The Philippe Auguste enclosure and the covered passages of the Sentier

This route on the right bank of the Seine takes us on a journey from medieval times to Art Nouveau. First, we discover the most important remains of Philippe Auguste's city walls and former mansions. We then wind our way through the Sentier district to explore several of its covered passages.

This walk is best done during the week, as the covered passages are closed on certain days.

This walk is part of a multi-day hike: Circuit tournant dans le cœur de Paris

Technical sheet

1639286
Creation:
Last update:
Last review:
  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 7.58 km
  • ◔
    Average duration: 2h 10 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Easy

  • ⚐
    Back to start: No
  • ↗
    Vertical gain: + 8 m
  • ↘
    Vertical drop: - 7 m

  • ▲
    Highest point: 42 m
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 33 m
  • ⚐ Country: France
  • ⚐ District: Paris (75000)
  • ⚑
    Start: N 48.851346° / E 2.362483°
  • ⚑
    End: N 48.870832° / E 2.332229°
  • ❏
    IGN map(s): Ref. 2314OT
  • Hour-by-hour weather

Photos

Description of the walk

Starting point and access: Sully-Morland metro station.
- Metro: line 7. Take exit 3 Boulevard Henri IV.

(S) When you exit the metro station, note the decorative sculptures on the building at the corner of Quai des Célestins and turn right onto Rue du Petit Musc. Atthe first intersection, continue straight ahead. Then turn left onto Rue Charles V, then right onto Rue Beautreillis.

Take thefirst left, Rue Neuve Saint-Pierre. At the end, turn left onto Rue Saint-Paul. After a few metres, turn right onto Rue Eginhard. After a left turn, you will come out onto Rue Charlemagne. Follow it to the right.

At the next intersection, note a fountain on the right and, opposite on the left, the remains of the Montgomery Tower. Then turn left onto Rue des Jardins Saint-Paul and follow a sports field bordered at the end by the wall built by Philippe Auguste, in which the tower once stood.

(1) At the crossroads, follow Rue de l'Ave Maria to the right. At the crossroads (Hôtel de Sens opposite), take thesecond street on the right, Rue du Figuier. At the end, first turn right then left to enter the narrow Rue du Prévôt. Pass the Saint-Paul metro station and cross Rue de Rivoli at the traffic lights. Continue straight ahead on Rue Pavée, cross Rue du Roi de Sicile and walk along a synagogue on your right.

At the next intersection, turn left onto Rue des Rosiers. At No. 10, turn right into Jardin des Rosiers (remains of a tower from the walls built by Philippe Auguste; plaque in honour of Jewish children deported during the occupation). Retrace your steps and continue along Rue des Rosiers, ignoring two streets on the left.

Then turn right onto Rue des Hospitaliers Saint-Gervais (on the right, there are two old fountains with bovine motifs). Go around the market hall by turning right onto Rue du Marché des Blancs Manteaux. At the end, turn left then right to follow Rue des Blancs Manteaux. On the right, walk along a square then a church.

(2) Then turn left onto Rue Aubriot. At the end, turn right onto Rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie. At the traffic lights, turn right onto Rue des Archives. Continue straight ahead, passing two intersections.

When you reach No. 58 (turrets of the Hôtel de Clisson on the right), turn left onto Rue de Braque (note the gateways and mascarons at Nos. 4, 6 and 8bis). At the end, follow Rue du Temple to the right. Take thethird street on the left, Rue Chapon.

Opposite No. 13, go through a gate on the right and cross the Passage des Gravilliers. At the end, turn right and then immediately left onto Rue des Vertus.

(3) At thefirst intersection, turn left onto Rue au Maire. At the next intersection, note the half-timbered house on the right and continue straight ahead. Then cross Rue Beaubourg and follow it to the left (you will see the towers of Notre-Dame in the distance).

Take thesecond right, Rue Chapon again. At the end, follow Rue Saint-Martin to the left, then Rue du Bourg l'Abbé to the right. Cross Boulevard Sébastopol (pedestrian crossing on the left). Turn right immediately to cross Rue de Turbigo, then left to cross Rue de Palestro.

Enter Passage du Bourg l'Abbé. At the end, turn slightly right then left and follow Passage du Grand Cerf all the way to the end. At the end, cross Place Goldoni to the right.

(4) Then turn right onto Rue Greneta. At the next intersection, turn left onto Rue Saint-Denis. Opposite No. 146, turn left and go back along the Impasse du Saint-Denis. Continue along Rue Saint-Denis and, at No. 164, turn right into Passage de la Trinité.

