Cami Retirade - Cami de L'aigua

Circular passing through Coustouges and the foothills of Mont Capell. Shaded route, trail through chestnut woods.

Details

73565
Creation:
Last update:
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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 13.32 km
  • ◔
    Average duration: 5h 00 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Moderate

  • ⚐
    Back to start: Yes
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 422 m
  • ↘
    Descent: - 428 m

  • ▲
    Highest point: 944 m
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 650 m

Description of the walk

Departure from the motorhome parking area, 7 Rue Joseph Nivet, after passing under the porch.

(S/E) Continue along the road and follow the hairpin bends behind the sports hall. Continue along Rue de Tortella (or Rue d'En Cheiss), then turn left onto Rue de Puig Sec (the sign for "Cami de Puig Sec" is on the low wall on the right-hand side).

(1) At the end, take the cement path on the left and after 100 metres, take the small path on the right, still marked in red and yellow, then turn left onto the path. Find a dirt track, turn right and 50 metres further on, turn left through the chestnut woods.

(2) After 15 minutes, at an intersection, leave the red and yellow markings and turn right onto the yellow-marked path indicated by a sign (Coustouges via le Couloumer). Go through the small gate for livestock and close it behind you. Follow your progress on the map at the various intersections in addition to the yellow markings.
This is the Domaine du Couloumer goat farm. Hikers are allowed to pass through, but if you have dogs, you must keep them on a leash while crossing the farm to another gate.

(3) Find the road leading to Mas Couloume and turn left. Leave it 200 m further on and take a path on the left.

(4) Cross the Correc river almost at its confluence with the Mussarana. Climb up the other side to reach a road. Follow it to the right, then take the D3 on the left to reach Coustouges. Pass in front of the war memorial, then turn left at the first street to pass in front of the town hall. Continue straight ahead on the alley, then turn left to reach the church.

(5) Continue along the lane behind the church to go around it, then at the fork, turn right (Chemin Creux des Parrets) to the last houses, then at the end of the lane, start the climb up Els Escalers, the only significant climb. You will come out onto a track (be careful, from here there are no markings, so rely only on the description and the map).

(6) Descend the track to the left and, at the intersection (after 600 m), take the other track to the right. Leave Mas de Provadona de Dalt (a restored farmhouse) on your right and, still on the track, walk past a gate on your left that closes off access.

(7) At the next intersection, continue straight ahead, ignoring the track that goes up to the right and ends in a hairpin bend.

(8)Take the small path on the right, then walk along a field on your right and take the access path on the right until you reach the next hairpin bend.

(9) Take the path that branches off to the left. Further on, turn left for 50 metres to reach the viewpoint opposite Mas del Bosc d'en Corts.

(10) Return to the path and follow it to the left. Further on, cross the Correc again and, 200 m later, you will come to a track. Take it to the left, following a right-hand bend, then a left-hand bend.

(11) At the end of this bend, take the path that branches off to the left. This is the water path that leads to a track. Follow it to the left to reach the Col de Provadona immediately.

(12) Take the road on the left, then, 100 metres further on, leave it for a path on the left, between two fields. Join another path and continue to the right.

(13) At the crossroads with a small road, follow it to the left to descend to Saint Laurent.

(14) At the first houses, turn right onto the street towards Veinat de la Font (dead end). When you reach a house, take the path on your right, then the stairs that descend to the right to reach Rue de la Fontaine. Follow it to the left to reach the church.

(15) From the church, go down the Poujade steps, turn left at the bottom and go to No. 7 Rue Joseph Nivet. Turn left under the archway towards the community hall (S/E).

Waypoints

  1. S/E : km 0 - alt. 656 m - Motorhome parking area
  2. 1 : km 0.59 - alt. 690 m - Cement path on the left
  3. 2 : km 1.56 - alt. 778 m - End of GRP markings, yellow markings
  4. 3 : km 3.44 - alt. 829 m - Mas Couloume, road
  5. 4 : km 4.26 - alt. 793 m - Cross the Còrrec
  6. 5 : km 5.33 - alt. 825 m - Go around the church
  7. 6 : km 6.16 - alt. 944 m - Track on the left
  8. 7 : km 7.46 - alt. 901 m - Provadon de Baix crossroads, straight ahead
  9. 8 : km 7.89 - alt. 893 m - Hairpin bend, path on the right.
  10. 9 : km 8.33 - alt. 915 m - Sharp bend, path on the left.
  11. 10 : km 8.88 - alt. 906 m - Mas del Bosc d'en Corts viewpoint
  12. 11 : km 10.07 - alt. 836 m - Trail on the left
  13. 12 : km 10.39 - alt. 804 m - Col de Povradona, road on the left
  14. 13 : km 11.34 - alt. 782 m - Road on the left
  15. 14 : km 12.42 - alt. 716 m - Street on the right
  16. 15 : km 13.01 - alt. 690 m - Église Saint-Laurent (Saint-Laurent-de-Cerdans)
  17. S/E : km 13.31 - alt. 656 m - Motorhome parking area

Notes

We did the hike with five children aged 10 to 12. We left Saint-Laurent de Cerdans at 8 a.m. and returned at 1 p.m. without any difficulty. The only significant climb was Els Escalers in Coustouges.

Water in Coustouges, rain gear, hiking boots, if you have a dog, keep it on a leash near the goat herd (cheese shop).
Minimum duration 5 hours with children; plan a meal stop at the Col de Povradona restaurant.

