The Lost Ark and Pic Saint-Victor

This is a sunny hike between heathland and rock formations, best avoided on hot days. Hike through the heathland, which combines natural geological, plant and man-made formations: arches, mills, sheepfolds, a fountain, a 12th-century church, a hermitage and a lookout point. The goal is to reach the 360° viewpoint over the Corbières at the top of the Ermitage Saint-Victor.

Details

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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 16.79 km
  • ◔
    Average duration: 5h 55 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Moderate

  • ⚐
    Back to start: Yes
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 378 m
  • ↘
    Descent: - 374 m

  • ▲
    Highest point: 420 m
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 207 m

Photos

Description of the walk

Parking at the eastern entrance to Fontjoncouse, on Avenue de Saint-Victor.

(S/E) From the car park, take the steps leading to the path overlooking the car park. On your left, you will see a passage between the houses; take it. Cross Avenue Saint-Victor and take the path to the wash house opposite, between two low walls bordering vegetable gardens. Pass in front of the wash house dating from 1895. Then follow Rue de la Source to the left for a few metres (there is a fountain a little further south).

(1) Turn right, then left onto Rue du Château. You will arrive in front of a 12th-century gate, behind which a beautiful stone staircase leads to the Church of Sainte-Léocadie. Go around the church on the right, join the road that leads to the cemetery and follow it to the right for a few dozen metres.

(2) Turn left (west) onto the path that climbs towards the Moulin des Amarels. Join a concrete road and follow it to the left. On the flat section, don't miss the mill 20 metres from the road on the right.

(3) Turn back and take the road on the right (south), which becomes a carriageway, and continue to a crossroads.

(4) Continue right towards the Lost Arch (sign). Follow the marked and cairned path, first to the southwest. Then turn northwest (follow the markings) and reach the arch, which was recently discovered and highlighted in 2016.

(5) Turn back to the previous junction.

(4) Turn right onto the carriageway heading south.

(6) At the fork, turn right and continue south-west, then south.

(7) In a hairpin bend to the right, take a small path that starts on the left towards Les Palats (sign). This path takes you across the Plateau des Monédières (the mountains where the first rays of daylight appear), and through the heath you will see the remains of the intense pastoral activity that followed the forest (imposing sheepfolds).
Follow this path winding through the heath to the Gallo-Roman lime kiln (remains of the forestry and wood energy industry and construction of the Roman agricultural estate "Les Palats" (the Palaces), where a sign will tell you how it worked.

(8) When you reach the door of the kiln, you are on the path that continues (follow the cairns) until you reach a track suitable for vehicles.
Turn left and continue along the path that descends towards the Col de Guira. Descend towards the vineyard on your left and follow it until you reach the D123 road

(9) Take the road on the right for 20 m, cross it and turn left to follow the track that starts after the bridge towards the south, then towards the east.
You will be walking along a track suitable for vehicles and will pass a hunters' hut on your left. 80 m after this hut, you will see a very old tree on your left (perhaps 200 years old or more). It is a "phillyrea latifolia" (broad-leaved phillyrea) from the Oleaceae family. This tree grows very slowly, so it is certainly several centuries old.

(10) At the fork, near a building, turn left and follow the north-east path, then east, which leads to a road.

(11) Turn right and take the road towards Saint-Victor. Turn left before a row of yew trees and start climbing (there are shortcuts that cut some of the corners). There are no difficulties until you reach the Hermitage, where you will find two orientation tables, a geodetic marker, a watchtower and a telephone pylon (you can't miss it).

(12) To descend, you have to take a tricky passage against a small solid building (you will need to use your hands), which is signposted "Retour". The path winds through a tall forest that shades the stony path. The trail joins another trail that climbs up to the Hermitage: ignore it and continue downhill until you reach a square on the right with a letterbox decorated with a wooden sculpture.

(13) Follow the D123 to the left. After 300 metres, turn right and follow a path that climbs up to the plateau and joins the old path that used to pass through a vineyard, now fenced off. Follow this path as it winds and climbs gently until you reach a carriage road at the top.

