The sublime tour of Fontjoncouse

Fontjoncouse is enclosed by four large limestone plateaus: to the north, the Selve plateau; to the south, the La Mulgue plateau; to the west, the Devès and Monedières plateau; to the east, the Pic Saint-Victor (the highest point in the municipality). This hike takes you across these large plateaus to discover the wonders of botany and geology, as well as the historical traces left by humans from the Neolithic period to the Middle Ages.

Details

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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 18.07 km
  • ◔
    Average duration: 6h 15 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Moderate

  • ⚐
    Back to start: Yes
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 388 m
  • ↘
    Descent: - 381 m

  • ▲
    Highest point: 421 m
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 209 m

Photos

Description of the walk

The starting point is the car park in the village of Fontjoncouse, on the right-hand side of the D323 when coming from Portel.

(S/E) Enter the village on foot via Avenue Saint-Victor, passing the town hall (on your left) and then a restaurant (on your right).

(1) Turn left, then right, and continue along the main road, Avenue de Coustouge.

(2) At the last house in the village (on the right-hand side), just before the village exit sign, turn left onto a path that runs alongside a meadow. This leads to a poorly maintained asphalt road. Follow this road straight ahead (west-southwest) for about one kilometre. Look for the sign on the left indicating the Fontjoncouse climbing site.

(3) Then turn left onto the path that climbs (south-east) at the foot of the cliffs of the climbing site.
You will see a small canyon; climb up it heading south-east. A chain helps you to cross a sloping slab. Inside the canyon, continue on the left, following the path that climbs upwards. At the top, to exit the canyon, turn left heading north-east. Reach the Devès plateau, following the path and cairns carefully.
Be careful not to approach the edge of the cliffs, as there is a risk of falling.

(4) Pass under the Arche Perdue and continue along the path through the heath towards the south-east.

(5) You will come to a farm track; follow it to the left. You will reach a crossroads with a track suitable for vehicles (on the left, you can return directly to the village if necessary).

(6) Follow the track on the right, heading south. Stay on this track for 1.4 km and ignore the turnings on the left. You will reach a crossroads at an elevation of 311 metres.

(7) Take thesecond path on the left (signposted "Palats"), heading south-southeast. This is the old Monédiaire path. Follow it for 900 m to cross the Monédiaire plateau. Pass some ruined sheepfolds, then a Gallo-Roman lime kiln. You will reach a track. Follow it to the left to descend to the Col de Guira.

(8) Descend to the right towards the south-west, towards a vineyard and ploughed fields. This is the Pallats plain: in the centre, you will see a tumulus topped by a dolmen. At a fork, turn left towards the dolmen, taking the path that leads to the vineyards.

(9) Take the path on the right between the vineyards to reach the Dolmen de Palats. Retrace your steps.

(9) Continue along the path on the right (east-southeast). After about 400 metres, the path turns left. Shortly afterwards, at a three-way junction, take the path on the left. You will reach a fenced vineyard; go around it on the left. Then squeeze between two vineyards and you will come out in an abandoned meadow (magnificent view of the Saint-Cristol plain on the right and the summit of Saint-Victor topped with antennas).
Please note: at the top of this meadow, there is an apiary for harvesting rosemary (only in spring).
Cross the meadow straight ahead (north-northeast), heading towards a "wall" of broom in which a passage has been created. Continue and cross the Saint-Cristol stream (source).

(10) After crossing the stream, first turn left then right and continue to follow the track and cairns in a north-easterly direction. You will come to an abandoned vineyard on your left. Pass it and join the farm track that leads to it. Follow this track to the D123 road (be careful, this track is full of fossils).

(11) At the end of the path, you will reach a carriage road. Turn right and continue for 220 metres until you reach the D123 road. Cross the road to the right and take the carriage road opposite (dirt track). Enter the Saint-Cristol plain, site of an ancient Visigothic chapel. Pass in front of a hunters' hut.

(12) A hundred metres or so further on, note a very old tree on the left (perhaps 200 years old or more) and continue along the path. Further on, you will see the entrance to a rally company (no entry). Continue along the carriage road through the vineyards, ignoring the paths on the left and right.

