Col d'Ispéguy and the ridges from Saint-Étienne-de-Baïgorry

A very pretty circular route that follows the French-Spanish border ridge, passing through three passes.
A very well-marked red and white path on the Spanish side allows you to pass below the ridges (for those prone to vertigo).

The markings can be helpful, but they change over time due to privatisation, diversions, temporary closures, etc.

This circular may be difficult for some people.

Details

120312
Creation:
Last update:
Last review:
  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 15.60 km
  • ◔
    Average duration: 6h 50 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Moderate

  • ⚐
    Back to start: Yes
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 838 m
  • ↘
    Descent: - 841 m

  • ▲
    Highest point: 904 m
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 153 m

Photos

Description of the walk

Depart from the car park at Saint-Étienne-de-Baïgorry church, Place de l'Église.

(S/E) Leave the car park and turn right, crossing the Nive river.

(1) Cross the crossroads and continue straight ahead (north-west) on the D949 road. Follow the sign for Le Chemin des Contrebandiers. After the left-hand bend, look for a road on the left.

(2) Continue slightly downhill on this small road on the left, which runs along the left bank of the Nive river in a south-westerly direction. After a few bends, this road climbs away from the Nive and heads due west, winding its way along. After a clearing, continue on, passing close to a sheepfold before a left-hand bend, to reach the end of the road.

(3) Continue straight ahead. Follow this path, which climbs gently westwards, runs alongside the forest on your left and turns right (north). After several hairpin bends, this path heads south-west through the meadows and, after a few more hairpin bends, leads to the Col d'Ispéguy (altitude 672).

(4) A well-deserved break can be taken here to enjoy the beautiful view. There is a hotel-bar located on the bend in the road. Cross the D949 road and climb up opposite, north, towards the summit (altitude 826 m). Follow the red and white marked SpanishGR®® trail to the left of this ridge, especially in windy conditions or if you are prone to vertigo.
Follow this ridge (north-east), taking care to avoid the rocks and holes that dot it. Descend to an altitude of 800 m, then climb back up to the rocky point (altitude 842 m).

(5) Here you will find the Spanish red and white markings again. Turn right due east, passing between the rocks, and descend to the Col d'Aintziaga at an altitude of 776 metres.
On the left, a large stone enclosure is still standing. Go around it on the right, following the red and white markings. Then head left towards the north-east to go around the forest and climb up, following various animal tracks, to the summit of Aintziaga at an altitude of 905 metres.

(6) Now head left towards the north-west, following the ridge, and descend to the Col de Buztanzelhaiko (elevation 847). A signpost indicates two directions for theGR®10: Bidarray and Pic d'Iparla. A plaque screwed onto a rock marks the border between France and Spain.

(7) Take the GR®10 to the right, heading north-east, following the red and white markings, and descend into the valley.

(8) A single tree near a small stream provides shelter from the sun. Continue descending in an east-southeast direction.

(9) A short, slightly uphill section (elevation 755) takes you to the other side of the rocky outcrop. Before descending, enjoy the view and watch the many vultures that often circle this very warm spot. Arrive at the Col d'Apaloy.

(10) There are two options:
- Turn right onto the GR®10 and return to the fork (elevation 298), then turn right again, still on the GR®10. Recommended or even mandatory during wood pigeon hunting season.
- Follow the route. Turn left (north-east) onto a tarmac track and leave the path that climbs up to the ridge. At the first left-hand bend, you can cut across future bends by following a marked, sloping path on the right. Further on, rejoin the tarmac track. This track heads due east on a wide spur. There is a drinking trough where you can quench your thirst and refresh yourself. Continue downhill.
Ignore two other tracks that branch off to the left and continue downhill towards the south-east. At the end of the spur, head towards the high point, passing between the pigeon shooting huts, then continue downhill.

(11) At an altitude of 430 m, turn completely left and descend due north. After 200 m, turn right to reach a road after a long descent down a wide, damaged path.
Turn right and follow this road.

(12) After the first left-hand bend, leave the road and take the GR®10 on the left, which cuts across the hairpin bends. Take the road heading north-east, turning left to arrive, after a right-hand bend, at a three-way intersection.

