William sabliet

We pass on either side of a valley where the beautiful village of Boissy-aux-Cailles is located, following paths wide enough to walk two abreast while chatting, or trails in single file. The variety of tree species is surprising: oak, chestnut, birch, beech, pine, etc. And also on the edges of agricultural fields where lavender grows alongside beetroot and cereals.The best times to enjoy it to the full are late spring (May-June), when the flora dazzles us with its colours and scents, and autumn (mid-September-October), when the leaves of the trees are adorned with their yellow, ochre and red colours and accompanied by the rich and subtle smells of mushrooms and sometimes game.

“Витоша” (Vitosha) is the iconic mountain that overlooks the capital, Sofia. From Boyana, about 8 kilometres south of Sofia city centre, take a bus (check for the number) or drive to the place known as the “Golden Bridges” (Златни мостове) in Bulgarian. The route is a round trip with the option to stop for a meal at Aleko (45 mins), provided you arrive there before 3.00 pm. The route, signposted from start to finish, passes through Bor, then across the plateau to the ski resort. After a climb through a forest sheltered from the sun, you’ll reach a plateau covered in meadows and flowers in spring – a sight you won’t forget in a hurry – and a breathtaking 1,000-metre view down over Sofia. Fun is guaranteed, but set off early enough in the morning to be at the car park by 9.00 am and make the most of your day in the mountains; it’s a 30-minute drive from the Boyana neighbourhood to the car park: ‘Златни Мостове – Golden Bridges’ – don’t look for bridges, though; they’re actually huge round or oblong blocks of lava.

It is a circular route, partly through the city and partly through a very pleasant wooded park. There are no technical or physical difficulties for an average person capable of walking 6 km. To get there by tram or underground, look for the Bulgaria stop: you’ll be on Bulgaria Boulevard, and it’s just 200 metres to the start of the walk, which I’ve arbitrarily set at the junction of Nishava Street and Bulgaria Boulevard.

It’s lovely in late summer and early autumn thanks to the golden colours of the leaves and the mild temperatures. Take care on the first part of the route, as there are rocks and tree roots on the paths. You’ll pass a troglodyte cave bearing an inscription of a quote attributed to Saint-Exupéry: “We do not inherit the earth from our ancestors; we borrow it from our children”, a viewpoint over the Loing Valley, the Pierre-le-Sault quarry, and the ‘sea of sand’ which you cross to get back to your cars. There are no significant technical difficulties, so it’s fairly easy, but the ground is littered with pine needles in places, so you need to take particular care on the downhill sections.