Discovery tour of Haussmann's Paris

Baron Haussmann transformed Paris between 1852 and 1870. The 9th arrondissement of Paris is the epicentre of this transformation: the new roads, grand boulevards and crossroads highlight the buildings adapted to life under the Second Empire, including department stores, the opera house, theatres, music halls, churches, press headquarters, banks, covered passages, Morris columns, kiosks, etc. This tour will introduce you to the witnesses of this era and how they have adapted to today's Paris.

Details

235918
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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 3.46 km
  • ◔
    Average duration: 1h 00 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Easy

  • ⚐
    Back to start: No
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 4 m
  • ↘
    Descent: - 14 m

  • ▲
    Highest point: 46 m
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 31 m
  • ⚐ Country: France
  • ⚐ District: Paris (75000)
  • ⚑
    Start: N 48.878824° / E 2.322543°
  • ⚑
    End: N 48.872° / E 2.33965°
  • ❏
    IGN map(s): Ref. 2314OT
  • Hour-by-hour weather

Photos

Description of the walk

Departure from Europe metro station (line 3).

(S) Go around Place de l'Europe on the right (south) and turn right onto Rue de Londres. At number 43, enter Gare Saint-Lazare on your right: explore this building, with its passageways and halls, then exit onto Cour du Havre.

(1) From the Cour du Havre, turn left (east) onto Rue Saint-Lazare. Continue to Square Estienne d'Orves (Sainte-Trinité church on the left).

(2) Cross Rue Saint-Lazare, walk along it on the right for a few metres and turn left onto Rue Mogador. You can enter the Galeries Lafayette or Printemps department stores on your left to admire the magnificent domes.

Continue along Rue de Mogador and, at the end, turn right onto Boulevard Haussmann.

(3) At the "middle" of the Printemps department store, turn left onto Rue de Caumartin, then immediately left onto Rue Auber. At the beginning of Rue des Mathurins, on your left, you will see the old baths with their Moorish architecture.

Opposite numbers 8 and 6 on Rue Auber, turn right onto Rue Boudreau and walk a few metres. Then turn left onto Square de l'Opéra Louis Jouvet, cross Place Edouard VII and continue along the street of the same name.

(4) Turn left onto Boulevard des Capucines (along this boulevard, you will see beautiful buildings and reminders of the past).

Cross Place de l'Opéra (admire the main façade) and continue along Boulevard des Capucines. Continue along Boulevard des Italiens (more beautiful discoveries, see the section "During the walk...").

On the left, after No. 30 Boulevard des Italiens, look for the large clock on the former headquarters of the newspaper "Le Temps" on the street of the same name. Opposite No. 15 Boulevard des Italiens, enjoy a view of the Sacré-Cœur Basilica and Notre Dame de Lorette.

At No. 13, turn right onto Rue Marivaux, then left onto Place Boieldieu. Admire the south façade of the Opéra-Comique and walk around the building, taking Rue Favart. Return to Boulevard des Italiens and walk along it on the right-hand side.

At No. 5 Boulevard des Italiens, turn right into Passage des Princes. This passage turns left at a right angle and emerges onto Rue de Richelieu. Turn left and head for the Richelieu-Drouot metro station (lines 8 and 9) (E).

Waypoints

  1. S : km 0 - alt. 45 m - Europe metro station (line 3)
  2. 1 : km 0.65 - alt. 33 m - From the Cour du Havre, head east.
  3. 2 : km 1.15 - alt. 33 m - Walk south along Rue de Mogador.
  4. 3 : km 1.71 - alt. 32 m - Take Rue Auber, heading southeast.
  5. 4 : km 2.18 - alt. 35 m - Bd des Capucines: turn left ENE
  6. E : km 3.46 - alt. 35 m - Richelieu Drouot metro station (lines 8 and 9)

Notes

If you have followed this walk, please send us your comments (descriptions, photos, etc.).

