The peaks of Garlaban

This hike will allow you to discover a large part of the Garlaban massif. In my opinion, it is one of the most beautiful. The views from the peaks are superb. From the summit of Grande Tête Rouge, you can see all of Marseille from Callelongue to L'Estaque, and from Garlaban, the Gulf of La Ciotat and Cassis.

Details

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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 14.21 km
  • ◔
    Average duration: 6h 45 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Difficult

  • ⚐
    Back to start: Yes
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 952 m
  • ↘
    Descent: - 943 m

  • ▲
    Highest point: 709 m
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 245 m
  • ⚐ Country: France
  • ⚐ District: Allauch (13190)
  • ⚑
    Start/End: N 43.325468° / E 5.513741°
  • ❏
    IGN map(s): Ref. 3145ET
  • Hour-by-hour weather

Photos

Description of the walk

Park in the car park located after Marcel Pagnol's La Bastide Neuve holiday home.

(S/E) Head north, go through the gate; there is a cistern on the left. Start walking along this track and take the well-marked paths that cut across the hairpin bends. You will reach a long open area where several paths branch off on either side.

(1) Ignore the path on the right, which will be used on the way back, and continue straight ahead on the track that runs alongside "Tête Ronde".
Our destination is on the left (higher up) on the opposite side of the cisterns, which is the direction to take.
Further on, at the fork, leave the track on the right that leads to Jas de Batisto and keep to the left. Go through two hairpin bends.

(2) Keep an eye out for the small path on your left that allows you to cross the small valley (stream bed) to the opposite slope. There is an old brown marker that helps you cross this small valley before rejoining the track on the opposite slope near the cisterns.

(3) Leave the track that heads north to the right. Turn left onto the track that leads further on to the start of the path to climb thefirst peak: Grande Tête Rouge.

Before that, take the opportunity to discover the two magnificent built springs of Le Laurier. To do so, first turn right at the first crossroads to reach a narrow cultivated area. Turn left to reach the first spring, then left again towards the track. Cross over to the opposite side towards the ruins to discover the second spring.

Return to the track and continue to the left. Keep to the right at the fork and walk about 50 metres, paying close attention to spot the small path (cairn) that branches off to the right, heading due north.

(4) Turn right to begin the fairly steep ascent of Grande Tête Rouge. Follow the well-marked path to reach the summit, stopping occasionally to admire the landscape.

(5) The view from the summit is magnificent. Admire the 360° landscape and take some photos. Then return to the path and begin the descent. Ignore the two paths that branch off to the left and join the track below at a multiple crossroads.
Cross the track and take the small path opposite. Leave thefirst path on the right and continue to the fork towards Pas dei Menoun.

(6) Turn right, cross Pas dei Menoun and you will find yourself under a rocky overhang, which is a good place to stop for a snack. Be sure to take advantage of this location to visit the Berger cave on the left, with its goats drawn on the walls and the shepherd's shelter with its small nativity scene and vintage figurines. This visit is a round trip. Take the path back towards the north-east.
Continue downhill and keep an eye out for the path that branches off to the right and leads to the Étoile cave. It would be a shame to miss this curiosity. Turn right and you will reach the cave.

For the more adventurous, you can enter this cave and explore a 30-metre tunnel that is very accessible. A head torch is essential. You will need to crawl a little at the start, but then you can walk upright. Be careful not to bump your head. This is a round trip. Please note that groups can only enter the tunnel five or six people at a time.

To turn back and continue the descent to the stream bed, you must cross the Escaouprés valley and find yourself on the opposite slope. Engravings can be seen on the flat rocks in the immediate vicinity of the stream bed.
Cross the stream and take the path on the left to reach the fork towards Pas du Loup.

(7) Take the fairly steep path on the right that leads to Pas du Loup. Cross it and you will find yourself on the ridge at a crossroads. Take the path on the left towards Taoumé,the second peak to climb.
Signposts are in place to help you find your way.
Begin the ascent: as you climb, you will see the famous cave beloved by Mr Pagnol, the Grotte du Grosibou, on your right. You can enter it and even cross through it to return to the starting point (be careful when crossing, however, as the descent to rejoin the path that goes around the cave is difficult). Continue to the summit.

(8) Admire the 360° view. Then begin the descent to reach the track below. There are several options for the descent: take the path that branches off to the right and leads to the Col de Baume Sourne.

(9) Be careful not to miss the path that branches off to the right just before the track and passes in front of the Baume Sourne cave. It is essential to visit this cave as it may be closed off one day to protect a colony of bats.
Continue along the path and, at the fork, keep left to reach Puits du Mûrier.

