The Pic de Bertagne via the Pas de Cugens

Climb to the highest point of the Bouches-du-Rhône, located at the eastern end of the Sainte-Baume Massif.

Details

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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 16.47 km
  • ◔
    Average duration: 7h 35 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Difficult

  • ⚐
    Back to start: Yes
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 1,012 m
  • ↘
    Descent: - 1,013 m

  • ▲
    Highest point: 1,027 m
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 173 m

Photos

Description of the walk

On leaving Géménos, head towards Le Plan d'Aups – Sainte-Beaume and then join Parc Saint-Pons. Park on the left-hand side of the car park just before the private property.

(S/E) From the car park, go through the entrance gate and take the footbridge over the stream opposite.

Yellow-red signposts

Turn left and cross the car park. At the signpost, turn right towards "Abbaye Saint-Pons". Pass the toilets and the Maison du Parc.

(1) Keep following the paths on the right, crossing the park and the picnic area. Do not turn left at the signpost that crosses the stream again. You will come to the D2 just before a bridge. Cross the bridge and continue straight ahead.

Yellow-red + yellow signposts

Turn right and immediately left onto a path that runs alongside a drainage ditch and leads to the old Paradou factory (under renovation). The path crosses the ditch, turns right into the woods and passes a waterfall at the Moulin du Foulon. Continue along the path, ignoring two footbridges on the left, to reach a beautiful mill with a waterfall. You can make a round trip to the left to see the old Saint-Pons Abbey.

(2) Continue to the right of the waterfall, taking the steps. After the first flight of steps, turn right to reach a crossroads.

There are no longer any signposts, just a few blue markings

Leave the Chemin du Blé on your right and turn left onto the Chemin de la Cabrelle. Go up the valley, which is very shady at first, then the path enters the heath until it reaches a crossroads on the heights.

Red and white markings

(3) Continue left on theGR®98, which branches off to the left 50 m further on. 300 m further on, at a T-junction, turn left and then, 10 m further on, right to come out onto a path 200 m further on.
Make a left-right-left zigzag and continue on the path (north-east) which offers beautiful views of the surrounding valleys.
When you reach a track, go up to the left and leave the signposting for a moment (at a cistern on your left) and take the path on the right, which joins the signposting on the ridge 100m higher up at a crossroads.

(4) Leave the track on your left and continue right on the path. 200m further on, the signposting branches off to the left onto a path. At the next fork, take the left. The path goes around a rocky outcrop and then descends to a crossroads (incorrect signposting on the map).

Yellow signpost

Leave theGR® on your right and continue left towards "Col de Bertagne via Pas de Cugens" on a stony path. Take the left at the next fork and you will arrive at the pass with its magnificent views.

(5) Descend to cross the Pas de Cugens (be careful). At the bottom of this tricky passage, leave a yellow trail on your right as you climb and turn left to descend.
The trail then continues almost along the mountainside and comes to a crossroads below the peak. Leave the trail to the right towards the "Col du Saint-Pilon" and continue left towards the "Col de Bertagne".
Leave the two paths to the left towards La Glacière and continue straight ahead on a gently sloping path through a wooded section. At the end of the forest, continue straight ahead at the crossroads towards the Col de Bertagne.

(6) When you reach an oratory marking the pass, turn right onto the path that climbs towards Pic de Bertagne. The path climbs steeply and at times you will need to use your hands. When you reach the ridge, the path descends a little to join the access road to the peak.
Continue right on this road until you reach the gate of the civil aviation site. Turn left at the signpost, then leave it and follow the fence to the right. Continue until you see a metal hut marking the approach to the cliff and Pic de Bertagne. Enjoy the view.

(7) Take the same route back to the road, then take the path on the left that leads to the Col de Bertagne.

(6) At the pass, continue straight ahead towards "Le Col de l'Espigoulier", cross a path and immediately you will come to a small steep passage. Cross it and the path continues flat until you reach a crossroads.
Continue straight ahead towards Col de l'Espigoulier, ignoring all other paths. The trail will remain on the mountainside below the cliffs. Ignore the next two paths that descend and continue to the pass.

(8) Cross the D2 and head towards the car park opposite. At the end of the car park, turn left towards Saint-Pons. The path will climb up towards the ridges and you will come to a cairn. Continue along the path that runs alongside the cliffs (take care) and then move away from them.

(9) At a crossroads, turn right towards Saint-Pons via the Gour de Brest, leaving the path marked "Espace Naturel Sensible" on your left. After a steep descent, turn left at the fork towards Saint-Pons. The path climbs steeply to rejoin the ridges and plunges down the other side to a crossroads. On the left, you will see another sign for "Espace Naturel Sensible"; turn right and continue downhill until you reach a road.