Worth a visit

This walk is the result of an outing organised by the association "Les Cafés Géographiques" – I would like to express my sincere thanks to Sylvie Gazannois, the tour guide, who gave such an insightful interpretation of these places and their history.
Hikers can access all the sources used by clicking on the Internet links (in blue on the website and the "Visorando" app): I would like to thank the organisations and their contributors who are the sources of the content for this "discovery trail".

Haussmann's Paris
Baron Haussmann transformed Paris between 1852 and 1870. The 9th arrondissement of Paris was at the epicentre of this transformation.
This momentum lasted for a century, shaping Paris and other European cities.
In terms of urban planning, this resulted in major breakthroughs, boulevards, large crossroads, etc. (History and geography website of the Bordeaux Academy).

The Place de l'Europe, which dates back to 1823, is a fine example of a star-shaped square.

The buildings from the Haussmann period were constructed between 1868 and 1872.
Their façades are made of cut stone. The dwellings and flats are distributed over seven levels, including the ground floor and attic. Social stratification is organised under the same roof. The ground floor and mezzanine (levels 1 and 2) are modest both socially and architecturally. The first floor (level 3) is the noble floor, the most elaborate, with large flats. The second and third floors (levels 4 and 5) are more traditional. The fourth floor is more modest. The top floor is used as attic space or service flats.
The balconies on the first and fourth floors are one of the most striking features of Haussmann-style buildings. They are generally "continuous", i.e. they run from one end of the building to the other. All these specifications mean that these balconies sometimes form a continuous line along the street.

Saint-Lazare station
St Lazare and the stations that preceded it.
The interior, glass roofs and painted glass from 1930.

The Church of the Holy Trinity
On the edge of two rapidly developing neighbourhoods, Saint Lazare and the new Athènes, the parish needed a place of worship adapted to demographic changes as early as 1860. In 1867, Hausmann solemnly handed over this church to Monsignor Darboy.
In the photo: the south façade in front of Square Etienne d'Orves. The somewhat eclectic style of Sainte-Trinité is typical of the Second Empire. Some of the façades of railway stations built during this period have the same appearance... The three statues in the foreground represent the Trinity.

Mogador district
Mogador, a reminder of the Franco-Moroccan War.
At 25 Rue de Mogador, the Theatre
At 20: a superb investment property

Bd Haussmann, the department stores
The dome of Galeries Lafayette
Le Printemps

The Square de l'Opéra Louis Jouvet, then the square and Rue Edouard VII
Pégase and the poet
Place Edouard VII is the heart of a block.
Its current appearance is the result of a vast urban planning and real estate programme initiated in 1911 by a real estate company and carried out by the architect Nénot.
This block is designed and perceived as a single entity, with its shops, offices, grand hotel and small theatre. It was opened up to the rest of the neighbourhood by the creation of Edouard VII Street, Square and Passage.
Note: the fluted pillars are topped with Corinthian capitals, spanning two floors and embellishing the façade with a colossal order. Beneath the windows with their railings, bas-reliefs illustrate the arts.

Boulevard des Capucines
At 1 Rue Scribe: the Hôtel Scribe, with a witness to the Enlightenment brothers.
Opposite, at 35 Boulevard des Capucines, a building with a beautiful red glass roof, a reminder of the studio built by Nadar (famous photographer).
At the corner of Rue Scribe and Boulevard des Capucines: the former "Old England" store, which closed in 2012.
At 27 Boulevard des Capucines, a green building with glass roofs: La Samaritaine de Luxe is a fine example of Art Nouveau architecture.
At 12 Boulevard des Capucines, Le Grand Hôtel

Opéra district
The Opéra Garnier
Description of the façade
Other source
At 8 Boulevard des Capucines: two plaques on either side of the wooden door bear witness to the former Paris headquarters of Gresham Life Assurance Limited. Offenbach later lived there from 1876, composing The Tales of Hoffmann and passing away in 1880.
At 2 Boulevard des Capucines, the Gaumont Opéra

