Memories of the Berlin Wall: Bernauer Straße

In the following description, the names of streets and main sites are written in German, i.e. as they appear on site, and in italics. The letter ß, specific to the German alphabet, is pronounced like a double s in English. See the place names in the "Practical information" section.

Access:
- Starting point (or finish): Eberwalder Straße Station: U-Bahn line 2; Tram lines M1, M10 and 12.
- Arrival point (or departure point): Nordbhanhof Station: S-Bahn lines 1, 2 and 25; Tram lines M8, M10 and 12.
- Intermediate point: Bernauer Straße Station: U-Bahn line 8; Tram line M10.

This relatively short and simple route is described in both directions so that walkers can follow it in either direction.

From Eberwalder Straße Station to Nordbahnhof Station (in the direction shown on the map)

(S) The start of the route is a connecting route between the nearest underground station and the actual memorial route. From the station, cross Eberwalder Straße and follow Schönhauser Allee south on the right-hand pavement. After a few metres, turn right into Kastanienallee. Pass the Prater on your right. At the next intersection, turn right onto Oderberger Straße, an avenue with wide pavements. At the final intersection, turn immediately left (do not go all the way to Bernauer Straße) and cross Schwedter Straße.

The memorial trail, dotted with photos, information boards and video terminals, starts here. It runs parallel to Bernauer Straße, at varying distances. The route follows a paved, cemented or metal-plated alleyway alongside buildings. Paths then cross lawns that were once no man's land.

(1) Turn into the unnamed alley opposite. The signs at the start indicate that, according to the route map, you are in zone D. Cross three streets in succession, the second of which is paved. Continue with the buildings on your left and go around a 100-metre area closed to the public on the right (go through the fence on the right and follow the obvious path).

(2) Near the Bernauer Straße underground station, cross Brunnenstraße, which has a central reservation, and enter zone C of the route. After about 150 metres, turn right and then left, cross a cobbled street (view of the Alexanderplatz tower on the left) and continue in zone B across a lawn. Go down a slight slope and pass between the Kapelle der Versöhnung on the left and three bells on a wooden support on the right. You will come to a façade made of tall rusty metal plates.

First turn left and take a passage between these panels and a low brick wall on your left. This will take you behind the remains of the wall on the Soviet side, at the foot of a watchtower. Through the cracks in the wall, you can see the expanse of no man's land as far as the other wall on the French side. Retrace your steps and continue along the plates until you reach Bernauer Straße.

(3) Cross the street and a little further on, on the left, you will find the entrance to the memorial. Climb the stairs of the metal tower to enjoy a panoramic view of the wall in the foreground and the city. Retrace your steps and cross Bernauer Straße again.

(3) Then follow the street to the right, along the wall. This gives way to a low brick wall: after a few metres, turn left and enter what was once no man's land and is now a large lawn (zone A). Continue along the path, keeping a representation of the wall (metal poles) on your right. At the end of the lawn, cross Gartenstraße and you will immediately find the entrance to the Nordbahnhof S-Bahn station (E).

From Nordbahnhof Station to Eberwalder Straße Station (in the opposite direction to the map)

(E) From the station, follow the signs for "Wall Memorial", which will take you to Gartnerstraße. Cross this street.

The memorial trail, dotted with photos, information panels and video terminals, starts here. It runs parallel to Bernauer Straße, at varying distances. The route first follows paths across lawns that were once no man's land. It then takes a paved, cemented or metal-plated alleyway alongside buildings.

Start across a lawn with a representation of the wall (metal poles) on your left. The first signs indicate that, according to the route map, you are in Zone A. At the end of the lawn, turn left and go through a gate that leads to Bernauer Straße. Follow this street to the right, keeping the remains of the wall on your right.

(3) When you reach the memorial, cross Bernauer Straße and look for the entrance to the memorial a little further on the left. Climb the stairs of the metal tower to enjoy a panoramic view of the wall in the foreground and the city. Retrace your steps and cross Bernauer Straße again. Continue opposite, at the foot of a façade made of tall rusty metal plates, and take a passage between these plates and a low brick wall on your left. This will take you behind the remains of the wall on the Soviet side, at the foot of a watchtower. Through the gaps in the wall, you can see the expanse of no man's land as far as the other wall on the French side. Retrace your steps.

