Access:
At the roundabout at the entrance to Tarascon-sur-Ariège, from the N20 towards Spain, turn right onto the D618 towards Saurat. Before Surbat, turn left towards Rabat (D223). Drive through Rabat-les-Trois-Seigneurs and, without crossing the bridge, follow the signs for La Freyte. Drive through La Freyte and continue for 4 km until you reach the end of the tarmac road. Park in the car park by the Ruisseau de la Courbière stream.
(S/E) At the far right of the car park, climb about ten metres to reach the forest path. The path follows the valley, on the left bank of the Courbière stream.
(1) This is where the loop begins. Continue straight ahead, still on the left bank of the stream. Ignore the track on the left which leads directly to the Étang Bleu. We will return via this route. Further on, cross a clearing and you will reach the Cabane d'Embanels.
(2) The hut is in poor condition. Only part of it is in good condition. Walk past the hut.
Caution! Two important notes:
- the IGN 2020 map shows a forest path that is not passable.
- the same map does not show a stream coming from the north side.
Cross this "phantom" stream, but stay on the left bank of the Courbière stream. The slope quickly becomes steeper through beautiful undergrowth and rejoins the forest path shown on the map, which leads to the Cabane de la Coumeders (well-maintained hut, possibility of making a fire and cooking in a hearth).
(3) Beyond the hut, cross the stream on your left, descending slightly, and find a path that is not very visible at first. It leads you north/north-west to the edge of the forest at around 1,450 metres.
(4) A marked bend at the edge of the forest opens onto a beautiful clearing on your left below. Quite quickly, you return to the forest for about 300m until the next point.
(5) You are now at the entrance to the cirque that will take you to the Pourtanelle pass. Continue to the right off the trail, towards the bottom of the valley, staying on the right-hand side of the marshy plateau (north/north-west direction).
(6) Cross the few streams (heading west). Then head towards the pass, following the cairns (heading south-west).
(7) The climb becomes steeper. Cairns guide you up to the Col de la Pourtanelle. Shortly before the pass, the cairns disappear and the trail fades away. Continue climbing towards the pass, keeping to the left (you may spot some chamois). Arrive at the Col de Pourtanelle (beautiful view to the west).
(8) Climb up the grassy slopes of the wide ridge on the left (southbound). There is a small path on the western slope, about fifteen metres below the ridge line. Higher up, the path becomes more pronounced as it approaches the ridge line. After a long and steady climb, you will reach the Cap des Gragnots plateau (large cairn).
(9) After a brief respite, the climb continues without interruption to the summit. The path, which has been fairly clear up to this point, becomes less distinct as you climb. For the final section, you may need to use your hands to climb over large boulders. This climb up the ridge, in addition to the landscapes it offers, also allows you to admire flights of eagles (quite numerous during our hike). Reach the summit of Pic des Trois Seigneurs. See chapter During the hike or nearby.
(11) Descend to the left, via the south-east ridge, following the yellow markings. First descend to the right of the ridge to avoid a cliff, then return to the ridge via a small, somewhat exposed ledge. This first section is a little steep and requires the use of your hands to climb over the rocky outcrops. Once you reach the pass, all the difficulties are behind you. Climb up opposite to the summit of Pic de Crède.
(12) Continue along the ridge. There are a few passages where you will need to use your hands, but they are not particularly difficult. All along the ridge, markings help you to avoid the most difficult sections. As you progress towards the Col de la Couillate, enjoy beautiful views overlooking the various lakes located about 400 m below. Continue the descent to the lowest point of the Col de la Couillate.
(13) Descend to the left, following a path (northbound - yellow markings). This will take you to the Étang Bleu, which you will follow on the right until you reach its spillway.
(14) Without crossing it, continue to the right, following a clearly visible path (eastbound). After crossing the Jasse de l'Étang Bleu, the path enters the forest and joins the Ruisseau de Barataus. Follow the clearly marked path, which descends rapidly through the forest, moving away from the stream.
Depending on the humidity, be careful of moss-covered stones, which can be slippery.
(15) When you reach a wide forest road, turn left and descend to the bridge over the Courbière stream.
(1) Turn right and follow the Courbière to the car park (S/E).
