Cave and chapel in Saint-Michel-l'Observatoire

A hike between wild hills and a village full of character. Wash houses and fountains. A Neolithic rock shelter.

Details

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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 12.98 km
  • ◔
    Average duration: 4h 40 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Moderate

  • ⚐
    Back to start: Yes
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 336 m
  • ↘
    Descent: - 331 m

  • ▲
    Highest point: 765 m
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 497 m

Photos

Description of the walk

At Saint Michel l'Observatoire: start from the car park signposted "parking de l'Observatoire".

(S/E) Cross Place du Serre, turn left and take the D5 on the right to the church.

(1) Walk past it and take an uphill lane on the right. Continue to the chapel, go around it on the left and followthe astronomical path on the right to the orientation table.

(2) Continue along a good path, heading north-west. After a while, it joins another path, which you take to the left until you reach the D5 crossroads.

(3) Leave the D5 and turn right onto a good path marked in yellow towards Les Eyssarts. Follow it to the Les Eyssarts crossroads (altitude 631).

(4) At the crossroads, turn left for about 100 m to reach the Plaines crossroads, where you should follow the yellow-markedPR®® on the right towards Le Revest des Brousses.
You will come to a large cultivated field, which you follow on the right. Climb north-east then north on the marked path, ignoring the various crossroads, then look for a small path on the left in the undergrowth, parallel to the uphill track.

(5) Leave the marked path and head north on this trail. It arrives at the edge of a cliff: danger, do not approach, but there is a beautiful panoramic view of Le Revest des Brousses. Continue along the trail, which allows you to cross the rocky ridge. Follow it southwards (approx. 50 m) to reach a rock shelter. Retrace your steps, climb back up the rocky outcrop and continue northwards along the path, which will take you back to the marked path you left earlier. Pass the highest point (765 m) and continue to the junction where you leave the marked path.

(6) Turn right onto an unmarked forest path that descends into the forest, heading south-east. At the fork in a clearing, take the left path heading due east. The vegetation becomes sparse and you will arrive at a beautiful spring.

(7) At the spring, continue along the path heading south-east then north-east to a small valley. Follow the path opposite, which heads due south. Ignore a path coming from the right and continue eastwards to a fork.

(8) Take a path heading south-east downhill, ignoring two other paths coming from the right and two from the left. You will arrive at an open area where there is a blue van.

(9) At the blue van, go straight downhill until you reach a marked path (elevation 496) that climbs to the right until it reaches a flat dirt path. Follow the signs for "Saint-Michel-l'Observatoire" and you will reach a paved road at a hairpin bend.

(10) Follow it to the right. At the bottom of the descent, at the crossroads, ignore the road leading to the entrance to the Haute Provence Observatory and turn left towards Saint-Michel-l'Observatoire via the D305. (On the right, towards the Observatory, a sign indicates the way to the chapel for those who have not notified anyone of their visit). For the visit, see the practical information.

(11) Follow the signs to the Lavoir de la Marceline, which was reserved for washing the clothes of plague victims.

(12) Continue downhill to reach the wash house reserved for the laundry of healthy people.

(13) Follow Rue du Barri, pass the post office and return to the car park (S/E).

Waypoints

  1. S/E : km 0 - alt. 560 m - Observatory car park
  2. 1 : km 0.26 - alt. 571 m - Church
  3. 2 : km 0.5 - alt. 614 m - Orientation table
  4. 3 : km 1.34 - alt. 599 m - Crossroads with the D5
  5. 4 : km 2.44 - alt. 631 m - Carrefour des Eyssarts
  6. 5 : km 5.51 - alt. 760 m - Path parallel to the PR
  7. 6 : km 5.85 - alt. 765 m - Unmarked forest path
  8. 7 : km 6.62 - alt. 715 m - Source
  9. 8 : km 7.19 - alt. 718 m - Fork in the road
  10. 9 : km 8.68 - alt. 608 m - Blue van
  11. 10 : km 10.83 - alt. 585 m - Junction with tarmac road
  12. 11 : km 11.48 - alt. 548 m - Junction with Route de l'Observatoire
  13. 12 : km 12 - alt. 525 m - Marceline wash house
  14. 13 : km 12.71 - alt. 565 m - Wash house for the well-to-do
  15. S/E : km 12.98 - alt. 560 m - Observatory car park

Notes

Bring water. There is a spring on the path, but it is unregulated.
A hat and good shoes are recommended, and a GPS will be useful for finding the path to the cave.
The rock shelter can provide shelter from the rain.