(3) Turn right and enter the lawn of zone B of the route. Pass between the Kapelle der Versöhnung on your right and three bells on a wooden support on your left. Climb slightly and cross another large lawn. At the end, cross a cobbled street (view of the Alexanderplatz tower on your right). A little further on, turn right and left and continue into zone C of the route.

(2) Near the Bernauer Straße underground station, cross Brunnenstraße, which has a central reservation, and enter section D of the route. After about 50 metres, go around a 100-metre area closed to the public on the left (the path is obvious; at the end, rejoin the lane through a passage in a fence). Then cross three streets in succession, the second of which is paved. You will arrive at the end of the memorial route, Schwedter Straße.

(1) The end of the circuit is a connecting route between the memorial trail itself and the nearest underground station. Cross Schwedter Straße and turn right into Oderberger Straße, an avenue with wide pavements. At the next intersection, turn left onto Kastanienallee. Pass the Prater on your left. At the end of the street, turn left onto Schönhauser Allee. Cross Eberwalder Straße and you will immediately reach the Eberwalder Straße U-Bahn station (S).

Place names:
- The word most commonly used to refer to a street in a city is Straße (street), regardless of its length or width. This word is most often combined with the name of the street, as in Friedrichstraße. It can also appear separately, with hyphens, as in Rosa-Luxemburg-Straße, or without, as in Spandauer Straße.
- Other words for finding your way around: Allee (avenue, boulevard), Damm (quay), Gasse (alley), Weg (path), Platz (square), Markt (market place), Brücke (bridge), Bahnhof (station ).
- Buildings: Kirche (church), Dom or Kathedrale (cathedral), Synagoge (synagogue), Moschee (mosque), Museum (museum), Schloß (castle), Haus (house).

Public transport:
Public transport is very well developed and very convenient when visiting Berlin (and no doubt when living there too). There are four types of public transport:
- S-Bahn (suburban train)
- U-Bahn (underground)
- Straßenbahn (tram, only in former East Berlin)
- Bus (bus)
Tickets are valid for any of these modes of transport and must be validated. Tickets can be purchased on board from ticket machines. Tickets valid for 1, 2 or 3 days can also be purchased on board, as well as online and printed at home. For further information, visit the City of Berlin website.

Traffic:
- Given the space and urban planning, car traffic, which can be heavy in some places, rarely gives the impression of being as dense as in a large city in France.
- Berliners strictly obey green/red traffic lights for pedestrians and do not appreciate it when others do not do the same. However, there are many intersections without traffic lights or pedestrian crossings.
- Pavements are sometimes shared between pedestrians and cyclists, although this is not always clearly marked.

Equipment:
- Low-cut sports or hiking shoes are preferable to city shoes.
- From November to March, it is generally cold in Berlin and can be extremely cold. During this period, don't skimp on warm clothing.

Times, resources and alternatives:
- The times indicated are walking times, not including the many stops and visits that can be made. Depending on the number of visits and their duration, the time for this walk can vary from a few hours to a full day.
- The route alternates between busy areas and quieter areas. Given the characteristics of Berlin's urban planning, even in busy areas, there is plenty of space.
- Appropriate dress and behaviour are required in churches (see signs at the entrance). No visits to churches during services.
- There are bars and restaurants along the route where you can stop for refreshments or a meal. The toilets in these establishments are for customers only. There are also a few public toilets (paying).
- The route can of course be varied depending on the sites you wish to visit or your inspiration, provided you have a detailed map (see below). It is possible to walk only the section between Bernauer Straße Station (2) and Nordbhanhof Station (E).

Maps:
It is essential to have a detailed map with the names of the streets in German (at least the one accompanying this description). City maps can be purchased on site at the main tourist sites. They can also be obtained in the UK from specialist bookshops (for example, IGN offers a handy 1:15,000 map).

This urban walk was completed by the author on 12 November 2016.

This walk is part of a series of walking routes dedicated to Berlin, none of which claim to be exhaustive in terms of places to see or visit.

The main focus of this walk is the route that follows the course of the wall between (1) and (E), and the Wall Memorial. The monument dedicated to the 136 East Berliners who died trying to escape to the West, between (3) and (E), is particularly moving.

The author completed this walk twice, the first time on 9 November 2009 and the second on 12 November 2016.