The Valbois valley and Castel Saint-Denis

Parking behind the church in Chassagne-St-Denis or on Rue du Castel (return route). Various markings: yellow-blue, yellow-red, white-red, and mountain bike markings in places.

(S/E) Set off with your back to the church (towards the ‘Ruines’ sign), passing the public weighbridge until you reach the cross marking the first fork.

(1) Continue to the right along the Grande-Rue. On leaving the village, carry on along the small road closed to vehicles (except authorised vehicles), crossing peaceful countryside with a fine view of the Monts d’Ornans, and in particular, to the far left, the village of Malbrans, crowned by its statue of the Virgin Mary. Continue in this direction until the next fork.

(2) Turn left onto the stony track, leaving the signposted route behind, but you will soon come across MTB signposts (route 28). Continue to the edge of the forest and a hunting lodge.

(3) Continue left along the forest track (towards Château Saint-Denis) to reach, after a stretch through the forest, a stony path at a signpost for Sur Saint-Denis.

(4) Turn left towards Chassagne on this stony path for about a hundred metres until you reach a cleared area on your right. Look out for the small path on the right, passing a signpost somewhat hidden in the greenery and running alongside the cliffs, which leads you to the Rocher de Valbois viewpoint (unsecured), offering a superb view of the Ravin de Valbois Nature Reserve and the Castel Saint-Denis, Cléron and its castle, dominated by the Rocher de Colonne.

(5) Leave the viewpoint via the path that runs along the cliffs to return to the signpost.

(4) Continue left until the nearby fork and turn right up the path closed to motor vehicles, which leads you to the castle entrance and the ugly pylon that spoils the view of the entrance. Go to the foot of the pylon for a view of the Ravin de Valbois, then explore the ruins, going as far as the foot of the keep.

(6) Cross the footbridge at the foot of the keep to the end of the promontory and the viewpoint over the Val de Cléron. Retrace your steps a few paces and take the staircase, venturing deep into the heart of the ruins. You emerge at the foot of the walls.

(7) Go round the promontory to the right. At the tip, climb back up to the keep via the log staircase, following the base of the cliffs, and return to the foot of the keep.

(6) Take a look at the sign showing a reconstruction of the castle. Head down to the left towards the archway, known as the Porte aux Ânes, then continue to the right towards Ornans. 150 metres further down, at the fork, take the path on the left down to a stony track.

(8) Head up to the left until you reach the edge of the woods and look out for a path on the right, bordered by a wooden fence.

(9) Head down to the right along this nature trail, which winds through the pastures and offers beautiful views of the valley and its limestone cliffs. As you go, say hello to the donkeys, the hillside’s maintenance workers. There are a few sections with gates.

(10) Enter the woods via a final passage and begin the steep climb up this beautiful wooded hillside, carpeted with wild garlic, which leads you to the foot of the cliff at the bottom of this small valley. Follow the rocks to the right and, at the nearby fork, climb left, passing over the cliff. You’ll reach some pastures and a wooden gate in the fence, leading to a gravel track.

(11) Turn right to return to the original fork.

(1) Turn right to reach the church and the car park.

The route includes ledge paths and unsecured viewing points. The paths are rocky and slippery in places. Sturdy footwear is essential and the use of walking poles is recommended. Don’t forget to bring your binoculars.

(4) The Ravin de Valbois Nature Reserve offers superb views over the Valbois valley and Castel Saint-Denis, Cléron and its castle, dominated by the Rocher de Colonne.

(6) Castel Saint-Denis is one of the largest fortified castles in the Haut-Doubs. Situated on a rocky spur separating the Loue valley and the Valbois ravine, it has been occupied since the 10th century. The first mention of a castle dates from 1083. In 1166, Pierre de Scey, appointed guardian of the County of Burgundy by Frederick I, Holy Roman Emperor, had the Saint-Denis tower built.

Cléron Castle
This fortified house was built in 1320 to protect the ford across the Loue, through which carts laden with salt passed. The salt road linking Besançon to Salins-les-Bains ensured the region’s prosperity in the Middle Ages.

The Mirror of Scey
In a green meander, the River Loue transforms into a mirror reflecting the old mill and the ruins of Castel Saint-Denis.

Notre-Dame du Chêne
TheNotre-Dame du Chêne chapel was built in 1803, following an apparition of the Virgin Mary. On the morning of 3 April 1803, a 13-year-old girl, Cécile Mille, encountered the Virgin Mary. No one believed her, even though the girl exclaimed, “It’s true, as true as the sun shines.” On 15 August 1803, Cécile, her two sisters, her father and a friend discovered a small statue of the Virgin Mary in the “Notre-Dame oak”, which had been placed there long ago and forgotten. After a lengthy investigation, Cardinal Mathieu, Archbishop of Besançon, officially confirmed the authenticity of the events. He requested that a chapel be built. Cécile Mille died at the age of 46 on 13 July 1835. She is buried in Cléron cemetery, at the church gate.

The Tacot Museum
In the early 20th century, metre-gauge railways were built to open up our countryside. These little trains, pulled by steam locomotives, then diesel engines and sometimes electric motors, were known as ‘tacots’. My elderly mother used to tell me that, when the hill was too steep, passengers would get off to let the little train catch its breath and make the climb!