At the end, turn left onto Rue Palestro. At the intersection, turn left onto Rue Réaumur. At the traffic lights, turn right again onto Rue Saint-Denis. Cross Rue du Caire and, at no. 212, turn right into Passage du Ponceau.

At the exit (large square opposite), turn left onto Boulevard de Sébastopol. Cross Rue de Tracy on the left and, at number 135, turn into Passage Lemoine. Cross several small courtyards and exit through a gate (push button on the right). Then turn right one last time onto Rue Saint-Denis (you will see the Porte Saint-Denis at the end of the street).

(5) After a few metres, turn left onto Rue Sainte-Foy. At the next intersection, turn left, still on Rue Sainte-Foy. Walk along a small triangular square on your left, cross Rue d'Alexandrie and enter Passage du Caire (marked Galerie on the map).

Ignore the passages coming from the left and you will come out at Place du Caire (at the exit, turn around to see the building with Egyptian-style motifs). Cross the square diagonally to the right and follow Rue d'Aboukir to the left. Take thefirst right, Rue des Petits Carreaux.

Cross Rue de Cléry, continue along Rue Poissonière and take thefirst left, Rue des Jeûneurs. Cross Rue de Mulhouse on the left and continue downhill. At the crossroads, turn left onto Rue du Sentier. Then take thefirst right, Rue du Croissant.

(6) At the end, turn left onto Rue Montmartre (note the former headquarters of the newspaper L'Aurore at No. 144). Cross Rue Réaumur and immediately turn right onto Rue Paul Lelong. At the next intersection, turn left onto Rue Notre-Dame des Victoires.

At the corner of the basilica of the same name, turn left onto Place des Petits Pères, cross Rue du Mail and turn into Rue Vide Gousset opposite. You will come out onto Place des Victoires (with an equestrian statue of Louis XIV). Go around it on the right and take thefirst street on the right, Rue Feuillade.

At the crossroads, continue straight ahead on Rue des Petits Champs. At the corner of a café-restaurant, turn right into Galerie Vivienne. Go straight ahead and, under a dome, ignore a branch of the gallery coming from the right. Go down a flight of steps and turn left. At the exit, follow Rue Vivienne to the right.

(7) Take thefirst left onto Rue Colbert. At the end, cross Rue de Richelieu and follow it to the left. After crossing Rue de Louvois, turn right into the square of the same name. Go around the fountain decorated with allegories of French rivers and leave the square on the opposite side.

Then turn left, cross Rue Rameau and immediately turn right onto Rue Chérubini. At the end, first turn right then left to enter Passage Saine-Anne. At the end, turn right into Passage Choiseul. At the exit, follow Rue Saint-Augustin to the left and continue straight ahead atthe first intersection.

(8) At the crossroads (Drouant restaurant on the left, fountain on the right), turn right onto Rue de la Michaudière. Pass the theatre of the same name (Art Deco style) and cross Rue du Quatre Septembre and Rue de Hanovre.

At the traffic lights, cross Boulevard des Italiens (pedestrian crossing on the right). Then turn left and follow the boulevard to Place de l'Opéra. Cross the road at the traffic lights and go to the metro station located on the platform in the middle of the square (E).

To return home:
- Metro: lines 3, 7 and 8.
- RER: line A (Auber station, accessible from the metro station).

Waypoints

  1. S : km 0 - alt. 34 m - Sully-Morland metro station - Seine [la]
  2. 1 : km 0.74 - alt. 34 m - Rue de l'Ave Maria
  3. 2 : km 1.74 - alt. 35 m - Rue des Blancs Manteaux x Rue Aubriot
  4. 3 : km 2.83 - alt. 35 m - Rue Au Maire
  5. 4 : km 3.77 - alt. 34 m - Goldoni Square x Greneta Street
  6. 5 : km 4.78 - alt. 35 m - Rue Saint-Denis x Rue Sainte-Foy
  7. 6 : km 5.64 - alt. 35 m - Rue Montmartre
  8. 7 : km 6.54 - alt. 35 m - Rue Vivienne x Rue Colbert
  9. 8 : km 7.11 - alt. 33 m - Rue Saint-Augustin x Rue de la Michaudière
  10. E : km 7.58 - alt. 35 m - Place de l'Opéra

Practical information

Good walking shoes are sufficient for this urban route.

