La Sainte-Victoire: from Pic des Mouches to Croix de Provence

A long circular hike starting from Vauvenargues that follows the Sainte-Victoire ridge from the Pic des Mouches to the Croix de Provence.

Details

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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 20.54 km
  • ◔
    Duration according to the author: 7 hrs 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Very difficult

  • ⚐
    Back to start: Yes
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 907 m
  • ↘
    Descent: - 910 m

  • ▲
    Highest point: 1,010 m
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 355 m

Photos

Description of the walk

Departure from the Gouirand car park in the village of Vauvenargues, behind the Picasso family castle.

(S/E) Take the path at the end of the car park heading south and cross a stream.

(1) After climbing a few metres, follow the green trail on the left heading south-east. This trail climbs gently through the woods and leads to a wide track at an altitude of 490 metres.

(2) Leave the green markings and follow the track on the left heading east, which climbs gradually along the ridge of Sainte-Victoire. Leave a track on your left... it's a bit long, but it allows you to make a loop!

(3) At the intersection, continue on the main track that climbs to the right. You are now two-thirds of the way up the track... Continue to the D10 road (600m).

(4) When you reach the road, go up to the right for two bends to reach the Col des Portes (631m).

(5) At the Col des Portes, follow the red markings south-west, which climb for about an hour to the Pic des Mouches, the highest point of the massif (1,011 m), from where you will have a view of the entire length of the ridge as far as the Croix de Provence.

(6) From Pic des Mouches, continue on theGR®9westwards, going around the Bau de l'Aigle on the right, then following the ridge mainly on the north side. After about 1 hour 30 minutes, you will arrive at the Bau des Vespres, a wide plateau almost as high as the Pic des Mouches, offering a magnificent view of the eastern part of the massif.
Continue on theGR® to the Croix de Provence, not forgetting to make a tiny detour to the top of the Garagaï for a superb view of the Croix de Provence.

(7) Once you reach the Croix de Provence (946m), enjoy the view of Aix-en-Provence and the Etang de Berre, then begin the descent via the Prieuré de la Sainte-Victoire.

(8) 150m after the priory, turn right and follow theGR®9. This is a stony, winding path, which then turns into a very steep and tiring track that is half tarmac and half concrete!

(9) When the slope levels out, you will come to a junction. Continue left, following theGR®9to join the D10 road.

(10) At the road, turn right onto theGR®9and follow the track to the village of Vauvenargues.

(11) At a small fountain, leave the D10 and turn right into the village. Pass the cemetery and the school, then cross the village centre to return to the starting point (S/E).

Waypoints

  1. S/E : km 0 - alt. 415 m - Gouirand car park
  2. 1 : km 0.26 - alt. 403 m - Green signposts on the left
  3. 2 : km 1.02 - alt. 490 m - Trail (490 m)
  4. 3 : km 3.78 - alt. 569 m - Track intersection
  5. 4 : km 5.65 - alt. 599 m - RD 10 (600 m)
  6. 5 : km 6.09 - alt. 631 m - Col des Portes (631m)
  7. 6 : km 8.25 - alt. 1,009 m - Pic des Mouches
  8. 7 : km 14.15 - alt. 931 m - Croix de Provence
  9. 8 : km 14.54 - alt. 863 m - Intersection under the priory
  10. 9 : km 18.16 - alt. 356 m - Turn left onto the GR9. Towards the - Cause (rivière)
  11. 10 : km 18.61 - alt. 371 m - RD 10 road
  12. 11 : km 19.72 - alt. 423 m - Entrance to Vauvenargues
  13. S/E : km 20.54 - alt. 415 m - Gouirand car park

Notes

  • No water source. Bring 2 litres per person.
  • Beware of the heat and wind!
  • Hiking boots are mandatory.

Worth a visit

Between Vauvenargues and Aix-en-Provence, you can go for a walk on the Barrage du Bimont.

Always be cautious and plan ahead when you're outdoors. Visorando and the author of this route cannot be held responsible for any accidents occurring on this route.

The GR® and PR® markings are the intellectual property of the Fédération Française de Randonnée Pédestre.

