.

(3) Once on the track, continue to the right and pass between the properties it serves, making a sharp bend to the left. One hundred metres after crossing the "S" which follows this bend, leave the track, which veers off to the right to join Guillola beach, and take the steep path which climbs to the left in the bend. You're back on the old track, framed by low walls, which you won't leave until you reach the edge of Cap de Creus.
The olive groves that used to accompany the walker give way to more or less dense scrubland, but the landscape is still stony. Here and there, you can already see the stone lacework so characteristic of the cape.

One by one, you pass the ravines that form the headwaters of the "calas", whose indentations can be seen a little lower down on the right. In the background, the silhouettes of the lighthouse and adjoining hotel dominate the cape.

(4) At Cala Seca, cross the ravine over a rudimentary dry-stone bridge. Continue along the path framed by two low walls until you reach Cala Jugadora.

(5) As the mineral framing of the path becomes less pronounced, a path enters the slope to the right of the path. Steep and stony, this path winds its way through the vegetation, eventually leading to a tiny but heavenly beach. It can be difficult to find a spot here, as access from the lighthouse road is close by, but what a pleasure it is to take a dip in the turquoise water, above a rich seabed.

Then climb back up to the path that runs some ten metres higher up, to fully appreciate the beauty of this calanque. The path continues until you come to the scree of the lighthouse road embankment, which you have to climb on the right-hand side to reach.

(6) Follow the edge of the road for the length of the right-hand bend, cross to the other side when it veers to the left and cut the yaw.

(7) Continue straight ahead towards the paved path that climbs up to the lighthouse. After a few steep switchbacks, you reach the platform where the site's buildings are located.

(8) Pass the lighthouse and follow the road to the next bend. A number of information panels mark the starting point of the loop that takes in the rugged shores of this landmass. From the signpost, follow the two-way burgundy signs along the route. This signposting is rather haphazard and in very poor condition, and don't rely on visible footpaths, as you'll be walking on bare rock most of the time.

From the starting point, go straight down towards the sea, then turn right to reach a coombe from which the path to the Cova del Infern starts. Leave this path to the right, climb up the ridge on the left to pass it, and then descend towards Cala Ferriol del Dalt.

(9) Overlooking the cove, you come to an area where the rock has turned into lace. It looks as if the fine stone needles emerging from the ground will break underfoot, but they are stronger than they appear. Opposite, the Illa s'Encalladora marks the horizon beyond the small inlet that isolates it from the mainland.

Turn left around the rocky ridge and walk along the cliffside, following the signs as best you can, until you reach the notch in the Racó de sa Clavaguera. This narrow cove continues into a ravine, the bottom of which we follow until we reach Cala Culip. On the right, take care not to deviate from the path, as it runs along the boundary of the Cap de Creus nature reserve.

Once you're away from the shore, progress is easier as you find a well-established path that cuts across this part of the cape.

(10) Leave the path leading up to the lighthouse on the left, and continue walking a few dozen metres to the right to emerge above Cala Culip. It's certainly one of the most beautiful on the cape, even if it's mostly accessible by boat.

(11) Retrace your steps.

(10) Take the lighthouse path. In just a few minutes, you'll be back on the access road to the cape and its stream of vehicles. Turn right, go down the road for about 200 m and at the second bend, find the path on the right.

(7) Take this path again to cut the bend and reach the beginning of the road embankment.

(6) When you reach the road embankment, dip left into the scree, then follow the foot of the scree past the bottom of the valley. The path continues to the left as soon as you reach the other side. Cala Jugadora is again at our feet.

(E) Return to the outward path and the car park (S/E).

Waypoints

  1. S/E : km 0 - alt. 4 m - Portlligat car park
  2. 1 : km 0.99 - alt. 40 m - Move from road to path
  3. 2 : km 1.67 - alt. 39 m - Right fork
  4. 3 : km 2.38 - alt. 65 m - Track to Platja Guillola
  5. 4 : km 3.71 - alt. 27 m - Rustic bridge over the Cala Seca ravine
  6. 5 : km 4.77 - alt. 10 m - Cala Jugadora beach
  7. 6 : km 5.21 - alt. 24 m - Embankment of the route du cap
  8. 7 : km 5.35 - alt. 47 m - Cape loop crossing
  9. 8 : km 5.57 - alt. 71 m - Cap de Creus lighthouse
  10. 9 : km 5.98 - alt. 29 m - Above Cla Ferriol del Dalt
  11. 10 : km 6.71 - alt. 34 m - Common A/R branch
  12. 11 : km 6.81 - alt. 25 m - Above Cala Culip
  13. S/E : km 12.56 - alt. 4 m - Portlligat car park

Practical information

Catalan is not Spanish, and Spanish is not Catalan — a quick note on pronunciation. 'Cap de Creus' is pronounced approximately Cap deh Cre-oos, with a clearly rolled R. Using the local pronunciation helps avoid sounding like a tourist !!