(13) At elevation 297, the road makes a hairpin turn to the right and begins the descent into the Saint-Victor valley (concrete road). You will reach a crossroads.

(14) Turn right, heading south, for 200 m, pass the sign for "Bergeries de Saint-Pierre" and turn sharply left, heading east, onto the renovated and asphalted farm track that climbs up to the Hermitage of Saint-Victor.

(15) At the top, where the Hermitage of Saint-Victor is located, head north to take the downhill path (small sign marked "retour"). This 2 km long path follows the ridge called "La Cadorque", which runs roughly north-northwest. Pass through an area with a sharp limestone pavement, continue along the path until you reach the D123 road. Follow this road westwards, cross the small stone bridge over the Barras stream and continue for 70 m.

(16) Turn right onto a dirt track heading north. Continue for about 270 m until you come to a fenced vineyard. Go around it on the left for 10 m, following the fence, then turn completely left to climb up some rocks. (This detour leads to the other end of the fenced vineyard).

Reach a path leading to the final plateau of the hike: the Selve plateau. Follow this path for about 800 m until you reach a carriage track. Turn left towards the west and follow this track for 260 m.

(17) Turn left onto a path marked by a large cairn. This path leads to the pastoral shelter known as "Caune du Beurre" (100 m to the south), a shelter used by the first shepherds of Fontjoncouse.

Caution: This shelter is a partially filled chasm, covered by heath. This means that you only see it at the last moment, so you must be very careful when approaching it. The chasm is on your right-hand side as you walk along the path: there is a high risk of falling. The path passes 0.5 m from the edge of the hole. A torch is useful.
Return to the track.

(17) Continue south-west for about 650 m until you reach a crossroads. At the crossroads, turn left, heading south-west, onto the path towards Fontjoncouse.

(18) Pass in front of the Fontjoncouse honey farm, continue straight ahead and enter the village via the main street (Avenue Saint-Victor).

(1) Turn left and you will reach the starting point (S/E).

Waypoints

  1. S/E : km 0 - alt. 252 m - Car park at the entrance to the village via the D123.
  2. 1 : km 0.27 - alt. 256 m - Crossroads of the circular loop
  3. 2 : km 0.59 - alt. 266 m - Ancient path of Bellongue
  4. 3 : km 1.75 - alt. 246 m - Path going uphill (south-east direction)
  5. 4 : km 2.08 - alt. 300 m - Arche Perdue
  6. 5 : km 2.57 - alt. 320 m - Intersection
  7. 6 : km 3.14 - alt. 316 m - Crossroads
  8. 7 : km 4.6 - alt. 312 m - Crossroads
  9. 8 : km 5.54 - alt. 308 m - Col de Guira (308m)
  10. 9 : km 6.22 - alt. 275 m - Access to - Dolmen de Pallats
  11. 10 : km 7.39 - alt. 281 m - Left-right at the stream
  12. 11 : km 7.79 - alt. 264 m - Fork in the road
  13. 12 : km 8.13 - alt. 265 m - Remarkable 200-year-old tree
  14. 13 : km 9.65 - alt. 298 m - Turn right
  15. 14 : km 10.29 - alt. 259 m - Turn right at the fork, heading south.
  16. 15 : km 12.73 - alt. 420 m - Saint-Victor Hermitage
  17. 16 : km 14.91 - alt. 210 m - Turn right at the fork onto a dirt track.
  18. 17 : km 16.37 - alt. 294 m - Access to - Caune du Beurre
  19. 18 : km 17.46 - alt. 285 m - Fontjoncouse honey farm
  20. S/E : km 18.07 - alt. 251 m - Car park at the entrance to the village via the D123.

Notes

Walking sticks are very useful;
Compasses and maps;
Electric torch.

Please respect all historical sites and refrain from digging. Look and take photographs.
Dolmens are burial sites and should be respected.
Discover the flora and respect it!

Taste the famous honey of Fontjoncouse!

To contemplate all the wonders of this "pais", you have to love it and stay.