(10) This is a lovely spot sheltered from the wind, perfect for lunch. At the crossroads just after, take the path that branches off to the right and heads uphill towards Garlaban via Plan de l'Aigle.
Markings painted on a stone will help you choose the right path. Ignore a path branching off to the left further on and continue to a wide track. Garlaban stands directly ahead, impossible to miss. Follow the track straight ahead to reach Col du Garlaban.

(11) There are several paths available to climb to the summit. Take the one that best suits your ability.

(12) Summit of Garlaban: admire the 360° view. The cross standing majestically at the summit is the emblem of Garlaban.
It's time to head back down. As with the ascent, take the trail that seems most suitable for you and head back to the pass.

(11) Cross the track and take the path opposite, which first heads west, then turns south-west and joins the Vallon des Piches. At the first fork at Pas Heath, continue to the left. Follow this magnificent balcony path overlooking the Vallon des Piches.
Further on, turn right. Pass Col de Salis and, just after, on the left above you, you will see Baume du Plantier or Baume de Manon, which you can visit. Then continue along the path. Further on, ignore a path on the left and you will come to a crossroads where you should turn right to descend into the Passe Temps valley.

(13) Pay attention to spot the path that branches off to the right towards the north. Do not take the well-marked path on the right, which you will join later. From there, the path becomes less marked but still visible, slightly covered by vegetation. Continue climbing towards Jas de la Badoque. Pass the ruins and join the well-marked path that climbs to La Garette.

(14) Pay attention to spot the path that branches off to the left. Leave the path that branches off to the right, turn left and continue until you reach a larger path (small track) heading south-west to a fork.

(15) Keep to the right. Continue along this track, taking the shortcut paths whenever possible to cut out several bends, and return to the junction of the circular.

(1) Turn left to return to the car park via the same route you took on the way there (S/E).

Waypoints

  1. S/E : km 0 - alt. 258 m - Rapons car park
  2. 1 : km 0.63 - alt. 328 m - Crossroads of the circular
  3. 2 : km 1.11 - alt. 336 m - Small path on the left
  4. 3 : km 1.33 - alt. 371 m - Track towards "Grande Tête Rouge"
  5. 4 : km 1.97 - alt. 370 m - Cairn - trail on the right
  6. 5 : km 2.32 - alt. 519 m - Grande Tête Rouge
  7. 6 : km 2.87 - alt. 465 m - Fork towards Pas Dei Menoun
  8. 7 : km 4.13 - alt. 428 m - Fork towards Pas du Loup
  9. 8 : km 4.98 - alt. 659 m - Pic du Taoumé
  10. 9 : km 5.65 - alt. 623 m - Turn right towards Baume Sourne. - Col de la Baume Sourne (623m)
  11. 10 : km 6.16 - alt. 597 m - Puits du Murier
  12. 11 : km 7.78 - alt. 628 m - Col de Garlaban (628m)
  13. 12 : km 8.25 - alt. 709 m - Summit - Garlaban
  14. 13 : km 11.51 - alt. 258 m - Path on the right
  15. 14 : km 12.1 - alt. 364 m - Turn right at the fork.
  16. 15 : km 12.62 - alt. 384 m - Fourche
  17. S/E : km 14.21 - alt. 258 m - Car park

Notes

This is a fairly challenging hike, so wear good shoes and bring plenty of water.
Check access authorisations for the mountain range before setting off on this hike.
Not recommended in strong winds due to the risk of fire.

Worth a visit

Grotte du Berger, Grotte de l'Etoile, Grotte du Grosibou, Grotte de Baume Sourne, Baume du Plantier.
Grande Tête Rouge, Pic du Taoumé, Le Garlaban.
Source du Laurier.

Reviews and comments

4.7 / 5
Based on 9 reviews

Reliability of the description
4.6 / 5
Ease of following the route
4.4 / 5
Route interest
5 / 5
patrick55
patrick55

It is indeed a very beautiful hike, and a challenging one at that.
As for the car park, it is privately owned by Marcel Pagnol's grandson.
I've been meaning to note that for a while, but you've done it, great!
Happy hiking!

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ArnaudFou
ArnaudFou

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Nov 17, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A very beautiful hike completed on 12 November. Some difficulty finding the trail in places where vegetation has reclaimed its rights; you have to check the trail regularly to avoid getting lost. Varied landscapes alternating between tracks, paths and single tracks. Caves and springs too. Beautiful views of Marseille and the region throughout the walk.

Parking at the start is not easy, as it seems to have been privatised. So you have to find a spot on the narrow road that ends in a cul-de-sac.

Just before the ascent of Pic du Taoumé, part of the route was closed due to the risk of falling rocks. I couldn't find another way, so I took a risk and proceeded with caution. The closed section isn't very long, but you can clearly see that rocks have fallen down the slope and broken.