(10) Turn left for a few metres and, before cistern no. 53, leave the road and descend the path on the right. Continue along the main stony path, ignoring the paths on the right and left. Complete the descent of the gully and arrive at the edge of the stream. Continue to the left and cross the footbridge on the right.

(1) Then turn right to return to Parc Saint-Pons and the car park (S/E).

Waypoints

  1. S/E : km 0 - alt. 175 m - Parc Saint-Pons
  2. 1 : km 0.44 - alt. 187 m - Park House
  3. 2 : km 1.6 - alt. 239 m - Turn right at the waterfall
  4. 3 : km 2.94 - alt. 428 m - Turn left onto the GR98
  5. 4 : km 4.14 - alt. 548 m - Turn right onto the path
  6. 5 : km 6.5 - alt. 788 m - Pas de Cugens
  7. 6 : km 7.71 - alt. 873 m - Col de Bertagne
  8. 7 : km 8.57 - alt. 1,021 m - Pic de Bertagne
  9. 8 : km 12.07 - alt. 733 m - Col de l'Espigoulier
  10. 9 : km 13.19 - alt. 719 m - Turn right at the fork
  11. 10 : km 14.56 - alt. 479 m - Turn left onto the road
  12. S/E : km 16.47 - alt. 174 m - Parc Saint-Pons

 Always be cautious and plan ahead when you're outdoors. Visorando and the author of this route cannot be held responsible for any accidents occurring on this route.

The GR® and PR® markings are the intellectual property of the Fédération Française de Randonnée Pédestre.

Reviews and comments

4.7 / 5
Based on 20 reviews

Reliability of the description
4.6 / 5
Ease of following the route
4.7 / 5
Route interest
5 / 5
Randonneur du dimanche
Randonneur du dimanche

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Apr 30, 2022
Reliability of the description : Not used / Not applicable
Ease of following the route : ★★★☆☆ Average
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Magnificent hike!
A few minor issues with the GPS track, which sometimes made me hesitate about where to turn back, but nothing serious.
The last kilometre of the climb to the Pic de Bertagne is tough, but once you reach the summit, the effort is well worth it because the view is simply incredible.
On the way back, the last few kilometres are on rocky ground, so slipping is guaranteed.
The noise of motorbikes roaring along the D2 towards the Col de l'Espigoulier is constant (only at weekends when the weather is nice, I imagine) and can be heard from a long way off. It's a shame. As a result, you don't pay as much attention to the birds singing....
When we arrived, the 16.4 km indicated seemed short... but no, the mileage is correct, it's the 1000D+ that make all the difference
A very beautiful ride

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RickyH5
RickyH5

I just calculated the IPB index for the route and the distance and elevation seem pretty accurate...
16 markers for a little over 1,000 metres of elevation gain, as indicated.
However, the index gives 100 Hkg, which is not insignificant... Perhaps that's why it feels shorter than it is.

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csld
csld

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Feb 28, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

The length of the route is definitely underestimated. Be careful on the descent on the rocky ground on the way back, as already mentioned. A very beautiful hike.

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tboutelier
tboutelier

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Mar 08, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

This hike is truly magnificent! However, I agree that the length of the route is greatly underestimated. I think it's closer to 20 km. It took us 3 hours and 10 km to reach the peak.
As for the Pas de Cugens, we had trouble finding the passage, so we chose the "easy" option described in the guidebook. Once we reached the bottom of the pass, we were able to identify the passage, which is more visible from below. Next time, we'll take the right route!
For the descent from the Pic de Bertagne, we opted to follow the road that leaves the peak and heads towards an air force transmission station, then turns left to return to the Col de Bertagne. This adds 2 km, but it's well paved and easy, so I'm not sure it adds much to the hike!
After the Bertagne pass, you can quickly descend to St Pons by following the Glacière path, which is also very pretty.
In short, a very nice ride, and we didn't see many people!

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clematique
clematique

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 17, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Superb hike, but be warned: it's definitely difficult!

We set off in the middle of August very (too) late (9 a.m.) from Saint Pons Park. I thought we would go faster than the 7 hours and 35 minutes indicated, but it took us 7 hours and we were ill-prepared
We only took 1.8 litres of water per person and didn't really look at the hike before setting off. There are three passes and a peak to cross, so it's not something to be taken lightly!!!
The worst part was probably the last 5 km downhill with gravel and stones...slips guaranteed! Especially when you're tired... My GPS said 19 km, not 16.5...I don't know which route is correct!

As you can imagine, we had a tough time, but it was entirely our fault due to our lack of preparation AND WATER! Make sure you take at least 3 litres per person in August! It's very hot, especially the second part, which is completely unshaded.
But the hike is sublime from start to finish. It's magnificent! We only came across two bikes and two hikers in a whole day, which was quite nice. The scenery is magnificent and the GPS route is very accurate. With Orange, we had no trouble getting reception throughout the hike.

