Park your vehicle near Menton-Garavan station, or if you are taking the train, get off at the same station.
(S) Head towards the sea 300 m below to start this walk along the seafront. Then turn left (east) towards the Italian border, which is 700 m away.
(1) Cross the border. After 100 metres, just before the metal railway bridge (which you do not take), turn right across the car park.
Cross the car park and the hotel barrier and continue straight ahead. The paved road turns into a coastal path. Pass the prehistoric museums (the new and old ones) overlooked by red rocks and you will reach a small paradise beach surrounded by agaves and Mediterranean plants. Continue along the coastal path for about 100 metres.
(2) When you reach the house, go around it on the right, staying by the sea, and you will be at Punta d'u Darsenun. Then join and follow the large pebble beach, called Spiaggia Darsenun, which is lined with bungalows and wooden houses, located below the railway line and the road.
(3) To reach the beach, take a passage between two houses located two-thirds of the way along the beach.
Then pass under the road and take the steps that lead to the Menton-Ventimiglia road (via strada statale N1). Turn right (east) and follow this road on the pavement. Pass under a double tunnel, then continue to the next tunnel called Mortola.
(4) At the entrance to the tunnel (which you do not take), turn right onto a path that descends and crosses the famous Hanbury Gardens. You are now on the Via Aurelia, which was once used by Napoleon Bonaparte, among others (commemorative plaque located after the stone bridge). At the end of this Roman road, the path leads to a bridge over the railway line.
(5) There are two options here:
- Option 1 (shown on the map) if the sea is calm - Do not cross the bridge but take the small path on the right that descends towards the railway line. At the level of the railway ballast, turn immediately right onto a small steep path through the branches that descends and joins the sea below.
Walk along the seashore over rocks and pebbles; there is no particular danger.
You will soon reach a small fishing paradise, equipped with "pointus" (traditional fishing boats). Here, there are a dozen wooden huts, sheltered from the wind and unknown to all as they are invisible from the road: photos and a break are a must.
Take the path that climbs up the left side of the huts, pass under the railway line to reach the Menton-Ventimiglia road (via strada statale N1). Then continue right towards Ventimiglia.
- Option 2 if the sea is rough - Cross the bridge and climb the steps in front of you. 50 m further on, a path on the right leads back to the Via Strada Statale N1. On this road, there is a safety barrier along the pavement. Walk for about 400 m and, just after a large building on your right (a former dental clinic), you will find a gate in the safety barrier leading to the Roman road.
(6) Open and close the gate, go down the steps and follow the railway line along a path below the road. Go under the railway bridge on the right and continue along the old Roman road heading east, following this quiet road.
The beautiful stone doors are reminiscent of the residential villas by the sea, or places of rest for travellers who travelled to Gaul along this Roman road.
Continue east, then turn left to cross the railway line and follow Via delle Rose to join the Via Strada Statale N1.
(7) Follow this road to the right towards Ventimiglia. When you reach the next tunnel, do not go through it but turn right, following the sign for "Ventimiglia Alta" on a blue sign. Follow the road on the pavement.
At the town entrance sign, you will see the "Forte dell'Annunziata" on your right, a19th-century fortification housing a beautiful archaeological museum, the Museo Civico Archeologico Girolamo Rossi (entrance fee: £6). You can access the courtyard of the fort free of charge by simply ringing the doorbell at the entrance. The view from the inner courtyard is well worth a visit. You will be treated to a magnificent view: to the west, you can see Menton and Monaco, and to the east, Ventimiglia with its circular port below, which is an annex of the port of Monaco.
Take the pedestrian crossing opposite the fortifications, walk a few steps to the right, then turn left towards the entrance to Ventimiglia Alta.
(8) Enter the old town through a majestic stone gate (Porta Nizza) topped by ramparts. The laundry hanging from the windows, the colours, the smells... we are definitely in one of those Italian towns that leave us pensive.
Cross the town and discover every corner of old Ventimiglia, magnificent in its simplicity. Wander through the narrow, steep streets.
Walk 100 metres along the main street, Via Giuseppe Garibaldi. At number 19, on your left, a chapel houses the Oratorio dei Neri: if the door is open, don't hesitate to go in. It is a true masterpiece of Baroque architecture, with a representation of Jesus Christ taken down from the cross beneath the altar.
Then turn left to reach Piazza delle Erbe and, from there, turn right to arrive at the square in front of the Romanesque-style cathedral of Ventimiglia.
(9) Visit the cathedral of Ventimiglia, located on the main street, Via Giuseppe Garibaldi 4. Inside, at the back left of this monument, you will find a glass floor and a staircase leading down underground to the unexpected sight of a crypt and an enormous baptistery.
Leave the building and take the paved road on the left, which will take you behind the cathedral. Walk about 50 metres and take the winding path on your left that descends towards the town.
Cross the road with caution and continue along the path in front of you, which descends into the urban area of Ventimiglia. Turn left and go through an alleyway to reach the Roya river. The footbridge was destroyed by Storm Alex, so follow the river on your left and take the road bridge.
(10) After the bridge, turn right and continue for 200 metres to reach the colourful covered market in the town centre, which is full of fruit, vegetables, Italian pasta and flowers. If you take this walk on a Friday, the footbridge gives you direct access to the "mercato del venerdi", Ventimiglia's Friday market, which is a real institution.
(11) Continue straight ahead on Via della Republica, cross Via Cavour and continue straight ahead to reach the station (stazione), the end point of the walk (E).