The Col de l'Ardouère loop from Molines-en-Champsaur

The steep slope on the right bank of the Séveraissette valley is home to the trail crossing the Col de l'Ardouère, which winds boldly through the rugged terrain of a complex and grandiose landscape. Be careful! While the climb up the eastern slope is accessible, the descent down the western slope has some exposed, even vertiginous sections where the slightest slip could be fatal.

Details

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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 11.77 km
  • ◔
    Average duration: 6h 50 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Difficult

  • ⚐
    Back to start: Yes
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 1,202 m
  • ↘
    Descent: - 1,197 m

  • ▲
    Highest point: 2,355 m
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 1,221 m

Description of the walk

From Saint-Bonnet-en-Champsaur, take the D23, then the D123 towards La Motte-en-Champsaur. Drive through the village and take the road to Molines-en-Champsaur, where you will reach the car park at an altitude of 1,220 metres after 4 kilometres on a small road that may be temporarily blocked by flooding from the Torrent des Pins.
Park in the large car park at the entrance to the village on the right.

(S/E) From the car park, turn right and follow the sign for "Départ des randonnées" (hiking trailhead) (yellow markings). Walk up along the Séveraissette and Peyron Roux torrents to the village.

(1) Opposite the sign, turn left towards "Cabane de Peyron Roux". Return to the village and take the street on the right just after the ONF lodge. Walk up through the village on the tarmac road, heading north-east. Pass in front of the church and arrive at the edge of the village, in the forest.

(2) Take the path on the right, still heading towards "Cabane de Peyron Roux".

(3) Continue along the forest path to the north, towards "Col de l'Ardouère", and follow the stream on the right bank until you reach the start of the trail 300 m further on.

(4) Take the path that climbs to the left, leaving the forest track. Climb gradually through the forest, following the boundary of the Écrins National Park.
Cross the Torrent des Baumettes, the Torrent de Chau Creuse, then the Torrent de l'Orteyer and its waterfalls at the edge of the forest. Finally, cross the Torrent du Vallon to reach the Cabane de Peyron Roux, sheltered under the larch trees.

(5) Continue climbing to the left along the path leading to the Col de Font Froide for 750 metres. Crossthe Torrent de Peyron Roux and climb a few switchbacks to the intersection at an altitude of 1,695 metres.

(6) Take the barely visible path on the left towards the Col de l'Ardouère (not signposted), ignoring the path on the right that climbs to the Col de Font Froide (signposted).
The path is fairly well marked and begins by skirting around the Aiguille de Peyron to the west, then climbs northwards. It winds its way around the rocks and crosses a first torrent with a few aerial passages.
Cross the Torrent du Vallon, heading west, and cross a few more ravines before passing the Torrent de l'Orteyer and turning south. The route runs diagonally across the eastern slope of the Col de l'Ardouère, before the final hairpin bends leading to the pass.

(7) From the pass, the descent down the western slope is very steep. Be careful ! You need to be sure-footed. Otherwise, it is better to turn back and descend via the path you took on the way up.

For experienced hikers: continue along the path, which is still very narrow, plunging south-west and winding its way down steep slopes. Then cross westwards, crossing several ravines.
Descend in switchbacks in the most enclosed part of the slope. Then walk along a narrow ledge. The path winds diagonally and in switchbacks on slopes that are less steep but still challenging.
Reachthe edge of the Ruisseau des Pins, where the path continues along the left bank (cairns) with large steps.

(8) Continue the descent opposite, ignoring the path on the right leading to the Col des Portes. Enter the larch woods with their welcome shade. At around 1,500 metres, cross a few logging tracks but continue to follow the smooth path through the undergrowth.

(9) Continue on the path opposite, heading south until you reach the Tour de Molines path.

(10) Follow a less marked path through the fir trees, heading south-east, to reach the tarmac road and the car park (S/E).