To visit the Chapelle Saint-Jean des Fuzils, you must first write to "la dame de la Chapelle" (the lady of the chapel) at Chapelle Saint-Jean des Fuzils - 04870 Saint Michel l'Observatoire, leaving your contact details and telephone number and indicating the approximate date and time of your planned visit. She can meet you at the chapel to let you onto her property. After the visit, a good path takes you back to point (11), avoiding the tarmac road. Highly recommended, the chapel is magnificent. Do not attempt to cross without permission, as this discredits all hikers.

Access to both chapels is free.

Worth a visit

Between (9) and (10), at elevation 496, a good path on the left (go up to the blue markings) allows you to visit the Chapel of Châteauneuf, then rejoin the route at elevation 496. A very beautiful place. Please respect the nuns' contemplation.

Visit the Haute Provence Observatory by appointment. Observe the sky.
Visit the Salagon Museum in Mane 04 (garden and chapel).
Sights to see: Forcalquier, its co-cathedral, the carillon à poings (hand-played carillon), the old town; Sauvan Castle, the mining museum in Saint Maime, the Reculon ford on the Via Domitia.

On the edge of the Via Domitia (the ancient road linking Italy and Spain), on theGR®® 653d Way of St James, there are many chapels and Roman bridges to see. The Haute Provence Observatory, which saw the discovery of the first exoplanet, is a must-see. There are good restaurants, some of which have Michelin stars, numerous places to stay, and many historical sites, including the birthplace of the four daughters of the Count of Provence, who all became queens, the region's mining history, and the traditions of the herbalists of Lure (see "La folie Forcalquier" by Pierre Magnan). There are also numerous marked hiking trails.

Always be cautious and plan ahead when you're outdoors. Visorando and the author of this route cannot be held responsible for any accidents occurring on this route.

The GR® and PR® markings are the intellectual property of the Fédération Française de Randonnée Pédestre.

Reviews and comments

3.9 / 5
Based on 18 reviews

Reliability of the description
3.8 / 5
Ease of following the route
3.8 / 5
Route interest
4.1 / 5
passion rando
passion rando

Overall rating : 3.3 / 5

Date of your route : Mar 04, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★☆☆ Average
Ease of following the route : ★★★☆☆ Average
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

It should be noted that when you arrive at the chapel, you must go around it on the left to take the footpath.
I followed the route to point (4).
I couldn't find "the small marked path" after the lavender field. There was only one marked trail, which I didn't take because it required ignoring the various junctions.
I continued on the original track. When I thought I had missed everything, I was too far away to turn back.
I walked 21 km without seeing any of the highlights of the route.

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Chriselise
Chriselise

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Feb 06, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★☆☆ Average
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

The cave was difficult to find. The GPS and the app on my phone were essential for following the route.
Encountered a shepherd, sheep and a Patou dog that attacked me, but fortunately didn't hurt me...

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bishop
bishop

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Nov 11, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

Hike completed on the weekend of 11 November, in beautiful weather.
We are not experienced hikers, and it took us 3 hours and 5 minutes instead of the 4 hours and 40 minutes advertised. Be sure to follow the Visorando trail, as there are few signs.
No difficulty, the walk is on paths, but make sure you have good footwear, especially for the descent, as the path is wide but stony.
A pleasant walk, no "breathtaking" landscapes but some nice views! Be careful in summer as there may not be much shade.

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randos67
randos67

Overall rating : 3.7 / 5

Date of your route : Mar 25, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★☆☆ Average
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

Completed on Sunday, 24 March 2024. To follow this route, it is essential to use the map on Visorando. There are few markings and many intersections. Otherwise, it is a beautiful route with lovely views, but not to be attempted in hot weather.

