Bardenas Reales Desert – La Piskerra

After driving slowly along the desert tracks, you can park here, either along the path leading towards the mountain range or at the edge of the field, provided there is nothing growing there.

(S/E) From here, take the well-marked path heading north-east, aiming for an arch (which is actually a very basic hut) visible in the distance on a hill.

(1) It looks as though you’re facing a wall, but you’ll be able to enter the massif by going round the hill where the arch is situated. As you go round the hill, when the path starts to head south, you’ll come across some steps that are half-buried or have collapsed due to erosion of the ground beneath them. Simply follow these steps (which isn’t always easy) to reach the top of the hill where the hut stands. Even from here, you can enjoy a beautiful view of the entire desert.

Descend from this small mound on which the hut stands, either via the east-facing hollow between two ridges, or via the collapsed steps.

(2) Once you have descended into this small hanging valley, cross it in a general north-easterly direction until you come to a wall of ridges and gullies; choose the one that appears least steep, sometimes using your hands to brace yourself on both sides, until you reach a path on the upper plateau which will lead you to the foot of the Piskerra.

(3) From this point, follow a path through the scree that cuts across the Piskerra. There is just one more difficult section at a ledge of harder rock that has been less affected by erosion. Continue climbing until you reach the summit plateau, from where you can admire the landscape and the path you have just followed.

(4) For the descent, there are two options: the easiest is to follow the same route as on the way up. The second option is to descend via the scree on the other side, which is much more treacherous. In fact, at certain points there are breaks in the slope that are impassable on a hike, and you’ll need to find a viable route. Following the GPS track can help, but ultimately it’s of course up to you to decide on your route, and you shouldn’t hesitate to look for the best way through.

(5) You will now need to go round the Piskerra massif. Here too, there isn’t really a defined path, and you may occasionally have to take a few detours to stay on the main route. But you’ll be rewarded with views from every angle of this little mountain you’ve just climbed. This will lead you back to the path you took on the way up.

(3) Follow part of this path again, then leave it and head south-south-east. To find your bearings, head towards a striking natural pyramid, which you should leave slightly to your right. You might be tempted to climb this pyramid by following one of its ridges, but you’ll soon discover that between the plateau where you are and the pyramid, the terrain is heavily fissured.

(6) From this point, you’ll need to descend back down to the level of the desert plateau. To do this, head down to an intermediate plateau nestled between peaks. There is only one passage, and it is best to follow the GPS track to find it. It is a path that winds between the ridges and mini-passes formed by geological features shaped like cones with rounded summits. Then walk along a plateau carved out by rainwater.

(7) Leave the stream bed and head up to the right over some large humps, where you’ll find the path you’ll follow to a V-shaped notch, clearly visible in the rock face that blocks your view of the desert plain below.

(8) Cross the notch and descend the steep slope to reach the plain. Then follow the path which initially runs alongside a fairly deep canyon; you will then move away from it, following the boundary between two fields to reach the main track, which you take to the right to return to the starting point (S/E).

Bardenas Natural Park: tips and recommendations here.

• Warning regarding the route: due to ongoing and, in some places, very rapid erosion, the routes indicated may change from one year to the next and will only be accurate in broad terms. You may therefore sometimes need to make your own way and find your path amongst the scree or between the pyramids and other natural landforms you encounter. The OSM base map is very accurate and will be extremely useful.

• Furthermore, certain areas of the desert are off-limits during the nesting season for the birds that inhabit it (from February to the end of August). Make sure you check these dates before your trip on Frédéric Moncoqut’s website, Bardenas, which is full of useful information about this desert, or, if you’re already there, at the tourist information centre located on the main access road to the desert (the one leading from the village of Arguedas).

• Do not venture into the desert in wet weather (it is very slippery and there is a risk of being caught out by rising water levels in the beds of dry riverbeds).

• There are no sources of drinking water, so make sure you bring enough supplies.

• Although the walk is only a few kilometres long, you may lose time finding your way there and back, so do not set off too late, especially as you spend quite a bit of time on the track just to reach the starting point. It is forbidden to spend the night in the Bardenas Desert, and there are plenty of places to stay nearby.

• The Bardenas Desert is an exceptional place, and the opportunity to visit such a magnificent yet very fragile area is a great privilege granted to us by the Spanish authorities. Please therefore respect the regulations that have been put in place so that we may continue to enjoy access to this extraordinary space for many years to come.

• The truly unique geological formations and, on a different scale, the glass-like rock fragments that sometimes cover sections of rock like a mosaic.
• Flowers sometimes grow along the path amongst the rocks – always a surprising sight in the middle of such a dry place.
• The caves in the cliffs near the village of Arguedas (cliffs illuminated in changing colours at night).
• A few typical surrounding villages.
• The Bardenas Desert is vast, and whilst certain areas may be off-limits for a period, there are plenty of other walks to enjoy.