January 2026
⚠️Following a rockfall on the RN20 between Ax les Thermes and Mérens-les-Vals, the RN20 is currently closed to traffic in both directions for an indefinite period between the Ax les Thermes south roundabout and L'Hospitalet near Andorra.
This also applies to the paths overlooking the Train Jaune railway line and the road.
NB:
(S) If all the parking spaces at the start are occupied, particularly in July and August (or if you want to avoid crossing the RN at this point), continue for 400 m, enter the village of Thuès-Entre-Valls and look for the Gorges de la Carançà car park (sometimes subject to a charge). Then head for the old station, shortly after the WP (1) via the village streets, Rue de Carança and Rue du Village de l'Eglise; you will need an IGN map to avoid getting lost.
Details of the main trail between (1) and (4)
Although the historical trail is the one shown on the maps, Chemin de Las Ayguès Calentes, there are several possible routes on the ground.
On this route, we prefer to take the "Sentier des Electriciens" (Electricians' Trail), which goes from one high-voltage pylon to another, using ÉNEDIS trails and communal sections. It is partially marked with red signs on a white rectangular background. This is the most frequently used trail and therefore the most clearly marked. The others are sometimes overgrown with vegetation or simply the tops of terraces and not real passable paths.
On the correct path, there are numerous paths to the left or right. Do not take them and stay as close as possible to the high-voltage line.
The distance is short and appears to be straight on the map, but on the ground there are S-bends and several small drops.
If, at the end of the route, you come to masonry structures on the ground filled with water, you have taken the wrong route at point (3) by leaving the high-voltage power line. You are now on private property (not signposted). Either turn back or continue along the path that leads directly to the wild pools at (5), without going via (4). Progressing along this section requires the use of your hands; it is not suitable for the general public.
Duration
I completed this route in just 20 minutes on the way there and the same on the way back, i.e. 40 minutes. Allow 45 minutes to an hour each way to be on the safe side, not including the time spent at the site.
Once there, there are a few easy rules to follow.
The beauty of the site alone warrants the utmost respect for the surroundings!
- Here, silence is required (keep conversations quiet, no music without headphones, listen to nature, feel your body relax, etc.).
- Do not do anything here that you would not tolerate on your street at home, as this may disturb the locals who live and work in the area all year round. Avoiding walking around with your eyes glued to your smartphone can be a nice smart attitude!
- Keep the area clean (take all your rubbish, bottles, cans, cigarette butts, packaging, etc. with you when you leave).
- At the pools, show the utmost respect for other people (undress in a sheltered area, ignore differences (young/old, rich/poor, white/black, etc.), make room for newcomers, stay calm, adopt a relaxed attitude, speak from the heart, avoid naturism if other bathers do not practise it, do not smoke in the pools, etc.);
- eat outside the pools,
* in general, show that a visitor is of impeccable behaviour and that no criticism can be levelled at them!
The site is quite busy all year round, including at night, because when I visited, the surrounding area was sometimes littered with all kinds of rubbish, particularly cigarette butts, tea light holders, partially charred wood, empty bottles, etc. It sometimes takes half an hour to clean the place from top to bottom before swimming. However, it is still more pleasant to have a clean "bathroom"! So be sporting and civilised, and do the same when you visit (bring a small bin bag with you).
The spring and pools
On site, access to the hot spring and natural pools is completely free, as it is public property.
The spring gives off a slight smell of sulphur, characteristic of sulphurous water, sometimes known as sulphur water. This water contains a sulphur compound, hydrogen sulphide, which gives it a smell of rotten eggs. Due to its composition, it is one of the waters used in thermalism, particularly for its beneficial effects on skin and lung diseases. Source: Wikipedia
Water temperatures
Let's talk about bathing: the first pool is around 50°C, the second 45°C and the last 40°C. So you enter the last one first... Gradually, your body gets used to this slightly high temperature. After 5 minutes, it's bliss! The bravest go from the first pool to the second, then the third, which is the hottest.
In the end, we stayed in the water for an hour and a half... And you quickly get used to the heat and the sulphurous smells.
Even in the middle of August (we've been several times), it's often not very busy. There are never more than six or seven of us on site. But there's easily room for five or six in each pool.
The area around the pools is quite large, so you can get changed and dry off very comfortably, as long as you're not too fussy.
Don't bring your latest designer swimwear, as it will suffer a bit in the heat and sulphur...
Drinking water
There is no fresh drinking water on the route. Nor is there any shelter in case of bad weather.
Equipment
It is best to wear proper hiking boots, but sturdy trainers are also suitable. It is worth noting that trainers and flip-flops do not fall into these categories...
Bring basic hiking equipment for medium-altitude mountains.