Worth a visit

Visit Coustouges Church and goat farm.

Reviews and comments

4.2 / 5
Based on 18 reviews

Reliability of the description
3.9 / 5
Ease of following the route
4.2 / 5
Route interest
4.4 / 5
chanchou
chanchou

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Oct 16, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

Very nice place for lunch at No. 9

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Denis26
Denis26 ★

Thank you, User 17531105, for your comment. I believe I have provided the necessary clarification by adding WP8 at the start of the trail.

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User 17531105
• Edited:

Hello, very beautiful hike. It's a shame that Jacques 66's comment wasn't taken into account (at number 7). The path does not narrow; at the water reservoir just before a left turn, you have to take a very small path (marked in yellow) to the right of the reservoir. Most of the hike is in the shade.

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Denis26
Denis26 ★

Thank you, Bruno Alex, for pointing that out. I have just modified the description and the route accordingly.

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Bruno Alex
Bruno Alex
• Edited:

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : May 15, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★☆☆ Average
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Hike organised as club leader. Beautiful paths through the forests, ideal for summer weather. It is essential to move the S/E to the car park "Parking Aire serv. & stat. Camping cars 7 rue J. NIVET
GPS point: Departure/Arrival: N 42.38339° / E 2.61536°" The current location is in the town centre with little parking space for a group. Superb crossing of COUSTOUGES with a nice climb in the wake; plan a picnic a little further on N 42.379304 E 2.641479 ALT. 915 and 8.6km. Then a gentle descent to the finish.

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doume3851
doume3851
• Edited:

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Jan 03, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Hello fellow hikers
As a history buff, particularly of the 20th century, I wanted to immerse myself in the experiences of the Spanish Republicans during their flight to France, known as "La Retirada". It was January and February 1939. It wasn't difficult for me to imagine, as I walked along the trail from Saint Laurent de Cerdan to Coustouge, all those families with children and the fighters who had already been walking for hours and days since the evacuation of Barcelona. January and February 1939 had been very cold in Vallespir with lots of snow. This period is still very much alive in the collective memory in the Pyrenees-Orientales because many refugees and their descendants settled there.
Returning to the route, we had a very beautiful hike, often in the woods and sometimes in the meadows near Coustouge, with views of the snow-capped mountains, including the Pic du Costabonne, when the weather permitted. After having a bite to eat at the small picnic area near the town hall of the beautiful village of Coustouge and taking one last look at nearby Spain, we began the fairly steep climb towards the flag that we left on our left. The return journey is very pleasant but still requires frequent consultation of the Visorando map, not for fear of getting lost but to stay on the proposed route. I am very happy to have made what is for me a kind of pilgrimage. I must say that I come from a region called the Massif du Vercors, which also suffered greatly and whose liberation we commemorated this year.

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jacques 66
jacques 66

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Jan 28, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★☆☆ Average
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

a few clarifications to add to the description of the walk in point 6: still on the track, pass through a gate. You might think that the gate is on the track, but it is actually on the side and closes off access to a meadow. Point 7: We are on a track and it is marked that the path narrows. Ignore the paths branching off on either side. At this point, the track turns 180° to the left and does not narrow. However, a small path branches off to the right at the bend, which you should take. It would have been more logical to say to take the small path to the right at the 180° bend in the track.
''

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Jack66
Jack66

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Sep 25, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

A pleasant hike in fine weather, a well-shaded route that is easy to follow with the Viso Rando app.
It is worth noting that the route from Coustouges to St Laurent is the path that Spanish refugees took to flee the Spanish Civil War.
a commemorative plaque hangs on the façade of the town hall in Coustouges...

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Pierrot680
Pierrot680
• Edited:

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : May 08, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

Belle randonnée effectuée en 4h.
Possibilité de faire l'aller retour au drapeau situé au-dessus de Coustouges. Le départ se fait entre les points (6) et (7).

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Dreyg6
Dreyg6

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 25, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

A very beautiful, shaded hike, perfect for protecting yourself from the heat on sunny days. Completed in 3 hours and 55 minutes without rushing (adults). The GPS route is very reliable, we relied solely on it. A small suggestion: it would be better to start the hike from the small car park after crossing the village, because when we drove up to the village and parked at the Plaça Publica, we had to drive through streets that were only 3 metres wide... large cars should avoid this, ours just about managed it!

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cmura
cmura

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Apr 27, 2019
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

A very pleasant walk.
It would be useful to point out that you need to turn right at the bend after the gate of Mas Provadona de Baix, at a small cistern marked with a white arrow.

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CARBOU
CARBOU

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : May 13, 2019
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

The zoom feature on the map enabled us to find our way without difficulty. However, we did question the stated elevation gain of 404 metres, as we were actually climbing more than 600 metres

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JeDe66
JeDe66

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Dec 10, 2018
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good

A pleasant hike mainly through woodland (chestnut trees), best done in spring or early autumn to enjoy the colours.
The markings on the ground are sometimes a little light. A GPS is recommended as the suggested route is very reliable.

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grandin
grandin ★

I have tried to provide more detailed information in the description. Future hikers, please share your impressions in the field with us so that we can improve/correct this information sheet.

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grandin
grandin ★

Indeed, gege66, the route does not seem to correspond to the description. We will try to improve this. In the meantime, future hikers should be aware that they are setting off on something of an adventure.

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