Three small volcanic hills in a row (puys)

"Human noise becomes silent, nature makes volcanoes chatter; whispering landscapes, and whispering a thousand voices of silence". Caption of the beautiful sculpture by Thierry Courtadon that you will encounter on your route, alongside with great viewpoints.

Details

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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 13.76 km
  • ◔
    Average duration: 5h 05 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Moderate

  • ⚐
    Back to start: Yes
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 402 m
  • ↘
    Descent: - 399 m

  • ▲
    Highest point: 1,159 m
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 945 m

Description of the walk

Start: On the D941 road, at the Vulcania roundabout, take the Chanat-la-Mouteyre road (D559) and, after about 200 meters, park in the car park left of the road.

(S/E) From the parking spot, head West, parallel to the D559, following a small Blue PR® sign, as well as the Red and White markings of the GR®°4/441. Follow these signs until otherwise indicated. The wide, rutted path comes to a junction. Leave the GR® markings and continue to the right, following the Blue markings.

(1) After 1 Km, at a junction with a wide path on the left, notice a small Yellow sign on the right indicating 'Fontaine des Pères'.

Here, you can take a detour right by crossing the fence on the dedicated walkway (not really practical) and follow the small path which passes an old shepherd's wagon (A) and climbs to the left to reach an impressive string of small drinking troughs (B). Then, return to the path along the same way and over the same fence.

(1) Take the right-hand path again, ignoring a few left-hand paths until you reach a fork in the path and come to a GR® waymarker. Leave the Blue markings and follow the GR®4 straight ahead North-West.

(2) About 100 m further on, turn right leaving the GR® waymarker. Further on, pass two Yellow markers, one after the other, marked 955m, and each time continue straight on in the direction of Le Bouchet. Reach a path junction of four paths at the 946m waymarker, and the "CHUT!" sculpture. (C).

(3) Turn right and continue straight ahead on this path. Pass the "Forêt de Beauregard" sign and continue between pine trees and beech woods. At a fork, turn right (Yellow markings).

(4) At the next fork, ignore a PR® signposted in Yellow on the left and turn right following the "Puys de Jumes et de la Coquille" circuit (Yellow sign). Ignore a path on the right at a sign prohibiting mountain bikes.

(5) At the next junction, find the GR®441 and follow it to the right, also following a Yellow signpost and the direction of Puy de Jumes (Yellow sign). The path rapidly rises and reaches the edge of the crater. Continue left to skirt the crater, through a hornbeam wood.

(6) Pass a small yellow sign indicating altitude 1161m at Puy de Jumes (D) summit and continue on the trail equipped with stairs. Further on, to the south of the crater, take a short detour along a path that veers off to the right to reach an open esplanade offering a fine view, then pick up the signposted path again. This descends then rises up again to reach the sign indicating altitude 1152 for Puy de la Coquille (D).

(7) Continue on the path, heading South. Further on, again, take a short detour to the right, which leads to a promontory with a fine view. Return to the path, which steeply descends.

(8) At the first crossroads, continue left (GR®) then, a few metres further on at the crossroads, (marker 1022m), continue left towards "Bois de Clermont". At the next intersection, ignore the track opposite and follow the right-hand bend.

The path then bends left to go around Puy de Clermont. Arrive at the "Bois de Clermont" signpost. Continue left towards Puy Chopine. After about 50 m, ignore a left-hand path and come to a crossroads opposite the "Forêt de Fontêtes" sign.

(9) Follow the GR® markings to the right. At the next crossroads, at the "Puy Chopine" marker, join the GR®4 and climb to the left towards Puy des Gouttes, also following a Blue sign. Walk through a beech forest, then follow the path, which has been laid out to limit erosion, and cross a stile. Higher up, you come to the edge of the Puy des Gouttes crater (E).

(10) Go around the crater on the path that offers a wide view, then continue on the path that steeply descends through a beautiful beech forest. The Blue markings become inconspicuous, so follow the GR® markings. At the bottom, turn left and cross a stile at the 969m marker.

