In the centre of Banyuls-sur-Mer, on Avenue de La République, where a large semi-pedestrianised area has been created, turn right at the unmarked roundabout. With the town hall on your left, take the Col de Banyuls road or Avenue du Général de Gaulle towards the gendarmerie, following the Baillaury.
Just after passing under the railway line, turn left onto a narrow bridge towards the hamlet of Puig del Mas, Avenue Pierre Marca, which curves sharply to the right. Immediately after, at the entrance to the hamlet, at a bus stop: the road is closed to traffic in this direction (Walter Benjamin sign attached to it), park in one of the car parks (on the left or below on the right).
Yellow markings throughout the hike.
(S/E) If your car is parked in the lower car park, walk back up to the car park at Place Abel Pages.
Go to the stop sign at the end of this car park, make a quick first turn right then left across Cami Canta Cigala.
Look for the yellow markings for the Walter Benjamin Trail.
Join a side street and a path opposite. Watch out for vehicles often parked in front of the passage. Look for a concrete EDF pole with a Walter Benjamin sign attached to it.
(1) Go straight ahead, down the steps towards Rec de Barlanda. After 150 m, at the fork, after crossing the stream bed, go straight ahead on the road (Chemin du Mas Guillaume), which climbs southwards.
Continue along the small road Chemin du Mas Guillaume. Ignore the adjacent paths. You will arrive at a crossroads of roads and paths at Coll Del Bast (altitude 139).
(2) Directional sign. Go straight up a steep path heading south, leaving the two roads on your left and right. Follow the yellow markings. Continue climbing south. You will come to a cross-country track.
(3) Turn right for a few metres and continue left as the track curves upwards. Leave the two tracks on your right and continue for about 300 m.
(4) Leave the track. Caution: climb very steeply to the right into the heath, along a damaged and steep path. Pass close to the altitude of 285.
Continue climbing south on the path. Pass the point with an altitude of 310 at the EDF pylon, under the high-voltage power line. Head towards the ridge line due south. Yellow markings are present. Continue climbing for 200 m. Join a cross-country track. Directional sign.
(5) Climb this track, turning right towards the south-west. The first bend turns left towards the east for 100 m.
(6) Leave the track that continues on the flat. Climb completely to the right along a stony track, heading due west.
(7) Pass a developed and tapped spring (390 m) on your left (Font del Banà). Information sign. Continue climbing under the ridge on your left. The path descends and climbs frequently before reaching a fork at Col de Rumpissar (550 m).
(8) A sign on the border explained the story of Walter Benjamin. The area was ravaged by fire in 2023. The sign is now illegible.
''From this spot, the signs are often destroyed, so follow the description carefully. Signs in perfect condition in November 2023 and February 2024. Markings in very good condition.
Start completely on the left, heading north-east, climbing steeply along a path alongside the fence. Pass the point with an altitude of 613. Continue climbing along this ridge towards the ruins of the tower and arrive at a flat area at a fork in the path. Directional sign (November 2023 and February 2024).
(9) There is a sign in Spanish recounting the history of this tower. Same observation following the fire.
Leave the path that branches off to the right towards Portbou. Continue climbing, following the well-marked path. Arrive at the ruins of Torre de Querroig (672 m).
(10) From the ruins of this tower, there is a magnificent 360° view. View of Spain, France, all the beaches, the surrounding mountains and the towns on the plain. This is a beautiful place to stop for a bite to eat. Remember to plan your return journey.
Caution: descend steeply due north. Take your time, as parts of this ridge trail are quite difficult, but not dangerous.
A few metres further down, there is a sign in French recounting the history of this tower.
Pass the altitude of 563. Continue downhill. Pass Coll del Llipoter and Coll de les Portes. The trail now turns north-east. Pass elevations 505 and 473. Descend towards the watchtower in the distance, a cistern and the pass (410 m) closer to a crossroads of tracks and paths at Coll de Cerbère (Cervera).
(11) Directional sign. Continue straight ahead towards the watchtower, still heading north-east. Follow the wide track without trying to cut across. Follow the yellow markings.
The track now climbs and changes sides. Leave the track that leads to the watchtower on your right. Follow the track with the ridge on your right. Leave the relay pylons (altitude 458) and Puig Joan (altitude 450 m) on your right. Head towards the high-voltage power line. The track now descends and joins a fork (altitude 430 m) in a right-hand bend.
(12) Directional sign. Set off to the left of the large EDF pylon, passing under the high-voltage power line. Descend steeply northwards along the steep path. Pass points 355 (ruins of a dolmen) and 297. You will come to a fork at Coll de La Creu (altitude 280 m). Directional sign.
(13) Ignore the path opposite that leads into the heath and the path on the right that descends to the small road. Descend to the left, north-west, along a path and join a track. Continue and you will come to a fork (altitude 160 m). Directional sign.
(14) Turn right, immediately after the sharp left-hand bend. At the next sharp right-hand bend, join the Route du Mas Pagès. Descend to the right, heading due north. Ignore the adjacent tracks and paths. Follow the yellow markings. Pass the Torre d'en Pagès (private) on your right. Continue down the road (Rue Manolo Valiente) and look for a fork to the left in the bend in the road.
(15) Cairn and yellow markings. Descend to the left along a wide stony path. Follow the road (Rue Manolo Valente) again for 50 m. Turn left, along the houses, towards the hamlet of Puig del Mas and rejoin the road further down.
Please note: the IGN map is not accurate, so follow the yellow markings described here. The path bypasses a section of the road.
(16) Turn left onto Rue de la Colline aux Olives, heading due west. Descend, following the yellow markings, and return to the car park (S/E).