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blancarde
blancarde

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Oct 14, 2019
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

a challenging hike for experienced walkers, very interesting, with the last part of the descent being tough on the ankles. Superb views. Completed in 6 hours.

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cardenas didier
cardenas didier

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Apr 08, 2019
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

A challenging but very enjoyable hike. A visit to the wind tunnel is a must.

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RickyH5
RickyH5

Ahhhhhhhhhh, thank you.
It's beautiful, isn't it?

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J?rôme
J?rôme

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Jan 03, 2019
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

Hike completed on 3 January. Thank you for this route, as it is a very beautiful hike in this part of Sainte-Baume, which I did not know and where I will return, as there are many sites to see.
The route is well marked in the description and on the ground, so you'd have to really try to get lost!
The little detour suggested by RickyH5 to see the wind hole is well worth the effort

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gazok54
gazok54 ★

Thank youallovonaudition@wanadoo.fr
Reading your review, I think that "disappointing" is a harsh rating for the route. Whatever the hike, it's often necessary to scratch your head at one point or another along the way.

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allovonaudition@wanadoo.fr
allovonaudition@wanadoo.fr

Overall rating : 3.7 / 5

Date of your route : Jan 03, 2019
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★☆☆☆ Disappointing
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

A very beautiful hike with varied and magnificent views. It's a shame that the Pas de Cugens isn't marked with a sign. There was a lot of confusion around the mill and the abbey, on a narrow path right up against the wall on the right, which is easier to miss than to see. Even with the sign indicating the name (I forgot what it was, but it was in the opposite direction to Les Blés), you really have to keep to the right. Majestic resurgence at St Pons.
One of the most beautiful hikes we've done in this area.

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gegemft
gegemft

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Nov 18, 2018
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

A superb hike despite the icy east wind blowing that day. The late start at 10 a.m. meant we couldn't make it to Pic de Bertagne. The autumn and winter seasons mean you need to set off earlier if you want to enjoy the magnificent scenery before darkness falls. The Pas de Cugens pass is splendid. Once at the Col de Bertagne, we met some trial runners who were also taking the path leading to the Saint Pons park. Unfortunately, we followed the route marked out for this event and missed the climb back up to the ridges at the Saint Pons fork. We then descended towards the Galère track and the person stationed there to direct the runners deliberately gave us the wrong directions. Much further down, we were able to find a trail marked out for the trial that led back to the Gour valley and finally to the Parc de Saint Pons. We lost about 45 minutes. We arrived at the car at 5.15pm.
We will do this hike again in the spring to climb Pic de Bertagne with a variation via the Col de Fauge.
Thanks to the creator of this superb hike.

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RickyH5
RickyH5
• Edited:

Before point 5, you will notice that there is a trail just before the Défens at point 697 on the map.
Take this path, follow the cairns carefully, and you will pass through what is known as the wind hole, a natural arch at the edge of the ridge. I think it's worth the detour, but it's up to you.
You'll have no problem getting back to the original trail by continuing along this path, which will take you through the Pas de Cugens. If I remember correctly, the yellow markings will give you two options for descending: "difficult" on the left or "easy" on the right.
Further down, after the Pas de Cugens, you'll see the large boulders that fell onto the trail last winter... Luckily, no one was there... Then you have another option for climbing Bertagne by going to the right towards the Col du Fauge. This will save you from having to tackle the north face twice and crossing the Col de Bertagne twice.
In short, there are a variety of interesting options...

There you go, not many people know about this little detour via the wind hole, it's a shame to pass by without knowing it exists... Let me know what you think, provided you find the arch.

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FredRqs
FredRqs

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : May 02, 2018
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

Very nice hike. I deliberately deviated from the planned route during the climb via the Col de Fauge to avoid retracing my steps during the descent from the Pic de Bertagne.
Thanks to the author!

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georges philibert
georges philibert
• Edited:

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Mar 14, 2018
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

This route is magnificent with breathtaking views all along the way. It is challenging with one tricky section (the Pas de Cugens) which can be avoided with children or a group by following the continuous yellow trail.
Other comments: after point 2, the Cabrelle path is now marked in yellow and secured.
The return trip from the Col de Bertagne to the peak of the same name can be avoided by taking a more natural route, climbing up from the foot of Bertagne to the right until you reach the Col de Fauge, then the peak and the pass.
To shorten the long and stony descent, you can descend via the Grande Baume, on the left shortly after the Col de Bertagne crossroads with directional signs about 500 m from the pass.
Many thanks to Slinky for this route

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