There are a few public toilets and water points along the way (shown on the map). Bars, restaurants and shops are also available along the route.

A detailed map is required (at least the one accompanying this description).

Public garden opening hours:
Jardin des Rosiers:
- Opening hours: 8:00 a.m. on weekdays, 9:00 a.m. on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays.
- Closing time: 5.15pm to 7pm, depending on the season. See detailed opening hours.
Square Louvois:
- Opening times: 8.15am on weekdays, 9am on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays.
- Closing time: 5.15pm to 8.30pm, depending on the season. See detailed opening hours.

Covered passage opening hours:
- All covered passages are open Monday to Friday. Some are open on Saturdays, others are not. All are closed on Sundays. It is therefore best to visit during the week.
- Depending on the passage, opening hours vary from 7:30 a.m. to 8:30 a.m. and closing hours vary from 7:00 p.m. to 8:30 p.m.

Hike completed by the author on 12 December 2018.

In the nearby area

From Sully-Morland station (S) to Rue de l'Ave Maria (1):
- Building with decorated doorways at the corner of Quai des Célestins and Rue du Petit Musc (S).
- Fountain, Rue Charlemagne.
- Montgomery Tower and remains ofthe Philippe Auguste city wall along Rue des Jardins Saint-Paul. This is where the longest surviving section of the city wall, built at the end of the 12th century, can be found. The tower is named after Gabriel de Montgomery, who was imprisoned there after mortally wounding King Henry II during a tournament on 30 June 1559.

From Rue de l'Ave Maria (1) to Rue Aubriot (2):
- Hôtel de Sens (late 15th - early 16th century). Arriving from Rue de l'Ave Maria, note the cannonball embedded in the façade at the top left, which has been there since 28 July 1830 (during the republican uprising known as the Three Glorious Days, which led to the establishment of the July Monarchy).
- Jardin des Rosiers: remains of a tower from the walls built by Philippe Auguste; plaque in tribute to the Jewish children deported during the occupation; beautiful fig tree inside the garden.
- Blanc Manteaux Market Hall.

From Rue Aubriot (2) to Rue au Maire (3):
- Hôtel de Clisson (late 14th century), Rue des Archives.
- Hôtel Jean Bart (16th-17th century), Rue Chapon.
- Passage des Gravilliers.

From Rue au Maire (3) to Place Goldoni (4):
- Half-timbered house at No. 3 Rue Volta.
- Passage du Bourg l'Abbé (1828).
- Passage du Grand Cerf (1825).

From Place Goldoni (4) to Rue Sainte-Foy (5):
- Impasse Saint-Denis.
- Passage de la Trinité (narrow, uncovered lane).
- Passage du Ponceau (1826).
- Lemoine Passage.

From Rue Sainte-Foy (5) to Rue Montmartre (6):
- Passage du Caire.
- House with Egyptian-style decorations, Place du Caire.
- Rue des Petits Carreaux.
- House where Mozart lived and where his mother died in 1778, at No. 8 Rue du Sentier.

From Rue Montmartre (6) to Rue Colbert (7):
- Former headquarters of the newspaper L'Aurore at 144 Rue Montmartre. It was here that, on 12 January 1898, Émile Zola handed Georges Clemenceau, editor-in-chief of the newspaper, the article "J'accuse" defending Captain Dreyfus (a plaque commemorates the event).
- Building decorated with figures in niches at 136 Rue Montmartre.
- Equestrian statue of Louis XIV, Place des Victoires.
- Galerie Vivienne (1823).

From Rue Colbert (7) to Rue de la Michaudière (8):
- Fontaine Louvois in the middle of the square of the same name, designed by Louis Visconti in 1844. Its basin is topped by four allegories of French rivers: the Seine, the Garonne, the Loire and the Saône.
- Passage Sainte-Anne.
- Passage Choiseul (1825-1827). At 190 metres, it is the longest covered passage in Paris.

From Rue de la Michaudière (8) to Place de l'Opéra:
- Restaurant Drouant, founded in 1880. Every year since 1914, the Goncourt and Renaudot juries have met in this restaurant to award their literary prizes.
- Fontaine de l'Hôtel Gaillon.
- Palais Garnier (1875) (E), designed by architect Charles Garnier (1825-1898). For a long time, it was the only building to house an opera house in Paris, before the construction of the Opéra Bastille.

