Pointe de Malhaubert and Neyrard

Warning: extremely difficult hike requiring glacier equipment (crampons, ice axes) and strict adherence to the timetable; it is essential to have descended the snowfields below the Malhaubert breach by midday, which means leaving the car by 6am at the latest. The climbing grade on the ridge never exceeds grade 3.

(S/E) From the car park (see practical information), continue along the track heading due east towards the Cabane des Charmettes, on the left bank of the Malsanne (the stream is therefore on your left). About 1.5 km after setting off, cross the Malsanne then immediately turn right and leave the track to follow a path on the right bank (signpost). The path soon joins another track near the Cabane des Charmettes; turn left onto this track (signposted for Lac du Vallon) to reach, within 50 metres, another signpost on the right for Lac du Vallon.

(1) Take the signposted path. It winds its way up to the Cabane du Pré de la Vache (drinking water) and continues winding along the right bank of the Malsanne waterfalls, leading to Lac du Vallon. Then follow the path that goes round the northern end of the lake to a dry riverbed heading north-east.

(2) Follow this dry riverbed (cairns) to approach the rounded rocks to the north-northeast and climb onto them. A few cairns mark the route, which leads to a scree slope of grey rock. Then head north-east until you reach — just over 2,600 metres in altitude — redder rocks on the right. The cairned path veers south-east with the Pointe de Confolens in sight (see photo for summit landmarks ).

(3) When the path veers eastwards again, leave it and continue off-trail south-eastwards across the rounded rocks, without trying to gain too much height. There are no more cairns from this point onwards. The rounded rocks lead out onto a scree-filled cirque. Descend slightly into this, then start climbing again, still heading south-east, until you reach more manageable rocks. Pointe de Confolens is now in view, as is the Brèche de Malhaubert, which now serves as your target, still to the south-east. When the scree gives way to snowfields, put on your crampons to climb the final few metres.

(4) Leave poles and heavy equipment at the Malhaubert breach. The reference photo of the ridge is essential for understanding how to proceed towards the summit, which lies directly to the north of the breach.
From this pass, climb up the left-hand side of the ridge just below the crest, up to a small hump (see photo). Then switch to the right-hand side and climb up to the foot of the secondary summit, where the slope becomes much steeper. Go round the secondary summit, keeping to the right of the ridge, to reach the small pass between the secondary summit and the main summit.
Then swing left of the ridge to climb up via a simple series of small ledges to the almost horizontal ridge leading to the summit.

(5) From the summit, follow the ridge a little further north to view the Rochail and its promontory, then turn back and descend the way you came to the gap to retrieve your equipment.

(4) From the breach, descend south-westwards across rounded rocks and snowfields, without losing too much altitude, to reach the western ridge of the Pointe de Confolens at a small pass (see location photo – see comments on this photo).

(6) At the small pass, briefly cross over to the south face of the western ridge of Pointe de Confolens, and descend steep, loose scree to follow the base of the rocks on this ridge towards Col du Neyrard (the lowest point of the ridge, at around 2750m). Take a small scree gully towards this pass, ascending it on the right-hand side to make use of the most stable rocks. See also the description of the reference photo of the Arête du Neyrard taken from the small pass.

(7) At the pass, descend westwards across the scree, beneath the rocky cliffs of the Crête du Neyrard, to reach the scree slope below the gentle summit of this ridge. Veer left (south) across this scree, climbing back up towards the ridge as soon as it looks easier, then turn right (west) onto the ridge to reach the summit. From the summit, descend the south-south-west ridge leading to a small promontory offering a fine view towards the “Vallon” and the Paletas.

(8) Head northwards, along the slope and level with the ridge, to reach the pass between Neyrard and Berche Noire. At the pass, turn due west to the left to descend the steep slope towards the Cabane de la Vivolle, clearly visible below. This descent through the “Grandes Casses” is mainly over loose scree. Head towards the waterfalls of the Argentière stream (water source) then follow the stream to the hut.

(9) From the hut, take the path that cuts across the slope below the summit of Les Clottous, first heading west then north-west. The path leads to a saddle (IGN elevation 2371m) where it turns left towards the south-west, descending slightly.

(10) When this path begins to climb, leave it on the right to traverse level along a track through scree, heading west-south-west. Exit the scree above a grassy valley. Then veer right, north-west, to descend towards this valley and the cairn marking the start of a path. Continue north-west along this path to a grassy plateau where the path turns at a right angle to the left (west-south-west). Follow the path along the slope to a signpost.

(11) At the signpost, turn right to head towards the Pré de l’Aiguille (generally north). The path reaches a ridge before winding down through the forest to join the forest track leading back to the car park. Walk down this track (do not turn left onto the first forest track coming from the south-west) until you reach the car park (S/E).

Difficulty:
This hike requires a good command of rock climbing and glacier terrain. There is a constant drop-off on the ridge leading to the Pointe de Malhaubert. Allow around 2 hours for the round trip between the breach and the summit.

The snowfields leading to the breach (4) and the small pass (6) overlook rocky ledges that leave no room for unchecked falls. You must therefore know how to hold your ice axe correctly to control any slip. Falling behind schedule can make these snowfields extremely slippery and dangerous. You must therefore set off from (S/E) before sunrise.

On the scree, you must move in a tight group so that stones dislodged by your footsteps do not gain too much speed should they strike a member of the group.

Allow around 9 hours for the full circular loop.

Equipment:
Personal equipment must include hiking trousers, crampons and an ice axe.
As a group, a 30m rope and harnesses allow you to secure yourselves to the ridges.

Water:
Water is plentiful up to Lac du Vallon, available thereafter thanks to the melting snowfields below the Malhaubert breach, then non-existent until Neyrad. Water can be found again at the stream flowing down to the Vivolle.

Car park:
At Chantelouve, cross the bridge over the Malsanne, continuing along the Chemin de l’Église, and turn immediately left (north) onto a track running alongside the stream. After a few hairpin bends, the track leads to a flat car park with several spaces. With a suitable vehicle, it is possible to drive a little further, to a junction with a farm track coming from the right, where it is possible to park a single vehicle by positioning it on the upper side.

Alternatives:
At the shoulder (IGN elevation 2371m), you can follow a path due west down the steep slope to the flat area just before the signpost for the Pré de l’Aiguille.

For those who find this walk a bit too short, it is possible to extend it by climbing to the Pointe de Confolens and walking along its western ridge from the small pass (6).

It is also possible to set off from the Cabane de la Vivolle (9) to pass over the summit of the Clottous before descending on sight towards point (10).

Wildlife:
Griffon vultures favour the southern flank of the Crête du Neyrard due to the thermal updrafts that develop in the afternoon.

There are many ibex on the Pointe de Confolens, either at the summit or on its south-western slopes.

Chamois favour the grassy terraces above the cliffs bordering Lac du Vallon on its eastern flank.