Granges d'Astau - Lac du Portillon

Starting from Les Granges d'Astau, there is a long climb with some steep sections, made more pleasant by the presence of several lakes. Lac d'Oô and its inn, and Lac d'Espingo in its magnificent setting are ideal places to stop for a break. After Lac du Saussat (pronounced Sa-ou-sat), the much smaller Lac de la Coume de l'Abesque marks the start of the steep, winding climb that leads to a plateau dotted with smooth rocks and small lakes, and then to the Jean Arlaud refuge.

This walk is part of a multi-day hike: Haute vallée d'Oô - Pic Perdiguère et Pic des Spijeoles

Details

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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 10.28 km
  • ◔
    Average duration: 7h 15 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Difficult

  • ⚐
    Back to start: No
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 1,499 m
  • ↘
    Descent: - 69 m

  • ▲
    Highest point: 2,567 m
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 1,128 m

Description of the walk

From Bagnères-de-Luchon, follow the signs for Col de Peyresourde on the D618. After Saint-Aventin, turn left onto the D76. Pass through the villages of Castillon-de-Larboust and Oô, then follow the Neste road of the same name up to the terminus at Granges d'Astau, where there is a large car park that is often full in high season.

GR®10White and Red markings

(S/E) Leave the car park and take the wide track heading south, an old path created for the construction of the Lac d'Oô and Lac du Portillon dams. Strange as it may seem, this is still the D76. Initially flat, the road then climbs steeply, winding its way up a series of partially stone-paved hairpin bends before continuing along the hillside to the stone bridge that leads to the Lac d'Oô inn, located on the right on its moraine lock.

(1) Do not take this road, but continue straight on the path that passes near the Lac d'Oô refuge

(2) and arrive at Lac d'Oô.

(3) The path starts off gently sloping, then takes a series of tight hairpin bends with a rapid change in altitude. The slope then remains steep, with the Col d'Espingo pass in your sights, marked by a wooden post visible from afar but which seems to never get any closer.

No markings

(4) Leave the GR®10, which branches off to the left towards Superbagnères, and continue straight ahead to begin the climb up the last section, which is crossed by a short series of hairpin bends on a stony path. Arrive at Col d'Espingo.

(5) Enjoy the magnificent view of Lac d'Espingo. In summer, herds and hikers' tents complete the picture. If you don't want to stop at the refuge, continue straight ahead on a gentle slope towards Lac Saussat, the northern tip of which you will soon see.

(6) Take the narrow footbridge over the outlet, walk along the lake and begin the climb up the Cirque d'Espingo on an increasingly steep slope. Reach the Coume de l'Abesque.

(7) Cross the footbridge and continue towards a large rocky outcrop, which you can cross by veering to the right to walk along its base, then to the left to go around it. Continue the climb via a new series of very tight hairpin bends, which are the last difficult section before you reach the rocky plateau that is home to several small lakes and the old refuge, which you will soon see on your left.

(8) Look for the very discreet start of the miners' path on the right, which you will take to climb Pic des Spijeoles, and continue straight ahead over the rounded rocks to reach the new refuge on the right, at the foot of Tusse de Montarqué and near the dam (E).

Waypoints

  1. S : km 0 - alt. 1,128 m - Parking - Les Granges d’Astau
  2. 1 : km 3.21 - alt. 1,489 m - Footbridge - Neste d'Oô (rivière) - Affluent de l'One
  3. 2 : km 3.35 - alt. 1,504 m - Near - Refuge du Lac d'Oô
  4. 3 : km 3.43 - alt. 1,513 m - Lac d'Oo
  5. 4 : km 5.46 - alt. 1,905 m - Leaving the GR®10
  6. 5 : km 5.71 - alt. 1,968 m - Refuge d'Espingo
  7. 6 : km 6.34 - alt. 1,923 m - Lac Saussat
  8. 7 : km 7.78 - alt. 2,095 m - Coume de l'Abesque footbridge
  9. 8 : km 9.49 - alt. 2,491 m - Start of the miners' trail
  10. E : km 10.28 - alt. 2,567 m - Refuge du Portillon (Jean Arlaud)

Notes

A long climb that requires patience and stamina. Several very steep sections.

The route is obvious, with some sections clearly marked by the GR®10trail.

High-top hiking boots are recommended due to the numerous rocky sections. Walking poles will also be very useful.

Refreshments and meals are available at the Lac d'Oô inn, the Espingo Refuge and the Jean-Arlaud Refuge.

Espingo refuge

Jean Arlaud or Portillon refuge

Worth a visit

Always be cautious and plan ahead when you're outdoors. Visorando and the author of this route cannot be held responsible for any accidents occurring on this route.

The GR® and PR® markings are the intellectual property of the Fédération Française de Randonnée Pédestre.

Reviews and comments

4.9 / 5
Based on 10 reviews

Reliability of the description
4.9 / 5
Ease of following the route
4.9 / 5
Route interest
4.9 / 5
lucas_gndr
lucas_gndr