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pafra
pafra

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : May 27, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Nothing to report

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mo.renault
mo.renault

Overall rating : 3.3 / 5

Date of your route : Mar 06, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★☆☆ Average
Ease of following the route : ★★★☆☆ Average
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

Beautiful view when you reach the ridge (ideal picnic spot). A map of the route is essential, as the trail markings are poor.
Be careful on the descent when you reach the blue wreck; turn right (with your back to the van).

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fanee
fanee

Overall rating : 3.3 / 5

Date of your route : Oct 02, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★☆☆ Average
Ease of following the route : ★★★☆☆ Average
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

Hike done in reverse direction, signs and passages no longer visible, or barely visible, at points 6, 7, 8
The causes: deforestation and housing construction!
Not very respectful.
Beautiful views under a blue sky!

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barriolo
barriolo

Overall rating : 3.3 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 29, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★☆☆☆☆ Very disappointing
Very busy route : No

This hike is not particularly interesting: it is long and monotonous, with only one type of landscape and very few viewpoints. Ninety per cent of the route is on tracks rather than paths and in full sun. We did it at the end of the summer and it was torture, especially the end on the tarmac. There is a viewpoint when you leave the path, a spring and an old shelter... but that's not much for a 4-hour walk. There are many other places to hike in the beautiful countryside around Lure in particular. I would not recommend it unless you want to walk for exercise. Perhaps on a nice sunny winter's day, as it is not difficult, has few slopes and is well signposted.

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Muriel_1202
Muriel_1202

Overall rating : 3.3 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 20, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★☆☆☆ Disappointing
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

To start, go to the village church and follow the trail signs. Parking is limited to 15 minutes, so park wherever you can outside the hamlet. The hike is very nice, but be careful, as the heat and elevation gain make it a bit challenging (for us).
Otherwise, we missed the cave... but we saw the spring. On the other hand, I found empty beer bottles in the blazing sun. How clever of the pizutu ?
There is a beautiful variety of rocks and lovely views of the mountains.
There is a serious lack of drinking water in the village for hikers. If there is any, we didn't see anyone.
I really liked the two wash houses.

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J.Oll
J.Oll

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Jun 24, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A very beautiful hike with varied landscapes, and very pleasant in hot weather as there is a lot of undergrowth.
My only regret: ending up on the road to reach St Michel... Perhaps do this route in reverse?
Pay close attention to the map as there are many crossroads and the "blue car" landmarks are not immediately visible...
Didn't see a soul!
Points of interest: geology, vegetation, history

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J.Oll
J.Oll

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Jun 24, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A very beautiful hike with varied landscapes, and very pleasant in hot weather as there is a lot of undergrowth.
My only regret: ending up on the road to reach St Michel... Perhaps do this route in reverse?
Pay close attention to the map as there are many crossroads and the "blue car" landmarks are not immediately visible...

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Crapet
Crapet

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : May 20, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Thank you for this beautiful hike, which allowed us to discover magnificent landscapes, a cave still used occasionally (by hunters?) and a superb chapel.

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rando94
rando94

Overall rating : 3.7 / 5

Date of your route : Feb 24, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★☆☆ Average
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★☆☆ Average
Very busy route : No

This is the ideal route for walking without encountering anyone else at this time of year. A GPS and/or app is essential to follow the description and avoid taking a turn too early or too late (it's a shame the route isn't signposted).
The highlight is undoubtedly the prehistoric shelter (marked on the app, which is essential)... but it's a shame that it's been squatted in, with petrol cans and food scraps left behind.

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chrus84005
chrus84005

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Jun 28, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

A most interesting hike, especially when done in early summer. The fields and open spaces are full of flowers. A wide variety of butterflies.

The paths are well marked.

A hike not to be missed.

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la barrutlaire
la barrutlaire

Hi, you probably realised that you had to call the chapel caretaker to avoid the tar, right? As for the superb view from the ridge, you reach it just before descending to see the rock shelter... but you need a bit of orientation for that, as the path isn't marked!

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