Waypoints

  1. S/E : km 0 - alt. 1,223 m - Molines-en-Champsaur car park
  2. 1 : km 0.55 - alt. 1,240 m - Route forestière du Roy
  3. 2 : km 0.75 - alt. 1,258 m - Crossroads of the Molines tour
  4. 3 : km 0.85 - alt. 1,271 m - Torrent de Peyron Roux footbridge
  5. 4 : km 1.04 - alt. 1,316 m - Sartigou crossroads
  6. 5 : km 3.05 - alt. 1,624 m - Cabane de Peyron Roux
  7. 6 : km 3.59 - alt. 1,696 m - Crossroads at 1,695 m
  8. 7 : km 6.72 - alt. 2,353 m - Col de l'Ardouère
  9. 8 : km 9.86 - alt. 1,577 m - Croisement Ruisseau des Pins
  10. 9 : km 10.63 - alt. 1,414 m - Source des Fontettes crossroads
  11. 10 : km 11.31 - alt. 1,266 m - Croisement la Prairie
  12. S/E : km 11.77 - alt. 1,223 m - Molines-en-Champsaur car park

Notes

Be careful! After the Cabane de Peyron Roux, the Col de l'Ardouère trail is neither maintained nor clearly marked. Very narrow in places, it winds its way up the slopes to the pass, so it's best not to put a foot wrong!
On the eastern side, the difficulty is moderate: diagonal climbs, a few short exposed sections, and the arrival at the pass is easy.
However, the western side of the pass is very steep. More technical, the trail is very exposed, even vertiginous, with a passage on a narrow ledge over the edge of the void! Be very careful as the slightest slip could be fatal.

In the village of Molines-en-Champsaur: fountain and food available at the Auberge Gaillard.
In addition to its renowned cuisine, the inn offers six rooms for those who wish to extend their stay in Molines-en-Champsaur. Whether for a meal or an overnight stay, booking is strongly recommended. Tel. +33 (0)6 09 30 07 47 or +33 (0)4 92 43 40 99 auberge-gaillard.fr

Worth a visit

Where the crystal-clear waters of the Peyron Roux and Muande torrents meet, in the shadow of the Vieux Chaillol, Molines-en-Champsaur enjoys a beautiful natural setting. Its name is linked to the mills that once stood here. Mass emigration to the United States, the two world wars of the 20th century and violent floods emptied the village of its inhabitants, leaving the hamlets of Roy, Sellon, Londonnière and Boyers to fall prey to the ravages of time. However, a few permanent residents still live in the village of Molines.
This gateway to the Écrins is the starting point for many hikes.

(3) Just after the footbridge, a micro power station was built during the Second World War by "Jeunesse et Montagne" (Youth and Mountains). Created in the aftermath of the 1940 debacle by a group of air force officers, this organisation, which was a melting pot for many resistance fighters and future guides, gave rise to the UCPA a quarter of a century later.

(5) Located opposite the Cabane de Peyron Roux, at a place called Gibet, a vein of cipolin (white marble) was mined locally before 1950. Remains such as the access path, the old hut and the processing platform are still visible. The white marble from this site frames the doors and windows of the village of Molines, particularly those of its chapel.

Reviews and comments

3.8 / 5
Based on 3 reviews

Reliability of the description
3.7 / 5
Ease of following the route
3.7 / 5
Route interest
4 / 5
diggi
diggi

OK, I have tried to clarify the section between points 5 and 6.

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User 10061776

Overall rating : 3.7 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 05, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★☆☆ Average
Very busy route : No

it should be noted that after the Peyron Roux hut, you must take the Col de Fonfroide route for 300 or 400 metres before turning left towards the Col de l'Ardouère, which unfortunately is not signposted.

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JP13100
JP13100

Overall rating : 3.7 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 18, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★☆☆ Average
Ease of following the route : ★★★☆☆ Average
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

magnificent loop trail, wild; no other people encountered on the entire trail;
Difficult to navigate and follow the trail due to tall grass and few people using it;
a few difficulties climbing up the ravines, but fairly easy nonetheless.
Clarification on the description: after the Peyron Roux hut, continue towards the Col de Font Froide for 750m, then take the barely visible and unmarked path on the left (just a sign for Font Froide on the right)
The descent described as very exposed is actually quite easy; descending via the path you took to ascend would seem more difficult to me...

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Vincent M8.
Vincent M8.

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 04, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

For a long time, this route was marked on IGN maps as a signposted trail (no longer the case). But our group did indeed have a few scares on the descent...
From the pass, the volunteers climbed up to Montaigu (2,592 m). It's fairly easy and gives you a good view of the Valgaudemar.

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