The Château de By and the grape walls of Thomery

This hike, which begins and ends in the forest of Fontainebleau, takes us on a journey to discover the painter Rosa Bonheur (1822-1899) and the château where she lived and set up her studio. We then stroll among the old vine walls that made Thomery famous in its day. A footpath offers the opportunity for a picturesque walk along the banks of the Seine.

Details

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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 9.02 km
  • ◔
    Average duration: 2h 45 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Easy

  • ⚐
    Back to start: Yes
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 50 m
  • ↘
    Descent: - 45 m

  • ▲
    Highest point: 95 m
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 42 m

Photos

Description of the walk

Starting point and access: Thomery station.
- Transilien - Line R, on the section between Paris-Lyon and Montargis.
Take the exit on the side of track 2, the one going from Montargis to Paris (if arriving in the opposite direction, track 1, take the underground passage).

Yellow + Green and White markings

(S/E) With your back to the station, follow the path straight ahead, heading south.

Yellow markings

At the Carrefour des Fraillons crossroads, take thesecond road on the left, the Route du Rocher d'Avon. Go straight ahead (east) and cross a tarmac road. There are two paths on the other side: take the one on the left, Route de la Curée. At the crossroads, continue straight ahead on the path, which narrows. At the next crossroads (sandstone marker indicating the boundary of the national forest), continue straight ahead. Near the railway line, turn right.

(1) Immediately cross the bridge over the railway line. At the end of the bridge, turn right and, after about 20 metres, turn left into the forest. At the next junction, go straight ahead and follow the fence on your right. Further on, continue along a path between two walls. You will come out onto a street; follow it to the left.

No markings

When you reach a school, continue straight ahead (ignore the yellow arrow pointing to the right). This will quickly take you to By Castle.

(2) At the crossroads, turn right onto Rue de la Gare. At the next crossroads, turn right.

Yellow markings

Cross Passage des Écoles on the right-hand side and continue straight ahead. Take thefirst left, Rue de la Source. Cross Chemin des Roches Saint-Aubin on the right-hand side and, when the street turns left, continue straight ahead and downhill along a shaded path.

(3) At the bottom, at a T-junction, head left. Descend gently and note, through the branches, the Seine below on the right. Further on, turn left with the path and go back up. Come out onto a street and follow it to the right.

(4) Immediately turn left onto Chemin du Lavoir. Follow this gravel path straight ahead between two walls (old vine walls) and ignore a path on the left and a staircase on the right. Further on, the path becomes grassy and makes a right-first-left turn.

(5) At the intersection just after a metal gate on the left, turn left and go uphill. Follow the street as it continues and keep going uphill. At the end, first turn left then right onto a wide grassy path towards a fitness trail. At the crossroads at the corner of a wall, turn right. Follow the grassy path that winds between two walls.

(6) At the end, turn right onto Rue de la République. Continue straight ahead downhill and pass in front of Thomery Town Hall. At the bottom, turn left towards the church.

(7) Go around the church on the left to reach its paved forecourt and entrance. Turn right and, at the corner of a pharmacy, turn left onto Rue de Seine.

No signposts

At the end of the street, go straight ahead and cross a car park to reach the banks of the Seine (ignore a yellow arrow pointing to a street on the left). In the event of flooding on the Seine, see the practical information section for an alternative route.

(8) Turn left and take a footpath as close to the river as possible (passing through private property, follow the signs). Go through several gates (close them behind you). Take a footbridge over a branch of the river.

Yellow markings

At an intersection (forest barrier on the left), continue straight ahead on the footpath. Stay on the banks of the Seine, ignoring a turn-off on the left. You will come to a paved area; cross it, heading diagonally to the left (Port d'Effondré, information sign).

(9) Continue along Rue du Général Ségur. Cross Rue Thiers on the left and continue along a dead-end street. At the entrance to a private property, turn left onto Allée du Pavé du Prince. Ignore a turn-off on the left and, after No. 7, continue along a paved path uphill. Pass a forest barrier and continue along the paved path (signposted here as Route du Prince). Continue straight ahead, uphill, ignoring all turn-offs on either side.

(10) Cross the D137 (caution, busy road) then take thesecond path on the left, Route des Fraillons (due south). At the crossroads, continue straight ahead.

Yellow + green and white markings

Carefully go around the Carrefour Duchâtel and continue south to Thomery station (S/E).

To return home:
- Transilien - Line R, towards Montargis (direct access) or Melun and Paris-Lyon (take the underground passage).

Waypoints

  1. S/E : km 0 - alt. 87 m - Gare de Thomery
  2. 1 : km 1.6 - alt. 88 m - Bridge over the railway line
  3. 2 : km 2.3 - alt. 92 m - Château de By
  4. 3 : km 2.79 - alt. 75 m - T-junction
  5. 4 : km 3.18 - alt. 73 m - Chemin du Lavoir - Murs à raisin
  6. 5 : km 3.88 - alt. 60 m - Intersection
  7. 6 : km 4.8 - alt. 62 m - Rue de la République
  8. 7 : km 5.14 - alt. 49 m - Église Saint-Amand (Thomery)
  9. 8 : km 5.61 - alt. 43 m - Seine [la]
  10. 9 : km 6.54 - alt. 46 m - Port d'Effondré - Seine [la]
  11. 10 : km 7.82 - alt. 95 m - Carrefour des Forts de Thomery
  12. S/E : km 9.02 - alt. 87 m - Gare de Thomery

Notes

Train timetables: consult the Transilien website.

For motorists:
Two parking options:
- Thomery station car park (S/E), located on the side of platform 1.
- Salle de la Plage car park (8).

Hiking boots are recommended.

