It’s possible to walk the full circuit of the Chamrousse ski area without ever really seeing it.
Admittedly, you start at Le Recoin, after parking your car in the cable car car park.
(S/E) You head up to the left of an old ski lift along a grassy slope that’s full of flowers in spring (daffodils and elderflower orchids) to reach the Col de l’Aiguille.
(1) A few more minutes’ walk takes you across Les Cargneules and the Casserousse piste (watch out for marmots…) and you leave the ski area behind for quite a while. The path then joins the Tour des Forêts et Lacs de Chamrousse via a long, almost level traverse.
First, head down towards a very damp, flower-filled hollow which was no doubt a lake back when there were still glaciers in the area.
Then, you’ll head up the ridge of Lac des Pourrettes.
A fine example of a lake in the process of being filled in… No longer receiving enough water.
(2) Once you’ve spotted the signposts, it’s easy to find (on the left bank) the path that climbs to the Brèche Robert Nord. This is the one which (according to the map) isn’t marked.
But it’s clearly defined and climbs higher and higher through the scree. It can be tricky early in the season, with a substantial snowfield beneath the Grand Eulier (an unnamed peak on the IGN map to the north of the breach).
At the pass, take a break with some dried fruit to admire the Roberts Lakes.
(3) Take a good look at the colour of the lakes and the climb up to the Col des Lessines before taking the track that heads off on a descending traverse. You’ll arrive at the lakes… so… what colour are they?
(4) After reaching the bottom of the Lacs chairlift (be careful, it’s damp), you’ll find the signposts for the Tour des Forêts et Lacs de Chamrousse to climb to the Col des Lessines. It’s a properly stony climb.
(5) Once at the pass, the round trip to the summit is an interesting option involving a 350m climb. Admittedly, the path continues over scree where you need to take care not to lose the track. Higher up, you’ll find grassy slopes almost all the way to the summit of the Grand Van.
(6) It’s definitely worth planning a picnic break up there if it’s not too windy.
(5) After descending to the Col des Leissines, take the path on the left which cuts across to the Col de la Botte.
(7) Ignore the path on the right and carry on straight ahead. Immediately after the pass, the rocks look as if they’ve been crushed… Take a closer look – it looks a bit like cotton… It’s asbestos!
As you go, you’ll also see one or two small lakes below, beneath the Pas des Escombailles.
Carry on down towards a series of small lakes nestled in their stone settings.
Keep an eye out – this is marmot country.
(8) Cross the Col de l’Infernet before heading back into the wooded area. A break at Lac Achart is a must… if you like crowds…
(9) After the spillway, take the marked path furthest to the right, which heads south-west then west. It will take you above the Arselle, then you’ll cross the Bacha Bouloud ski lift at a flat stretch (1857).
Then look out for two chairlifts and a double ski lift. Head in that direction.
(10) At the Perche double ski lift, carry on towards the Téléski des Dames. Head down the other side to reach a piste. Cross the road and you’ll immediately come to a piste that descends towards Le Recoin.
There is then a climb of about a hundred metres before you reach the car (S/E).