Worth a visit

Fontjoncouse

Arche and Roc climbing area

A very wild and unspoilt environment. Here you will find very rare flora, typical of mountain ranges: Anthyllis Montana, Brassica Montana, Hormatophylla Macrocarpa, and Dianthus Deltoïdes. All these flowers are protected, some of them listed on the red list of endangered species.

Trail across the great limestone plateaus

Tabular morphology: for example, Mont Redonnel (opposite you at the Col de Guira) can be circumnavigated via the Palats and St Christol plains. Erosion has excavated the soil around Mont Redonnel to such an extent that the Jurassic Thoarcian terrain is visible (numerous fossils).

Between and Ruins of sheepfolds bearing witness to the pastoral activity that succeeded the pubescent oak forest in the Neolithic period;

Gallo-Roman lime kiln, evidence of the presence of the forest (wood for energy);

Plaine de Palats: the plain was the site of an ancient Roman property (the Palace). In the ploughed fields, you will find numerous tegulae, facing bricks and other amphora necks. Archaeological excavations have yielded finds that are now on display at the Coustouge Museum.

However, the site has been occupied since at least Neolithic times, as evidenced by the tumulus in the centre of the plain, topped by a dolmen.
Palats Dolmen: this is the most famous dolmen in the Aude region.

The large pentagonal capstone (2.65 x 2.15 m) is still in place, resting on a 1.30 m high side pillar. About 10 m to the north is a monolith (pillar?) that has slipped from the tumulus.

Between points (6) and (8), you travel through space and time (1 km/5000 years).
Between the Palats dolmen and the lime kiln: 5,000 years of history separate them!

Fossil trail between (10) and (11) you are walking on Lower Jurassic terrain (-200 million years) with fossils of terebratulidae (mussel-like) and belemnite rostra (cuttlefish) of the acrocoelites genus.

(12) Very old Phillyrea latifolia tree, approximately 200 years old. This tree grows very slowly, so it is certainly several centuries old (it began growing during the reign of Louis XV).

(15) Summit of Saint-Victor: Hermitage over 1,000 years old (dissident monks from Fontfroide), two orientation tables.

(17) The view is beautiful, overlooking the Mediterranean, Pic Saint-Victor and the Pyrenees mountain range with Canigou.
Caune du Beurre: a pastoral shelter dating back to the Neolithic period.

Fontjoncouse honey farm: Fontjoncouse honeys have been renowned since the Middle Ages!

Botanical information signs here and there along the hike.

Reviews and comments

4.5 / 5
Based on 7 reviews

Reliability of the description
4.3 / 5
Ease of following the route
4.6 / 5
Route interest
4.6 / 5
bergpaden
bergpaden

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Mar 24, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A great walk with the arch, the lime kiln and the dolmen. We took a detour just to avoid the undergrowth.
A walk to do in spring, with magnificent flowers.

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Cosmosrando
Cosmosrando

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Feb 05, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

For the lost arch, when you arrive just before point 4, there is a large hollow rock on your right. Take the path downhill to your left (do not go straight ahead) (be careful, steep slope and cliff edge). Ten metres further on, you will arrive at the Lost Arch. Pass under the arch and climb up the other side, then continue straight ahead.

Before No. 10, follow the meadow straight ahead. The passage (in the wall of broom) is at the end of this meadow (halfway up). It is clearly visible (I have put up two red and white banners) and leads straight ahead 10 metres further on to the small stream (1 metre wide and dry). Immediately after this small stream, turn left at a 90° angle and after about 15 metres turn right and continue straight ahead (with the road in sight on your right, which you must follow parallel).

At point 15, to descend (with your back to the chapel door), go 5 metres straight ahead and then turn right at a 90° angle. Pass to the right of a small building, where you will find a small path leading downhill. Follow the yellow markings on the ground (the sign for the return route seems to have disappeared).
Do not take the path further down.

Thanks to the author, beautiful hike, beautiful and diverse landscape, lots to see.