(14) Follow the track for 260 metres and you will find the start of a path marked by a large cairn on your left.

(15) Turn left and walk about 100 m south. This track leads to the pastoral shelter known as the "Grotte du Beurre" (Butter Cave).

(16) This shelter was used by the first shepherds of Fontjoncouse. It is a partially filled sinkhole covered by heath. This means that you only see it at the last moment, so be very careful when approaching. The sinkhole is on your right as you walk along the path: there is a high risk of falling. The path passes 0.5 m from the edge of the hole.
A torch is useful.

There is a beautiful view of the Mediterranean, Pic Saint-Victor and the Pyrenees with Canigou.

Turn back to the previous crossroads.

(15) Turn left and head towards Fontjoncouse. Pass the honey farm (the road becomes paved). Turn left onto the main street, pass a restaurant and return to the car park where you started (S/E).

Waypoints

  1. S/E : km 0 - alt. 250 m - Parking on Avenue de Saint-Victor
  2. 1 : km 0.31 - alt. 259 m - Fontaine-source des Joncs
  3. 2 : km 0.5 - alt. 279 m - Street leading to the cemetery
  4. 3 : km 0.77 - alt. 313 m - Amarels Mill
  5. 4 : km 1.04 - alt. 316 m - Towards Arche
  6. 5 : km 2.09 - alt. 307 m - Arche Perdue
  7. 6 : km 3.85 - alt. 315 m - fork
  8. 7 : km 4.6 - alt. 312 m - Towards Les Palats
  9. 8 : km 5.46 - alt. 326 m - Lime kiln - Head towards the &gt - Col de Guira (308m)
  10. 9 : km 6.59 - alt. 262 m - D123
  11. 10 : km 7.94 - alt. 310 m - Crossroads
  12. 11 : km 8.98 - alt. 259 m - Barras stream
  13. 12 : km 11.34 - alt. 420 m - Ermitage St Victor
  14. 13 : km 13.4 - alt. 210 m - D123
  15. 14 : km 14.95 - alt. 301 m - Plateau
  16. 15 : km 15.24 - alt. 294 m - Cairn, on the left
  17. 16 : km 15.39 - alt. 295 m - Caune du Beurre
  18. S/E : km 16.78 - alt. 250 m - Parking on Avenue de Saint-Victor

Notes

A hiker has recorded the GPS track between points (7) and (8), so the route is now reliable.
Sunny hike (little shade), avoid during hot weather.
Wander through the pretty village of Fontjoncouse.
Water is available at the wash house and at the spring.
A picnic at the top of the Ermitage is recommended (beware of the wind).

Worth a visit

Arche Perdue.
12th-century Sainte-Léocadie Church.
Presbytery (former castle).
Lime kiln, water mills, windmills.
Various chasms.
Honey house.

Note about visiting thesecond kiln.
When you are at (8), cross the track in front of you and find a drailhe marked by cairns, a path (1 km) leading to thesecond oven (at the bottom of the Plaine de Palats). Return by the same route, or if you know your way around, via the Plaine de Palats (numerous remains of tegulae, bricks and facing) and the Col de Guira.
Human presence in the Plaine de Palats has been documented since Neolithic times, as there are three megalithic tombs in the area.
Note: a description of a hike that visits the four dolmens (or five, including an enigmatic stone?) of Fontjoncouse is currently being prepared.

Reviews and comments

4.2 / 5
Based on 30 reviews

Reliability of the description
4.2 / 5
Ease of following the route
3.9 / 5
Route interest
4.4 / 5
Fa54
Fa54
• Edited:

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Apr 20, 2025
Reliability of the description : Not used / Not applicable
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

A pleasant hike through heathland with little shade. Fontjoncouse is very nice, with a 180° view of Pic St Victor and two orientation tables. We found the arch (don't be discouraged by the length of the path). We think we also found the pastoral shelter at the bottom of the valley. Again, don't be discouraged by the track and go a little further than the route. We missed the track twice and followed the main path instead (between 9 and 10 and at point 12), so you need to pay attention...

