Historical route through Saint-Denis and walk along the canal

Starting point and access: Basilica of Saint-Denis.
- Metro – Line 13, Saint-Denis Basilique station. Take Exit 2 to Place du Caquet (marked on the map).
- Tram – Line T1, Basilique de Saint-Denis stop. Follow the Chemin des Poulies southwards and you’ll come out onto Place du Caquet at the metro exit.

Historical trail of Saint-Denis

No signposting
The route is marked by 20 numbered themed information points. On the map, these points, as well as other information points, are indicated by the letter i.

(S/E) Make your way to the junction with Rue Jean Jaurès: upon exiting the metro station, turn round on the square; if you’re coming from the tram, carry on straight ahead. Turn left into Rue Jean Jaurès (ignore the sign opposite saying ‘Historical Trail Marker 1’). Ignore the side streets on the right and you’ll come to an ancient ruin on the left-hand side of the street (three pillars and a stone lintel). Then turn sharply right into Rue de Strasbourg and walk past the former premises of the newspaper *L’Humanité* on your right. You’ll reach the apse of the basilica.

(1) Marker 1 is supposed to be at the entrance to the Jardin Pierre de Montreuil but… it’s impossible to find it (despite going round and round in circles). As an alternative, since this marker is dedicated to the legend of Saint Denis, enter the Jardin Pierre de Montreuil and go to the foot of the north gate dedicated to this legend. Then retrace your steps.

(1) On leaving the garden, turn left onto the Allée des 6 Chapelles and find Marker 2. Continue in the same direction, go through the covered passageway known as the ‘2 Pichets’ and find Marker 3 opposite, on the Place du Caquet. Turn left, pass under a very high footbridge linking two blocks of flats and emerge onto Place Victor Hugo (Marker 4). Turn immediately left towards the basilica (Marker 5). Then turn right and walk along the front of the basilica.

You’ll find Marker 6 at the start of a small square situated between Rue de la Boulangerie and Rue de la Légion d’Honneur (in a straight line if coming directly from Marker 5, on the left if you’re leaving after a visit to the basilica). Cross the small square to reach the other side (Marker 7). Then turn right and you’ll find Marker 8 immediately, at No. 2 Rue du Cygne. Continue along Rue de la Boulangerie, passing Rue des Boucheries (Marker 9), Rue du Jambon (Marker 10) and Rue Lanne (Marker 11) in turn. Then continue south along Rue Gabriel Péri. You will emerge onto Place de la Résistance (Marker 12).

(2) Walk along the square with the Memorial to the Deportation on your right. Pass Marker 13 and continue along Rue Gabriel Péri (with the Museum of Art and History on your left). Cross Rue des Carmélites (Marker 14) and join Rue de la Légion d’Honneur (Marker 15). Continue towards the Stade de France, clearly visible to the south (Marker 16 on the right), and cross Rue de la Barbacane (Metro).

(3) Cross the tram tracks (take care) and then a wide avenue (traffic lights). Follow the ‘Stade de France’ sign for pedestrians and walk over the motorway slip roads. On the esplanade (Marker 17), turn left, pass under the A1 motorway bridge and arrive at the foot of a wide flight of steps (Marker 18). Climb the steps and cross the Canal de Saint-Denis via the footbridge (on the right, a lock and a motorway bridge). Walk to the end of the footbridge to reach the foot of the Stade de France (Marker 19). Then turn left, walk along the northern bend of the stadium with it on your right (view of the basilica on your left), pass gates L and K, and reach Marker 20.

Carry on in the same direction, ignoring Rue Jules Rimet on your right (which runs alongside the stadium for its entire length) and continue along Rue Henri Delaunay, which slopes down and curves to the right after a bus stop. At the roundabout at the bottom, turn left. At the traffic lights, turn right and cross a street, then turn left and cross Avenue du Général de Gaulle. Then take the footbridge over the canal.

Walk along the Canal Saint-Denis

Red and white + yellow markings
The markings are sporadic, but as the route follows the canal’s pedestrian and cycle path (which is on your right-hand side) the whole way, this poses no difficulty.

(4) As you leave the footbridge, turn right and follow the footpath running alongside the canal. Pass under a small road bridge on the boundary between the municipalities of Saint-Denis and Aubervilliers (sign for the opposite bank), then under the A86 motorway bridge. Next, pass under a railway bridge, going round the pier on the left. Continue along Quai Jean-Marie Tjibaou (which starts earlier than shown on the map) and walk alongside the gates of Lock No. 4. After a cobbled path, return to the canal bank and pass under a footbridge.

(5) Continue along the quay, which narrows as you pass under a road bridge. Walk past workshops and warehouses on your left. Then go round the base of a footbridge on the left and turn right onto the paved quay. At lock no. 3, first turn left then right and continue along a paved path. Return to the canal bank and walk alongside Square Aimé Césaire on your left. Pass under a road bridge again (Line 12 metro construction site in December 2016) and continue along the quay with warehouses on your left.

(6) Walk past Lock No. 2 and enter Paris (sign for the opposite bank). Pass under the Boulevard Périphérique bridge, then under the Boulevard MacDonald bridge. Before the railway bridge, turn left, go up a ramp and pass under the bridge. Continue along the quay overlooking the canal. Cross Avenue Corentin Cariou (traffic lights), follow it to the left and you’ll find Porte de la Villette station (E) on your right.

To get home:
- Metro – Line 7.
- Tram – Line T3b.

Trainers are sufficient for this route, which is entirely on tarmac, concrete or paved surfaces. There are bars and restaurants near the start and finish points.

A map is required (at the very least, the one accompanying this description). The time given is walking time and does not include stops at information points or a visit to the basilica.

Visit to the Basilica of Saint-Denis:
- Self-guided tour, except for the necropolis of the Kings of France (€9.00 per person in January 2019).
- See detailed opening hours.

Walkers should be aware that this urban route passes through an area characterised by numerous transport links (roads, motorways, railway lines) and various workshops and warehouses along the canal.

Alternative route:
If you wish to stick to the historical route, at Marker 20, at the foot of the Stade de France, turn back, cross the canal again and head for the Saint-Denis Porte de Paris metro station (line 13).

This walk was completed twice by the author, the first time on 28 December 2016 and the second on 6 January 2017.

Historical trail of Saint-Denis:

The route was designed and developed by Nicole Rodrigues and Michael Wyss (Archaeology Unit of the City of Saint-Denis), Luc Fochois (historian) and Jean Kiras (visual artist). The themed information points feature text illustrated with maps, photographs, reproductions of archaeological objects, etc.

The Basilica of Saint-Denis is, of course, a major site on this trail, but it is not the only point of interest. Of particular note are the moving Memorial to the Deportation of the Dionysians (the name given to the town’s inhabitants) and the Stade de France.

To find out more:
- The Seine-Saint-Denis Tourisme page dedicated to the historical trail.
- The page on the Patrimoine et Histoire website dedicated to the Basilica of Saint-Denis.
- An extract fromthe Historical Atlas of Saint-Denis (1999).
- Archaeological studies in the town of Saint-Denis (2014).

A stroll along the Canal Saint-Denis:

The Canal Saint-Denis is ideal for a leisurely stroll, particularly in the afternoon, when the pedestrian and cycle path is bathed in sunshine.