To reach the starting point, walk past the Fusha e Gjesë hotel at the end of the tarmac road in the Valbone valley, continue along the gravel track for 2.8 km and park in a meadow between Llomi and Rragam.
(S/E) The start of the path is marked by a signpost. It is signposted with small red-and-white markings. It sets off to the right of the signpost, up the slope, and winds its way through fields and past a few scattered houses. The slope is gentle as far as Café Emanueli.
(1) Immediately after this café, turn right at a right angle along the fence at the steepest part of the slope. Blue and red arrows indicate the direction. From here, follow the large white-red-white markers all the way to Theth. The climb is steep.
(2) Cross the bed of a torrent, the Përroo Valit.
(3) Pass under a majestic beech tree and, a few dozen metres further on, above Café Simoni. Continue west-north-west until you reach a fork in the path.
(4) A signpost indicates Theth (Thethi) to the left. From here on, the trees are very low and, after crossing the small valley, the path zigzags up a steep slope before turning south.
(5) The path runs horizontally beneath a cliff face and leads easily to the Valbone Pass, ‘Qafa Valbonës’.
(6) From the pass, enjoy the view over the Valbone and Theth valleys, as well as all the surrounding peaks.
Leave the path leading to two peaks on your left – we’ll see them on the way back. The descent to the right heads west; there is no other track. The path passes through a magnificent beech forest and reaches the Krojnat bar, a hut offering drinks and camping facilities.
(7) Three hundred metres further down, the river also provides a source of drinking water. From this point, the path winds through woods and meadows.
If you do not wish to visit Theth, you can turn back and return to Valbone, as the landscape remains largely the same and the temperature rises as you descend, which can make the return journey arduous in summer.
The route heads south-west, then, after a junction, north-west until you approach Theth.
(8) Water tower. This marks the start of the village of Theth, which is quite sprawling. Take the track that descends steeply and you’ll arrive near a guesthouse, Bujtina Lek Shkafja.
(9) From here, follow the 4x4 track to the right. After several bends, you’ll reach a torrent.
(10) After the bridge over the stream, follow the widest track to reach the centre of Theth, where the outbound trail ends.
(11) If you wish to spend some time in Theth, see tips and information under ‘During the hike or nearby’. The campsite is less than 1 km further south on Rruga Fushë. The return journey follows the same route.
(6) Once back at the Valbone Pass, head right towards two small peaks to the south-west. The path leading to them is very steep, so caution is advised.
(12) Two small peaks to the south-west of the pass offer stunning views.
(3) Return to the pass.
(6) Turn right onto the return path to the car park (S/E)
I hope you enjoyed the beech forest and the peaks to the right of the pass! There’s another one to the left, but it takes longer to climb.
) and they passed each other around midday at the pass, not at 2 pm – that’s why I think you didn’t see them.
you can pop over to Montenegro and Kosovo – it’s very unspoilt.
To add some tourist information, I saw lots of tourists doing the following circular route: Shkodër – bus – Theth – hike – Valbona – bus – Fierze – ferry across Lake Koman – Koman – bus – Shkodër. And the reverse route is also possible.