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patrick55
patrick55

Thank you for your review. It's true that this hike is a real classic in the magnificent Garlaban massif. All the best, and well done, because this hike is quite challenging.

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emmanuel serena
emmanuel serena
• Edited:

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Jan 18, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Superb hike, beautiful climb to reach the summit of 'Tête Rouge'. The views are magnificent from Tête Rouge, Pic du Taoumé, and the summit of Garlaban. Being from the region, we did this circular in January, so we didn't suffer from the heat or restrictions on access to the mountains during the summer. Please note that access to 'Baume Sourne' is now prohibited (fence). You can make a very slight detour after Baume du Plantier (where Manon's cave is located) to visit Baume du Cerf just above. The last few kilometres to complete the circular route are not the most pleasant...
There was hardly anyone around except at Garlaban.
At the end of our route, the GPS showed 14.84 km in 6 hours and 4 minutes with an elevation profile of 942 m (244 m/698 m).
The next day, we did part of the "Manon Cave via the Chemin des Scolopendres and the Marcellin Valley" hike (no. 4545558). Nice, but nothing special after this magnificent route... The main interest of this second walk was an unplanned extension to reach the engraving trails.
In short, a very beautiful walk that comes highly recommended!

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meyraud
meyraud

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Sep 16, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A lovely hike, challenging in places, which mostly follows little-used paths, except around Garlaban. Beautiful views from the three peaks: Tête Rouge, Taoumé and Garlaban. The climb up Tête Rouge can easily be avoided by staying in the valley below Taoumé.

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patrick55
patrick55

It is indeed a very beautiful hike, but difficult at the same time.
You are rewarded at the summit with magnificent views.
Thank you for your feedback. I'll make a note of it for the next time I lead a group.

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Jfred13
Jfred13
• Edited:

Overall rating : 3.7 / 5

Date of your route : May 04, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★☆☆ Average
Ease of following the route : ★★★☆☆ Average
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A superb hike that I would classify as difficult. Our GPS gave us a distance of 17 km and 1,200 m of elevation gain. For 7 hours of walking. We are used to these 6 or 6.5-hour hikes. (Advanced level) Viso gave 14.2 km and 804 m of elevation gain. The three peaks offer breathtaking views and some very nice spots. Ice caves, grottos, panoramic views... The last 2 km are poorly marked and thorny bushes invade the very narrow path, so wear trousers...
I recommend it...

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Aldofsta
Aldofsta

Date of hike: Thursday, 27 October 2022
Interest of the hiking route: Very good
Busy route: No

We did this hike by turning right after No. 1 until we reached the original route at Pas du Loup (between 7 and 8). The yellow markings have been redone recently. They are easy to follow.
Then, at point No. 9, the yellow markings indicating the direction of Garlaban (on a stone on the ground) lead you to avoid the small path branching off to the left towards the Baume Sourme cave, taking the path that passes along the south-eastern flank of Taoumé.You then rejoin the original route by taking a small path that descends to the left into the mini-valley and then climbs back up after the cave to rejoin the hiking route before point 10. The idea is to prevent people from accessing the cave and disturbing the bats (let's leave them in peace!).
Finally, at point 13, we turned left at the bottom of the valley and exited by passing between the rocky outcrops. The atmosphere is great!

Overall, the route we took is fairly well marked (yellow markings).

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Laura Gnre
Laura Gnre

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Jun 30, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★☆☆ Average
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

The trail was poorly marked, and we made several mistakes along the way. In my opinion, the Visorando route takes you on lots of unnecessary shortcuts, as we had to push through thorny bushes regularly, which was not pleasant. The hike is still very physically demanding in hot weather, so be sure to bring plenty of water and sun protection.

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palama
palama

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : May 03, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : Yes

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lafifi
lafifi

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Oct 10, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

This hike is certainly challenging, but it offers splendid views of the entire region (Marseille, the Etoile massif, Sainte Victoire, Sainte Baume, the Calanques massif, etc.).
However, at point 13, the path to Jas de Badoque is, as described, overgrown with vegetation and the argelas are very aggressive . At point 13, I recommend taking the path that branches off to the right and passes above the ruins of Jas de Badoque.
Apart from this small section, we thoroughly enjoyed ourselves.

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culigan
culigan

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Mar 07, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

A very beautiful, fairly challenging hike, but the magnificent views are well worth the effort.
However, we were lucky to have the GPX/GPS track for the end of the hike, as the path was not easy to find, especially since it is not frequently used.
But apart from this minor detail, it's a very beautiful and enjoyable hike, but one that's best suited to fairly fit people.

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Micka_38
Micka_38

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Mar 16, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

A very pretty route that is a bit challenging

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