Reviews and comments

4.8 / 5
Based on 29 reviews

Reliability of the description
4.8 / 5
Ease of following the route
4.7 / 5
Route interest
4.9 / 5
User 25233422

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Dec 06, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

I did this superb route over two days because it is quite long, especially the ridges at the end, which are hard on your ankles, so we were delighted to be able to rest when we arrived at La Croix. In the morning, the long trail is very pleasant, allowing you to start the day at a leisurely pace. However, you really need to pay attention to the weather! If it rained the day before, I wouldn't recommend it, as the rocks were very slippery and, honestly, it wasn't pleasant at all.
Otherwise, there are no particular difficulties on the route. Just at La Croix and just after Pic des Mouches, there are two or three passages with chains, but if it's dry, they're easy to navigate! I recommend setting off early in the morning to make the most of the day, and also choose the time you do it carefully, as Sainte Victoire is a very popular area and gets very busy, especially around the Priory refuge. There is a water source at the Priory, but the water is not drinkable (bring filter tablets). I think it's too difficult to describe as very difficult.
I highly recommend it! Just keep an eye on the weather ;-)

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Les chéris d'amour
Les chéris d'amour

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Dec 29, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Great hike, the route isn't very difficult as indicated. There are chains in one place to help you continue, but there are no particular difficulties apart from perhaps the distance and, above all, the fairly rough and very stony path, which is hard on the ankles

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LIONEL13118
LIONEL13118
• Edited:

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Dec 24, 2024
Reliability of the description : Not used / Not applicable
Ease of following the route : Not used / Not applicable
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Thank you so much for sharing. I did the hike in the opposite direction with crazy winds. Doing it this way avoids having to descend above the priory during the tricky section with the smooth rocks.

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Biquette13
Biquette13

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Sep 27, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

It is more enjoyable to do this route in the opposite direction, as the descent via the GR is not particularly interesting.
It's a fairly long hike, so allow a whole day, but there are no technical difficulties, so I think the "difficult" rating is exaggerated.
On the ridge, you just need to hop from one rock to another; the section with chains is only a few metres long.
I did this hike in spring, autumn and winter, and my fondest memory is of walking in the snow under a blue sky.
The landscape is magnificent.

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mexidoc
mexidoc

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 19, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : Yes

What a beautiful way to make a looped crest!

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vero.A
vero.A

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Jun 17, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

The hike is superb! Many thanks to the author of the post.
The view of Sainte-Victoire comes into view when you reach the ridge, and it's a great moment with a 360° panorama of the entire region!
The route is well marked and the descent requires you to tighten your shoelaces if you want to keep your toes healthy
The priory is worth a quick stop, especially when it's over 28 degrees, and the two goats that have made their home at the cross are very friendly.
A real treat!

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ArnaudFou
ArnaudFou

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Apr 11, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Magnificent hike. Long and demanding in mild weather, very beautiful but a little windy at the top. What a pleasure to finally see the view from Sainte Victoire. The most difficult part is between Pic des Mouches and Croix de Provence due to the difficult terrain, which is very uneven with lots of rocks sticking out of the ground like obstacles that you have to constantly navigate around, which your toes will complain about after three hours. It is important to stay on the trail, otherwise you will have to put in extra effort. Be careful at the Prieuré, where the rock becomes very slippery on the descent, as if it had been polished. The descent from the Croix seems tricky, but I think that's mainly due to the fatigue accumulated up to that point. The route is extremely easy to follow. Very few people on the trail. No vertiginous passages. Highly recommended.

