The Chalet de la Reine Hortense

Did Napoleon III's mother really walk the beautiful trail that leads from the Pauze-Vieux thermal baths to the chalet that bears her name? It is certainly a beautiful route overlooking Cauterets and facing the Moun Né or Pic de Monné (2,724 m). Although this walk is not particularly difficult, it should be noted that the descent to Cancéru is rather steep. Not recommended for those with weak knees. The return to Cauterets is via the Mamelon Vert.

Details

5801330
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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 7.62 km
  • ◔
    Average duration: 3h 20 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Moderate

  • ⚐
    Back to start: Yes
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 416 m
  • ↘
    Descent: - 420 m

  • ▲
    Highest point: 1,238 m
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 865 m

Description of the walk

(S/E) Starting from Place de la Mairie, head towards the Thermes de César, whose yellow façade can be seen among the row of buildings on the street of the same name. A few steps lead to the esplanade in front of the building. Turn left to go around the thermal establishment, crossing the garden that separates it from the Bains du Rocher.
Walk along the back of the thermal baths until you reach the winding path that climbs the slope to the old Pauze-Vieux thermal baths.

(1) When you come out in front of the old thermal baths, turn left and follow the small road until you reach the Cabane du Bousquet. Here you will find theGR® 10, which leads to the track by following a path up to the left. Continue along the slightly downhill track and cross the valley where the Ruisseau de la Gorce flows.

(2) After crossing the stream, the track continues its ascent through a beautiful beech forest, dotted with a few houses and barns that have been converted into second homes. After four hairpin bends, you reach the final climb that leads to the Chalet de la Reine Hortense. From the terrace of the establishment, where you can recharge your batteries, you can linger over the panoramic view of the entire Cauterets valley and the Cirque du Lys above.

(3) Leave the hotel and continue climbing for about 150 metres. A path branches off to the left, descending quite steeply from the outset. After the first bend, you reach a straight, moderately steep section that follows a beautiful row of strikingly vertical beech trees. When you reach an area of meadows (summer pastures) and barns, you come to the first short, steep hairpin bends. This continues until you reach the foot of the slope.

From this point, the descent becomes quite dizzying and can be somewhat difficult in wet weather or after mountain bikes have passed through, as the route is marked for them. It is therefore a good idea to bring a walking stick for this part of the route. You will reach the first houses of Cancéru when the slope finally levels out.

(4) Turn left when you reach the small village road, then left again at the first crossroads. Follow this road down to the RD920. When you reach the RD920, you will also come to the old railway line that runs parallel to it, which has been converted into a greenway.

(5) Follow the greenway for 350 metres, crossing a first street. At the second intersection, turn right into Impasse Russel and join the RD920, just before the crossroads that leads to the Pont de Fanlou. Turn right to reach it.

(6) Cross the Gave de Cauterets to reach the opposite bank. Immediately after crossing, leave a private road on your left, then follow the small path that starts at the foot of the cliff on the left side of the road. It winds between a few properties before leading to the heart of the Hount-Hérède residential estate. Walk up the road through this housing estate to reach Avenue du Mamelon Vert.

(7) Turn left when you reach the avenue and follow it until you cross the Gave de Cambasque, which flows down from the Cirque du Lys. Ignore the first descent that runs alongside the stream and continue for about 50 metres until you reach a staircase.

(8) Go down these steps on the left to reach Boulevard Latapie Plurin on the right, which leads back to the children's carousel. Turn left when you reach the esplanade and head to the nearby town hall square (S/E).

Waypoints

  1. S/E : km 0 - alt. 926 m - Tourist Office
  2. 1 : km 0.66 - alt. 1,012 m - Ancient thermal baths of Pauze-Vieux
  3. 2 : km 1.49 - alt. 1,045 m - Pont de la Gorce
  4. 3 : km 3.41 - alt. 1,207 m - Chalet de la Reine Hortense
  5. 4 : km 4.75 - alt. 926 m - Cancéru
  6. 5 : km 5.31 - alt. 865 m - Greenway
  7. 6 : km 5.87 - alt. 881 m - Fanlou Bridge - Gave de Cauterets (rivière)
  8. 7 : km 6.26 - alt. 932 m - Avenue du Mamelon Vert
  9. 8 : km 7.27 - alt. 932 m - Stairs to the town centre
  10. S/E : km 7.62 - alt. 925 m - Return to the start

Notes

Taking the time to enjoy a drink on the terrace of the Chalet de la Reine Hortense must be a real pleasure. Covid and the accompanying restrictions prevented us from enjoying the view it offers.

Worth a visit

The return via Avenue du Mamelon Vert is a rather urban route, but it is still preferable to the one that follows the RD 920, the main access road to Cauterets from the valley. To discover the whole town from above, the route could be improved by passing through the Belvédère d'Aoumède (Ferme Igau) and the Ferme Basque, which are located at the foot of the Pic de Peyre Nère. We didn't have enough time to discover this part of the route, which would add a good hour and a few dozen metres of elevation to the route described.

Always be cautious and plan ahead when you're outdoors. Visorando and the author of this route cannot be held responsible for any accidents occurring on this route.

The GR® and PR® markings are the intellectual property of the Fédération Française de Randonnée Pédestre.

Reviews and comments

4.2 / 5
Based on 7 reviews

Reliability of the description
4.4 / 5
Ease of following the route
4.7 / 5
Route interest
3.6 / 5
remycontant
remycontant

Overall rating : 3.3 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 02, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★☆☆☆ Disappointing
Very busy route : No

Overall, a beautiful hike with a very technical descent. It was unfortunate to see the restaurant-bar La Reine d'Hortense in such poor condition, with smelly rubbish bins and an unkempt area. The descent to Cauterets was very technical but enjoyable.

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Visiorandonneur 79
Visiorandonneur 79

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Feb 17, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

A beautiful walk that we extended by climbing up to the Lisey plateau.
Be careful, as the section between the Queen Hortense chalet and the Lisey plateau is very steep.
Magnificent winter landscape on the plateau.

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Chorus Cormeilles
Chorus Cormeilles

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Feb 17, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

We just followed the road, so there were no difficulties. Beautiful views of Cauterets and the surrounding mountains in the sunshine.

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Al49
Al49

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 30, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

A short but interesting circular route to explore the outskirts of Cauterets and the old thermal baths. The descent to Canceru is very steep but can be done without any difficulty.

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Erika
Erika

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 13, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

A nice warm-up with useful poles for the descent.

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Seb47290
Seb47290

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Jan 16, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

Pleasant walk. A few icy patches on the descent requiring a little caution.

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JACKY-MARYLENE
JACKY-MARYLENE

Overall rating : 3.7 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 14, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★☆☆ Average
Very busy route : No

This route was completed in the morning, so there were few people around, and it was mostly in the woods, so there wasn't much light.
The Cancéru descent is steep, but walking sticks can help.
I recommend this route for the various sights: the ancient thermal baths, Queen Hortence's chalet, the views of the town of Cauterets and the Gave river when there is a break in the clouds.

Out of curiosity, the thick wall you come across at the beginning before the old thermal baths contains the hot water pipes for the baths. And near these old thermal baths, there is also an ancient Gallo-Roman bathtub hidden in the vegetation.

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