(13) Take the road on the right (GR®10) heading south until you reach the police station. After the police station, turn right, leaving a street on your left. Pass in front of the holiday village. Continue downhill to the main road (D948). Turn right and follow this road, taking care to watch out for traffic. After 300 m, continue straight ahead, passing the Roman bridge on your left.

(14). Leave the GR®10 trail. Follow the left bank of the Nive.

(15) Pass in front of the Château d'Etchaux. Leave the road on your right and continue along the Nive to the other bridge. Turn left to cross this bridge and return to the church car park on your left (S/E).

Waypoints

  1. S/E : km 0 - alt. 158 m - Parking at the church, departure. Cross the - Nive des Aldudes (rivière)
  2. 1 : km 0.09 - alt. 160 m - Crossroads of the circular
  3. 2 : km 0.2 - alt. 166 m - Small road on the left
  4. 3 : km 3.35 - alt. 285 m - End of the road
  5. 4 : km 5.81 - alt. 670 m - Col d'Ispéguy (672m)
  6. 5 : km 7.49 - alt. 800 m - Elevation 842, rocky passage
  7. 6 : km 8.51 - alt. 904 m - Summit of Aintziaga
  8. 7 : km 8.84 - alt. 853 m - Col de Buztanzelhaiko lepoa (847m)
  9. 8 : km 9.04 - alt. 793 m - Tree
  10. 9 : km 10.03 - alt. 736 m - Passage of the rocky spur
  11. 10 : km 10.33 - alt. 713 m - Col d'Apaloy ou Aphaloiko Lépoa (712m)
  12. 11 : km 12.01 - alt. 427 m - At an altitude of 430 metres, turn left.
  13. 12 : km 12.74 - alt. 299 m - GR10
  14. 13 : km 13.42 - alt. 233 m - At elevation 243, at the intersection, turn right.
  15. 14 : km 15.03 - alt. 155 m - Leave the GR10. - Pont Romain (Saint-Etienne-de-Baïgorry)
  16. 15 : km 15.3 - alt. 158 m - Château d'Etchaux (Saint-Étienne-de-Baïgorry)
  17. S/E : km 15.6 - alt. 157 m - Church car park. Arrival

Notes

There is a water point next to the toilets near the church.
There is a drinking trough on the descent after the Col de Buztanzelhay.
Spring water near a house in the Col d'Ispéguy (following a comment from a user).
To my knowledge, there are no open shelters in case of bad weather.
As with all long hikes in the mountains, bring at least 2 litres of water, a snack for lunch, walking sticks if necessary, warm clothing and protection from rain and wind.

Take the GPX track, the description of this route and a 1:25,000 map. (Or the Visorando extract to get the track).

NB: the hike can be modified to avoid the ridges from the Col d'Ispéguy. To do this, take the red and white marked path slightly to the left, on the Spanish side, to the Col d'Aintziaga.

Worth a visit

In Saint-Étienne-de-Baïgorry, there are shops selling regional products, accommodation, a grocery store, public transport, etc.

Gaineko Karrikan lodge

Reviews and comments

4.7 / 5
Based on 43 reviews

Reliability of the description
4.7 / 5
Ease of following the route
4.6 / 5
Route interest
4.8 / 5
Clémentine 40
Clémentine 40

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Nov 10, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

I reversed the route in order to have the maximum elevation gain in the morning.

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lemarcheur65
lemarcheur65 ★

Hello
As indicated:
- from wp3, follow the white and red marked trail on the Spanish side to reach wp4.
- From wp9, follow the white and red marked trail to reach wp11 further down.

