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(S/E) Set off from the SNCF station by taking the Cours Brillier opposite, which leads to the River Rhône. Stay on the left-hand pavement. You’ll pass the post office. When you reach the Cours de Verdun at Place des Allobroges, turn left and cross the central reservation diagonally to enter the public garden. Opposite you stands an imposing statue (Michel Servet – 1515/1553). Go round it on the left to see a particularly well-preserved section of a Roman road. Leave the public garden through the same gate, return to Cours Brillier and cross it to take the narrow Rue Boson opposite.
(1) This leads you to the foot of the steps of Saint-Maurice Cathedral. Take the time to climb the steps and step inside this imposing monument. The interior is striking, as the minimalist décor contrasts with the building’s sophistication.
Leave the cathedral, cross Rue Bozon and head towards the Rhône via Place Saint-Maurice (west).
Cross the river via the footbridge leading to Sainte-Colombe. At the end of the footbridge, take the steps on your left, which lead to the Quai d’Herbouville; follow this, also turning left (north). You’ll pass the Tour des Valois. A little further on, take the pedestrian ramp leading uphill to the left, with the aquatic centre on your right. Go round it to reach a large car park. Head towards the centre of its northern side, at the foot of an overhanging road.
(2) You’ll pass under the road via a pedestrian tunnel. At the tunnel exit, go straight up the stairs on your right. Take a moment to have a closer look at the Gallo-Roman site on your left.
Opposite you is the Gallo-Roman Museum of Saint-Romain-en-Gal. It’s well worth a visit (especially with children).
At the museum, cross the road to switch to the other pavement, then cross the river again.
(3) When you reach the junction, carry on to the right and very quickly take the steps leading down to the right towards the river. By taking this underpass, you’ll cross the junction safely, away from motor traffic.
You’ll emerge at the Place du Jeu de Paume. Opposite you is the Church of Saint-André d’en Bas (museum and cloister).
Climb the steps on the left-hand side and walk round the church. When you reach a small square, take Rue des Clercs (signposted ‘Temple of Augustus and Livia’). Hidden behind the façades of the buildings are splendid Renaissance courtyards, though these are now protected by digital entry systems.
(4) You’ll come out onto the small Place du Général de Gaulle, almost entirely dominated by the delightful Temple of Augustus and Livia. Take the time to walk around this square. Here you’ll see the old Vienne courthouse, a bookshop which, if you’re a reader, is sure to catch your eye, as well as several café terraces much loved by the people of Vienne.
Once you have walked all the way round the square, leave via Rue de la Chaîne, which runs perpendicular to Rue des Clercs (heading east). You will emerge onto Place de l’Hôtel de Ville. Walk past it and continue straight on until you reach a ‘T’-junction, where you turn right onto Rue des Orfèvres. Opposite you is what must be one of the oldest houses in Vienne (half-timbered). Walk past it to arrive immediately at Place du Pilori, which is home to numerous Roman ruins.
Turn left towards the Vienne Theatre. It is a small Italian-style theatre, rather unremarkable from the outside but delightful inside. Once you reach the theatre entrance, turn right and then left to reach Rue Victor Hugo.
Cross the street and take Montée Saint-Marcel opposite. Pass Rue des Célestes and, a little further on, climb a short flight of steps on the left which leads onto Rue du Cirque; turn left here as well.
(5) You’ll arrive at the Théâtre Antique. In summer you’ll hardly see any of it, as from here it’s hidden by the stage set up for the Jazz Festival. Otherwise, you can see it above the hoarding (you’ll see it very clearly from the Pipet viewpoint).
At the stop sign at the end of the street, turn right onto Rue de Pipet. It’s a steep climb, but just take your time… On your left is the vast Pipet cemetery. Halfway up the hill, there’s a bench where you can take a break.
Take the first street on your right (signposted ‘Belvédère de Pipet’).
(6) You’ll arrive at the Esplanade de Pipet. You’ll probably be glad you made the trip, as the view over Vienne and the Rhône Valley is particularly stunning and fascinating. You’ll see the Cathedral again, the Tour des Valois, the Museum, the unmissable Château de la Bâtie and, right at your feet, the gigantic Ancient Theatre. Further away, to the north-west on the right, lie the Monts du Lyonnais; to the south, the foothills of the Pilat.
Once you’ve had your fill of the views, retrace your steps back to Rue de Pipet, which you take to the right. Very soon you’ll turn off to the right again onto the Chemin des Amoureux (be careful, it’s easy to miss, and that would be a shame...). It climbs slightly at first, before very quickly descending steeply to the Montée Saint-Marcel, which you cross to take the Montée des Tupinières opposite.
Follow this until, after a short while, you turn right again onto the Montée Réaumur, which you’ll actually be walking down…
A little further on, follow it to the left, then left again, to come out onto the Montée de Coupe Jarret, which you take to the right. Very soon, you’ll come out onto Rue Victor Hugo (traffic lights). Cross it and take the second street on the right (Rue Peyron).
(7) You’ll come out onto Place de Miremont. Turn left, then left again onto Cours Romestang, with its tree-lined central reservation. This will take you back to the station, your starting point (S/E).
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