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rere
rere

Overall rating : 3.7 / 5

Date of your route : Jan 19, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★☆☆ Average
Ease of following the route : ★★★☆☆ Average
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Hike completed on 19/01/24
A very beautiful hike with stunning 360° views. Truly breathtaking. You can eat (and even sleep) at the priory.
The passage over the ridges can be challenging but nothing insurmountable.
Contrary to what is stated in the description, water sources are available (provided you have a filter bottle). These water sources are located at the priory, when you cross La Cause, and there are numerous water sources available in the village of Vauvenargues.
I don't think the rating "extremely difficult" is justified; "difficult" is more appropriate, as there are only two very easy short sections with exposed footing.
In short, this hike is highly recommended despite a route and signposting that can be approximate at times

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Emmanuel84
Emmanuel84

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Apr 10, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★☆☆ Average
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : Yes

Trip taken in April. I would advise against this in hot weather as there is no shade on the upper part of the route. The climb starts off gently along a track; be sure to stay on the main track until you reach the tarmac road. Do not take any of the tracks that branch off from the main road. After one or two sharp bends on the tarmac road, the climb is steep but quick, taking about an hour. When you arrive at Pic des Mouches, there are quite a few people there at lunchtime. I found the crossing between Pic des Mouches and Croix de Provence (about 6 km) quite challenging, even though it is relatively flat, as the terrain is very uneven. You have to watch where you put your feet at all times, as the rock is very rugged! The view is breathtaking. Follow the GR signs carefully to avoid unnecessary delays and straying from the most comfortable path. After the Croix de Provence, there is a long, very long steep descent on a concrete and tarmac track in places, followed by a somewhat tedious climb back up to Vauvenargues. All in all, it's a truly magnificent walk. Allow a good 7 hours, including short breaks.

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running13
running13

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Oct 15, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Route completed on Saturday 15/10/22, on a beautiful autumn morning.
Apart from a few hunters encountered before the ascent of the Pic des Mouches (so remember to take fluorescent clothing next time :-(
No particular difficulties, the route and explanations are clear, no risk of getting lost.
I did it in hiking/trail mode in just over 3½ hours. At this time of year, 1 litre of water was enough (I had brought an extra litre just in case)

Thanks to everyone for sharing and for your comments.

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pastorelli
pastorelli

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Apr 17, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : Yes

We did the hike yesterday, following your guidebook to the letter, and it was perfect! The signposting along the way is also excellent. The views are impressive without ever being dizzying. At this time of year, the ground is covered with heath daffodils, it's absolutely magnificent! I highly recommend this loooooong walk, but perhaps not for people with knee or ankle problems as the terrain is very uneven...

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marieclaire
marieclaire

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Feb 09, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

We did this hike today but in the opposite direction, starting from the Venturiers car park (on the right about 1 km before reaching Vauvenargues): we climbed up the Venturiers trail to the Croix de Provence, which was quite steep but not particularly difficult.
The entire section along the ridges is magnificent, and the signage has been recently updated, so we had no trouble following the trail, especially with the frequent cairns.
The descent from the Pic des Mouches to the Col des Portes (marked with a red line) is very nice and not too hard on the knees.
We made our way back to the car park via the DFCI track marked in white on the IGN map. Although there are no signposts, it's pleasant and relaxing, especially at the end of the hike when there are still nearly two hours of walking left. What's more, you get a view of the entire ridge you've covered in the afternoon.
In total, it was 26.5 km in just under 7 hours, not including breaks.
The only downside for me was the section just before the Pic des Mouches with chains and extremely slippery rocks, which I'm not comfortable with, but fortunately it was very short

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Randotriathlon
Randotriathlon

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 05, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Bring plenty of water in summer

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Got L.
Got L.
• Edited:

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Oct 11, 2019
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

Superb hike. However, be sure to bring enough water (2 litres is the bare minimum). The trail can be technical in places with difficult sections where you have to hold on to chains anchored in the rock for better grip on the particularly slippery rock, regardless of the time of day: we are on the north-facing side! The rewards of the Pic des Mouches and the Croix-de-Provence, but also all along the ridge (Bau des Vespres, etc.) were well worth the effort. Don't miss the magnificent Garagaï cave that plunges into the granite, shortly before the Croix on your left! Enjoy your hike!

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Aimrifle
Aimrifle
• Edited:

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 15, 2019
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good

A fantastic hike. We set off at 8 a.m. and arrived back at 5 p.m., taking time to picnic and chat with the locals. I highly recommend extending the hike to the priory for a picnic and to enjoy a beautifully restored area sheltered from the wind (arrival at around 1.30 p.m.).
The last slope on the paved road isn't very pleasant, but the hike is well worth it.
Good luck to everyone!

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