Safety recommendations and warnings
Regarding the RN116:
As this is a very popular destination, it is essential to remind yourself of the basic safety rules in such places:
- everyone must wear a yellow vest when walking on the hard shoulder or on the road, due to heavy traffic and drivers who tend to ignore speed limits
- increased vigilance +++
- pay particular attention to children
- pedestrian traffic at night is strongly discouraged
- walkers do so at their own risk, having been duly warned by these recommendations
Regarding the crossing of the Train Jaune railway line at Thuès-Carançà (or Thuès-les-Bains) station:
Please note that the railway line to be crossed has athird electrified rail, about 20 cm above the ground, which powers the electric locomotive. It is extremely dangerous.
This rail stops a few metres before the station at (1) and resumes a few metres after (to avoid stepping over it when crossing).
- Please follow the SNCF instructions posted (crossing the tracks is permitted, but caution must be exercised).
- Obviously, do not walk on the railway track itself, but only on the passages reserved for crossing in the station (1) and on the footpath.
Regarding your personal abilities
Natural and wild sites present real risks, as with any hike in the great outdoors. It is up to each hiker to assess these risks; the warnings given for this route are not intended to be exhaustive but simply indicative, so do not ignore them!
In any case, do not overestimate your strength or your ability to undertake the described route or the variations of this short hike, as several hikers have been unable to find the pools despite this description. Before setting off, read all the discussions on the forum (see link below), print out the photos if necessary and study the map at maximum zoom on Visorando.com for PC or on the Visorando app for smartphones; take screenshots to view them on your smartphone.
Finally, do not undertake this hike at night or under the influence of alcohol or illegal substances, as you would be putting your life, that of your hiking companions and that of any rescuers at risk.
Variations
To reach the start of the hike, you can avoid driving and take the Yellow Train from Villefranche-de-Conflent, stopping at Thuès-Carançà station (in season).
For the sake of completeness, there are several alternatives for reaching the spring and pools on foot.
Here I will mention only three that are completely safe. Other variations are strongly discouraged, as they violate laws or regulations:
VARIATION 1 (easy) from the start
(S) and (1) Outside the tourist season in particular, it is possible to avoid crossing the RN116 and save 50 metres by parking your vehicle on the concrete platform of the old Thuès-Caranca station.
To avoid climbing for nothing and having to turn back, send a scout on foot!
OPTION 2 (easy)
Get dropped off by car in front of the entrance to the MAS des Sources. Do not enter the grounds by car, as this is strictly prohibited!
Enter the centre grounds on foot. You are on private property; there is a right of way for pedestrians, so please be courteous, discreet and quick when crossing.
Shortly before the centre's upper car park (there is also another car park below), take a well-maintained paved stairway on the right that winds up the slope towards the Train Jaune station in Thuès-les-Bains. This path is lined with a metal pipe that collects hot spring water. Please note that it is very hot (>60°C).
Shortly after the start of the straight climb, the pipe on the ground forms an "S" shape. Immediately turn right onto the path above a dry stone wall and go through a green metal gate. You are now leaving the Centre's property.
This is the start (or end) of the Las Aygues Calentes (Chaudes Aygues) trail, which joins the Thuès-Entre-Valls bridge car park (and the Carança Gorges) described in the main route.
We will therefore take it in the opposite direction in this variant. It is about 900 m to the basins.
Stay on this path. It is lined with the same metal pipes, sometimes on the ground, sometimes at half-height. Pass under the large multi-arch stone viaduct (known as Pont du Torrent de Faget) over which the Train Jaune railway line runs and under which the Torrent de Faget flows. Leave the large natural warm water basin of this same torrent on your right, which is also freely accessible and often used for swimming.
NB: even here, the water temperature is very pleasant, a mixture of cold water from the stream and warm water from the springs.
The path passes under the first arch of the bridge.
Continue to the spring (5).
VARIANT 3 (easy)
Take the Yellow Train from Villefranche-de-Conflent and get off at Thuès-les-Bains. Take the path down to the centre, reach the green gate and continue as indicated in VARIANT 2.
VARIANT 4 (medium difficulty)
Take the Yellow Train from Villefranche-de-Conflent and get off at Thuès-les-Bains. Cross the tracks opposite the station, go through the SNCF gate and take the narrow path on the right (not shown on the IGN map) until you reach the Torrent de Faget canyon through fairly dense vegetation.
Descend the right bank until you reach the source (5).
This alternative route requires a good sense of direction, mid-mountain hiking equipment and particular vigilance with regard to the various risks involved in the approach walk (dense vegetation, stones in or around the torrent, water pipes that must be protected from damage). It is reserved for experienced, careful hikers, but not for walkers.
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