Rock n' walk – from Auvers-sur-Oise to Hérouville

In 1971, the Grateful Dead were unable to perform their concert due to rain in Auvers-sur-Oise. Michel Magne, the brilliant and whimsical musician, invited them to Hérouville Castle. So get your playlist ready, featuring film scores or experimental music by Michel Magne, composer of, amongst others, *Les Tontons Flingueurs*, *Fantomas*, *Tout le monde il est beau* and *Tout le monde il est gentil*. You’ll also find tracks recorded at this venue, described by David Bowie to Iggy Pop as the world’s greatest recording studio at the time. It saw the creation of three of Elton John’s best albums, two Bowie albums, the Bee Gees’ massive hit Saturday Night Fever, as well as albums by Johnny Hallyday, Jacques Higelin and many others – all on their way to the Château d’Hérouville. Let’s rock.

Details

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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 14.01 km
  • ◔
    Average duration: 4h 15 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Moderate

  • ⚐
    Back to start: Yes
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 98 m
  • ↘
    Descent: - 98 m

  • ▲
    Highest point: 118 m
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 29 m

Photos

Description of the walk

The walk starts at the Gymnase car park, Rue des Ponceaux. If there are no spaces, you’ll find the Gare car park not far away, behind the town hall.

(S/E) Take the street on the right as you leave the car park and turn left onto Rue de Léry (Yellow trail), which runs alongside the Château grounds.

(1) Cross Rue François Mitterrand to take Rue Victor Hugo (yellow trail). Immediately after the bend, take Rue du Réservoir, which climbs to the right (no entry) and joins Rue des Carrières Notre Dame (not signposted except on the map). On the left, take Chemin de la Longue Rue (yellow trail). Cross Rue de la Chevalerie and continue along Chemin des Clos, which turns immediately to the left (red and white markings). Ignore a path on the right and continue to the end where it turns left (Caution: there is a small path that continues; do not take it; pay close attention to the red and white markings on a shrub and, further on, all the markings). This short downhill path is the only difficult part of the walk, but it is so charming. Take the Chemin des Monts on the right (no sign but all the markings are there). At the junction, continue to the right (no markings visible for the first 10 metres, except for one just before indicating a right-hand bend) onto the Chemin des Glaises (name shown only on the map). Pass two small paths on the right, then take the Chemin des Houx to the right after the horseshoe-shaped gate on the right (follow the Yellow A1-A2 trail marked on a post before the bend). The road you cross is rarely used but take care. Take the Chemin du Haut Buisson (tarmac) opposite. At the next junction, take Chemin des Molues on the right, which crosses a wood after Ferme de Cléry (Ranch Rodéo on the map).

(2) Continue straight on until you reach Chemin de l’Acacia, which you take to the left. Cross Chemin de l’Isle (D27), a 80 km/h road (take care when crossing). Continue straight on all the way to Hérouville, keeping the orchards on your right. At the roundabout, take Rue Bourgeoise to the right towards the church.

(3) Leave the church on your right. You’ll reach Rue Georges Duhamel, which you follow to the left. Opposite, the Bergerie du Château was home to Jacques Higelin’s family for a few years (Champagne!). His partner inspired Iggy Pop’s song ‘China Girl’, covered by Bowie in the 1980s. You can see the Château; the south wing is the recording studio. The north wing was destroyed by fire in 1969, destroying all of Michel Magne’s earlier works with the exception of the few albums that had been released.

(4) Continue on the right-hand side of the street towards La Mare, the village’s former wash house (yellow trail). You can stop for a while at this lovely spot (bench, steps and a large open space at the edge of the field)

(5) Return along the same path, but turn left into Vieille Rue to join Rue Paul Bagnard on the left. You can listen to the birds whilst walking along the boundary wall; these are the descendants of those recorded outdoors for Jacques Higelin’s song ‘Vague à l’âme’ (as well as the Concorde that flew past at the time of the recording). Follow the yellow markings and, at the stop sign, take Rue de la Red Cross on the right. Take Rue du Parc on the left, which becomes Chemin de Nesles (not signposted except on the map). In the fields, take thefirst path on the right (Chemin du Bac, named after the ferry that used to cross the Oise). Pass the Chemins du Fond de Fontenelle, then take a path on the right (Yellow trail A1 A2). Be careful: when you reach Chemin de l’Isle (D27), cars are still driving just as fast. Head right, walking single file along the left-hand side of the road for 150 m to take Chemin du Bois le Roi, running alongside the Ravine des Vallées.

(6) The path runs alongside the woods. You will notice a dry path on the ground, not covered in grass. It eventually turns left, although it still seems possible to walk alongside the woods. Follow it and head into the woods. You will find the yellow and white-red markings on a gate a few metres further on. The woodland is rich in biodiversity; you’ll easily spot slow worms, many varieties of butterflies and birds, but also mosquitoes.

(7) On leaving the woods, follow the yellow and white-and-red markings and take the Chemin des Vallées au Veau to the right. The path becomes Rue d’Aubigny and passes in front of the Atelier.

(8) Turn right onto Rue de Léry, then left onto Rue des Ponceaux to return to the car park (S/E).

Waypoints

  1. S/E : km 0 - alt. 29 m - Gym car park
  2. 1 : km 0.4 - alt. 41 m - Château de Léry
  3. 2 : km 3.96 - alt. 89 m - Ranch Rodeo
  4. 3 : km 6.98 - alt. 114 m - Eglise d'Hérouville
  5. 4 : km 7.18 - alt. 117 m - Chateau d'Hérouville
  6. 5 : km 7.46 - alt. 110 m - Washing pond
  7. 6 : km 10.78 - alt. 79 m - Ravine des Vallées
  8. 7 : km 12.19 - alt. 50 m - Bois le Roi
  9. 8 : km 13.78 - alt. 37 m - Atelier de Daubigny
  10. S/E : km 14 - alt. 29 m - Gym car park

Notes

For this walk through fields and woods, don’t forget to bring sun protection and water. There isn’t any in Hérouville.

There are no wetlands, so there is little risk of mud, but the woods on the way back may have quite a few insects. If you’re sensitive to them, bring some citronella.

To get there, there are trains to Auvers-sur-Oise, as well as buses.

In Auvers-sur-Oise, you’ll find all sorts of shops where you can buy a picnic or get some water.

Worth a visit

The Château d’Hérouville isn’t open to visitors, but it’s a legendary site in rock culture. You can easily find videos on YouTube telling its story, a comic book and numerous writings.

The Mare d’Hérouville is a beautiful spot, a far cry from its original purpose as a wash house, and well worth a short detour.

Le Bois le Roi is a lovely, cool spot, full of flowers in spring.

On the way back, there is Auvers-sur-Oise and the memories of Vincent Van Gogh, but that’s another story.

You can round off the walk with a drink or a slice of cake in the charming garden of the Absinthe Museum, not far from the starting point.

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