Boulevard des Italiens area
No. 5-7 Rue des Italiens is a post-Haussmannian style building. It was built in 1911 by architect Jean-Jacques Fernier. Its façade features a monumental clock. It was formerly the headquarters of the newspaper Le Temps between 1861 and 1942, then that of the newspaper Le Monde from 1944 to 1989.
Since 1999, it has been occupied by the financial division of the Paris Court of First Instance.
No. 17-23, Boulevard des Italiens: Crédit Lyonnais

Opposite 15 Boulevard des Italiens: a visual escape to the Sacré-Cœur Basilica in Montmartre and Notre-Dame de Lorette (see photo)
Visual vistas breathe life into the built environment, connecting neighbourhoods to symbolic locations in the city. They reinforce the sense of identity among residents of outlying neighbourhoods, linking them to the city as a whole.
For this reason, they are included in urban planning schedules and constraints.
Although this visual vista is almost confidential, Hausmann's breakthroughs have created many such vistas towards Paris's iconic monuments.
At 1 Place Boieldieu, the Opéra-Comique.
At 5 Boulevard des Italiens, the Passage des Princes opens up.
Covered passages predate the Haussmann era.
The Passage des Princes, dating from 1860, is one of the last passages to have been created. It is also more sober in appearance than older passages.
This passage connects Boulevard des Italiens to Rue Richelieu at a right angle.

Reviews and comments

4.5 / 5
Based on 8 reviews

Reliability of the description
4.9 / 5
Ease of following the route
4.8 / 5
Route interest
4 / 5
Nadette Pat
Nadette Pat

Overall rating : 3.7 / 5

Date of your route : Sep 20, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★☆☆ Average
Very busy route : Yes

What's the point of taking us under the tracks at Saint Lazare station when there are such beautiful buildings to see outside? A very short walk through busy and well-known streets, we didn't discover anything new...

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scandosio
scandosio

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Feb 21, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★☆☆ Average
Very busy route : No

Moderate hike, unfortunately partly in the rain.
Best regards

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marc-educ-pop
marc-educ-pop

Very happy !
I created this hike six and a half years ago.

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marc-educ-pop
marc-educ-pop

Very happy !

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joelle C&R
joelle C&R

We went hiking on Sunday, 13 November 2022.

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joelle C&R
joelle C&R

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Nov 14, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A superb discovery of Haussmannian Paris, there were 32 of us!
It was a very sunny day and we were able to enjoy the first Christmas window displays at Printemps department store.
We continued on to the Opera, Parc Monceau and the Trocadéro district.

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Elisabeth.cony
Elisabeth.cony

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Sep 06, 2018
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good

I appreciated the links to points of interest along the route, which allowed me to find out more about them.

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bedi78
bedi78

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 13, 2018
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

Route completed on Sunday in ideal weather conditions.
The Princes' Passage was closed, so I went via La Tête dans les Nuages, where the security guard showed me how to access this part of the walk. No one was in the unusual passageway, which is a must-see. Beautiful glass roof and old-fashioned shops. Exit onto Rue de Richelieu as indicated on the route.

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marc-educ-pop
marc-educ-pop

Glad you enjoyed the walk

This Saturday we took a cross-city trip through Paris

The weather wasn't great,

but for the people of Reims and others, Paris remains a celebration, even if the Eiffel Tower was hidden by clouds.

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Marc-T
Marc-T

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Mar 14, 2018
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good

An opportunity to see beautiful buildings, not to mention a foray into the luxury of department stores. It's discovering a railway station transformed into a shopping centre!!!

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Millepertuis
Millepertuis

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Feb 04, 2018
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good

We went on this hike on Sunday, 4 February, the first sunny day in a long time. A nice bonus at the end of the hike was a very enjoyable visit to the Opéra Comique.

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martinlot
martinlot

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Oct 30, 2017
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good

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