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- From Saint-Denis: head towards Saint-Paul via the N1 and exit at the N1a junction towards Saint-Paul Centre. Then take the first road on the left. At each junction, continue straight ahead to stay on the N1a. Follow it until you see the sign for the Grotte des Premiers Français on the left.
- From Saint-Pierre: head towards Saint-Paul via the N1 and exit at the N1a junction towards Saint-Paul Centre. Then turn left, go under the main road, then take the first left again. At each junction, continue straight ahead to stay on the N1a. Follow it until you see the sign for the Grotte des Premiers Français on the left.
(S/E) Before starting the hike, you can pop over to the Grotte des Premiers Français. You can see it by taking the route that starts to the right of the car park. Cross the road in front of the car park and enter the beautiful maritime cemetery via a wide avenue. It’s well worth a short detour.
(1) Reach the end of the path and follow the beach to the left. The sand is black and can cause burns in direct sunlight if you’re not properly protected. Looking back, you can enjoy lovely views of Saint-Paul Bay. It’s one of Réunion’s few bays, but it’s very dangerous to swim there! At the end of the beach, join the road. This section is very noisy, and you’ll need to follow this lovely road to Boucan Canot, which is 4 km further on.
You’ll then pass near the Cap la Marianne tunnel before arriving near a small black-sand beach. A path then leads down to the right towards it; otherwise, follow the road.
You will then arrive at Cap la Houssaye. There are many fishermen in this area. It offers a beautiful view of Savane Saint-Paul and the bay of the same name. Enjoy the view, then follow the road for a few metres. By taking the first path on the right, you can descend to the foot of the cape.
(2) Otherwise, continue straight on and then keep to the right on an overgrown path leading towards the Rocher de Chien. The path passes close to the low walls of the old road. Without you realising it, it passes over the head of the dog.
(3) At the road, follow it for a few metres to the right and take the first path on the right to see the blowhole. It isn’t visible at first glance as it isn’t very imposing. But it’s always nice to see one. From here, the dog-like shape of the eponymous rock becomes clearer.
Return to the road via the same route and turn right. The road runs along the cliff edge once more, skirting a white sandy beach. Pass Cap Champagne and its distinctive rock formation to the right of the road. Look out for the first signpost, then the second.
(4) At the second sign, 150 metres before a junction, turn right onto the path leading down to the beach, then follow it to the left. As with almost all beaches on Réunion, be aware of the presence of patates à durand. At the end of the beach, you must turn left to go round a hotel.
(5) Head back down to the beautiful Cap Homard beach. Several restaurants and bars offer refreshments.
(6) On the other side of this white sandy beach, go round the Cap Homard cliff on the left before taking a slippery path that climbs to the top of the cliff. The view of the surrounding area is stunning. The paths are in good condition. Keep right at every junction until you have descended the Cap Homard cliff and reached another beach. This is Plage des Aigrettes. Right at the far end of this beach lies the headland of the same name. It is the westernmost point of the island. Just before the end of the beach, don’t miss the staircase on the left which you must take.
(7) At the road, turn right and follow it to the first path leading to the coast.
(8) Turn right. A long stretch of beach begins here. This is Plage des Aigrettes. Just to the right is the headland of the same name.
(9) Continue along this beach to the port of Saint-Gilles, where it is known as Plage des Roches Noires.
(10) At the harbour, turn sharp left down a narrow lane. Keep right at the next two junctions, then cross the Ravine Saint-Gilles via a footbridge. You can visit the Saint-Gilles Aquarium, which is located here. There are several restaurants and bars along this stretch. At the aquarium, turn right, then left onto the first footbridge, which leads to more restaurants.
(11) Walk along the harbour, passing a car park, then reach another beach. From there, it’s nothing but sand for 6 kilometres all the way to Trou d’Eau. To make the walk easier, it’s best to walk under the casuarina trees. It will take at least an hour to get there. But some parts of this beach are lovely. You can sometimes get refreshments at the few bars under the casuarina trees.
(12) Pass close to the Hermitage. Stay on the beach at all times. Reach La Saline.
(13) Continue south-east towards Trou d’Eau. There are some lovely views to the south at the end of the beach. Once you reach the end, head to the car park on the left (S/E).
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