From Les Cantilènes to the Grand Couloir

Circular loop around La Marbrière. A challenging and demanding route, sometimes straddling the line between hiking and light climbing.
Route involving a west-to-east traverse of Sainte-Victoire via high-altitude paths and, at times, completely off-trail. Pas de l’Oppidum and Pas du Chat are also on the itinerary.

07/11/2024: Hikes temporarily inaccessible: the black and green routes on Sainte-Victoire are closed by municipal order due to rockfalls. See practical information.

Details

1136434
Creation:
Last update:
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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 8.45 mi
  • ◔
    Duration according to the author: 6 hrs 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Extremely difficult

  • ⚐
    Back to start: Yes
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 4,652 ft
  • ↘
    Descent: - 4,623 ft

  • ▲
    Highest point: 3,314 ft
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 1,440 ft

Photos

Description of the walk

Access: coming from Beaureceuil or Le Tholonet, drive through Saint-Antonin-sur-Bayon via the D17.
Park in the car park known as ‘Les 2 Aiguilles’, 500m to the right after the Maison de Sainte-Victoire, on the outskirts of Saint-Antonin-sur-Bayon.

(S/E) At the car park, facing Mont Sainte-Victoire, cross the D17 road. Immediately on a large flat rock, there are several signposts, including one indicating the start of the route to the climbing sites, marked by a Blue Triangle with a climber painted on it.

Take the path which then climbs due north towards the foot of the cliff. The track climbs through red earth. After 600m, cross the Brown Marked path and turn right onto it.

At the first junction, after about 170m, leave the Brown trail and continue to the left. Keep following the Blue Triangle markings. You will soon reach the cliff face and the numerous climbing routes, the names of which are marked in blue. Follow the path that runs along the cliff face heading west (left).

Continue to the “Rognures” sector, marked in blue on a rock, and carry on to the right of it. The path joins the base of two rocky gullies. The one on the left is easier to navigate and cross (the passage on the right requires a bit more dexterity).

At the end of the gully, there is another ledge to cross, leading onto a limestone slab. Cross the overhanging slab. A transverse crack provides footholds.

(1) Arrive at the foot of the "Pas de l'Oppidum". A long vertical then horizontal chain allows you to cross the slab. Continue the climb due north through boxwood and small scree slopes, following the cairned path. You will then quickly reach the Black-marked trail.

(2) At the junction with the "Black" trail, take the obvious scree slope opposite, which climbs straight north towards the "Pas du Chat". No markings. The slope is very steep. It is best to climb on the sides of the scree slope to find better grip and stability.

At the end of the scree slope, climb the slab using the vertical chain provided to cross the "Pas du Chat". Continue the ascent via another climb passing next to a tree, where you will find a second chain.
Reach the ridge quickly via a series of short, easy climbs.

(3) On the ridge, turn left towards the Croix de Provence via theGR®9. White/red markings.

(4) You will arrive in front of the Grotte aux Hirondelles. Black and green markings. Descend carefully (smooth, weathered rocks) and cross the cave. At the cave exit, pass by the Gouffre du Garagaï. Continue the descent following the black and green markings. Take care, as these are easier to spot on the ascent than on the descent.

Continue left (eastwards) on the black-marked path (the green “Forcioli” path branches off to the right).

(2) After 300m, cross the scree slope leading to the Pas du Chat again, and continue straight on along the path. Black markings. Follow the Black path eastwards for about 300m until you reach a large cairn with a black elbow-shaped mark painted on a rock.

(5) Climb straight north up the slope dotted with boxwood to reach a small pass at the top right, which provides access to the Vire des Cantilènes. It is advisable to climb through the fissures and ledges on the left-hand side rather than crossing to the right over the limestone slab. After this ledge, a well-marked path emerges, which is marked with cairns. Cross the Vire des Cantilènes from west to east, passing above the cliff. The traverse ends in a small, wooded and steep gully.

The exit from the gully leads to a large cairn and a promontory offering a beautiful view. Next, climb the slope to the left (north) via another rocky section, then continue the steep ascent to quickly reach the ridge.

(6) At the exit of the Cantilènes, continue to the right towards the east along the Saint Victoire ridge via theGR®9. White/red markings.

This descent is entirely off-trail and there are no markings.

(7) After about 450m, look for a small gap. No markings. Descend due south, hugging the rock face on your left. After 100m, a gap appears (with vegetation behind it); ignore this and continue the descent due south. Continue hugging the rocky ridge until it disappears at a sloping limestone slab.

On the very slight ledge at the end of the rocky ridge, turn left through the small crack. There is a small opening where you can abseil down using a rope (10m required) or use the crack to climb down the small ledge.

At the foot of the ledge, follow the overhanging limestone slab eastwards for a few metres, then turn right to reach the rocky outcrop to the south. Follow this downwards. You will emerge above a scree slope; descend this to reach the foot of the basin formed in the valley.

At the foot of the scree slope, turn left to rejoin the rocky face. Climb up and follow it through the sparse vegetation. Swing round to the other side and head straight eastwards. Pass the foot of the Garagaï des Raspinas; there is a cairn here.