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GERARD-40130
GERARD-40130

Overall rating : 3.7 / 5

Date of your route : Nov 11, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★☆☆ Average
Ease of following the route : ★★★☆☆ Average
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Hello
Just wondering if we can avoid areas with empty space? Thank you

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CLODO
CLODO

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Jun 14, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

Do the opposite, stopping at the venta (roadside café) at the Col d'Ispéguy. We did this with the cliffs of Iparla shrouded in clouds, so we missed the impressive views of the sheer drop. The final stretch of road is boring but also relaxing

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Philippe Le B
Philippe Le B

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Mar 05, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

A lovely 15.5 km hike completed in six hours (including a 20-minute lunch break). There are a few kilometres of small paved road at the start, but after that, the trail to the Ispéguy pass is very pleasant. I then lost my way on the way to the summit of Aintziaga, but I easily found the trail again.
The passage along the ridges is magnificent. I had to be very careful and proceed cautiously because the wind was strong (which is often the case in this area). The return to St-Etienne de Baïgorry is pleasant, despite the last few kilometres also being on a small paved road, but it allows you to rest your joints. All in all, a very beautiful hike.

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PASCOUAU
PASCOUAU

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Sep 16, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

A beautiful hike with stunning scenery. The ridge section between points 4 and 5 is challenging due to the rocky terrain

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PtgM
PtgM
• Edited:

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Apr 04, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

We completed this long hike (930m + 930m, 21km320) in 5 hours and 15 minutes in the recommended direction (Camino Primitive and descent via the current Camino), which we highly recommend!
There are no markings from point 4 to the summit, but it is easy to find your way. We did the hike in strong winds, which is best avoided if you want to enjoy it to the full. It's really worth it!
Many thanks to Visorando!!

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Guy Omar
Guy Omar

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 02, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A beautiful loop completed in good weather with two children aged 9 and 13. The first climb is enjoyable. We quickly left the Col d'Ispéguy, which was very busy on the day we passed through, to join the Spanish GR trail that follows the ridge. From the first pass to the third, it is very beautiful, culminating in the Aintziaga and the Col d'Astate, accompanied by griffon vultures and horses. The start of the descent to St-Étienne is beautiful, with a magnificent tree and a slightly aerial path. The end of the hike is less interesting, with an old, rather unpleasant tarmac road and a section of the GR10 that is quite poorly maintained. Apart from at the Col d'Ispéguy, we hardly saw anyone.

Thank you for this route.

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Ansar30
Ansar30

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Jun 17, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

Overall, a very good route with landscapes that are truly typical of the Basque Country. Sheep, horses and cows roaming freely, and even lots of vultures. The start of the descent after the chapel needs updating as the route does not correspond to an existing path. The descent is a bit hard on the knees but it's worth it!
You can fill up your water bottles at the first pass.

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juanluis
juanluis

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Jun 13, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

hello,
As previously mentioned, this route is marked as the "smugglers' trail" until the Col d'Ispégy.
However, now that I've done it, I think it makes more sense to do it in the opposite direction so that you do the longest part in the morning, take a break at the "ventas" at the pass, and then descend (which is much shorter). This second part is also part of the Basque Country mountain bike tour.
Juanluis

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lemarcheur65
lemarcheur65 ★
• Edited:

Hello rando@14

Did you follow my route?

If you have another route, write a description and post it on Visorando...

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rando@14
rando@14

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Jun 04, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

To avoid the ridges, which are for experienced hikers, you can reach the Col d'Ispéguy by following the smugglers' trails. At St Etienne de Baigorry, take trail No. 2 on the left (before the first bend in the road leading up to the pass) and stay on the paved road until it ends
(orange markings) and continue straight ahead to the pass. To descend to St Etienne, you can return to the road (opposite the car park) and climb slightly, taking the GR10 to rejoin trail No. 2, which is 20 metres to the right. Then follow the trail down to the bottom.

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lemarcheur65
lemarcheur65 ★

Hello vivalamuerte

It's true that it's not easy for those who aren't used to juggling all of this.

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vivalamuerte
vivalamuerte

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Mar 20, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

I've done this route three times... but... it was a long time ago... back then, we didn't have all these gadgets to guide us... just a map... pointing in the direction we were going, of course, and sometimes a compass to make sure we were heading north or south or somewhere else...now, I'm trying to get used to smartphones, etc.... It's not always easy... That's why I don't feel comfortable with all these words and passwords... which never work....
I need to contact someone about these issues... I was given a name... to try to understand
Best regards

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GLEPATIO
GLEPATIO

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Dec 12, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

A pleasant route but too much tarmac, especially on the way back. Take your binoculars to watch the birds of prey soaring above your heads...

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