Circular route via the Bau de Quatre Aures and the Croupatier

From Toulon, take the road leading to Le Broussan via the Col du Corps de Garde, starting from Avenue des Fils Marescot, which later becomes the D62.
You’ll soon come across a sign for “Baou des Quatre Aoures – Vue Panoramique”, which leads you onto the Chemin du Baou de Quatro Ouro.
In a right-hand bend, on the left, there is a bare plot of land enclosed by a green fence with a green metal gate, on which there is a water tank and a Veolia utility room. Opposite, on the right, is the junction with the old road from Toulon to Evenos, which you take.
After a straight slope followed by two hairpin bends, we arrive near a reservoir, beyond which the road is unpaved.
There is a lay-by here where several cars can park.

(S/E) We take the path that runs along the left-hand side of the reservoir enclosure. We climb this rocky path, ignoring any paths branching off to the left, and continue with the cliff always on our left.

(1) You will then arrive at the Pas de la Cavale, a relatively stable scree gully. However, you must remain vigilant for any falling rocks caused by the person in front of you, whom you should follow at a safe lateral distance.
For most of the ascent, you climb in a straight line up a slope of around 60%, right through the scree. Then, near the summit, you’ll find a well-maintained, switchbacking path reinforced with sturdy dry-stone walls.

(2) This brings you to the summit of Cap Gros, where you can see the remains of military structures.
You then set off along the gravel track that descends towards the west, with constant beautiful views over Toulon and La Seyne.

(3) Just below a bend to the left, you can see a vast esplanade which is the catchment area for the Rouvière Plane cistern. Take a path on the left which leads you beneath this structure; pass through the gate in a beautiful masonry wall, and descend the Vallon des Bagnards, heading south.

(4) At the mouth of the Vallon des Bagnards, you reach the bridge overlooking the Vallon des Bonnes Herbes, and take the track on the right which initially climbs very gradually, with a constant view of the Vallon des Bonnes Herbes and a southern slope where you can see old terraces.
You come to a cistern and turn right, leaving to your left the track that descends towards Le Détras and then towards Châteauvallon. You climb, with a view to the left of Le Détras and La Courtine and, soon, to the right, a view of the track you have just left and, in the distance, the southern slope of Le Bau de Quatre Aures.

(5) On reaching the pass, you’ll find the^GR® on your left; take this to follow the Croupatier ridge line westwards.

(6) You pass under a high-voltage power line. In the open area, you can see a path to the south leading down to the main cave of the Croupatier, which is an ideal spot for a picnic break.
To the north, a well-marked path leads to the trail that takes us to Le Broussan. But we don’t take it and continue a little further west. In fact, we stay on the GR^®.

(7) Here, the^GR® turns right and descends steeply.
If we were to go straight on towards the west, we would reach the Chappe telegraph station via Les Bornes.
So we turn right and stay on the^GR®, for a descent of about 200 m.

(8) You’ll find a path branching off horizontally to the right, whilst the^GR® heads left. Take the path on the right, heading north-east towards Le Broussan. The path descends gradually as it follows the Destel Valley.

(9) You reach the Destel, which usually has very little water (take care in stormy weather!).
Cross the river and follow it upstream until, as the first houses of Le Broussan come into view, you find a path leading up to the right.

(10) Take this path, which climbs eastwards, overlooking the village of Broussan.

(11) Staying on this path, you arrive in the Vallon du Corps de Garde where you find a track, which becomes a path, and climbs up the valley towards the Col du Corps de Garde, with the stream below, which is sometimes in gorges, and on the other bank the D62 road which runs from Le Broussan to Toulon via the pass.

(12) Once at the pass, take the forest track marked with a sign bearing the inscriptions “V 36” and “Protection Incendie – Corps de Garde”. Follow this relatively level track to the Croix du Signal, then descend gently southwards, passing alongside the reservoir to reach the car park (S/E).

Water sources... well, there aren’t any! You absolutely must bring a water bottle, because you’ll get thirsty!

Hiking boots are essential, if only for climbing the Pas de la Cavale couloir; and further on, the tracks are very stony and the paths often cross areas of sharp limestone pavement, which are merciless on feet and ankles. Fortunately, there are a few sections of earthen paths where you can rest your feet.

Hiking poles are just as essential, in my humble opinion as a humble hiker.

This hike should obviously be avoided in wet weather, and even more so during a storm, as the rocks become slippery underfoot, sometimes coated in clay picked up from the few earthen sections: a real hazard. Not to mention the Destel, which swells visibly when it rains and may then prove impossible to cross.

It should be noted that in summer, the Var’s forest areas, including this one, may be subject to preventive closures due to the risk of fire.

A brief aside regarding the name of the Bau de Quatre Aures (the spelling I have opted for): one can see that this poor rock has its name spelled differently depending on the map, document, road sign, etc. I have even seen “Bau de Quatre Heures” on Michelin maps in the past. Obviously, its name has nothing to do with a clock; in Provençal, it means ‘Rock of the Four Winds’ (or ‘Four Airs’), hence the variations in spelling depending on accents and pronunciation.

On this sort of walk, there is so much to see and experience that you can never “walk aimlessly”.

Firstly, the rich panoramic views, both of Toulon and its harbour and of Evenos, and further afield, Saint-Cyr and La Ciotat. Don’t forget your IGN map, if not to guide you, then at least to familiarise yourself with the surrounding villages and terrain.

Then there is the vegetation: although the foliage varies little from one season to the next, the flowering is very rich and ever-changing; not to mention the scents and the relatively unspoilt insect life. Finally, the mineral aspect, with the distinctive and rugged beauty of this karst landscape.

Not to mention the appeal of visiting these places at different times of the year, as each season has its own charm. It can be very hot or very cold, and there is something for everyone.

You’ll never get bored on the hills of the Western Var.