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Access: take the N1 and exit at the Cap Sacré Coeur junction. Take the first exit coming from Saint-Paul and the third coming from Saint-Denis. Continue straight ahead at the next roundabout, then take the first right at the following one towards Dos d’Ane via the D1. Then take the first exit at each roundabout until you reach Dos d’Ane. Once in the village, pass the small convenience store on the right-hand side of the road. At the junction by the mini-market, continue straight on towards Grand Coin and La Roche Écrite. Drive to the “Chemin Roche Écrite” bus stop. Then turn right at the bus stop and park at the start of the path leading up to La Roche Verre Bouteille (Note: sign on the ground).
(S/E) Follow the path towards La Roche Écrite. The path is quite overgrown with weeds and runs alongside a fence. However, it climbs steeply. Some sections are slippery and occasionally winding. Take care in certain places where the path has collapsed. A wooden staircase marks the imminent arrival at the pass. This is followed by a narrow passage over a wooden structure where the barrier protecting against the drop has collapsed. A 15-minute climb is enough to reach the pass. Then turn right to visit the Roche Verre Bouteille.
(1) The latter, which is bare and has a strikingly pointed shape, can be seen from a great distance. Further on lies the famous Dos d’Âne, which gave its name to the village. Return then to the previous junction and turn right towards the Roche Écrite. The section that follows runs along a narrow ridge with spectacular views of Dos d’Âne, Le Port, Saint-Paul and the Cirque de Mafate. It is one of the island’s most remarkable vantage points. The slope is, however, quite steep and some sections are not suitable for those prone to vertigo. Make the most of this beautiful stretch.
(2) This section ends at Piton Fougères, where the path begins to descend slightly. The area, overgrown with ferns, has surely given the piton its name. After this gentle descent, tackle a climb that is less steep than the previous one. The path is slightly further from the cliff face after the piton. (2) Follow the signs pointing towards La Roche Ecrite. The path can be slippery in places.
(3) Continue straight on at the next junction. The path runs along the edge of the rampart but is rarely vertiginous on this section, which is very popular with hikers. However, some sections of the slope will be quite steep, and most of the route consists of alternating ascents and descents. The path then gradually leaves the rampart before entering a forest of tamarinds, fanjans and other plant species, not to mention, unfortunately, invasive plants. Some trees, with imposing branches and trunks, force you to duck.
(4) Allow an hour from this junction to reach the next one. Continue to the right. You are now nearly halfway through the route. The section that follows is generally flatter and passes close to beautiful tamarind groves. The path then follows a small ravine. At the next fork, turn right towards the viewpoint. Cross a stream.
(5) Reach the viewpoint after a short but steep climb. Enjoy the panoramic views over the Cirque de Mafate. Then return to the previous junction and turn right. Pass in front of the Caverne Basse and head to the Lodge de la Roche Écrite, where you can top up your water supplies and spend the night.
(6) Turn right towards La Roche Écrite at the junction by the lodge. You’ll soon leave the forest of tall tamarind trees behind and enter the Plaine des Chicots, a landscape of shrubs. Some bare stretches are on old lava flows. If you’re unsure which way to go, some white markings will help you find your way. In the distance, the summit of La Roche Écrite gradually looms larger.
(7) Ignore the first path on the right leading to Caverne Dufour. Some sections are marshy from here onwards.
(8) Then ignore the next fork to the right towards Mare aux Cerfs and head left. You’ll soon reach a fork; take the right-hand path towards Roche Écrite.
(9) Further on, continue to the right and ignore the path leading left towards Caverne Soldats.
(10) You’ll reach a final junction; turn right towards Roche Écrite.
(11) You’ll reach the summit after at least a 4-hour walk from Dos d’Ane. Enjoy the stunning views of the Salazie and Mafate cirques, as well as the island’s highest peaks. Don’t hesitate to take a souvenir photo. Then head back to the previous junction.
(10) Continue straight on along the Caverne Soldats path.
(12) You’ll reach this path after a few minutes. It’s wide but damp and overlooks the Rivière des Pluies valley. However, the path joining the Roche Écrite trail is very poorly marked. A GPS is strongly recommended for this section. Some parts are poorly marked and it’s easy to miss a turn. Ignore a faint path branching off to the right and turn left.
(9) Reach the junction with the Roche Écrite path and turn right.
(8) Turn left towards the Mare aux Cerfs on a flat but occasionally marshy path.
(13) You’ll soon reach the pond; turn left towards the viewpoint over Mafate, specifically the Crête de la Marianne and the Bras Sainte-Suzanne valley. Enjoy the view and return to the pond.
(13) Turn left towards the Roche Écrite lodge. Before reaching the Roche Écrite trail, pass in front of the Caverne Dufour.
(7) Turn left and return to the starting point via the reverse route (S/E).
Tourist office
Moderate 
Visorando Member
Difficult 
Easy 
