Circular Artax via the Étang Bleu de la Courbière

Date of your route : Sep 11, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★☆☆ Average
Ease of following the route : ★★★☆☆ Average
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Hike completed on 11 and 12 September over two days with a bivouac at the Blue Pond (with a 12kg rucksack on my shoulders, I should point out)
Departure from the village of Gourbit around 10 a.m. The climb to the Artaks pond is well marked and requires some effort as it is steep in places, but nothing insurmountable (remember to pace yourself).
From the Artax pond, I headed towards Pla de Madame (a very steep climb). First along the well-marked path, then I cut through the vegetation to avoid going to Roc de Querquéou (no visible path). Once you reach the plateau, you find the path to Pic de Bassibié with beautiful, unobstructed climbs(superb view).
Then it gets complicated between points 7 and 8 because there are almost no tracks (apart from those left by herds). There is a passage at the top of the ridges over rocks that requires good footing and is not very reassuring. Then, to reach Pic de Pioulou, it's like Frodo, Sam and Gollum in The Lord of the Rings before Minas Morgul in the mountains: you cross wet areas without really knowing where to go, despite the GPX track. I had to slalom between rocks and pools to find the least steep slopes and make my way to the summit, where you finally find the path.
After that, there was a gale-force wind at the Col de la Couillate on the descent, but it was a relief compared to what I had just been through. The descent to the lakes is fairly easy, although you have to be careful as it is a little steep and slippery in places. I arrived at the blue lake at around 4.30 p.m. (finally...). A little rest, then camp in a magnificent setting.
We set off the next day, after waking up to fog, at around 8:30 a.m. The descent through the Cirque d'Embans is magnificent, with splendid landscapes and waterfalls. Be careful, as it is steep and slippery in some places. The path is very well marked, with beautiful sections through the forest and (easy) waterfall crossings, until point 12 (no worries). Then there is a forest road and tarmac road (finally some flat ground, which is good for the knees) to point 15, where you take a pleasant and fairly easy forest path. At 12:30pm, you arrive at the car park. In short, this is a beautiful hike with breathtaking views, but it does require a fair amount of effort in some places. Enjoy the walk to those who want to try this loop.

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Date of your route : Aug 24, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Hike completed on 24/08/2025. Good weather. Few people except from the blue ponds to the lower car park.
Tip: from the start to the Artax refuges, the climb is steady and pleasant, but it's best to pace yourself. After that and until you reach Pic de Pioulou, there are almost no landmarks, so you need to check your GPS (thank you, Visorando!) and often walk straight ahead through thick grass, heather and blueberry bushes. This makes it difficult to find a rhythm and quickly becomes tiring. However, the landscape is breathtaking.
The descent is long and difficult from the blue ponds, and sometimes even dangerous. When you reach the road, even if it's only for a few kilometres, you'll appreciate being able to walk without looking at your feet!
It's worth noting that there is a small car park near the town hall, which is very useful.

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Date of your route : Sep 02, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★☆☆ Average
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

We did a circular from Gourbit to the Blue Ponds car park.
No problems from Gourbit to Artax, the signposting is perfect, as it is from the blue ponds to the car park.
However, there are no markings between the two ponds. The site is magnificent but quite dangerous with some difficult passages. You need to take a GPS tracker with you to avoid getting lost.
Nevertheless, I recommend this hike, which is difficult but enjoyable.

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Date of your route : Sep 25, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★☆☆ Average
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

Hello,

We did the hike on Saturday 16/09. It took us 6 hours and 40 minutes, compared to the 10 hours advertised.
The route is well marked up to the Artax lake. Between the Artax lake and the Pic de Pioulou, the route does not correspond to a path, so we had to cut across the slope (the climb is fairly easy but there is low vegetation).
We found a marked trail again, but it quickly disappeared, so we crossed the slopes between Pic de Pioulou and Col de Couillate.
The descent to the Etang Bleu lake is via the Pic des Trois Seigneurs trail. The descent to Rabat is then easy.
It's a shame that the end of the route is along the road.

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Date of your route : Jun 12, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A very beautiful hike with incredible scenery!
However, although the path is extremely well marked up to the Artax refuge and again from the blue lake, the same cannot be said for the rest of the hike. There are no more signs and the path is very difficult to see in places (or even non-existent). There are still a few patches of snow in places, but nothing significant.

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Date of your route : Jun 13, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★☆☆ Average
Ease of following the route : ★★★☆☆ Average
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

Hike done in reverse order. From Gourbit to the Freyte car park, which is uninteresting (walk along a country road in the forest).
From the Freyte car park to the Etang Bleu, it was very good, with a magnificent arrival in the cirque in that direction. We camped at the Etang Bleu. The next day, we extended our hike by going to the Pic des 3 Seigneurs. The section from the Col de la Couillate to the Col de Bassibé is very nice.
However, the descent from this pass and the Artax pond is not a path. It is off-trail on the side of the mountain. The trail took us to a very steep section, so we shifted the trail to descend via a more accessible route. When we rejoined the trail, it was still not a real path but through the shrubs and vegetation. The end of the Artas pond at Gourbit is easy and well marked.

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Date of your route : May 30, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Very, very good hike
unfortunately, the weather was not on my side...
A bit of snow on some slopes (very difficult to climb)
As mentioned in previous comments, it's easy to get lost between the two lakes and go off-trail, even with GPS!
I spent the night at the Embanels hut. The hut is in ruins but very nice for sleeping and lighting a fire in the fireplace
I recommend this hike 100%

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Hello,
It should be possible to find a small flat spot (with dense vegetation, nonetheless) at Pic du Bassidié, but it may be windy and there will be no water.
In my humble opinion, it would be a shame not to camp at the blue pond by the lake. There are quite a few spots, fire pits, and you're not really on top of each other...