(11) On the other side, turn right towards Puy de Chaumont. At a fork in the road, at the "Puy de Chaumont" marker, turn right towards "Fontaine des Pères". Continue straight ahead to find the parking lot (S/E).

Waypoints

  1. S/E : km 0 - alt. 951 m - Car park on the edge of the D559.
  2. 1 : km 1.32 - alt. 981 m - Round trip to Fontaine des Pères
  3. 2 : km 2.07 - alt. 984 m - On the right, off the GR trail.
  4. 3 : km 4.14 - alt. 945 m - Hush! On the right
  5. 4 : km 5.53 - alt. 985 m - Turn right towards Puys Jume and Coquille.
  6. 5 : km 6.3 - alt. 1,029 m - Turn right onto the GR
  7. 6 : km 6.85 - alt. 1,136 m - Puy de Jumes
  8. 7 : km 7.72 - alt. 1,146 m - Puy de la Coquille
  9. 8 : km 9 - alt. 1,020 m - Turn left onto the GR
  10. 9 : km 10.14 - alt. 1,022 m - GR on the right
  11. 10 : km 11.26 - alt. 1,108 m - Puy des Gouttes
  12. 11 : km 12.47 - alt. 971 m - Turn right towards - Puy de Chaumont
  13. S/E : km 13.76 - alt. 951 m - Car park on the edge of the D559.

Notes

Start & Parking: On the D941 road, at the Vulcania roundabout, take the Chanat-la-Mouteyre road (D559) and, after about 200 meters, park in the car park left of the road..

In the wake of the Chaîne des Puys being declared a UNESO World Heritage Site, there is a project to develop access to Puy Chopine. To be continued ...

Stiles : Beware! Hikers with large dogs: two stiles at the end of the route.

Worth a visit

Discover more hikes in this area with a description or the Visorando app here

Some photos here and here

(a) Old shepherd's caravan. Mobile enclosures made of wooden slats and shepherds' huts on wheels, which already appear in 15th-century illuminations, remained in use, with little change, until the 1970s. They were necessary on pastures far from villages or on plots of land that were to be smoked. See document 3 at this link.

(b) The Fontaine des Pères supplied water troughs for the sheep of the village of Fontêtes.

(c) SHHH! A sculpture by Thierry Courtadon, an artist specialising in sculpting Volvic stone, which is renowned for being very difficult to work with. Another of his sculptures can be found near the start of this hike, "VULCANIA", at the roundabout on the D941.

(d) The Puy de Jumes and Puy de Coquille (or Jumes and Coquille, according to various spellings, all of which are official!) are Strombolian-type basaltic scoria cones characterised by fairly fluid lava. These puys have shallow but well-defined craters.

(e) At the summit of Puy des Gouttes, there is a breathtaking view of the rocky peak of Puy Chopine, which protrudes from the crater of Puy des Gouttes. The unusual shape of Puy Chopine catches the eye: it is the most beautiful example of a peak in the Chaîne des Puys.

Always be cautious and plan ahead when you're outdoors. Visorando and the author of this route cannot be held responsible for any accidents occurring on this route.

The GR® and PR® markings are the intellectual property of the Fédération Française de Randonnée Pédestre.

Reviews and comments

4.8 / 5
Based on 15 reviews

Reliability of the description
4.7 / 5
Ease of following the route
4.7 / 5
Route interest
4.9 / 5
Damuse
Damuse

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Jan 20, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

It's an excellent walk that can be extended or shortened as you wish! The morning frost made the paths truly magical!

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Positiver68
Positiver68

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Sep 14, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A beautiful route despite the fog and wind.
Possibility of eating under cover in a room for hikers with toilets and drinking water; picnic table also outside.

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MtheFog
MtheFog

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Oct 30, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

This is a fine route that really takes in the scenery of the Chaîne des Puys, with a superb panoramic view of Puy Sarcoui and Puy de Côme from the summit of Puy des Gouttes.

