La Combe Paradis

A large circular route starting from Fontjoncouse, crossing the limestone plateaus (Selve and Blaquière) and the "secret" Combe Paradis, taking the old Gallo-Roman road from Donos to Fontjoncouse.
The route is picturesque, following old paths that have been lost and rediscovered, with magnificent views of Mont Saint-Victor, the Mediterranean and La Clape, as well as the borders of the Hautes Corbières and the blue line of the Pyrenees.
A very wild route (Combe Paradis), home to golden eagles.

Details

4357502
Creation:
Last update:
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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 14.00 km
  • ◔
    Average duration: 5h 05 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Moderate

  • ⚐
    Back to start: Yes
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 376 m
  • ↘
    Descent: - 369 m

  • ▲
    Highest point: 351 m
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 140 m

Photos

Description of the walk

The start is in the car park of the village of Fontjoncouse coming from Portel (D323).

(S/E) Enter the village on foot via Avenue Saint-Victor and pass the town hall (on your left) and a famous restaurant (on your right). Continue along the main street until you reach Grand'place, which is a crossroads in the village.

(1) Turn right onto Grand Rue. Continue along Chemin de la Planelle for 50 metres and turn left onto a path that crosses a meadow at a small grey cement house (on your left). This path climbs up to the plateau overlooking the village and leads to a track suitable for vehicles, offering beautiful views of the village and the castle church.

(2) Turn right and follow this track eastwards for 330 metres. When you reach a crossroads of carriageways, leave the roads and continue on the track north-eastwards, then due north after
1 km. Walk to the end of the track for about 2 km, where you will find a crossroads and a vineyard on your right.

(3) Turn right, north-east, onto the old Gallo-Roman road from Donos to Fontjoncouse. Walk 1 km, mainly north. The path makes a hairpin bend and descends in wide loops towards Combe Paradis and the Donos stream.

(4) The path leads to a wide track which you follow for about 50 metres northwards, then turn left onto a carriage track which you follow for about 300 metres.

(5) You will arrive at a dirt esplanade, where several paths meet. Take the path (an old track overgrown with vegetation) on the left heading south for about 850 metres. This path, which overlooks the stream valley, climbs steeply before descending towards the stream to cross it.

(6) Cross the ford easily (be careful, as the water level varies). Continue along the path on the other bank for about 50 metres. You will come to a steep firebreak. From here, the area has been disrupted by the creation of firebreaks since 2018. Follow the firebreak on the right for about 50 m: on your left, you will find a path starting in the vegetation. Follow it for 40 m until you reach a new firebreak, which you cross to continue along the path for 250 m. You should arrive near a vineyard, on a good track suitable for vehicles (access track to the Cabane du Berger farm) (Pouzoles).

(7) Turn left onto this track and follow it for about 460 metres. At an intersection, turn right.

(8) Pass the entrance to the Cabane du Berger farm (marked Pouzoles on the IGN map). Continue along the track, which climbs steeply towards the large plateau to the west.

(9) Reach the Blaquière plateau at an altitude of 341 metres. Superb 360° view. Continue along this track, which is initially flat and then descends gently to a crossroads.

(10) Take the path on the left and follow it for 550 m through the pine forest to another crossroads (signposted "Fontjoncouse"). Then take the path on the left and continue for about 1 km to the Col de Poursan.

(11) Continue downhill on the track (ignore the paths that join it).

(12) At the crossroads at IGN elevation 298, continue straight ahead on the old path from Fontjoncouse to Caraguilhes for about 500 m. You will reach a track near a fenced vineyard on your right. Walk along this vineyard (outside the fence) on your right for 70 m. Find a path that is the old road from Fontjoncouse to Caraguilhes and follow it for about 300 m. You will come out near another vineyard (on your right) and a track suitable for vehicles. Follow this track for about 300 m until you reach the fork you passed on the way there.

(2) Continue straight ahead along the path that takes you back to the village via Chemin de la Planelle and Grand Rue.