Continue straight on, climbing up the ridge. You will find yourself above a scree slope. Enter it and descend to the bottom.

(8) You will emerge above La Marbrière. Then continue left (eastwards) on the brown-marked path. After 350m, you will arrive near the Pas du Clapier.

(9) At the foot of the Pas du Clapier, continue straight on along the brown-marked trail, still heading east.

(10) After 1.1 km on the path, look out for a small descending track branching off to the right. No markings. The route follows the bed of a dry stream in places. After a 350m descent, you’ll come out onto a wide track. Continue straight down. Then ignore the path on the left that appears shortly after 100m.

At the next fork after 350m, continue left onto the wide track, then after 150m turn left again (the D17 is nearby) onto the track suitable for vehicles. The terrain begins to climb slightly again. At the next fork, continue left and ignore all the small side tracks you encounter, staying on this wide track, which generally heads east. At the fork with two wide tracks, continue on the track on the right.

(11) After about 400m, you’ll come across a small path crossing the wide track. Take the path on the left, which climbs upwards. Red markings. Follow the red markings until you reach the Baudino Refuge. The path climbs all the way.

(12) At the Baudino Refuge, nestled on a small wooded plateau, look for the brown-marked path on the right. Go round the back of the refuge then cross a rocky section made up of huge limestone boulders. Cross a narrow “triangular” passage formed by two boulders.

After about 10 metres, a cairn-marked path starts on the left. Leave the brown-marked trail and head left. The slope rises quite steeply. Pass a large, clearly visible cairn, ideally situated on a rocky outcrop, and cross over to the other side (due north).

Once you reach the flat section of the path, follow it as it leads you to the upper part of a scree slope. To the left, just before the end of the Grand Couloir scree slope, the east-west-facing ledge appears.

This ascending ledge is equipped with a cable serving as a handrail. The exit from the ledge is followed by two short vertical sections with chains. After these sections, continue along the cairn-marked path through small scree and boxwood until you reach the ridge.

(13) Follow the ridge to the left (heading west) and try to stay as close to the cliff edge as possible without blindly following theGR®9, which runs further below, so as to fully enjoy the view. Cross the Plan de la Crau.

(14) After about 1.5 km, a discreet cairn with green markings indicates the entrance to the gap and the path leading down. Two green markers in the gap show the way forward. Take the path on the left, which descends steeply. Follow the green markings.

The descent from the Pas du Clapier is quite challenging; in less than a kilometre, you’ll reach the brown-marked path that runs along the massif from east to west. Several short ledges must be negotiated during the descent, through gaps or fissures. Good handholds make the descent safe. Green markings are present at regular intervals. Arrive at the bottom (a large cairn marks the start of the green markings).

(9) Turn right onto the Brown-marked trail. Arrive above La Marbrière.

(8) Continue the descent along the path. Brown markings. After 550m, continue along this path to the right at the track junction. At the next junction, after about 500m, take the small path on the left. Climb up to the Grotte du Cheyenne. Continue descending south-westwards to reach the D17 county road. Turn right and follow it for 200m to return to the Deux Aiguilles car park (S/E).

Waypoints

  1. S/E : mi 0 - alt. 1,440 ft - Deux Aiguilles car park
  2. 1 : mi 0.77 - alt. 2,044 ft - Oppidum Pass
  3. 2 : mi 0.89 - alt. 2,434 ft - Black trail junction
  4. 3 : mi 1.05 - alt. 3,035 ft - Pas du Chat
  5. 4 : mi 1.26 - alt. 3,035 ft - Grotte aux Hirondelles
  6. 5 : mi 1.7 - alt. 2,477 ft - Vire des Cantilènes
  7. 6 : mi 1.96 - alt. 3,153 ft - Cantilènes route
  8. 7 : mi 2.22 - alt. 3,209 ft - Off-piste descent
  9. 8 : mi 2.74 - alt. 2,201 ft - Former Marble Quarry
  10. 9 : mi 2.92 - alt. 2,428 ft - Pas du Clapier
  11. 10 : mi 3.56 - alt. 2,244 ft - Path descending to the right
  12. 11 : mi 4.82 - alt. 1,680 ft - Path on the left leading uphill
  13. 12 : mi 5.55 - alt. 2,608 ft - Refuge Barthélémy Baudino
  14. 13 : mi 5.86 - alt. 3,264 ft - Grand Couloir route
  15. 14 : mi 6.82 - alt. 3,248 ft - Brèche du Clapier
  16. S/E : mi 8.45 - alt. 1,440 ft - Deux Aiguilles car park

Notes

Details of trail closures following rockfalls on the website: [https://www.amisdesaintevictoire.asso.fr/index.html]

A hike featuring exposed and challenging sections. Many sections are secured with chains or cables; a pair of via ferrata gloves may be useful.

From 1 June to 30 September, access to the massif is regulated and may restrict access hours (or even prohibit access entirely). See the link

No water sources.

The climbs are on the south face, so they are relatively sheltered from the mistral but, depending on the time of year, subject to intense heat (significant heat reflection).

This route is not recommended if the ground is damp or in wet weather; the limestone is slippery in places and can become very dangerous.