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Poppy74
Poppy74

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 01, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A 14km circuit with around 400m of ascent, with some very beautiful forest sections and lovely views of the Puy de Dôme and the volcanoes above Vulcania (the Jume, the Coquille, the Puy de Clermont and the contour de la Chopine). There weren't many people on the trail this Sunday, with the exception of the Puy des Gouttes. This walk requires good walking shoes.

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marie-anne9
marie-anne9

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 15, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Magnificent hike with breathtaking panoramas...little frequented on that day as it was very hot...very difficult descent as the terrain was very dry and slippery...definitely worth recommending...

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jorl34
jorl34

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 17, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A very pleasant hike, especially in summer when you're looking for coolness! We started the walk at around 10am, and reached the undergrowth section at around 11am when it was starting to get really hot, which was perfect. Lovely views. Now that the work has been completed, the section between points 6 and 8 is perfectly passable, with brand new stairs in places. There's no problem getting over the 2 stepladders with a dog, which can slip under the fence next to them.

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choruszko
choruszko

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Oct 21, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Between 6 and 8 the circuit is closed until mid-December for safety work.

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solim
solim

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 12, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A very pleasant hike, absolutely in line with the explanations, thank you very much!

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william63
william63

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 22, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Hi everyone, I followed the itinerary, although it was only at the beginning that I had trouble, at the end of point (1), I persisted in looking for a route in the enclosure..., when all I had to do was retrace my steps and get back on the main road!

Apart from that, it was a great 4-hour hike for me, with a break after Puys Jumes (because it climbs all of a sudden)...

A really nice walk as indicated, where you can watch the sheep, goats and hot-air balloons passing just over our heads (between 6.30 and 7.00 am from what I could see).

It's just a shame to see some of the handkerchiefs on the ground... but apart from that, it's quite doable with the kids!

Thanks for the itinerary!

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Michel lacroix
Michel lacroix

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 18, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : Yes

Superb walk with a long, flat start.
Easy ascent of the three puys with superb views of the Puys range.
The descent of the Puy des Gouttes can be slippery in wet weather.
Superb in fine weather.

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Cindy4363
Cindy4363
• Edited:

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Apr 17, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Tested and approved
I did it in the opposite direction. We hit a wall after 10 minutes, which put us in the mood, but the rest was pleasant and we ended up on a flat surface for the last few kilometres.
I set off with my dog (a beauceron type) who managed to get past the stepladders.
This is a hike you have to do equipped, especially in wet weather, as the path is muddy and slippery.
Some lovely viewpoints and some lovely discoveries. All the best.
The photos are on my instagram account CindyDerail, dated 17/04/21.

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varta42
varta42

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 02, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : Yes

Superb hike, ideal in hot weather as there is a lot of undergrowth. I did it in the opposite direction by mistake so the big climb is at the beginning... maybe better ....

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F84606
F84606

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Feb 07, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

We did this walk in just over 3 hours. The route looks easy on paper, but there are 2 slightly steep ascents and the last descent is very steep. The ground was greasy and very slippery on the last descent, so be careful.
The landscape is very changeable, starting with meadows, then woods and finally the slopes of volcanoes.
There are many impressive trees, from majestic firs to imposing hardwoods.
We really enjoyed it.
We used the gpx track, which was perfectly reliable.

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BG30
BG30

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Apr 30, 2019
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good

The Puy de Jumes crater is still clearly visible despite the overgrowth. The Puy de Coquille crater is not very visible because it is largely covered by shrubs. We didn't see any point in climbing Puy Chopine: many trees block the access path and the panorama is rather disappointing compared with Puy des Gouttes, which offers a magnificent view of the other puys and the surrounding countryside.

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a.martin
a.martin

Overall rating : 3 / 5

Date of your route : Apr 20, 2019
Reliability of the description : ★★☆☆☆ Disappointing
Ease of following the route : ★★★☆☆ Average
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good

At the crossroads at point 2, there was no clear signposting. One chance in 2 of making a mistake and that was our case. To sum up, we decided to climb the puy des gouttes, a magnificent peak with a panoramic view of the puys chain.

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