(1) At the Grand'place, continue straight ahead along Rue de la Source.

(13) Visit the Fontjoncouse spring and its wash house. Then follow Chemin du Lavoir to reach Avenue de Saint-Victor and the car park where you started (S/E).

Waypoints

  1. S/E : km 0 - alt. 251 m - Village car park
  2. 1 : km 0.31 - alt. 257 m - Grand’place
  3. 2 : km 0.61 - alt. 289 m - Travelling route
  4. 3 : km 3.03 - alt. 304 m - Start of the Roman road
  5. 4 : km 4.99 - alt. 150 m - Roman road from Donos to Fontjoncouse
  6. 5 : km 5.38 - alt. 142 m - Crossroads
  7. 6 : km 6.27 - alt. 147 m - Fording
  8. 7 : km 6.79 - alt. 181 m - Fork in the road
  9. 8 : km 7.5 - alt. 187 m - The Shepherd's Hut
  10. 9 : km 8.61 - alt. 342 m - 360° panorama
  11. 10 : km 9.57 - alt. 297 m - Path through a pine forest
  12. 11 : km 11.01 - alt. 351 m - Poursan Pass
  13. 12 : km 12.02 - alt. 299 m - Old path from Fontjoncouse to Caraguilhes
  14. 13 : km 13.66 - alt. 258 m - Fontjoncouse spring and wash house
  15. S/E : km 14 - alt. 251 m - Village car park

Notes

A very wild route, a true sanctuary for golden eagles, on old tracks and paths that have been lost and rediscovered.
Very discreet and biodegradable markings: cairns. Feel free to maintain them or add more to improve orientation.
Bring a pair of binoculars.
Walking sticks.
IGN map and compass.
Bring a bin bag to take away your rubbish and any you may find along the route.
Be respectful, close gates behind you.

Worth a visit

Landscape on Mont St-Victor, the Mediterranean, Port-la-Nouvelle and La Clape. (between (2) and (3))
Golden eagles nest in the escarpments of the "tronquettes" and "terres rouges" and are easy to spot when they are in flight.
The Roman road from Donos to Fontjoncouse. (between (3) and (4))
(Point (6)) The Donos stream and its clear pools invite you to take a dip. (The source of the Doux.)
Exceptional 360° panorama (point (9)); to the east, the sea; to the west, the Hautes Corbières; to the north, the Montagne Noire and Pic de Nore; to the south, the Pyrenees.
La Cabane du Berger: production of elixirs and ointments from the wild nature of Combe Paradis. (8)
Miellerie de Fontjoncouse (Fontjoncouse rosemary honey has been renowned since the Middle Ages. (Selve plateau).
Fine organic wines, several winegrowers in the village.

Reviews and comments

4.1 / 5
Based on 10 reviews

Reliability of the description
4.3 / 5
Ease of following the route
3.7 / 5
Route interest
4.4 / 5
Cosmosrando
Cosmosrando

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Feb 17, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

Between points 2 and 3, simply follow the power line to find your way, which is shown on the map.

Before crossing the stream at point 6, the path is narrow (trousers recommended) but passable up to the ford. It was dry that day, so there was no difficulty in crossing it. I should point out that it is not wide and is shallow. Two paddles are there to help.
The path that climbs up the opposite bank is slightly offset to the left. On the other side, you climb this path (for a few dozen metres) and at the top you arrive at a wide track.

It's generally easy to follow the route, but keep an eye on the trail and the adjacent paths. I did it without a GPS, using a zoomed-in paper map.

Beautiful 360° view, magnificent landscapes.
Thanks to the author.

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Marie-Paule Fabre
Marie-Paule Fabre

Overall rating : 3 / 5

Date of your route : Jun 11, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★☆☆ Average
Route interest : ★★☆☆☆ Disappointing
Very busy route : No

We had downloaded the route onto our mobile phone, which was fortunate.
An interesting route across the plateaus. However, on the descent and in the Combe, the route was overgrown with vegetation.
The ford (without water!) was very difficult to cross; not recommended.