Reviews and comments

4.8 / 5
Based on 26 reviews

Reliability of the description
4.9 / 5
Clarity of route map
4.7 / 5
Route interest
4.7 / 5
User 25540607

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of walk : Oct 26, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Clarity of route map : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Busy trail : Yes

Very beautiful route. Please note, however, that the covered passages are closed on Sundays...

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patrick55
patrick55

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of walk : Aug 31, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Clarity of route map : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Busy trail : Yes

A very beautiful route to do on a Sunday morning. But it's worth noting that many sections are now private, which is a shame. Despite this, it remains an interesting classic

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Luanh95
Luanh95
• Last modified:

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of walk : Jul 27, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Clarity of route map : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Busy trail : No

A very beautiful walk for us, enjoyed in pleasant weather conditions. It was very moving to wander through the narrow streets and passageways of this historic route!

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jogue
jogue

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of walk : Feb 09, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Clarity of route map : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Busy trail : No

I made a few changes.
I started at Bastille and took a detour via Place des Vosges, Rue St Antoine and Rue de Birargue (return), then followed the map to Rue de Beautreillis and Rue Neuve Saint-Pierre.
At the Eglise des Blancs Manteaux, I crossed the square to reach Rue des Francs Bourgeois and walk along the Crédit Municipal, which is closed on Sundays, but I was able to get close to the remains of a tower that was part of the Philippe Auguste wall, with some explanations.
The passages were closed except for the Passage Vivienne, the Passage de Gravilliers and the Passage Lemoine (thanks for the explanations).
I really enjoyed this route.

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hbarillon
hbarillon

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of walk : Dec 29, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Clarity of route map : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Busy trail : No

A beautiful walk through Paris that takes us away from the tourist crowds.

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heleneknet
heleneknet

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of walk : Jun 01, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Clarity of route map : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Busy trail : No

A very pleasant walk, with quiet little streets in the first part, far from the image we have of Paris.
Of course, there is historical interest, as you pass by the Hôtel de Sens, then the Hôtel de Soubise, where the national archives are located and where we saw an interesting exhibition on the last years of Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette, and finally the National Institute of Art History. Lots of charm, especially in the village of Saint Paul, where we strolled through courtyards, passageways and small gardens.
The end is livelier, with the most famous passages in Paris.
Thank you for this wonderful itinerary!

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Millepertuis
Millepertuis

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of walk : Dec 17, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Clarity of route map : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Busy trail : No

A lovely walk on a cold winter morning. Of note is the building at 17 Rue Beautreillis, where Jim Morrison died, and his portrait painted on the roller shutter of the shop on the ground floor. The route is dotted with discoveries and beautiful traces of French history.

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virgule
virgule

To be continued.

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Bernard Saurat
Bernard Saurat

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of walk : Dec 18, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Clarity of route map : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Busy trail : No

A very informative tour of old Paris. Lots of interesting facts about the people who left their mark on history and architecture. A fascinating day.

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Turnoff
Turnoff

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of walk : Sep 18, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Clarity of route map : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Busy trail : Yes


Great tour with lots to discover!
We were delighted, but avoid Sundays as "THE PASSAGES ARE CLOSED". We hadn't read the comments
Also avoid Heritage Day...
But above all, don't miss this tour!
Many thanks to the author.
We're doing the "Heart of Paris" tour, divided into four sections and not always in the same direction. Using public transport is a big plus, at least when the RER is running

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Wanderung89
Wanderung89

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of walk : Aug 05, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Clarity of route map : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Busy trail : Yes

This tour allows you to discover certain areas of Paris that are not included in traditional itineraries.
We didn't have time to do the whole tour, but we'll continue it next time.

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charlieduf
charlieduf

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of walk : Aug 06, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Clarity of route map : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Busy trail : Yes

Very busy. Normal for a Sunday in August, mostly tourists. With a few exceptions, the passageways were closed. Despite this, it was an excellent walk around Paris!

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Premgun
Premgun

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of walk : Jan 11, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Clarity of route map : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Busy trail : No

An excellent discovery of a little-known part of Paris. Very nostalgic. To be repeated in the summer.

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Laurence Durand
Laurence Durand

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of walk : Oct 24, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Clarity of route map : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Busy trail : Yes

The areas covered by this walk are not very busy.
Not recommended on Sundays, as almost all of the paths are closed.

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anfranou20
anfranou20
• Last modified:

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of walk : Feb 22, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Clarity of route map : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Busy trail : No

This tour allowed me to discover places I hadn't noticed on previous visits. It's a great way to get off the beaten track.
Some historical explanations would have been welcome.

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