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Nov 30, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Route completed on 10 November 2025 with the aim of spending the night at the Portillon refuge (please note, unmanned at this time of year) to climb Perdiguère the following day. The weather is magnificent, conditions are very good even though there is snow above 2,000 metres due to the snowfall in recent days. I set off from the car park at around 11:15 a.m. There were lots of people on the first part of the trail to Lake L'Ôo. I set off with a heavy rucksack (provisions for two days, sleeping bag, crampons, ice axe, etc.) and wearing my heavy boots. There were no real difficulties until Lake Espugnettes, where the first traces of snow appeared. The snow cover gradually increased but did not cause any difficulties until Coume de l'Abesque (approx. 2100m). Once I had crossed the metal footbridge, I put on my crampons and completed the last part of the hike to the refuge. Even with a fresh trail, the conditions were not the easiest. I arrived at the refuge at around 4.45pm. There are between 10 and 15 of us spending the night there. However, the conditions for Perdiguère the next day are forecast to be difficult. A rope team we meet at the refuge tells us they have given up after spending a day trudging through the snow at 3,000 metres. The next day, I decide not to attempt the ascent (being solo, it is impossible to rope up on certain passages) and to descend calmly. Be careful, with the wind and the night-time refreezing of the tracks, progress proved to be quite difficult. The worst part was on the icy tracks from the previous day (some of which were impassable even with alpine boots). A big point of caution for those descending from Les Espugnettes: the climb is fine, but the descent is as slippery as an ice rink! I had to go off-piste through the powder snow to get some grip. In short, it was an exceptional hike, especially with the snowy landscapes and winter sun, but you need to be well equipped and used to walking on this type of terrain, and set off early to avoid being caught out by the early sunset at this time of year.

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Oxygène d'altitude
Oxygène d'altitude

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 31, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : Yes

I'm doing this hike again, which I didn't finish in August 2023. I started earlier to enjoy the cooler weather and get a head start. I was expected at the Portillon refuge for the night. Even though I did it an hour faster than planned, it's very demanding, very steep in places, and requires some mountain experience. The trail is well marked and signposted all the way to Lake Saussat. There are plenty of cairns to help show the way along the rocky switchbacks. Don't hesitate to break the hike up into stages. You can take breaks in the refuges, especially if you want to climb higher peaks. But you can also descend directly during the day.

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Laurent du haut de Pech
Laurent du haut de Pech

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Jun 21, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : Yes

A great classic, but beware of the difficulty level of the climb to Lake Óo. Contrary to popular belief, it is not a stroll along the seafront. The view is as superb as ever, but unfortunately late snowfields forced us to turn back near the Portillon Pass; crampons would have enabled us to complete the climb. Food for thought (even on the first day of summer, the mountains have surprises in store for us): always exercise caution. If you have any doubts about your abilities or the weather conditions, don't take any risks.

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fruit_des_bois
fruit_des_bois

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Mar 01, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : Yes

We did this hike in August 2023 with friends to Lake Portillon and it was really great! The hike isn't too difficult for the first two hours, but once you pass Lake Oo, it becomes very beautiful and challenging. We slept in tents at Lake Portillon, next to the refuge. It gets cold at night, so be careful. There's no way to get lost, as the paths are well marked. You do need to be reasonably fit to make it to Portillon Lake, but it's possible to stop earlier at one of the other lakes.

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Oxygène d'altitude
Oxygène d'altitude

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 13, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : Yes

I only did part of the route, namely up to the Espingo refuge, because after 3 p.m. it was too late to go all the way. Clouds were beginning to appear over the peaks. The hike is very beautiful, with the coolness of the forest and well-marked trails that are very well described on the information sheet. It is advisable to stay on the trail and avoid getting too close to the steep slopes around Lake Oo. Arriving at the Espingo refuge is an opportunity to take a break and admire the lake. But Lake Saussat tempts us to continue... Which I will do by starting earlier.

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alain29200
alain29200

Sorry for the inconvenience.
I'm not very familiar with your website and app.
You can delete my comments and my thread if it suits you.
I'm not here to cause trouble.
But since I was asked for my opinion, I gave it.

Best regards.

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TROUVE Jean-Jacques
TROUVE Jean-Jacques ★

As the author of the hike, I would like to point out that your comment has no place in the hike reviews. This is a dispute with the application.

JJ TROUVÉ

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alain29200
alain29200

Yes, I know, I saw it.
I don't know, though, if I've understood how to use it properly.
But paper maps and I aren't exactly friends.
I prefer GPX files, which I find much more practical and interesting.
But that's a personal choice.
It really limits my use of your app, as it's a paid feature.

Best regards.

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FLOCH
FLOCH ★

Hello,

If you do not wish to pay for an app, you can always print out the description and map.
This is free of charge.
Kind regards.

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CG2513
CG2513

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 10, 2022
Reliability of the description : Not used / Not applicable
Ease of following the route : Not used / Not applicable
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : Yes

The route from Granges d'Asta to Lac d'Eau is always very busy, as is the route from Lac d'Oo to Lac d'Espingo, but it is much less busy from Lac d'Espingo to Lac du Portillon (although we were not alone).
We camped at La Coume d'Abesque, where we were the only ones camping. Then we finished the climb and returned the next day. It took us well over 7 hours, including breaks.
Once past Espingo, there are no more markings. This isn't a problem until point 8, where from here on you have to feel your way a little to the refuge, which fortunately is visible.
Great weekend!

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tourdelossau
tourdelossau

We had to give up at Lake Oo... everything was blocked and the weather forecast and the Espingo refuge warden predicted very bad weather... we'll be back...
The guidebook is very good and the GPX file is very accurate... unfortunately only up to Lake Oo.
Best regards

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tourdelossau
tourdelossau

Hello. I'm going on this hike next weekend. I'll write to you when I get back.
Kind regards
Tour de Lossau

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rachel5017@gmail.com
rachel5017@gmail.com

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 19, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : Yes

The Portillon Lake is very beautiful.

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Peyo31210
Peyo31210

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Sep 01, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Hike as described, with some fairly steep sections. After Lake Espingo, heading towards Portillon, there are far fewer people. The round trip can be done in a day (allow 7½ hours without wasting time). The ideal plan is to climb up and spend the night at the Espingo refuge, then climb up to Portillon the next day.
Do this in clear weather.

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descamp jean luc
descamp jean luc

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 11, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : Yes

Beautiful hike with magnificent scenery
Lots of people on the way back, which was a shame

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