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Flonet
Flonet
• Edited:

Overall rating : 3.3 / 5

Date of your route : Jun 11, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★☆☆ Average
Ease of following the route : ★★☆☆☆ Disappointing
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

This hike is not marked... it's difficult to follow just the description, we didn't have a GPS, there are several markings that you shouldn't follow... we didn't take the right path and ended up walking 8 km more! But it was beautiful! We enjoyed it even more!

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fran09
fran09

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Sep 25, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★☆☆☆ Disappointing
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

We went hiking today but had to turn back just before the ford. The wilderness had taken over and despite using pruning shears to clear a path at a rate of 1 metre per minute, we gave up when we reached the ford (point 6): there was too much water and no path on the other side.
The next group will need to bring machetes and plan a day of pruning.
Otherwise, the route is wild with beautiful views.

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Marc Vandevelde
Marc Vandevelde

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Jun 01, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★☆☆ Average
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A very beautiful hike, quite long with beautiful views of vast landscapes devoid of human habitation. Occasionally passing through wild areas.

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bzzz bzzz
bzzz bzzz

Thank you for your appreciation and encouragement.
Yes, it is possible to shorten the hike and return to Fontjoncouse more quickly.
Between points 7 and 8, you will come to a crossroads of forest tracks. Continue south along the track, climbing up the Combe Paradis and the upper valley of the Donos stream. At elevation 222, take a discreet path that winds through the pine forest: it climbs up the valley to "Cuchalou" (you will arrive very close to an apiary), from where you will find the logging tracks that will take you back to Fontjoncouse.

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DDMONTREAL
DDMONTREAL

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Oct 01, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

One option to shorten the hike, which may be a bit long for some, is to turn back at the shepherd's hut and return to Fontjoncouse. (I don't know if this shortcut is well known.)
In any case, thank you to whoever described the hike.

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lesvegas
lesvegas

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Sep 10, 2021
Reliability of the description : Not used / Not applicable
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Nice hike.
It's a shame that the trails are rarely used, making them difficult to navigate in places.
Next time, we'll bring a machete to clear the undergrowth.
Otherwise, no difficulties, beautiful views.
We think GPS tracking is essential.
Thank you for this trip.

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general11
general11

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 04, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

Great walk in the Corbières. Despite our best efforts, we didn't find the angels in paradise.
The GPS tracking was spot on, but it was difficult to find the way out of the village and the path between points 5 and 7 wasn't really maintained. The ford at point 6 was a bit chaotic, but the hike isn't signposted, which is a shame as it would benefit from being better frequented.

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bzzz bzzz
bzzz bzzz

Thank you for sharing, especially with the beautiful photos on your blog.
You are right about the name "Combe Paradis" in the strict sense: it is the upper part of the Donos stream valley.
However, locally, the name "Combe Paradis" is used to refer to the area up to the "Plaine de Donos". The upper part of the combe is occupied by an old path that is worth restoring.
I will try to remedy this by suggesting a walk that follows the entire length of the path.
Kind regards.

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sogeco31
sogeco31

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Jun 14, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A very beautiful, relatively challenging route (with a steep climb halfway through).

My report with photos at https://sogeco31.blogspot.com/2021/06/fa...

Note that the route does not actually pass through Combe Paradis, but it seems possible to get there by crossing the Cabane du Berger farm or by taking a path that the route ignores shortly before.

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Monier66
Monier66

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Jan 28, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A very pleasant trail, with one difficulty: a steep ramp to climb before eating.
However, the DFCI trail marking has damaged one point on the route, creating a step of one metre twenty. You need to be flexible to climb it. One section where you have to cross a stream requires good balance, otherwise you'll end up getting wet.
The weather did not allow us to see the eagles, but we will have to try again. The route is sheltered from the wind, except for two or three passages.
There are beautiful views of the plain and the sea, and you can even see Canigou.
A lovely outing, thank you for this route.

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