No water sources identified along the route. Bar-tobacconist in Thomery (7).

Check the opening days and times of the Rosa Bonheur Museum (2). Remember to book in advance.

Alternative route in case of flooding of the Seine:
At the end of Rue de Seine, just before (8), turn left onto Rue des Bains du Roy (yellow markings). Then ignore the yellow arrow pointing to the right towards the banks of the Seine. At the T-junction, turn right onto Rue Sadi Carnot. You will rejoin the main route at Port d'Effondré (9). If you have already taken the footpath (8) and find that it is flooded along the way (which may happen shortly before (9)), two paths on the left (or on the right if you have been forced to turn back) will take you back to either Rue des Bains du Roy or Rue Sadi Carnot.

This hike mainly follows aPR® trail designed and marked by the Seine-et-Marne departmental committee of the FFR. A detailed map is useful (at least the one accompanying this description).

Hike completed by the author on 17 September 2022.

Worth a visit

- Forest trail at the start and end of the route.
- Château de By (15th century), where Rosa Bonheur (1822-1899) lived from 1859 until her death and set up her animal painting studio (2).
- Grape walls between (4) and (6). The production of table grapes, of the Chasselas variety, was an important agricultural activity in Thomery until the mid-20th century. The vines were systematically planted at the foot of walls in order to retain heat.
- Picturesque path along the Seine between (8) and (9).

Reviews and comments

4.9 / 5
Based on 19 reviews

Reliability of the description
4.9 / 5
Ease of following the route
4.9 / 5
Route interest
5 / 5
RandoLuc
RandoLuc
• Edited:

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Nov 17, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Very pretty walk, semi-urban, forest and village. Bonheur, which lives up to its name, is everywhere in the village: a pretty harbour, vine-covered walls, really pleasant.

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FFN
FFN

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Sep 08, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Superb and varied: forest, walls and back gardens, banks of the Seine. Top notch and very quiet.

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Alzan
Alzan

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Mar 20, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

This route, taken on the first day of spring in sunny weather, was very pleasant in itself, with its varied landscapes and flowers along the way: white wild anemones in the undergrowth, wild primroses of all colours in the gardens, and the whole section with grapevines and trees in bloom...
There weren't many people as it was a weekday.
Thank you. Martine

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Fabrice 77176
Fabrice 77176
• Edited:

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Dec 02, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : Yes

A very beautiful walk with no difficulties.

You can start at the station or in the village centre.

The route follows yellow markings for most of the way.

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brigitteCC
brigitteCC

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Jun 26, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Lovely walk, good explanations apart from one small detail: the last section is a tarmac road, whereas I was looking for a forest path.
Thank you very much

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CB2424CB
CB2424CB

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : May 27, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

The hike, which includes a visit to By Castle and a surprise discovery of the Longs Sillons trail, is very pleasant, beautiful and varied. Photo exhibition on Rosa Bonheur along the route

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RV94800
RV94800

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Apr 29, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A very interesting route that introduces us to activities from the early 20th century and a whole network of paths within Thomery. Be careful when parking in the Thomery station car park, though, so that your car doesn't get stuck. Regulars who are in a hurry may park haphazardly.

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veronique meurgues
veronique meurgues

The hike combined with a visit to By Castle is very pleasant. The fact is that it drizzled all the way. And part of the path along the Seine was under water, but we found a solution easily.
The hike must be even more enjoyable in good weather.

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nm75
nm75

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 30, 2023
Reliability of the description : Not used / Not applicable
Ease of following the route : Not used / Not applicable
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A fairly short and easy hike. The grounds of Rosa Bonheur Castle are beautiful, but it's best to book in advance if you want to visit the castle itself. A charming volunteer winegrower explained the vine-covered walls of Thomery to us. What luck!

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Lucal
Lucal

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 08, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Thank you for this enjoyable walk with a cultural twist concerning fruit production in Seine-et-Marne for Paris in the 19th century, which provided food for thought on competition between modes of transport (river navigation vs. rail).
The route is fairly urban, which is a bit of a change in this region where forests are common and highly prized.
One detail at (8): there are no gates to open or close, as all private properties have fences set back from the footpath, which is completely open to the public all the way to Port de l'Effondré.

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christinecolombel
christinecolombel

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Jun 13, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Good evening,
The route is very pretty, varied and well described. The section through Les Longs Sillons is currently enhanced by an exhibition on Rosa Bonheur, with photos along the route.
I suggest a few minor clarifications to the text:
- between points 2 and 3: "when the street turns left, continue straight ahead and downhill along a shaded path": a sign with an arrow indicates Chemin des Sheep Pastures.
- at point 4: "turn left onto Chemin du Lavoir" – perhaps add "which continues onto Chemin des Grands Clots"
Kind regards

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Netra
Netra ★

Hello Martine, and thank you for your comments. I'm glad to hear that your group enjoyed the hike.

As for the Rosa Bonheur Museum, I have added a recommendation to book in advance to the practical information section.

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Martine Desicy
Martine Desicy

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Apr 19, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A beautiful hike combined with a visit to the Rosa Bonheur museum (booked two months in advance). There were 24 of us hiking, the sun was shining all day, and we had a picnic on the banks of the Seine. It was the kind of day we love.
Martine

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Phildor
Phildor
• Edited:

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Apr 17, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

I found this hike very enjoyable due to its diverse landscapes and points of interest. I had a great time.

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Valhud
Valhud
• Edited:

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Feb 27, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A varied route with many architectural and natural points of interest, punctuated by reproductions of paintings by Rosa Bonheur. Booking is essential to visit Rosa Bonheur's studio. A very beautiful walk!

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