The Puy de Dôme from Laschamps

In Laschamps, park just outside the village, on the right-hand side of the Route de Beaune-le-Chaud, in the car park for hikers and the picnic area (yellow directional signs).

(S/E) Head towards the forest at the back of the car park, but do not take the path marked by the^GR®® (red and white) and a whole bunch of other colours. Instead, take the path that branches off to the right of^{the GR®®} and leads to the horse paddocks. At the intersection, continue to the right on a path that is not shown on the IGN map, still between the paddocks. You will come to a road, the D52, at a cross.

(1) Turn left onto a path that runs alongside the road. Just before the D52 intersects with a larger road, the D942, pass under the high-voltage power line and continue on the (basic) picnic area to take a path that branches off to the left and runs alongside the D942. You will come to a path; turn right to join the D942 at the Col de la Moréno.

(2) Cross the D942 and take the small road opposite between the two hotels. It quickly leads to another road. Continue to the right and, about 100 metres further on, turn right onto the path. Shortly afterwards, ignore a path (not shown on the map) that descends to the left.

(3) A little further on, take a path on the left. Continue along this well-marked path through the undergrowth, ignoring two more or less abandoned paths on the right, then continuing straight ahead at an intersection with another poorly maintained path. You will finally come to another well-marked path.

(4) Follow it to the left. Shortly afterwards, ignore the wide path on the right. You will come to an intersection with a path marked in red and white (^GR®®441A). Turn right to join the D68.

(5) Note that, compared to the map, the^GR®® route has changed and now follows the road. However, cross the road and continue on the path opposite, formerly used by the^GR®®. At the intersection (not shown on the map) with another path, continue to the right. About 200 metres further on, continue along the path that turns left, following the old^GR®® markings, and shortly afterwards you will come back onto the road. Follow it to the left for a few metres to reach the Col de Ceyssat.

(6) Just after the first house, at the Col de Ceyssat sign, turn left and climb the stairs to find the yellow directional signs. Continue along the path towards the summit of Puy de Dôme. After a fairly easy start to the climb, you will reach the railway line. The Panoramique des Dômes train is the only way to reach the summit apart from hiking.

(7) Cross the tracks and continue straight ahead on the Chemin des Muletiers (no mountain bikes allowed), which climbs more steeply and winds around several bends. Fifteen numbered bends are necessary to reach a terrace near the restaurant. Continue climbing up a staircase to discover the Temple of Mercury at the top of the puy, which is currently being renovated but is already very impressive.

(8) After enjoying the view from the summit in good weather, retrace your steps to the Col de Ceyssat. If you didn't do so during the climb, pay attention to the information panels on the Chemin des Muletiers and the Col de Ceyssat that line the path.

(6) Turn left onto the road and then, at the bend, turn right onto the^GR®® trail (which you will follow to the end) marked in red and white and in the direction of Laschamps, as indicated by the yellow sign. Follow this beautiful path through the woods, which descends quite steeply at first, then becomes much flatter. Continue to follow the^GR®® markings, ignoring the few paths that branch off to the left and right.

(9) About 150 metres before you reach a road, you will see a tree with a small sign on the left side of the path. In this plantation of identical fir trees, this is a beautiful pine tree that has been preserved for biodiversity. Further on, cross the D942 road at the two crosses and continue straight ahead on a wide path, still following the red and white markings. You will come to a road at a cross at the entrance to Laschamps.

(10) Take the road on the right and, at the intersection marked by a cross surrounded by four pollarded trees, continue straight ahead. Leave the cemetery on your right and continue straight ahead towards the church. Cross the D767 and then cross the square to pass in front of the entrance to this small church. Turn right onto the street and then, at the intersection, take the alley on the left before turning immediately right onto the path that joins the Beaune-le-Chaud road, opposite the car park (S/E).

Moderately difficult hike, standard hiking equipment with possibly one or two walking sticks.

The difficulty of this route lies in the climb to the summit of Puy de Dôme from Col de Ceyssat (350 metres elevation gain). Be careful in summer! The climb is on the south side and there is no shade at all.
Be aware of the weather! It can be very cold at the summit of Puy de Dôme and the winds can be very strong. Bring warm, waterproof clothing with you.

Discover more hikes in this area with a description or the Visorando app here and more generally in the Puy-de-Dôme here

The challenges of Puy de Dôme

- Scientific challenges:
1684: Blaise Pascal, a native of the region, proves the existence of atmospheric pressure.
1876: inauguration of the first mountain weather observatory; 1956: installation of the television transmitter antenna.

- Sporting challenges:
1892: Fernand Ladoux cycles up the Chemin des Muletiers in 28 minutes, "hampered by stones, he had to stop about ten times, but to show that he would not walk a single metre, he would descend ten metres before getting back on his bicycle"!
1905: De Freignac climbed the same path by car, declaring "I have set a record, but I will not do it again"!
2006: Still on the same road, one of the fastest ascents on foot in 11 minutes and 7 seconds. On your marks...

- The rail challenge:
1907: Jean Claret succeeded in his challenge to equip the Puy de Dôme with a railway line, which immediately became a tourist attraction, particularly due to the beauty of the landscapes it offered.
1926: faced with the supremacy of petrol-powered cars, the railway line is transformed into a toll road.
2008: The General Council votes to build a rack railway, the Panoramique des Dômes, which will be inaugurated in June 2012.

The Temple of Mercury. It was in 1872, during the construction of the meteorological station, that the first remains of the temple were uncovered. The Chemin des Muletier was also restored at this time, as the fastest way to reach the summit. The temple, dedicated to the Roman god of travellers and merchants, dates from the 2nd century. It was an important place of pilgrimage. The temple was huge (3600m2) and could be seen from Augustonemetum (Clermont). Pilgrims used the Via Agrippa, which, on its route between Lyon and Saintes, made a detour via the Puy de Dôme. A secondary settlement therefore sprang up around the Col de Ceyssat, a sort of staging post for travellers.

The current name of the trail, Chemin des Muletier, is recent and probably dates from the late 19th century, when tourists, too lazy to walk uphill, hired mules! Its real name, used for much longer, is Chemin d'Allagnat, after a nearby village.