On the heights of the Côte Vermeille from Banyuls-sur-mer

From Perpignan, head towards Banyuls-sur-Mer. Opposite the beach, in the semi-pedestrianised area, turn right towards the gendarmerie via Avenue Général de Gaulle. Follow the Ribera de Vallauria (Baillaury river) on your left. Park along this avenue before the railway underpass. *
It is possible to travel to Banyuls-sur-Mer by bus for €1 or by TER train.
SNCF train station: continue on foot along the railway line via a path and arrive directly at point 1.
Bus stop: find the enamel sign indicating the GR®10 on the front of the town hall and follow the red and white markings to the railway bridge.

(S/E) Cross the avenue at the pedestrian crossing near the railway bridge. Do not go under the bridge. Turn right onto the street that turns north. Turn left onto Rue Charles de Fourcault. Continue towards the two cemeteries.
Please note: there is no pavement for 100 metres. However, there is very little traffic. Please take care.
Cross a small roundabout via a pedestrian crossing, still following the railway line on your left above.
You will arrive in a low-lying area prone to flooding. Join the^GR®10.

Red and white markings.^GR®10

(1) Turn left through the tunnel under the railway line.
Caution: there is no pavement but very little traffic. Take care.
Immediately after exiting the tunnel, turn right and climb very steeply up a rough path that eventually turns into a track suitable for vehicles.

(2) Cross the road and continue straight ahead, climbing steeply up a path through the rocks.
Unfortunately, after 300 m, the pretty path has been widened and converted into a DFCI track. The red and white^GR®10markings are still very visible.

(3) Three tracks fork. Take the left fork onto this new DFCI track. Join an old DFCI track. Take the right fork onto this track for 20 metres, then turn left and climb steeply up a good path.

(4) Pass Coll de Llagastera. Take the road on the right, heading towards the clearly visible tower.
Continue carefully along this road, which is busy during the summer, for 600 m.

(5) After a left-hand bend, turn right onto a good path above the vineyards, still on the^GR®10.
Pass the Fontaine des Gascons, known by this name but marked as Font del Falgueràs on the IGN map. It has been converted into two water intakes.
"It flows all year round. Locals have been drinking from it for years without filtering it."
The path then becomes very steep and rugged. Take extra care in bad weather.
Cross the road twice, then a third time, and continue to the right for 50 m, towards Coll dels Gascons. See practical information.

(6) Climb up, leaving the cistern and the flat track on your left. The signpost has been destroyed (observed in 2019 and again in 2024).

(7) At the various posts, markings and signs, continue left along the hillside, still following the^GR®10.
Pass the old tiled cellar of Tina d'en Reig and arrive at Coll de Formigó.
The path then descends towards Coll de Vallauria. Continue to the right along the track, still on the^GR®10, for about 50 metres.

Yellow markings. Leave the^GR®10

(8) Turn completely right onto the Chemin de l'Eau, which turns northwards and descends slightly. This path stays on the hillside with the Torre de Madaloc on your right above you.

(9) Fork in the path.
Alternative: to shorten the hike, you can climb to the right towards Coll de Tallaferro.
Otherwise, continue along this path, which continues to descend slightly, and walk another 1.5 km to see the Serra hunters' hut.

(10) At Coll de la Serra, turn completely right onto a very steep ridge path carved into the rock.
Caution: it is in good condition, but very steep with some high steps to climb.

(11) Fork in the road.
Alternative: you can continue left along the hillside towards Col de Taillefer, passing by the Madeloc Refuge below the Casernes de Tallaferro.
Otherwise, continue right on the very steep ridge path carved into the rock. Arrive at the Batterie de Taillefer and continue towards a large flat area.

(12) At Coll de Tallafero, turn left onto the track and follow it for 100 m, then climb right up a wide stony path towards Torre de Madaloc.

(13) Pass the relay antennas and arrive at the foot of the tower. Magnificent landscape, sea, mountains.
The wind can blow very strongly here in violent gusts. Do not linger in this case.
Now descend via the old road, which is closed to motor traffic.
The car park shown on old IGN maps has not existed for a long time. The only place to park is at the altitude of 454m on the D86.
Reach the ruins of Battery 500.

(14) Leave the road and turn right, below Battery 500, onto a very rough track that descends steeply towards Coll dels Gascons. Return to the fork you passed on the way up.

(7) Continue downhill towards the pass.

No markings

(6) Coll dels Gascons.
Please note: if in doubt, from Coll dels Gascons, continue along the road following the yellow markings. Then, at the^first bend to the left, continue straight on towards Notre-Dame de la Salette.
Otherwise, head straight ahead above the road, following a small path that is clearly marked on the ground.
Pass the clay pigeon shooting range. Continue along the well-marked path. You will come to the end of a track suitable for vehicles.

Yellow markings

(15) Continue down this beautiful ridge path through the vineyards. Magnificent view of the coast. Join a track suitable for vehicles and continue downhill towards an open area.

(16) Coll d'Ullastre. Continue along the road, climbing slightly, towards Notre-Dame de la Salette (la Seleta). A beautiful spot with a stunning view. There is a parking area for the tourist train.
"A fire in the summer of 2019 partially damaged this beautiful wooded area, but fortunately did not damage the religious building, which is located in a clear, treeless area."
Then descend via a steep, marked path and, further down, rejoin the Cami de la Salette and the tarmac road in the new housing estate.

(17) Head downhill, due east, on a concrete road, following the clearly marked yellow signs. At the cellar (elevation 81), there are signposts.
Continue down the road, passing a large storage yard belonging to the cellar and a transmitter perfectly camouflaged by a fir tree to blend into the surroundings.
Then, at the end of the tarmac, the path to follow is damaged and widened (observation 2024).
Find the concrete steps. This will take you to the foot of the gendarmerie. Continue down the road. Turn right and cross the two pedestrian crossings, then follow La Baillaury on the left.
Pass under the railway bridge and rejoin the (S/E).

(5) Please note: two very attractive staircases have been built (observed on 7 April 2021). This significantly improves the route each time you cross the road.

Water point below Coll dels Gascons. Covered area at the old clay pigeon shooting range.

Avoid hot weather. Be careful of the wind, which can blow very strongly on the ridge.

This is a mid-mountain area. So, as you would expect, you will need: rain and windproof clothing, water, snacks, GPX track, description, map, GPS or Visorando app, camera, good walking shoes, walking stick.

Alternative: you can shorten the hike a little by going from (9) to by climbing directly to Coll de Tallafero (12). This also avoids the steep climb from Coll de la Serra.

• During the summer season, all car parks are pay-and-display (since 2023). So, go under the SNCF bridge, continue to the right and park in the Carrefour supermarket car park (D86) or continue along Route du Col de Banyuls and find a small car park on the left below.

Banyuls-sur-mer

Hike completed again by the author on 24 October 2019, then several more times...