In the centre of Banyuls-sur-Mer, on Avenue de La République, where a large semi-pedestrianised area has been created, turn right at the unremarkable roundabout. With the town hall on your left, take the Route du Col de Banyuls or Avenue du Général de Gaulle, heading towards the gendarmerie, running alongside the Baillaury.
Just after passing under the railway line, turn left onto a narrow bridge towards the hamlet of Puig del Mas, via Avenue Pierre Marca, which curves sharply to the right. Immediately after, at the entrance to the hamlet, at a bus stop: the rest of the street is closed to traffic in this direction (a sign for Walter Benjamin is attached to it); park in one of the car parks (on the left, or further down on the right).
Yellow markings throughout the walk.
(S/E) If you have parked in the lower car park, walk up to the car park at Place Abel Pages.
Go to the stop sign at the end of this car park, then make a very quick first turn right then left as you cross Cami Canta Cigala.
Look out for the yellow markings of the Walter Benjamin Trail.
Head towards a side street and a path opposite. Watch out for vehicles often parked in front of the crossing. Look for an EDF concrete post with a Walter Benjamin sign attached to it.
(1) Head straight on, descending the steps towards the Rec de Barlanda. After 150 m, at the fork, after fording the stream bed, head straight on along the road (Chemin du Mas Guillaume), which climbs due south.
You must continue along the small road known as Chemin du Mas Guillaume. Ignore the adjacent paths. You will reach a junction of roads and paths at Coll Del Bast (altitude 139 m).
(2) Signpost. Head straight up a steep path due south, ignoring the two roads on your left and right. Follow the yellow markings. Continue climbing due south. You will come to a cross-country track.
(3) Turn right for a few metres and then continue left round a bend in the track as you climb. Leave the two tracks on your right and continue like this for about 300 m.
(4) Leave the track. Caution: climb very steeply to the right through the heath, along the start of a damaged and steep path. Pass close to the altitude of 285.
Continue the climb due south along the path. Pass the 310-metre altitude at the EDF pylon, beneath the high-voltage power line. Head towards the ridge line due south. Yellow markings are present. Continue climbing for 200 m. Join a cross-track. Directional sign.
(5) Climb up this track, turning right towards the south-west. The first hairpin bend turns left towards the east for 100 m.
(6) Ignore the track branching off to the left at Coll de Cerbère (Cervera). Climb right-hand side up a stony track, heading due west.
(7) Pass a developed and tapped spring (390 m) on the left (Font del Banà). Information board. Continue climbing below the ridge on the left. The path descends and climbs frequently before reaching a fork at Col de Rumpissar (550 m).
(8) A sign, placed on the borderline, explained the story of this Walter Benjamin. The site was ravaged by a fire in 2023. The sign is illegible.
''From this spot, he The signposts are often destroyed; follow the route description carefully. Signposts in perfect condition in November 2023 and February 2024. Markings in very good condition.
Head completely to the left, due north-east, climbing steeply up a path alongside the fence. Pass the point with an altitude of 613. Continue climbing along this ridge towards the ruins of the tower and arrive at a flat area at a fork in the path. Directional sign (November 2023 and February 2024).
(9) A sign in Spanish has been erected recounting the history of this tower. The same situation following the fire.
Leave the path that branches off to the right towards Portbou. Continue climbing, carefully following the very well-marked path. You will reach the ruins of the Torre de Querroig (672 m).
(10) From the ruins of this tower, there is a magnificent 360° view. Views of Spain, France, all the beaches, the surrounding mountains and the towns on the plain. It is a lovely spot to have a bite to eat. Remember to plan your return journey.
Caution: the descent is steep and heads due north. Take your time, as parts of this ridge path are quite challenging, though not dangerous.
A few metres further down, there is a sign in French telling the story of this tower.
Pass the altitude of 563. Continue down. Pass Coll del Llipoter and Coll de les Portes. The path now turns north-east. Pass the 505 and 473-metre altitudes. Descend towards the watchtower in the distance, a cistern and the nearby pass (410 m) at a junction of tracks and paths at Coll de Cerbère (Cervera).
(11) Signpost. Head straight on towards the watchtower, still due north-east. Follow the wide track closely without trying to cut across. Follow the yellow markings.
The track now climbs and changes sides of the slope. Leave the track leading to the watchtower on your right. Follow the track with the ridge on your right. Pass the relay pylons (altitude 458 m) and Puig Joan (450 m) on your right. Head towards the high-voltage power line. The track now descends and reaches a fork (430 m) in a right-hand bend.
(12) Signpost. Head left of the large EDF pylon, passing under the high-voltage power line. Descend steeply due north along the steep path. Pass the altitudes 355 (ruins of a dolmen) and 297. You will reach a fork at Coll de La Creu (alt. 280 m). Signpost.
(13) Ignore the path ahead leading into the heath and the path on the right descending to the small road. Head down to the left, north-west, along a path and join a track. Continue until you reach another fork (alt. 160 m). Signpost.
(14) Turn right, immediately passing the sharp left-hand bend. At the next sharp right-hand bend, join the Route du Mas Pagès. Follow it down to the right, heading due north. Ignore the adjacent tracks and paths. Follow the yellow markings carefully. Pass the Torre d'en Pagès (private) on your right. Continue down the road (Rue Manolo Valiente) and look out for a left-hand fork in the bend.
(15) Cairn and yellow markings. Head down to the left along a wide stony path. Follow the road (Rue Manolo Valente) again for 50 m. Turn left, past the houses, towards the hamlet of Puig del Mas and rejoin the road further down.
Please note: the IGN map is not accurate; you must follow the yellow markings described here. The path bypasses a section of the road.
(16) Turn left onto Rue de la Colline aux Olives, heading due west. Descend, carefully following the yellow markings, and reach the car park (S/E).