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bernard coulomb
bernard coulomb

Overall rating : 4.5 / 5

Date of your route : Jun 17, 2024
Reliability of the description : Not used / Not applicable
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

This hike provides a good introduction to this vast area of the Corbières, where plateaus, valleys and hills are covered with tall, dense scrub that is difficult to penetrate. Unless you want to endure constant scratches on your legs, it is best to wear long trousers! The paths narrow as human traffic becomes less frequent.
There's no problem following the route on GPS, even if the abandoned vineyards forced us to zigzag between the broom bushes for a few dozen metres.
Although the flowering season is almost over, there were some nice surprises with this magnificent blue catananche, a beautiful chicory, also blue, and then santolines, brunelles and other lychnites....

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bzzz bzzz
bzzz bzzz

Thank you for your entirely justified comments. Between 9 and 10, you have to cross an abandoned meadow and a stream where the path disappears due to lack of use. I have placed cairns there, but you really need to use the Visorando app to find the way. If the vegetation is too overgrown, you can join the RD 123 asphalt road and reach the St Cristol plain and point 12.
It should be noted that this hike, which crosses the DEVES plateau (arch, lime kiln), will be closed in the near future. A public utility inquiry will be opened in October 2023 to build the largest photovoltaic power plant in France... 62 hectares!

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marie fanjeaux
marie fanjeaux

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Sep 01, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A very beautiful hike with varied landscapes and points of interest.
We encountered some difficulties between points 9 and 10. The vegetation had overgrown the path and the vineyard was partly abandoned. The wall of broom was impenetrable. After crossing the completely dry stream, which was also overgrown with vegetation and thorns at this time of year, we reached the D123 road and point 11. From there, we were able to find the fossil trail (which has almost disappeared) and the path we had taken in the opposite direction. We cleared the undergrowth as best we could, placed cairns on the path and tied a handkerchief to a bush to mark the way. We also used an abandoned beer can and a blue cartridge to mark the path. I'm sorry I didn't take these items with me to throw them in the bin. In any case, this will allow us to return and lead a group of hikers through this sublime landscape, which is aptly named.

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O l g a
O l g a

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Feb 05, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A superb hike with lots of "curiosities" and a very detailed description that will capture the interest of walkers.
Even if there is sometimes some hesitation, there is no chance of getting lost or going wrong, and if necessary, you can retrace your steps for a few dozen metres; it's all part of the fun.
Well done and thank you!

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Ilmano
Ilmano

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Nov 20, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

Hello,
I'd like to come back to point 3, where it should say that after the slab, on a flat section, you should turn "sharp left" towards the cliff, onto a path that is not very visible. This would avoid taking the well-marked path opposite, as everyone tends to take it because it's easier, and then have to turn back.Same comment as Bayard at the "mur de genets" (broom wall) where some markers must have disappeared, but we managed to find our way.
Before point 16, when rejoining the track, we returned to Fontjoncouse by following the sign to the left to shorten the hike, as the wind had been "driving us crazy" all day (over 60 km/h).
We still managed to miss the "lost arch"... the wind had probably blown it away... finding a sign at point 6 indicating it behind us...
A wild walk with beautiful views at the Pic; perhaps best done in the other direction to avoid the long climb up the road to the Pic.
Thank you.

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bzzz bzzz
bzzz bzzz

Thank you, Bayard, for your appreciation and comments regarding point 9.
I will reconsider my description of the route to see where the confusing instructions might be.
In general, you should walk following the cardinal directions or azimuths (this is a habit I have from my time as a sailor).
I hope this didn't spoil your hike too much.

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Bayard
Bayard

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : May 14, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

A beautiful, quite original walk with varied sections. We took the wrong path several times, but were always able to get back on the right track. Here are the tricky points:
- At point number 3, after the sloping slab, we continued straight ahead, distracted by this slightly tricky passage. We quickly found ourselves tangled up in the undergrowth! We turned back and found the right path, which starts immediately to the left after the chain.
- Point number 9, where we lost the most time. The "fenced vineyard" is actually the very first fence you come across (the vineyard is not directly visible). I won't go into details, but we got confused and made two round trips^^
- At point 9 again, the "broom wall" can be found with the help of the red tape. You have to continue straight across the meadow and not turn to the right.

As a general rule, follow the cairns! Great hike, thanks to the author.

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