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Hello, everyone!
is it possible to camp between the two lakes (Artax and Étang Bleu), or do we have to stay at one of these two lakes?
Thank you in advance for your reply!

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Date of your route : Sep 05, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A superb two-day hike (it's much better when you're not in peak condition, and you can enjoy swimming in the two lakes) with a bivouac at Etang Bleu on Saturday evening (not many flat spots to pitch a tent, but several springs available), and departure in the mist on Sunday.
In fact, on Sunday I noticed that the entire route from Etang d'Artax was shrouded in mist all day, which must not have been great for those who wanted to do it on Sunday; so it's best to do it in good weather to enjoy everything (and there's no shortage of that).
There are few markings/kerns between Etang d'Artax and Etang Bleu, so you either need to be able to navigate by sight (which is even more difficult in foggy conditions) or follow the GPS track carefully to avoid straying onto one of the many paths trodden by cows, especially at the start of Etang d'Artax where it's easy to lose the trail...
The route is very busy up to Etang d'Artax, then quiet until Etang Bleu, where there is a little traffic.
You can skip the climb to Pioulou if you need to save your energy and go straight on.
The descent is magnificent but sometimes steep and slippery from the Etang Bleu to the large car park at La Freyte ("point 13"), where it should be noted that just above there is a very large and beautiful campsite (2 nights allowed); it can be used as a starting/return point (there is a chip shop at the car park, open from 11am from early June to late September).
The last 5km (not bad at all in my opinion, we're not on a main road...) can be made a little more pleasant halfway along the tarmac by crossing the river on the right via a large wooden bridge and then following the river along a path on the other bank, where you follow a large water pipe to point 15.
Worth doing again in autumn for the colours.

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Date of your route : Jul 19, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★☆☆ Average
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : Yes

A splendid hike under a blazing sun.
However, there are no markings between the two lakes (Artax & Bleu), making it difficult to find your way, especially between the two peaks.
Otherwise, this hike is particularly beautiful due to the diversity of the landscapes (forests, lakes, mountains, views of the valley, etc.)
However, the last 5 km are uninteresting.
I RECOMMEND it, but advise caution between the two peaks.

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Date of your route : Jul 13, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

This hike is physically demanding and requires a great deal of attention to follow the route.
You need to be well shod to do it.
I was unlucky with the weather (threat of thunderstorms and rain).
The edge of the blue lake is definitely the right place to sit down and enjoy the passing time!
I will definitely do it again, crossing my fingers for good weather.
Enjoy!

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Date of your route : Jul 09, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★☆☆☆ Disappointing
Ease of following the route : ★★★☆☆ Average
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

A long and demanding hike, quite exotic as you encounter very few people, especially at the top. The trail is signposted between the lakes and the bottom, but for the rest, i.e. above the lakes, it's a bit of an adventure and I went off-trail several times... So be careful, even if you always know roughly where you are...

It took me 6 hours and 45 minutes in total (due to a storm at the end of the day, I had to hurry...), with more than 1,600 metres of elevation gain according to my GPS and more than 22 kilometres, which, I repeat, makes it a demanding hike.
The tarmac section at the bottom (a few kilometres) is a bit long and monotonous despite the setting...

I'll probably do it again...

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Date of your route : May 19, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

I chose a route that goes over the Lastris Pass and along the ridges (Querqueou-Pla de Madame) overlooking the Etang d'Artax. Access to Bassibié is easy, then a short rocky passage at the Bassibié Pass leads to some pretty little lakes, from which access to Pioulou is fairly obvious. Here, I had to cross a steep snowfield about twenty metres wide. From Pioulou, the route to the Col de la Couillate offers a splendid view of the Massif des Trois Seigneurs, the Etang Bleu and the neighbouring lakes that gradually come into view. With a pair of binoculars, you can even see the crosses planted on the Pic des Trois Seigneurs. On 19 May 2020, the descent from the Col de la Couillate to the Étang Bleu was made on a long snowfield that was fortunately not frozen. The most delicate part of this route is the passage and foot of the Cirque d'Embans, where the ground was wet and slippery, and my walking sticks were particularly useful in preventing me from slipping.
The only negative aspect of this circular route is the section along the road. For a bit of variety, I recommend leaving the road by crossing the small bridge on the right after the water intake of the penstock. You can then reach the power station through the woods. Be careful, as the small path leading from the power station to Gourbit is not easy to find. The climb to Gourbit is quite pleasant.

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Date of your route : May 23, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A magnificent hike, but be careful: between the two ponds there are no markings and the path is often non-existent. Fortunately, we had the GPS track, so we walked in the right direction with the GPS, trying to stick as closely as possible to the recorded track. Without the GPS track and GPS, this circular route could have ended in a helicopter ride.

There were many of us and we wanted to take it easy, spending time by the ponds, so we planned three half-days. We needed them:
- on the first day, we set off at the end of the day, a 2½-hour climb with heavy rucksacks loaded with two days' worth of food and bivouac equipment (900m elevation gain), first bivouac at the Artax pond (absolutely fantastic)
- the next day, we walked for five hours to the Blue Pond (snowy passages slowed us down considerably), and spent our second night camping below the Blue Pond, which was gloomy in the mist, in an open meadow with a magnificent view.
- on the third day, we cut across the north-east path (the outward leg of the Étang Bleu circular, 3 hours' descent) to avoid the dangerous descent into the Cirque d'Embans because there was a lot of mist and the troops were getting tired.

It was a fantastic trip, with swimming, glorious sunshine, snowball fights, unspoilt nature (absolutely no paths ^^) and an eerie misty lake! Dozens of dead toads were lying in the Blue Pond. Perhaps this should be reported, but I don't know to whom..

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