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Jean.Taverne
Jean.Taverne

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Oct 27, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Very pleasant hike. The village where the hike starts is very pretty. I hesitated between rating it 7 or 8. The antennas at the summit spoil the view a little, but the descent is pleasant even though it seems we didn't take the right path! Despite searching, we couldn't find the shepherd's shelter. Perhaps it has been completely covered up? Thank you to the author.

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denishofmann9
denishofmann9

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 29, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

You have to be determined to get there, as the signs are a bit unreliable and the cairns are randomly placed. But what a treasure you discover when you find this lost arch...

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VALMON G
VALMON G

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Apr 01, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

A pleasant hike with no particular difficulties. The climb to the hermitage is a little tough but on paved ground. Be careful at point 13, as the cairn is no longer there and the start of the trail between the vegetation and the vineyard fence is difficult to see.

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fran09
fran09

Hello,
I don't understand your message.
Thank you
Françoise

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monifer@sfr.fr
monifer@sfr.fr
• Edited:

Have a shorter route to the arch. Thank you

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anizette
anizette

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Nov 30, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

it was good

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pascale78
pascale78

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Jan 23, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Very pleasant hike!

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egao
egao

Thank you for your answers

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henri57
henri57 ★
• Edited:

Hello,

Because I don't really like having my phone in my hand when I'm walking,

Especially because the goal is not to be glued to your smartphone. But when hiking, when you stop to take stock, it's useful to have a tool that allows you to answer the following four questions simply and immediately:

1. Where am I?
2. Where did I come from?
3. Where should I go?
4. Which route should I take?

but thanks for the info, I didn't know this app existed. I'll install it and try it out

So check out the link below, everything is there.

Visorando app instructions

See you soon

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egao
egao
• Edited:

Why use an app designed for car navigation when Visorando provides, in addition to descriptions and IGN maps at a scale of 1:25,000, virtual signposts: a GPS app.

Because I don't really like having my phone in my hand when I'm walking, but thanks for the info, I didn't know this app existed. I'll install it and give it a try

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henri57
henri57 ★
• Edited:

Hello,

i went hiking without a GPS or map, just with the directions provided here. I got lost

The description and the IGN-Visorando map are inseparable

so I ended up finding the road with Google Maps...

Why use an app designed for car navigation when Visorando provides, in addition to the description and the IGN map at a scale of 1:25,000, virtual signposts: a GPS app.

A tool, offered free of charge by Visorando, allows you to validate waypoints and thus clear up any doubts about your direction.

it's a shame, because the Arch and the Tree are superb.

In that case, you can also try this hike.

The sublime Tour de Fontjoncouse

See you soon!

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egao
egao
• Edited:

Overall rating : 3 / 5

Date of your route : Jun 21, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★☆☆ Average
Ease of following the route : Not used / Not applicable
Route interest : ★★★☆☆ Average
Very busy route : No

Hello,

I did the route today and found the directions unclear in some places (I was hiking without a GPS or map, only with the directions provided here). I got lost twice, especially at the end after the tree, where I couldn't understand or find the fork in the path, so I ended up using Google Maps to find my way back to the road... It's a shame, because the Arch and the Tree are beautiful.

(5): Turn back to the junction with the carriage road, but which junction? Perhaps it would be a good idea to add "junction point (4)" because I got lost there even though it seemed obvious.

(10): At the fork, near a building... but I never saw a fork or a "building". What building? What does it look like? Anyway, I continued along the carriageway, which turned into a tarmac road, and after a while I realised I had missed the path.

Also, wear long trousers, because the circuit is not very busy, and if you make the same mistake as me and go there in shorts, your legs will get scratched by the thorny bushes that are everywhere.

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henri57
henri57 ★
• Edited:

Hello,

@Binoche19
@fran09

Thank you both.

The modified route between points (7) and (8) has been validated.

Visorando is indeed a participatory website

Best regards

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Binoche19
Binoche19

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Feb 20, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★☆☆ Average
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

Here is the reading taken with my GPS to modify in 5 and 6

https://www.visorando.com/randonnee-/290...

have a good day

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