Worth a visit

Priory of Sainte-Victoire.
Croix de Provence.
Former marble quarry.
Cheyenne Cave.
Bimont Dam.

Always be cautious and plan ahead when you're outdoors. Visorando and the author of this route cannot be held responsible for any accidents occurring on this route.

The GR® and PR® markings are the intellectual property of the Fédération Française de Randonnée Pédestre.

Reviews and comments

5 / 5
Based on 4 reviews

Reliability of the description
5 / 5
Ease of following the route
5 / 5
Route interest
5 / 5
Rhesous
Rhesous

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Oct 11, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Thanks to the author of this walk for this off-the-beaten-track route.

Although several people have already said it, I’ll add my two cents: DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS WITH JUST ANYONE OR AT ANY TIME. There are some fairly exposed sections, and above all, it’s easy to get lost. Indeed, even if the GPS track is reliable, you can still get lost… Particularly at point 7.

I couldn’t find the gap to get down to the scree slope and took another route instead (two holm oaks; doable if you’re not afraid of heights).

I agree with one of the previous reviews: unless you want to add extra elevation gain – which was my case today – it’s better to stick to the brown trail at point 10. Even though the descent was quite lovely, the climb back up is a slog (steep slope).

A quick tip: whilst descending the scree slope to get to point 8, I took a wrong turn and followed a path branching off to the left, which was fairly flat and ran beneath holm oaks. I think it leads all the way to Baudino, but I might be mistaken as I didn’t actually take it. Two advantages: 1, you don’t descend too much (again, if you’re not aiming to tackle a lot of elevation gain) and 2, AND THIS IS THE MAIN ONE, you avoid going onto the scree slope, which is the habitat of the Provençal sandwort (a protected plant that only grows in Provence...). If you do take the scree slope, stick as much as possible to the orange-marked areas where people have already passed.

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Granwazoo
Granwazoo

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Dec 02, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A lovely route and a spot-on guidebook.

Point 7, which avoids having to descend twice via Le Clapier, is very well described, but the route is slow and imprecise, the terrain is difficult and there are no cairns.
From point 9, I prefer to switch to climbing the lovely section at point 10 (instead of descending it and avoiding the loop around La Torque via the lower route at point 11), then continuing on to Baudino and the main couloir.

Thank you

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richardmouren
richardmouren

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Jan 29, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

This route features two particularly tricky sections: the Oppidum, with the chimney leading up to it, and the Chat (the approach to which, over very unstable and steep scree, is gruelling – not recommended in hot weather). The rest of the route presents no major difficulties for those accustomed to a bit of strenuous scrambling. Don’t hesitate to bring a length of rope and some carabiners. The route can be hard on the joints as a large part of it involves walking over rocks that become quite tiring on the legs after a while. That said, there are some truly beautiful moments – the Cantilènes are as magical as ever. Spotted a herd of mouflons on the ridge.

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RickyH5
RickyH5

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Mar 15, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

An exceptional but very, very tricky course, just as the description said...
I managed it with flying colours (there’s no one like yourself, is there?)
It doesn’t really surprise me that there are no comments. Suffice to say I thoroughly enjoyed myself, but I’m going to sleep well tonight... Right, I’ve extended the route a bit.

I struggled a bit to find the start, which cost me an extra kilometre on the return leg... It was the map that basically set me straight; it’s always better with a map, but I hadn’t taken it out... When I read ‘Rognure sector’ on the rock, I quickly realised my mistake.
Obviously I took the chimney on the right... You shouldn’t have provoked me. (just kidding)
I now know my limits when it comes to climbing hikes; go just a bit beyond that and I can’t make it... Very tricky; I even think it’s significantly trickier than those on the Forcioli. As I was getting past it, I thought to myself, I hope they’ve left the chains there, otherwise I’m in big trouble... The chains are definitely there, phew!
Further up, I exit via the “Pas du Chat” as planned, no problem.

I push on to the Croix de Provence, just for fun, then turn back to take the Grotte aux Hirondelles.
At the large cairn, heading towards Les Cantilènes... Again, really tricky, but I recognise the balcony. Always a lovely spot.
I missed the little crack at point number 7 which lets you descend, let’s say… in a flash!
I’ll come back to that…

I arrive at the Pas du Clapier and finally decide to head straight for the Grand Couloir and descend it. I’ve done it both ways before, so it’s no problem for me. It has to be said that since this morning there’s been a gale-force wind...

Baudino Refuge, brown route. My curiosity compels me to head off to the famous point 7, but starting from the bottom, of course... Blimey, it’s already tricky going up, so just imagine coming down it...
It makes for a decent elevation gain in the end, over 2000m according to the GPS. After an Ibp correction of 150 HKG, 1640m elevation gain and 18km, but with the reliability of the original ‘C’ route. What stands out most is the complexity of the route, which is very well described.
I’ve already come down via the black route this morning; I’m going to go the extra mile and head down via the Pas du Berger. The Prieuré was closed due to the outbreak...

In the meantime, a superb route – certainly not one for the faint-hearted!

Thanks for the guide.

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