As is the case with many isolated tourist spots, a road was built in a hurry to get there. Although the pedestrian path is easy and pleasant, don't expect to be alone once you've reached the cape. The advantage of this is that you'll find plenty to eat and drink.

One hundred and fifty metres before returning to the road section of the itinerary (2), you can slip down to the quiet platja de Sant Lluis, taking the little path that descends to the left of the path, also between two low walls. The detour is short and the pleasure of another bath is within reach.

In the nearby area

This route was recognized in October. So there were no crowds on the trails, and the temperature was most pleasant. I don't think you'll find such conditions in the middle of summer.

In addition to patience on the trail's narrowest and steepest sections, you'll need a good hat to protect you from the sun. There's no shade except at the bottom of a few valleys. As for the beaches, not everyone will be able to lay down a towel!

If you have the time, push on to the Paratges de Tuleda, on the other side of Cala Culip. Here, the coloured rock has been sculpted by the winds, giving the boulders very distinctive shapes. It's a good hour's walk from point (6).

Reviews and comments

4.6 / 5
Based on 22 reviews

Reliability of the description
4.6 / 5
Clarity of route map
4.6 / 5
Route interest
4.6 / 5
Marie Meulle
Marie Meulle

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of walk : Jun 06, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Clarity of route map : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Busy trail : Yes

A very pleasant walk, well described but very sunny with little shade along the route.
When you arrive at Cap de Creus, there is a charming bistro terrace where you can enjoy a drink and a bite to eat.
Very friendly staff.

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GAZEU
GAZEU

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of walk : May 18, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Clarity of route map : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Busy trail : No

parish specific to Brittany

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AlainB64
AlainB64

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of walk : Apr 14, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Clarity of route map : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Busy trail : Yes

Despite a hesitant start, we missed the small path 50m to the left after the information point for the little train, which was not signposted. All we had to do was follow the path and track to the Cap de Creus lighthouse. We left out the grotte de l'enfer because the descent seemed "dangerous" for our physical condition. Thank you for this beautiful itinerary.

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Mok
Mok

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of walk : Nov 15, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Clarity of route map : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Busy trail : No

Done in November. I wouldn't have done this tour in summer, 5 hours in full sun with no shade.
However, the start was full of water, so I found a plan B.
Great tour!

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Servianés
Servianés

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of walk : Jun 07, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Clarity of route map : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Busy trail : Yes

The classic Cap de Creus route.
You will need to be in good physical shape, but there are no difficulties. Possibility of swimming, take river shoes.

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christophe foucault
christophe foucault

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of walk : May 26, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Clarity of route map : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Busy trail : No

A beautiful walk with a "land" part and a "sea" part. Taken in May, the route is adorned with magnificent flowers and scents.

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Melwen
Melwen

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of walk : Apr 21, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Clarity of route map : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Busy trail : Yes

Superb hike to discover the region, done with my children aged 7 and 10, with several picnic and swimming breaks to keep them motivated. It was quite windy that day at the end of the route. Free off-season parking.

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Garricou
Garricou

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of walk : Mar 09, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Clarity of route map : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Busy trail : Yes

Magnificent walk with a permanent view of the sea and all its shades of blue! There are several coves all along the way, which, depending on the season, should be perfect for swimming in these little corners of paradise. Don't forget the water as there's no shade.

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philrandovilaine
philrandovilaine

I'm delighted that you enjoyed this route as much as I did. It's a pity that you did it at this time of year, which probably meant that you weren't able to take advantage of the beautiful coves along the way.
Best regards
PhilRV

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ALBIJOIE
ALBIJOIE

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of walk : Feb 26, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Clarity of route map : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Busy trail : No

Thanks for the track, it was perfect and at this time of year there weren't many of us on it, so we had a great time despite the strong wind....

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lesbubusalain
lesbubusalain

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of walk : Oct 17, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Clarity of route map : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Busy trail : No

A very pretty coastal walk that's perfectly feasible over the course of the day, with a swim on the way back. I loved it.

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MAnnie
MAnnie

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of walk : Jul 02, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Clarity of route map : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Busy trail : Yes

A very pleasant walk, especially along the coast. Lovely coves!
It's a little less pleasant as the path becomes more remote. Be careful in summer, there's no shade!

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babric
babric

Very nice walk, along the small beaches, on the ridges, magnificent scenery

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Fatoche
Fatoche

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of walk : Jun 06, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Clarity of route map : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Busy trail : No

the hike is more difficult than advertised on the information sheet, with very stony sections to negotiate.
beautiful route with beautiful scenery.
cheese platters and cold drinks welcome on arrival at the lighthouse. return by minibus possible.

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hbt
hbt

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of walk : Apr 20, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Clarity of route map : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Busy trail : No

Hello, this route is well signposted. There are also some variations. The finish was more difficult to follow because of the variants, but of no consequence as the lighthouse was in sight.

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